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    1. #71
      Junior Member SteveP's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by gak View Post
      Interest only mortgages? They are crazy. I've always put down 10-20%.

      Things sound like they have changed a lot in Sweden. I lived in Stockholm in the 1970s, in ńppelviken, Bromma, from where I took the trykk to work and was at the Central Station in about 15 minutes. We rented a small villa (detached house) with a yard that would sell for about $3-400K at that time, what a house more than twice the size would cost in the Washington suburbs with a comparable commute. In NYC at that time $3-400K might get you a comparable house, but the commute would be well over an hour by train.

      Also, my neighbors said that banks typically required a 30% or higher down payment when applying for a mortgage.

      When I lived in Norway in the mid-1980s houses were even more expensive compared to the United States, so were condos.
      We were in Gothenberg, Stockholm and Oslo in June last year. From just the tourist perspective it seemed Oslo was much more expensive. We had to detour off the highway through Jonkoping, which looked like it would be a nice place to retire.

      As for tires, I'm not wanting to leave the 19" P-Zeros on our new to us S90, but I don't want to fork out a fortune for winter wheels. Considering Vredestein Wintrac Xtreme S. They're well rated here and Tire Rack.
      His: 2018 S90 Momentum Osium Gray/Black Hers: 2015.5 V60 Premiere E-Drive Silver/Black
      Gone But Not Forgotten: 2006 XC90 V8 Silver/Black, 2010 C30 T5 R Design Passion Red, 2004 V70R Ti/Gobi, 2004 S80, 2001 V70, 740GLE and too many 240s to count!
      To R is Still Human!

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    3. #72
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      Quote Originally Posted by mattlach View Post
      So, I'll answer my own question.

      Apparently our cars are equipped with a new type of TPMS system called iTMPS or Indirect TPMS (as opposed to the traditional dTPMS or Direct TPMS systems that require in-wheel sensors)

      Wikipedia describes it as follows:


      You learn something ever day!
      Indirect TPMS has been around for a while - my last car had it. My car previous to that had direct TPMS and as a result I will avoid a car with direct TPMS (unless theyíve improved the systems). Why? Because in the old direct TPMS systems you had to reprogram the car every time you changed wheels. The memory (at least in my car) could not handle more than 5 IDís (4 wheels and the spare) so you had to make a trip to the dealer when you changed to winters. And back then, sensors were harder to find and expensive. It just seemed like a blatant way for manufacturers to drive customers to the dealer. I mean, how hard would it be to allow the TPMS monitoring system to hold two sets of wheels or have a mode to read and detect new sensors? Nowadays you can buy compatible aftermarket sensors and TPMS ID readers and Laptop connectors to do your own programming but it is just too much hassle. Further, the batteries last only as long as the typical life of a tire so itís one more wear item to think about.

      More importantly, my own experience with Indirect TPMS was very positive. I got a few false warnings while city driving (just a handful) but that was usually after I pumped up a tire and forgot to re-set the system. I got one real city driving warning and it turned out to be a nail in the tire. I got one high speed highway warning and it gave me enough time to get to the right shoulder before the tire disintegrated. Itís a simpler and superior system to just use the existing ABS system to indirectly monitor tire inflation, IMO. Btw, my car didnít have a spare but thatís another topic...

    4. #73
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      Quote Originally Posted by CedarMtn View Post
      Indirect TPMS has been around for a while - my last car had it. My car previous to that had direct TPMS and as a result I will avoid a car with direct TPMS (unless theyíve improved the systems). Why? Because in the old direct TPMS systems you had to reprogram the car every time you changed wheels. The memory (at least in my car) could not handle more than 5 IDís (4 wheels and the spare) so you had to make a trip to the dealer when you changed to winters. And back then, sensors were harder to find and expensive. It just seemed like a blatant way for manufacturers to drive customers to the dealer. I mean, how hard would it be to allow the TPMS monitoring system to hold two sets of wheels or have a mode to read and detect new sensors? Nowadays you can buy compatible aftermarket sensors and TPMS ID readers and Laptop connectors to do your own programming but it is just too much hassle. Further, the batteries last only as long as the typical life of a tire so itís one more wear item to think about.

