The 3.2L B6324S: The good, the bad, and the ugly - Page 2
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    1. #36
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      To update this thread, here is some information on the 3.2 XC90.

      The importance of using the right type of transmission fluid for your VIN and year. You might get a shudder with the wrong fluid: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...Tranny-Shudder

      New iPd polyurethane lower torque rod feedback and info: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...=1#post7441265
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

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    3. #37
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      Thank you Chitown for the fantastic post. As we cross through the 90s onto 100k mile territory with our XC90, this info allows me to plan ahead.
      2001 Audi S4 Avant
      2004 Audi S4
      2011 Volvo XC90 R-Design
      2013 VW GLI
      2020 C63S

    4. #38
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      I own a xc60 with the 3.2 this is incredibly useful information thanks!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    6. #39
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      Fantastic write-up. I drive a 2004 V70 2.5T AWD and am considering getting a 2011 XC70 with the B6324S5 engine and the 150k maintenance due. To be honest, the engineering on this engine makes something as simple as serpentine belt/water pump/ac compressor/tensioner Idler/ steering pump into a nightmare. I was able to do serpentine belt, timing belt, all of the pulleys and the water pump done on my 2.5T B5204T5 engine in under 90 minutes and Im a slow shade tree mechanic. The same job on the B6324S5 looks like it would take me many hours. Steering pump on the 2.5T is a 15 minute job including clean-up. On the 3.2 it looks like a mess. Having seen these Im thinking maybe just stick with the 2.5T for me, hell Ive got 250k miles on mine maybe Ill find one thats just broken in at 140k miles...

    7. #40
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      From experience of the two:
      2.5t timing belt, serpentine, tensioner, water pump - 1st time = 2-3 hrs; 2nd time = 1.5 hrs (probably .25 used in double/triple checking timing marks)
      3.2 serpentine belt, tensioner, idler, water pump - 1st time = 2-3 hrs; 2nd time = 1.25 hr

      It's not a nightmare, just understanding how to do it the first time. Then again, the PCV is easy peasy and does not need camshaft seals. Whatever engine you choose, they are both good in their own right.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    8. #41
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      I did motor mounts and the serp belt, water pump, etc. on the 3.2L last fall. It does look like a bear of a job, but I found it to be easy and enjoyable.

      Curiously, the 3.2L swipes a number of engineering solutions from 1920's-1930's aviation.

      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    9. #42
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      Curiously, the 3.2L swipes a number of engineering solutions from 1920's-1930's aviation.

      -Ryan
      More color on this? It piques my interest. Aviation engineering has standards that build to operational times measured in tens of thousands of hours and millions of miles.
      2009 XC90 3.2 AWD l Oyster Grey / Bi-Xenon / Dynaudio / BLIS / VNS / RSE / THULE Aeroblade

    10. #43
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      Quote Originally Posted by ShadowDancer View Post
      More color on this? It piques my interest. Aviation engineering has standards that build to operational times measured in tens of thousands of hours and millions of miles.
      It's more the conceptual solutions than the nitty-gritty.

      Rear accessory drives are common on piston engines (I guess you kinda have to). Radials use a gear train to power the accessory pads, where Volvo uses a gear train and a belt. One specific example is the rubber coupler for the alternator. I was amazed to see the same set up driving magnetos on a Ranger L-440. Rubber coupler driving a rearward facing mag.

      Even as far back as the Liberty-12 engine, designed for American entry into the first World War, you see the crankshaft driving a rear gear "train" which drives a water and oil pump. The L-12 uses bevel gears and shafts to drive the cams from the top of the gear "train". Volvo takes a chain off the rear accessory drive to run the cams.

      For me, the takeaway is that what a lot of folks see as "new and crazy" is conceptually 75-100 years old. In a way, it begs the question of why haven't we been doing this on transverse mounted engines for the last 30 years? It solves so many problems.

      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    11. #44
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      From experience of the two:
      2.5t timing belt, serpentine, tensioner, water pump - 1st time = 2-3 hrs; 2nd time = 1.5 hrs (probably .25 used in double/triple checking timing marks)
      3.2 serpentine belt, tensioner, idler, water pump - 1st time = 2-3 hrs; 2nd time = 1.25 hr

      It's not a nightmare, just understanding how to do it the first time. Then again, the PCV is easy peasy and does not need camshaft seals. Whatever engine you choose, they are both good in their own right.
      In terms of fasteners:

      A/C Compressor: 3 screws.
      A/C Bracket: 3 screws.
      PS Pump: 6 screws.

      They're all M6 or M8 fasteners IIRC.

