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    1. #1
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      How do YOU change your pads?

      I have some EBC yellow pads I am probably going to install tonight. Typically when i install new pads, i use a c clamp to push the caliper back in enough so that the new pads fit over the rotor.
      Does anyone do anything different? For the moment, mainly interested in the front.
      2012 S60 T6 (non R), P*, do88 FMIC, k&N drop in, IPD Sway Bar, PowerFlex "RACE" Torque Mount insert, Stop Tech Slotted Rotors, IPD turbo Back exhaust, More to come?.

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    3. #2
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      I bought a brake kit from Amazon. Pays for itself in 1 job! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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    4. #3
      Junior Member Stef1's Avatar
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      I use a cheap piston pushing tool.

      https://www.amazon.com/Autotools-Spr.../dp/B007N3I4QY
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    6. #4
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      I usually just use a set of channel locks for normal calipers. For fancy brembo ones with a finish on them I have a generic brake caliper clamp or use a rag or piece of rubber to prevent the calipers from getting scratched. Leave the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and watch closely so the reservoir doesn't overflow.
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
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    7. #5
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      The first thing I do is to suck some fluid out of the reservoir using a turkey baster. Otherwise, you may overflow the reservoir when pushing the pistons back. Annoying!

      Before I take the caliper off I wedge a screwdriver between pad and disc to push the piston(s) back as far as possible. Then I take the caliper off.

      I have one of those pump-up brake bleeders which really really makes the job of changing fluid easier.

    8. #6
      Junior Member TnoV60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Stef1 View Post
      Is it enough for the rear caliper? I thought you need to not only push but screw them back at the same time.
      Is it accurate?
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    9. #7
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by TnoV60 View Post
      Is it enough for the rear caliper? I thought you need to not only push but screw them back at the same time.
      Is it accurate?
      No it's not enough for the rear. You need the plate with the two little dimples as shown in the kit posted earlier in the thread.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 205K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
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    10. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by TnoV60 View Post
      Is it enough for the rear caliper? I thought you need to not only push but screw them back at the same time.
      Is it accurate?
      No it's not enough for the rear. You need the plate with the two little dimples as shown in the kit posted earlier in the thread.
      No you don't. Once the EPB is retracted, the piston simply pushes in.

    11. #9
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      No you don't. Once the EPB is retracted, the piston simply pushes in.
      My fault, I thought it was just like the C30's rear breaks.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 205K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 63k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 205k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
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    12. #10
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      No you don't. Once the EPB is retracted, the piston simply pushes in.
      Good to know! I assumed twist and push like prior P1 platform cars I've had.
      Logan

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    13. #11
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      Correct, P1 needed to be twisted. As did the old S/V40.

    14. #12
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      C-clamp. No other special tools. I use the inner pad as a support plate for pushing the piston in.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
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    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by p.rico View Post
      C-clamp. No other special tools. I use the inner pad as a support plate for pushing the piston in.
      +1

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    16. #14
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      While I used to use a c-clamp, I have to say that a spreader tool like this or this is inexpensive and a lot easier to place on the rear calipers considering how wide the EPB mechanism makes the caliper.
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    17. #15
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      I changed my front pads last night. I have to say the volvo caliper "spliting" like it does made it super easy. The new pads didnt have much more material than the old ones so i was able to use the bolts that connect the two halfs to squeeze the caliper into place. Pretty easy job. If the front pads stay noise free, im going to put some EBC yellows on the rear.
      2012 S60 T6 (non R), P*, do88 FMIC, k&N drop in, IPD Sway Bar, PowerFlex "RACE" Torque Mount insert, Stop Tech Slotted Rotors, IPD turbo Back exhaust, More to come?.

    18. #16
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 04lss View Post
      I changed my front pads last night. I have to say the volvo caliper "spliting" like it does made it super easy. The new pads didnt have much more material than the old ones so i was able to use the bolts that connect the two halfs to squeeze the caliper into place. Pretty easy job. If the front pads stay noise free, im going to put some EBC yellows on the rear.
      Not that it would ruin anything (I guess it could), but the VIDA guides tell you explicitly not to split the caliper.

      I did it the first time myself, because I was having trouble figuring out how to pull the caliper off the rotor.

      All you need to do is remove the 7 mm slide pins and push the caliper against the rotor to push the piston in, and it comes right up and off the rotor with no issue. You basically did that in the end to fit the new pad in.
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    19. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by 04lss View Post
      I changed my front pads last night. I have to say the volvo caliper "spliting" like it does made it super easy. The new pads didnt have much more material than the old ones so i was able to use the bolts that connect the two halfs to squeeze the caliper into place. Pretty easy job. If the front pads stay noise free, im going to put some EBC yellows on the rear.
      I use a C-Clamp that I bought back in high school for this purpose although some of these other tools now look more convenient. Do you apply anything to the back of pads to prevent noise/squealing?
      2012 S60 T5 - Flamenco Red, Soft/Sandstone Beige, Climate, Premium, Multimedia, Xenons, BLIS, PCC, Park Assist, Urbane Wood, TFT Retrofit

    20. #18
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      I use that Syl Glide stuff on the pad backs and channels where the pads rest. Never had a squeaky brake.
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
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    21. #19
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      I use that Syl Glide stuff on the pad backs and channels where the pads rest. Never had a squeaky brake.
      I used this as well before, and it works fine, although I think the silicone gunked up on me and led to sticky pads. This time I used moly grease. The Akebono pads came with a small packet, and I had a large tube of it sitting around as well.
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    22. #20
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    23. #21
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      +1. I also used one of these because it's all I had, and I didn't want metal on metal. The plastic bits helped keep it seated too.

      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      I use that Syl Glide stuff on the pad backs and channels where the pads rest. Never had a squeaky brake.
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    24. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by ecoDrive View Post
      I use a C-Clamp that I bought back in high school for this purpose although some of these other tools now look more convenient. Do you apply anything to the back of pads to prevent noise/squealing?
      I used the grease that came with the EBC pads. I put it in the channels in the caliper and on the slides. Thats about it. So far it only squeaks in reverse. That said EBC recommends a 1000 mile break in period, which isnt happening before the track.
      2012 S60 T6 (non R), P*, do88 FMIC, k&N drop in, IPD Sway Bar, PowerFlex "RACE" Torque Mount insert, Stop Tech Slotted Rotors, IPD turbo Back exhaust, More to come?.

    25. #23
      Junior Member Major Error's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ecoDrive View Post
      Yes....On the Mazda when I did autocross (with Hawk HP+ pads). The pad/rotor interaction was still noisy as hell, but no issues anywhere else.

      While the label lists acrylic compounds, it's functionally like liquid latex. It takes a bit to cure, but you don't need anything special to clean it off at the next pad service.
      Last edited by Major Error; 08-02-2019 at 10:17 AM. Reason: quote
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    26. #24
      Junior Member Major Error's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 04lss View Post
      That said EBC recommends a 1000 mile break in period
      Aw, that's no fun.

      The Hawk motorsport pads were ready to go within a day of installation (based on my HP+ experience):
      Get up to 30mph, brake very hard down to 5. Repeat 3x total, and repeat 3x each from 40, 50 and 60. Do not come to a complete stop during the process; park the vehicle on a level surface, (neutral, no eBrake) block the wheels and let cool for 24h.
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    27. #25
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ecoDrive View Post
      I used this all the time back in the day for my older Hondas. I remember purchasing it in aerosol cans though.
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