      More importantly, my own experience with Indirect TPMS was very positive. I got a few false warnings while city driving (just a handful) but that was usually after I pumped up a tire and forgot to re-set the system. I got one real city driving warning and it turned out to be a nail in the tire. I got one high speed highway warning and it gave me enough time to get to the right shoulder before the tire disintegrated. Itís a simpler and superior system to just use the existing ABS system to indirectly monitor tire inflation, IMO. Btw, my car didnít have a spare but thatís another topic...
      https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=44

      To me personally, it just feels like they are being cheap and try to cost cut the TPMS sensors out. All the cheap cars have Indirect TPMS because it is cheaper to do (require no additional sensors and just few lines of code) to comply with the law.

      It has few shortcomings, for example, you will never know the exact pressure in each wheels, during season changes all the tire will inflate/deflate at the same rate which means the system will see all wheel speed the same and not alert if all wheels are over or under-inflated.

      Certain manufacturers restricting IDs to 5 is probably their attempt to get more money from you. The few cars I owned all are able to store 2 sets of TPMS. One car even has a fall back that if no sensors are detected, it will use Indirect TPMS to monitor the wheels.

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    6. #74
      Junior Member mattlach's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by rentalcar View Post
      Same as last year, winter setup: 20" Ixion IV with 255/35 Hakka R2.
      I've never heard of anyone using low profile winters before.

      Heck, I'm even antsy about using 20's during the summer

      The old rule of thumb is, and it IS accurate, that for the best winter (snow & ice tranction) you want the smallest compatible rim for your car, with the narrowest compatible tires.

      Since 18" rims are the smallest that fit over the brakes on my S90 that's what I had to use. I also went with a narrower than stock 225/50R18's for the best possible winter performance.

      The Continental ContiVikingContact 7's have been fantastic in this configuration.

    7. #75
      Junior Member mattlach's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CedarMtn View Post
      Indirect TPMS has been around for a while - my last car had it. My car previous to that had direct TPMS and as a result I will avoid a car with direct TPMS (unless theyíve improved the systems). Why? Because in the old direct TPMS systems you had to reprogram the car every time you changed wheels. The memory (at least in my car) could not handle more than 5 IDís (4 wheels and the spare) so you had to make a trip to the dealer when you changed to winters. And back then, sensors were harder to find and expensive. It just seemed like a blatant way for manufacturers to drive customers to the dealer. I mean, how hard would it be to allow the TPMS monitoring system to hold two sets of wheels or have a mode to read and detect new sensors? Nowadays you can buy compatible aftermarket sensors and TPMS ID readers and Laptop connectors to do your own programming but it is just too much hassle. Further, the batteries last only as long as the typical life of a tire so itís one more wear item to think about.

      More importantly, my own experience with Indirect TPMS was very positive. I got a few false warnings while city driving (just a handful) but that was usually after I pumped up a tire and forgot to re-set the system. I got one real city driving warning and it turned out to be a nail in the tire. I got one high speed highway warning and it gave me enough time to get to the right shoulder before the tire disintegrated. Itís a simpler and superior system to just use the existing ABS system to indirectly monitor tire inflation, IMO. Btw, my car didnít have a spare but thatís another topic...

      That was not the experience I had on any of my cars with direct TPMS.

      2001 Saab 9-5 Aero
      2004 Saab 9-5 Aero
      2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4
      2009 Volvo S80

      Whenever I swapped the wheels every winter/summer changeover they just auto-detected the sensors in the new wheels and continued working. No special tools or dealership visits needed.

      What car did you have this issue on?

      My biggest gripe with the direct TPMS was that the sensors were expensive when I needed to buy them for my second set of wheels.

    8. #76
      Junior Member pocholin's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by hourglass View Post
      https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=44

      To me personally, it just feels like they are being cheap and try to cost cut the TPMS sensors out. All the cheap cars have Indirect TPMS because it is cheaper to do (require no additional sensors and just few lines of code) to comply with the law.