      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    12. #45
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      Here is a very good thread about removing the timing chain covers & parts list for the 3.2.

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...=1#post7497455
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    13. #46
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      Here is a very good thread about removing the timing chain covers & parts list for the 3.2.

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...=1#post7497455


      There's a good video series on Youtube.
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    14. #47
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      Just to add to this thread, here's my lengty over-worded serp-belt vid:





      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    15. #48
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      There's a good video series on Youtube.
      The timing chain cover and valve cover removal video links are in the timing chain cover thread I linked here.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    16. #49
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      Just to add to this thread, here's my lengty over-worded serp-belt vid:





      -Ryan
      NOTE The A/C bracket on earlier B6324S engines needed special tools (volvo tool 9997262) to realign if removed. This was changed for the S5 version, and no special tools are needed. Video does NOT show alignment tool use so I assume its a B6324S5 engine manufactured after May 2010. Use of the alignment tool is nuanced as it requires a specific sequence of loosening then tightening both brackets for the compressor in order to 1. position the alignment tool then 2. tighten the compressor brackets to specified torque.

    17. #50
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      Im wondering if the 'burning oil' issue on these engines is associated with catalytic converter failure. That would seem to be a very big deal given these have 4 cats 2 of which are integrated into the exhaust manifold. Looks like non-volvo parts for these would be at least $1400, and a whopping $4,500 in parts if using genuine volvo parts (https://www.volvopartscounter.com/se..._str=catalytic) not including labor. Brutal considering the fact once you replace the new cats will be quickly contaminated due to continued oil burning...
      Last edited by donalan; 01-26-2020 at 10:46 AM.

    18. #51
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      Quote Originally Posted by donalan View Post
      Im wondering if the 'burning oil' issue on these engines is associated with catalytic converter failure. That would seem to be a very big deal given these have 4 cats 2 of which are integrated into the exhaust manifold. Looks like non-volvo parts for these would be at least $1400, and a whopping $4,500 in parts if using genuine volvo parts (https://www.volvopartscounter.com/se..._str=catalytic) not including labor. Brutal considering the fact once you replace the new cats will be quickly contaminated due to continued oil burning...
      Catalytic converter failure or inefficiency is a general topic, not necessarily 3.2 specific. Of course, any catalytic that gets caked with oil will run inefficiently. Sometimes the inefficient catalyst is due to a poorly running engine and not necessarily that the cat is bad. 2.5t owners can see a catalyst inefficient code when the coils/plugs and TCV need replacing and it will go away when those parts are changed. I just replaced 2 gaskets for less than $20 on a 3.5L Honda engine for a leaky (oil) spool valve (aka controlling VTEC & VCM) which threw a catalyst inefficient code because VTEC was off. Shop wanted $800 for a new spool valve and $1100 for a catalytic converter. It just passed smog and the $2k shop fix was solved in $20 worth of parts.

      Good maintenance is outlined here and should keep the engine running efficiently.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    19. #52
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      Catalytic converter failure or inefficiency is a general topic, not necessarily 3.2 specific. Of course, any catalytic that gets caked with oil will run inefficiently. Sometimes the inefficient catalyst is due to a poorly running engine and not necessarily that the cat is bad. 2.5t owners can see a catalyst inefficient code when the coils/plugs and TCV need replacing and it will go away when those parts are changed. I just replaced 2 gaskets for less than $20 on a 3.5L Honda engine for a leaky (oil) spool valve (aka controlling VTEC & VCM) which threw a catalyst inefficient code because VTEC was off. Shop wanted $800 for a new spool valve and $1100 for a catalytic converter. It just passed smog and the $2k shop fix was solved in $20 worth of parts.

      Good maintenance is outlined here and should keep the engine running efficiently.
      Thanks for the tip on the 2.5t - I have a PO420 Ive been chasing for some time - never thought of the TCV. Ive checked most everything else.

    20. #53
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      Thanks ggleavitt for the tip on the upper torque rod. Now I know when the car is cold where that grinding rocks noise comes from. I checked and the link is loose so it's time to look for that part. Anyone got a P/N or is there any replaceable stuff like rubber bushings in it? Thanks.

