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    1. #36
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LittleRedRidingHood View Post
      Side note - it hasn't drank nearly as much coolant as I expected. The shop that briefly had it said drained the coolant. Coolant looks pretty blue in the tank (had yellow in it before), but it's only taken in about 5L and hasn't been dropping after 15 minutes of idling/reving at 2000rpm, and 20 minutes of driving. I was expecting it to take about 8.5L. There block was dry, and when I replaced the lower radiator hose none spilled. Could there have been another pool of coolant hiding out somewhere?
      It's nearly impossible to get all the coolant out. The main issue is the lines to the heater core, and the core itself. After that, the lower area of the block, oil cooler, various nooks and crannies. Generally the best approach is to drain the block and radiator, flush with clean water until clear, fill with straight coolant to the expected 50% volume, and finally top off with water. Using a vacuum fill method at the late stages helps, but isn't strictly necessary if you're careful to avoid air in the head.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

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    3. #37
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Thanks for the tip. What is the best methodology for avoiding air in the head when filling coolant from "empty" other than the vacuum fill method?
      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
      2006 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 - Titanium Grey
      Hilton Tuning Stage 2 ~ Mototec 3" Downpipe & Sport Exhaust ~ Do88 Intercooler ~ Snabb Intake Pipe
      RIP - 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD Geartronic - Passion Red

    4. #38
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Well, it's tricky because there isn't a bleed point at the very top (mainly because that point is under the cam cover). When I did my coolant I was also doing the hoses, so I used the de-gas pipe that leaves the back of the head, above the transmission at the right side, facing the engine. It connects to the thin hose that snakes around the front, and connects to the overflow bottle. When coolant comes out there, you know the head is nearly full. At that point, if the rest of the system is also full (especially the heater core and the hard lines at the firewall), running the engine at idle will finish the job.

      Be sure you have the restrictor in the correct de-gas hose. It makes a difference in getting the flow started. You should see coolant circulating freely into the overflow bottle at idle, once the bubbles are out.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

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    6. #39
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Thanks, Tom. Given that info, I think I am good to go.

      Just got a call from the shop. Tires are on and it just passed the safety test. A few notes from them:

      • Rear break pads are worn, but not worn out
      • My Gorilla Tape cam cover fix JUST got it through safety with a "level 1" leak (weeping, but no drips). New plugs coming soon
      • Needed new license plate lamp bulbs (I didn't notice this and didn't see a warning/DTC)
      • Misfire is present, but not an issue for the safety test (should be fixed with new plugs)


      Whew, that was close. Today is the last day of my temporary registration, after which I'd have to have it towed around!
      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
      2006 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 - Titanium Grey
      Hilton Tuning Stage 2 ~ Mototec 3" Downpipe & Sport Exhaust ~ Do88 Intercooler ~ Snabb Intake Pipe
      RIP - 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD Geartronic - Passion Red

    7. #40
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Well, all the paperwork is done and it is now fully plated for 14 months. New spark plugs are in and it revs nice and smoothly - still need to clear the codes. It really shudders when accelerating from low rpm (sub-1500), though. Will look into that.

      After getting the registration and making a quick stop, I drove right up onto a parking curb in my S40 in my excitement and cracked the oil pan. Luckily it didn't leak at all when the engine was on. Got that fixed up last night with some steel reinforced JB weld. Will need to perform a permanent fix soon...

      Photos of the V50 to come shortly after it has been cleaned!
      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
      2006 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 - Titanium Grey
      Hilton Tuning Stage 2 ~ Mototec 3" Downpipe & Sport Exhaust ~ Do88 Intercooler ~ Snabb Intake Pipe
      RIP - 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD Geartronic - Passion Red

    8. #41
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      Shims and rear CAM seals

      I see you were shimming the block. I assume that is the process of filling the space between the cylinders... I just re-did my head and my spaces were very clean...did I screw up? Or, hopefully, it will run just fine without them. I am also having a heck of a time finding a part number for my rear cam seals. I got the rebuild kit from Rock auto and the seals they sent me are too thick and I can't screw in the keyed piece that goes on the ends of the cams. I have an s40 2006 B5244S7 here in California. Everywhere I look shows the front cam seals but are silent on the rear seals. Thank you for posting your project, it makes me feel a lot better about just having to replace the head gasket.

    9. #42
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by hyperiongate View Post
      I see you were shimming the block. I assume that is the process of filling the space between the cylinders... I just re-did my head and my spaces were very clean...did I screw up? Or, hopefully, it will run just fine without them. I am also having a heck of a time finding a part number for my rear cam seals. I got the rebuild kit from Rock auto and the seals they sent me are too thick and I can't screw in the keyed piece that goes on the ends of the cams. I have an s40 2006 B5244S7 here in California. Everywhere I look shows the front cam seals but are silent on the rear seals. Thank you for posting your project, it makes me feel a lot better about just having to replace the head gasket.
      Not at all - the block is not shimmed from the factory, and it is not necessary to do so when reassembling. Shimming the block is a "performance modification", strengthening it and allowing it to hold more than stock power more reliably (i.e. without cracking a cylinder wall). At stock power levels there is no reason to shim the block as they seem to be reliable beyond how long the body will realistically last more often than not.

      Regarding seals, there are only rubber cam seals on the timing side of the engine (front). On the rear, there are only the black rubber caps that are tapped/hammered into the large holes. Maybe post a photo of the seals you think need to go into that area - they are likely intended for somewhere else on the engine.
      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
      2006 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 - Titanium Grey
      Hilton Tuning Stage 2 ~ Mototec 3" Downpipe & Sport Exhaust ~ Do88 Intercooler ~ Snabb Intake Pipe
      RIP - 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD Geartronic - Passion Red

    10. #43
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      Rear cam seals

      Here is a picture of the backside of the cams. The Orange seals that I put in there were included in the kit from Rock Auto. I also had a bag of parts I saved after every piece I removed that had 1 of the orange seals and the larger brown seal that is sitting above the intake cam. I'm pretty sure that it was on the exhaust side. I have Vida/Dice and it doesn't show any rear cam seals, just the plugs... that's not to say there shouldn't be any. Whoever had the car previously had attempted to replace the head gasket. It was quite a mess, could have been worse, I drove it for 8,000 miles before blowing the head gasket good... going up a hill pushing 4500 rpm. It blew the cap off the exhaust cam.

      I tried using the orange seals as I show, but I can not put the cam timing sprockets on the cams because they don't go in far enough to seat on the locking notch. That's where I am at. Fortunately, my 2003 Suburban with 328,000 miles works just great so I can still get to work and such.

      Any guidance here would be greatly appreciated.


    11. #44
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Keep in mind there may be differences between the T5 and 2.4 that I'm not aware of, but I don't think there should be any seals in there (definitely not on the T5). I think you need to remove those red seals. I cannot think of where those are intended to be used. Please see this image for reference:



      The only thing sealing the cams on this side are the black rubber caps, seen here (part number: 1397381)

      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
      2006 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 - Titanium Grey
      Hilton Tuning Stage 2 ~ Mototec 3" Downpipe & Sport Exhaust ~ Do88 Intercooler ~ Snabb Intake Pipe
      RIP - 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD Geartronic - Passion Red

    12. #45
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      s40 rear cam seals ...or lack there of

      Thank you very much. That makes sense. I will try it out this weekend.

      I'll see if I can get a picture also.

    13. #46
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      I vaguely recall a parts diagram showing o-ring type seals on certain engine types at the rear of the cams, well inside the area shown here. There are definitely no lip seals like the ones for the pulleys at the front. Did you get four of these in this kit?
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

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