      It has few shortcomings, for example, you will never know the exact pressure in each wheels, during season changes all the tire will inflate/deflate at the same rate which means the system will see all wheel speed the same and not alert if all wheels are over or under-inflated.

      Certain manufacturers restricting IDs to 5 is probably their attempt to get more money from you. The few cars I owned all are able to store 2 sets of TPMS. One car even has a fall back that if no sensors are detected, it will use Indirect TPMS to monitor the wheels.
      One of Volvo's success is cutting costs. They're launching vehicles with lots of technology but it isn't necessarily the latest and greatest, nor the most refined but it gets the job done. Downsizing to three engine configurations in the US has been great to standardize parts and training for their technicians.

      Sent from my XZ2 Compact using Tapatalk
      2017 V90 CC T6- Luxury pkg with full color paint Maple Brown with blond interior, convenience pkg, B&W, HUD, four-C. Racechip GTS.

    9. #77
      Junior Member mattlach's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by pocholin View Post
      One of Volvo's success is cutting costs. They're launching vehicles with lots of technology but it isn't necessarily the latest and greatest, nor the most refined but it gets the job done. Downsizing to three engine configurations in the US has been great to standardize parts and training for their technicians.
      Yeah, to survive in any business you have to watch the bottom line.

      This is especially true with in automotive industry with its razor thin margins.

    10. #78
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      Quote Originally Posted by mattlach View Post
      That was not the experience I had on any of my cars with direct TPMS.

      2001 Saab 9-5 Aero
      2004 Saab 9-5 Aero
      2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4
      2009 Volvo S80

      Whenever I swapped the wheels every winter/summer changeover they just auto-detected the sensors in the new wheels and continued working. No special tools or dealership visits needed.

      What car did you have this issue on?

      My biggest gripe with the direct TPMS was that the sensors were expensive when I needed to buy them for my second set of wheels.
      2nd gen Highlander Hybrid. The sensors were about $175 per wheel at the time too. I bit the bullet and bought a set for my winter wheels before I found out that there was no way for the system to register 9 idís. Many people would just put a piece of black tape to hide the TPMS warning light vs buying the sensors. I didnít own it very long though - it was great for hauling the kids around the city but terrible as an ďSUVĒ - towing and doing light off road stuff.

      Strictly my opinion: Indirect TPMS is superior and the fact that it is less expensive is a side benefit. An indirect system uses components that are already on a car. Itís simpler and it works. Within the thresholds that trigger a direct TPMS warning, there is minimal difference between when an indirect system would detect a change in speed for an individual wheel and trigger a warning. The main negatives are when the car is not moving. Eg: No direct read of tire pressures (which some direct systems provide). And you need to remember to reset the system after you change, rotate, or inflate tires. I always keep my tires in good shape and check pressures fairly regularly (have a 20V Dewalt inflator in my garage). And again, my experience with a high speed indirect TPMS warning was favourable. It warned me before any noticeable vibration was felt, allowing me to move over two lanes to the shoulder before the tire failed.

    11. #79
      Junior Member mattlach's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CedarMtn View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by mattlach View Post
      That was not the experience I had on any of my cars with direct TPMS.

      2001 Saab 9-5 Aero
      2004 Saab 9-5 Aero
      2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4
      2009 Volvo S80

      Whenever I swapped the wheels every winter/summer changeover they just auto-detected the sensors in the new wheels and continued working. No special tools or dealership visits needed.

      What car did you have this issue on?

      My biggest gripe with the direct TPMS was that the sensors were expensive when I needed to buy them for my second set of wheels.
      2nd gen Highlander Hybrid. The sensors were about $175 per wheel at the time too. I bit the bullet and bought a set for my winter wheels before I found out that there was no way for the system to register 9 id’s. Many people would just put a piece of black tape to hide the TPMS warning light vs buying the sensors. I didn’t own it very long though - it was great for hauling the kids around the city but terrible as an “SUV” - towing and doing light off road stuff.