      The car has 236k kms (146k mi) and my wife is very easy on it.
      Last edited by vince1; 01-26-2020 at 01:34 PM.
      07 XC90 3.2

    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      Catalytic converter failure or inefficiency is a general topic, not necessarily 3.2 specific. Of course, any catalytic that gets caked with oil will run inefficiently. Sometimes the inefficient catalyst is due to a poorly running engine and not necessarily that the cat is bad. 2.5t owners can see a catalyst inefficient code when the coils/plugs and TCV need replacing and it will go away when those parts are changed. I just replaced 2 gaskets for less than $20 on a 3.5L Honda engine for a leaky (oil) spool valve (aka controlling VTEC & VCM) which threw a catalyst inefficient code because VTEC was off. Shop wanted $800 for a new spool valve and $1100 for a catalytic converter. It just passed smog and the $2k shop fix was solved in $20 worth of parts.

      Good maintenance is outlined here and should keep the engine running efficiently.
      Both P0420 and P0430 can be total red herrings. My 3.2L trips one, the other, or both every month or two.... but only at the instant when the car goes closed loop. Never happens otherwise. There are a couple gaskets between the two O2 sensors.... plus there's all of the green rubber seals on the intake manifold.

      -Ryan

      Quote Originally Posted by vince1 View Post
      Thanks ggleavitt for the tip on the upper torque rod. Now I know when the car is cold where that grinding rocks noise comes from. I checked and the link is loose so it's time to look for that part. Anyone got a P/N or is there any replaceable stuff like rubber bushings in it? Thanks.

      The car has 236k kms (146k mi) and my wife is very easy on it.
      Look up the part on IPD's site. Hutchinson is the brand you want. Hold old and new together and you'll see where the Volvo logo and p/n have been scraped off of the Hutchinson part. Word of caution: I found that all of my torque rods were worn out, stretched, or ripped on my 2011 at 140K miles. The nature of the transverse engine means that as the mounts sag, the load "at rest" starts yanking on all the mounts and torque rods. In other words, they arguably all fail as a package.

      2011-on engines have 6 "mounts": Three proper mounts, and three torque rods.

      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    22. #55
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      I realize now that most of my work is not on the 3.2 engine in my XC90. It has been a bulletproof 6cyl with good oil changes and maintenance. From my experience, here is what I suggest for the 3.2 engine, regardless of year.
      http://australiancar.reviews/Volvo_SI6_Engine.php - Engine info


      Serpentine Belt Service (plus water pump & thermostat)

      I've done all the 3.2 maintenance myself and I suggest not to wait until 150k miles to do the serpentine belt service. I suggest to do it closer to 100k miles. This should include the belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump (kit), and water pump coupling (could break upon removal). At ~90k miles, I could already hear pulley bearing wear noise. You can start with the first link and work through the following pages for a guide on the process. I would add to do the thermostat at the same time as the water pump. I did not use any special tools. The thermostat is electronically controlled and accessible under the intake manifold. I was able to change it without removing the intake using a long extension and a flex joint. Lastly, on the drive belt itself, use a good brand, such as Volvo or Contitech. I have used Goodyear or another brand in other European cars and they are not the right size.
      https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/x...ce_and_repair/
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65nnaYmKXqE
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19X3g5w1CbY
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGWGCPNaxpY&t=77s
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLK8LsB_sq4&t=18s - Thermostat
      https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-...gateway&sr=8-3 - Tool I used to gain access to the water pump coupling (might also need torx bit set)

      Oil Selection
      I've done tons of research and shared my work/experience on other posts. I suggest Mobil 1 0W-40 for its cold weather flow, high temp protection, and amount of zinc. The zinc can help prevent wear associated with 3.2 oil consumption. Also, use a good oil filter such as Mann, Mahle, or Volvo. I like to keep a 5,000-5,500 mile oil change interval instead of 7,500. Oil is cheap compared to engine work due to oil consumption caused by premature wear. I don't like conventional oil for this modern engine because conv. oil with use can get too thick on cold temp start-ups. Too thick of an oil on cold temp start-up might bypass the oil filter because of the high oil pressure as well as take longer to reach the vital engine parts. A bad combination. Lastly, do not overfill the engine as the oil may go through the PCV.
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...oooo-confusing
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8 - This is why you should use a synthetic, even if you have an old engine that previously used conventional

      Alternator
      This is a part that could fail, but it is not difficult to change. It is also known because the bolt for the drive gear (decoupler) can come loose. Here are videos to help guide changing it. If you have to change the alternator or have access, remove the decoupler bolt and add blue Loctite to prevent it from backing out. New intake manifold seals should be used and the Victor Reinz ones are affordable.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8M4scO_ogw
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXgKvT3PoNc
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2x9cufzCXmo

      Engine Mounts
      Do them around 100k miles. Depending on driver history and driving style, you can go longer or shorter. All XC90 engine variants will need engine mounts. The 3.2 does not have the same type of upper torque mount style as the 2.5 or V8, but has one on the passenger side. Replace the front, rear, upper passenger side, lower passenger side, and the transmission torque mount under the driver's front side.

      PCV
      Many many newer engines use an internal diaphragm for the PCV or crankcase ventilation. This part on top of the engine can cause a whine or vacuum sound and may cause an oil consumption or running issue. I also suggest a scheduled replacement around 100k miles. It is not if but when the diaphragm rubber will break (same in many other new engines across different makes). Get either Volvo or OE FoMoCo brand. All the same, but the Volvo brand could be cheaper at times. Easy to change.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBPGg2cKTWo&t=129s

      Spark Plugs
      I like to use original Volvo ones, but people (and I) have used Bosch. I think Denso is used for the later S5 engine. I don't trust other brands as far as it running smoothly in the engine. Change around 50k miles because the 3.2 likes to rev on downshifts. That extra use in upper rpms can increase spark plug wear.

      Ignition Coils
      These should last a long time. The 3.2 does not suffer from the same coil pack issues seen in the 2.5t. You can wait until one goes and then replace all 6 so there is a more equal spark between cylinders. Also, change all six because if one goes, the others might not be too far behind. If you want to change them on a scheduled timeframe, then 150k miles is a good mileage based on normal wear on the coils/boots (people do see them last past 200k miles, some have not). If your 3.2 has over 150k miles and you are planning a road trip across the country with kids, do the coils. These can stop your drive and might take days to source parts (depending on your location), worse if it's a weekend.

      Brake Vacuum Pump
      The seal for the vacuum pump can leak oil. The remedy is an affordable kit. Not difficult to do and easy to check for the oil leaking. It can go at 60k miles or at 120k miles, not really mileage specific. Fix if leaking.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01ljbu1WRdo

      Fuel Pressure Sensor
      This part is shared across engines and models for Volvo and is a known failure sensor indicated by a trouble code. Buy Bosch. There is less room to remove the holding screw than in a 2.5t. I used the same bit ratchet used for the water pump coupling and a flathead screwdriver wrapped in a towel to give very little side force to keep the ratchet straight (between the ratchet and valve cover hump). Another option is to purchase an "L" shaped torx set. It is vital to use the correct size torx so you don't strip the screw. Should be a tight fit and you can test the fit on a new screw (p/n 986201).
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x58F_kxdZY
      https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-...gateway&sr=8-3 - Tool I used
      https://www.amazon.com/Wrench-Screwd...gateway&sr=8-5 - Can't vouch for this tool set, but this style may also fit.

      R.E.A.D
      You do not want this problem, but if you hear metallic bearing noise, then you may have a READ issue, but I haven't really heard of people having an issue recently. Personally, I think good oil can help with this area. Here is info on what it takes to fix it.
      https://www.scottsautomotivemd.com/v...cessory-drive/

      Technical Bulletin (TJ)
      This is if there is an oil consumption issue. Many still do not have it, including mine. It is helpful in what to look for, such as with the spark plugs.
      http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/V...ion_201204.pdf
      Replying to sub into thread. Good info, thank you! I have a 2010 V70R with the 3.2 and just rolled over 100k. I was curious if I needed to get the serpentine belt and other acc'y checked out.

      Cheers!
      2010 V70R | 100k
      2006 XC70 | 200k

    23. #56
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by donalan View Post
      NOTE The A/C bracket on earlier B6324S engines needed special tools (volvo tool 9997262) to realign if removed. This was changed for the S5 version, and no special tools are needed. Video does NOT show alignment tool use so I assume its a B6324S5 engine manufactured after May 2010. Use of the alignment tool is nuanced as it requires a specific sequence of loosening then tightening both brackets for the compressor in order to 1. position the alignment tool then 2. tighten the compressor brackets to specified torque.
      That's interesting because 9997262 is referenced in VIDA all the way up until the end of XC90 P2 production regardless of engine variant. What makes you think it isn't needed?
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      That's interesting because 9997262 is referenced in VIDA all the way up until the end of XC90 P2 production regardless of engine variant. What makes you think it isn't needed?
      2011-on (S5 Engine) on does not need the tool, per VIDA:

      ACbracket.JPG

      Folks have gotten away without the special tool on earlier engines. I think with enough White-Out or paint marks on things, you'll get it close enough. There's more wiggle room than one would expect in serpentine belt pulley alignment. I'd feel more comfortable with a pulley alignment laser tool

      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    25. #58
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      2011-on (S5 Engine) on does not need the tool, per VIDA:

      ACbracket.JPG

      Folks have gotten away without the special tool on earlier engines. I think with enough White-Out or paint marks on things, you'll get it close enough. There's more wiggle room than one would expect in serpentine belt pulley alignment. I'd feel more comfortable with a pulley alignment laser tool

      -Ryan
      That's interesting. Thanks for sharing the photo!

      In VIDA under Transmission for the engine, for auxillary bracket, it shows the tool being used through all years. That's why I thought that. Maybe it just wasn't updated in that part of the manual.
      Last edited by mgm7890; 02-05-2020 at 06:58 AM.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    26. #59
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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      That's interesting. Thanks for sharing the photo!

      In VIDA under Transmission for the engine, for auxillary bracket, it shows the tool being used through all years. That's why I thought that. Maybe it just wasn't updated in that part of the manual.
      This image came out of the Design and Function section of VIDA, under the "engine" category. A lot of this info gets kinda buried in seemingly random places in VIDA!

      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    27. #60
      Junior Member zemaitis's Avatar
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      Chicagoland
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      Hi. Just came over from the P3 V70 XC70 threads and saw this one regarding the 3.2 engine. I take it that it is the same engine as in the XC90 (though I am having a hard time finding out whether its B6324S or B6324S2). Your posts here are very nicely detailed.
      Seeing that the vehicles are now 10 yrs old, I was looking forward to doing some preventative maintenance this spring to start saving some $$$. One of the vehicles was purchased in 2013 as a CPO and has been religiously Volvo serviced at the stated intervals as is now at c. 130K miles (wife's car, don't want to have complaints). My vehicle was purchased used in 2017 (140K miles) and now has 165K miles but has not gone through the rigorous maintenance protocol (150K mile service is over $2K) save for oil changes and general fluid reviews. Both vehicles suffered the serpentine / pulley / tensioner issue about 16-18 months ago (incredibly only 6 weeks apart), so those should be good to go. I didnít know about the water pump and thermostat (is this something that usually fails at this age?).
      A couple questions:
      Motor mounts: I have read that they tend to wear out. When replacing, I see you suggest in replacing all of them rather than the one that seems to be the usual suspect (I believe it is the upper passenger side (torque?) one). Do I read correctly that there are 5 mounts? Probably will set me back a bit for both cars.
      Oil: Would you suggest in changing to synthetic going forward or should I stay with the standard? I do change it currently at around 3-4K miles. Any issue in changing from standard to synthetic?
      Ignition Coils: Seeing that I am in your suggested timeframe, is this something that is relatively easy to change, or do I need to use a mechanic / dealership. Any estimate on the price?
      I am looking to get both the coolant replaced as well as transmission fluid flushed. (though I am thoroughly confused on which transmission fluid to use yet). I donít know when / if brake and power steering fluids have been replaced, but I believe something would have been done when the mechanics check the vehicle.
      Finally, as I am also local to the Chi town area (SW suburbs) would you perhaps have any independent Volvo mechanics to recommend? I would like to have a thorough review on my vehicle at least.
      Many thanks,
      Cheers,
      AZ
      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      I realize now that most of my work is not on the 3.2 engine in my XC90. It has been a bulletproof 6cyl with good oil changes and maintenance. From my experience, here is what I suggest for the 3.2 engine, regardless of year.
      http://australiancar.reviews/Volvo_SI6_Engine.php - Engine info


      Serpentine Belt Service (plus water pump & thermostat)

      I've done all the 3.2 maintenance myself and I suggest not to wait until 150k miles to do the serpentine belt service. I suggest to do it closer to 100k miles. This should include the belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump (kit), and water pump coupling (could break upon removal). At ~90k miles, I could already hear pulley bearing wear noise. You can start with the first link and work through the following pages for a guide on the process. I would add to do the thermostat at the same time as the water pump. I did not use any special tools. The thermostat is electronically controlled and accessible under the intake manifold. I was able to change it without removing the intake using a long extension and a flex joint. Lastly, on the drive belt itself, use a good brand, such as Volvo or Contitech. I have used Goodyear or another brand in other European cars and they are not the right size.
      https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/x...ce_and_repair/
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65nnaYmKXqE
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19X3g5w1CbY
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGWGCPNaxpY&t=77s
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLK8LsB_sq4&t=18s - Thermostat
      https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-...gateway&sr=8-3 - Tool I used to gain access to the water pump coupling (might also need torx bit set)

      Oil Selection
      I've done tons of research and shared my work/experience on other posts. I suggest Mobil 1 0W-40 for its cold weather flow, high temp protection, and amount of zinc. The zinc can help prevent wear associated with 3.2 oil consumption. Also, use a good oil filter such as Mann, Mahle, or Volvo. I like to keep a 5,000-5,500 mile oil change interval instead of 7,500. Oil is cheap compared to engine work due to oil consumption caused by premature wear. I don't like conventional oil for this modern engine because conv. oil with use can get too thick on cold temp start-ups. Too thick of an oil on cold temp start-up might bypass the oil filter because of the high oil pressure as well as take longer to reach the vital engine parts. A bad combination. Lastly, do not overfill the engine as the oil may go through the PCV.
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...oooo-confusing
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8 - This is why you should use a synthetic, even if you have an old engine that previously used conventional

      Alternator
      This is a part that could fail, but it is not difficult to change. It is also known because the bolt for the drive gear (decoupler) can come loose. Here are videos to help guide changing it. If you have to change the alternator or have access, remove the decoupler bolt and add blue Loctite to prevent it from backing out. New intake manifold seals should be used and the Victor Reinz ones are affordable.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8M4scO_ogw
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXgKvT3PoNc
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2x9cufzCXmo

      Engine Mounts
      Do them around 100k miles. Depending on driver history and driving style, you can go longer or shorter. All XC90 engine variants will need engine mounts. The 3.2 does not have the same type of upper torque mount style as the 2.5 or V8, but has one on the passenger side. Replace the front, rear, upper passenger side, lower passenger side, and the transmission torque mount under the driver's front side.

      PCV
      Many many newer engines use an internal diaphragm for the PCV or crankcase ventilation. This part on top of the engine can cause a whine or vacuum sound and may cause an oil consumption or running issue. I also suggest a scheduled replacement around 100k miles. It is not if but when the diaphragm rubber will break (same in many other new engines across different makes). Get either Volvo or OE FoMoCo brand. All the same, but the Volvo brand could be cheaper at times. Easy to change.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBPGg2cKTWo&t=129s

      Spark Plugs
      I like to use original Volvo ones, but people (and I) have used Bosch. I think Denso is used for the later S5 engine. I don't trust other brands as far as it running smoothly in the engine. Change around 50k miles because the 3.2 likes to rev on downshifts. That extra use in upper rpms can increase spark plug wear.

      Ignition Coils
      These should last a long time. The 3.2 does not suffer from the same coil pack issues seen in the 2.5t. You can wait until one goes and then replace all 6 so there is a more equal spark between cylinders. Also, change all six because if one goes, the others might not be too far behind. If you want to change them on a scheduled timeframe, then 150k miles is a good mileage based on normal wear on the coils/boots (people do see them last past 200k miles, some have not). If your 3.2 has over 150k miles and you are planning a road trip across the country with kids, do the coils. These can stop your drive and might take days to source parts (depending on your location), worse if it's a weekend.

      Brake Vacuum Pump
      The seal for the vacuum pump can leak oil. The remedy is an affordable kit. Not difficult to do and easy to check for the oil leaking. It can go at 60k miles or at 120k miles, not really mileage specific. Fix if leaking.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01ljbu1WRdo

      Fuel Pressure Sensor
      This part is shared across engines and models for Volvo and is a known failure sensor indicated by a trouble code. Buy Bosch. There is less room to remove the holding screw than in a 2.5t. I used the same bit ratchet used for the water pump coupling and a flathead screwdriver wrapped in a towel to give very little side force to keep the ratchet straight (between the ratchet and valve cover hump). Another option is to purchase an "L" shaped torx set. It is vital to use the correct size torx so you don't strip the screw. Should be a tight fit and you can test the fit on a new screw (p/n 986201).
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x58F_kxdZY
      https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-...gateway&sr=8-3 - Tool I used
      https://www.amazon.com/Wrench-Screwd...gateway&sr=8-5 - Can't vouch for this tool set, but this style may also fit.

      R.E.A.D
      You do not want this problem, but if you hear metallic bearing noise, then you may have a READ issue, but I haven't really heard of people having an issue recently. Personally, I think good oil can help with this area. Here is info on what it takes to fix it.
      https://www.scottsautomotivemd.com/v...cessory-drive/

      Technical Bulletin (TJ)
      This is if there is an oil consumption issue. Many still do not have it, including mine. It is helpful in what to look for, such as with the spark plugs.
      http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/V...ion_201204.pdf

    28. #61
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      Chicago & D.C. Metro
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      Quote Originally Posted by zemaitis View Post
      Hi. Just came over from the P3 V70 XC70 threads and saw this one regarding the 3.2 engine. I take it that it is the same engine as in the XC90 (though I am having a hard time finding out whether its B6324S or B6324S2). Your posts here are very nicely detailed.
      Seeing that the vehicles are now 10 yrs old, I was looking forward to doing some preventative maintenance this spring to start saving some $$$. One of the vehicles was purchased in 2013 as a CPO and has been religiously Volvo serviced at the stated intervals as is now at c. 130K miles (wife's car, don't want to have complaints). My vehicle was purchased used in 2017 (140K miles) and now has 165K miles but has not gone through the rigorous maintenance protocol (150K mile service is over $2K) save for oil changes and general fluid reviews. Both vehicles suffered the serpentine / pulley / tensioner issue about 16-18 months ago (incredibly only 6 weeks apart), so those should be good to go. I didnít know about the water pump and thermostat (is this something that usually fails at this age?).
      A couple questions:
      Motor mounts: I have read that they tend to wear out. When replacing, I see you suggest in replacing all of them rather than the one that seems to be the usual suspect (I believe it is the upper passenger side (torque?) one). Do I read correctly that there are 5 mounts? Probably will set me back a bit for both cars.
      Oil: Would you suggest in changing to synthetic going forward or should I stay with the standard? I do change it currently at around 3-4K miles. Any issue in changing from standard to synthetic?
      Ignition Coils: Seeing that I am in your suggested timeframe, is this something that is relatively easy to change, or do I need to use a mechanic / dealership. Any estimate on the price?
      I am looking to get both the coolant replaced as well as transmission fluid flushed. (though I am thoroughly confused on which transmission fluid to use yet). I donít know when / if brake and power steering fluids have been replaced, but I believe something would have been done when the mechanics check the vehicle.
      Finally, as I am also local to the Chi town area (SW suburbs) would you perhaps have any independent Volvo mechanics to recommend? I would like to have a thorough review on my vehicle at least.
      Many thanks,
      Cheers,
      AZ
      First, yes, the water pump and thermostat should have been replaced when the serpentine belt was done. The water pump requires the serpentine belt to be removed. If the thermostat fails, it causes either the car not heating up to temp or, it can stick overheating the cooling system overheating the engine and/or causing a coolant high-pressure situation where a hose could blow.
      Motor mounts: yes, replace all because if they weren't changed on either car, they will need replacing. If you only change one, it can wear out faster due to the other mounts wear and moving/flexing.
      Oil: You can try the synthetic Mobil 1 0W-40 for 2 oil changes and see how you like it. It is okay to try synthetic and if you don't like it, go back to your conventional oil of choice. Those have been good oil change intervals for conventional.
      Ignition coils: very easy to do. One bolt for each, then unhook the electrical connector. There are videos on youtube for how to change the spark plugs, which also shows how to remove the coils.
      Transmission fluid: not sure about the non-XC90, but the 2013 XC90 has the WS fluid. You didn't mention the year of your vehicle and that might determine the type of transmission fluid.

      I do my own maintenance so, besides the dealership for warranty work, I have not been to a Volvo mechanic in the Chicagoland area.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    29. #62
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      Larchmont, New York
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      Hey all, I also come from the P3 Wagon forums!
      More recently I have been up to some shenanigans with my 09' Xc70 3.2 (132K miles), doing some highway pulls with some of my friends. After this weekend, I went to a meetup with some people (Socially distanced), where I kept the car in shade to cool down after a pull. I go to leave, when I reach a problem. I start the car, then the motor instantly dies and my dash lights up like a Christmas tree. I stopped the car (electrical and all), then start it again. I get a "Schedule Maintenance" on the dash. I limp it home, unsure of what exactly happened.

      I run 5W-30 with 91-93 octane (when I can).

      I am in the NY Westchester area, If any of you guys have any ideas with what happened after the pulls, please let me know.
      Best,
      Rose

    30. #63
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      Chicago & D.C. Metro
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      Quote Originally Posted by Rose_volvo View Post
      Hey all, I also come from the P3 Wagon forums!
      More recently I have been up to some shenanigans with my 09' Xc70 3.2 (132K miles), doing some highway pulls with some of my friends. After this weekend, I went to a meetup with some people (Socially distanced), where I kept the car in shade to cool down after a pull. I go to leave, when I reach a problem. I start the car, then the motor instantly dies and my dash lights up like a Christmas tree. I stopped the car (electrical and all), then start it again. I get a "Schedule Maintenance" on the dash. I limp it home, unsure of what exactly happened.

      I run 5W-30 with 91-93 octane (when I can).

      I am in the NY Westchester area, If any of you guys have any ideas with what happened after the pulls, please let me know.
      Best,
      Rose
      Perhaps start a new thread for your specific issue.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    31. #64
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      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      8
      Just a couple things to add, I have owned an 08 XC90 for 6 years and 100k miles so far (160k total). It has been a great car for our family of 6. I just skimmed through all the responses here and was a little surprised about what I did and didn't see.
      First, is no one else having trouble with the heater cores? I've replace mine twice and the o-rings at least twice more. It was so common for a while it seemed to go out every summer mid-road trip so I started keeping a bypass hose by the spare tire when it did start leaking.
      Second, I've been using Advance Auto Parts store brand 5W40 Synthetic Euro blend oil with Mann filters and have been very pleased!
      Last, the best mod we did to this car was deleting the middle row middle seat. Makes the rear seats (more) accessible and honestly only a small person could sit there anyway. Like I said, there's six of us and as the kids get older, taller its harder to fit everyone inside comfortably, but this mod easily bought us a couple more years before we have to get a suburban or something.
      Just my 2c, cheers.

    32. #65
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      Quote Originally Posted by texasdieselguy View Post
      Just a couple things to add, I have owned an 08 XC90 for 6 years and 100k miles so far (160k total). It has been a great car for our family of 6. I just skimmed through all the responses here and was a little surprised about what I did and didn't see.
      First, is no one else having trouble with the heater cores? I've replace mine twice and the o-rings at least twice more. It was so common for a while it seemed to go out every summer mid-road trip so I started keeping a bypass hose by the spare tire when it did start leaking.
      Second, I've been using Advance Auto Parts store brand 5W40 Synthetic Euro blend oil with Mann filters and have been very pleased!
      Last, the best mod we did to this car was deleting the middle row middle seat. Makes the rear seats (more) accessible and honestly only a small person could sit there anyway. Like I said, there's six of us and as the kids get older, taller its harder to fit everyone inside comfortably, but this mod easily bought us a couple more years before we have to get a suburban or something.
      Just my 2c, cheers.
      We're only yakking about the engine itself specifically in this thread, rather than the 3.2L as a "trim level". Different years had all kinds of different issues with other components.

      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    33. #66
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      Chicago & D.C. Metro
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      I decided to change out my coils with 152k miles on the odometer. Personally, I cannot be caught in one of my 11 hr cross-country drives with a bad coil in the middle of the night. So, here is some preventative maintenance. I put 3 of the old ones in a box next to the battery just in case.

      I am very happy I did. Anyone with a 2.5t knows how new plugs and coils can bring back the life of the engine at 100k miles. While the 3.2 is not forced induction, it does benefit from fresh coils. With the new coils at my 152k miles, the XC90 feels 200lbs lighter. I don't have to go as far down on the accelerator pedal in my normal drives and the overall fuel mileage is better. Check this maintenance item to do around 150k miles or earlier. I now see the benefit of not waiting for a coil to fail in this engine. The improved MPG should offset the cost in two years and those two years are with a better & healthier running engine.

      The Delphi coils are the exact same coils that came on the engine. I have pics below. The box says Delphi, the part says Denso and FoMoCo (Ford). Part numbers are exactly the same.



      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    34. #67
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      The Delphi coils are the exact same coils that came on the engine. I have pics below. The box says Delphi, the part says Denso and FoMoCo (Ford). Part numbers are exactly the same.
      Oohhh! That's a hot tip! Thanks!

      -Ryan
      Current fleet:
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 AWD (Wife-mobile)

    35. #68
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      Oohhh! That's a hot tip! Thanks!

      -Ryan
      Totally agree. I am close 10k away.


      2010 xc90 3.2 | 2008 xc 70 3.2
      2010 XC90 3.2 AWD / 2008 xc70 3.2
      Somewhere in space and time

    36. #69
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      Ours stays close to home and gets fixed on an as needed basis only. I don't know if I will ever need to put in the spare belt and water pump that was purchased maybe five years ago. The next car will be less of a fuel burner and have fewer moving parts. Just one more year I keep saying. Maintenance costs in the previous year were about $1000 so not so bad.
      07 XC90 3.2

    37. #70
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      Okay, so an update on those ignition coils after putting 300 miles on them. My mpg is worse because the engine is much more fun to drive with my lead foot. It revs up to redline with much less effort. It feels like the engine is not holding back its ignition timing (advance) for the full potential power of the engine. I have also noticed when the engine computer is not pulling timing, the transmission shifts better & smoother (better matched) in regular driving or balls out acceleration. Noticed this when using 93 octane versus 87 and now using 93 octane with the new coils (plus 3k mile spark plugs).

      In normal crusing, it gets better fuel mileage than before.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

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