      Strictly my opinion: Indirect TPMS is superior and the fact that it is less expensive is a side benefit. An indirect system uses components that are already on a car. It’s simpler and it works. Within the thresholds that trigger a direct TPMS warning, there is minimal difference between when an indirect system would detect a change in speed for an individual wheel and trigger a warning. The main negatives are when the car is not moving. Eg: No direct read of tire pressures (which some direct systems provide). And you need to remember to reset the system after you change, rotate, or inflate tires. I always keep my tires in good shape and check pressures fairly regularly (have a 20V Dewalt inflator in my garage). And again, my experience with a high speed indirect TPMS warning was favourable. It warned me before any noticeable vibration was felt, allowing me to move over two lanes to the shoulder before the tire failed.
      I haven't made up my mind yet on this topic.

      I like that it is cheaper, but I guess I haven't built up my comfort level regarding trusting the system yet.

      For instance, when I put my summers on my 20"'s I inflated them to my desired pressure and pressed the training button in the car status menu.

      I'm not sure if it did it's thing. The button has been greyed out ever since, so if I wanted to re-train it now, I couldn't. And that was back in April.

      It is unclear to me how it works. Is it greyed out due to a bug, or does it only allow you to retrain the system if it senses a change?

      I have to say, I liked how my 2011 Saab 9-5 gave me the actual psi reading for each wheel in the dash, and I have kind of missed that ever since. My previous daily driver, my S80 T6 had sensors in the wheels, but it would only flash a tire pressure warming light if one of them was low. It wouldn't tell me the actual pressure or which tire was low.

      In the grand scheme of things - however - I spent most of my time as a driver without any TPMS at all, and that never caused me a problem, so I am not that concerned.

      I am a little bit of a data geek though. My philosophy had always been to have as much information as possible, and I've always loved cockpit-style driving designs that present you with all that information in an as ergonomic fashion as possible. I hate modern minimalist designs like the Tesla Model 3 that hide everything from you. The Apple approach of oversimplifying everything and hiding the details is one I have great disdain for.

      After all, the devil's in the details.

    12. #80
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      Quote Originally Posted by mattlach View Post
      I haven't made up my mind yet on this topic.

      I like that it is cheaper, but I guess I haven't built up my comfort level regarding trusting the system yet.

      For instance, when I put my summers on my 20"'s I inflated them to my desired pressure and pressed the training button in the car status menu.

      I'm not sure if it did it's thing. The button has been greyed out ever since, so if I wanted to re-train it now, I couldn't. And that was back in April.

      It is unclear to me how it works. Is it greyed out due to a bug, or does it only allow you to retrain the system if it senses a change?

      I have to say, I liked how my 2011 Saab 9-5 gave me the actual psi reading for each wheel in the dash, and I have kind of missed that ever since. My previous daily driver, my S80 T6 had sensors in the wheels, but it would only flash a tire pressure warming light if one of them was low. It wouldn't tell me the actual pressure or which tire was low.

      In the grand scheme of things - however - I spent most of my time as a driver without any TPMS at all, and that never caused me a problem, so I am not that concerned.

      I am a little bit of a data geek though. My philosophy had always been to have as much information as possible, and I've always loved cockpit-style driving designs that present you with all that information in an as ergonomic fashion as possible. I hate modern minimalist designs like the Tesla Model 3 that hide everything from you. The Apple approach of oversimplifying everything and hiding the details is one I have great disdain for.

      After all, the devil's in the details.
      Like you, I've spent more time in cars without TPMS - so it's a nice to have, not a need to have. In 40 plus years of driving, I've only had a handful of flats and only two on the highway at high speeds (one being with the indirect TPMS system). Honestly, when I got the dash warning, my first instinct was it must be a glitch as I didn't feel any lurch or vibration. But about a second later, I felt a little drag - so quickly moved over to the shoulder before the tire disintegrated. So the system worked well.

    13. #81
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      I prefer the direct pressure readout system. If it's 20F (as it is here pretty much from Dec through March) I'd prefer not having to walk around the car with a pressure gage, wearing lined gloves and fumbling with the stem cover, to see if I should top off the tires. The pressure system on my past cars have been very reliable and matched the readings on my hand-held. Both systems are probably equally good at signally a tire event.

    14. #82
      Junior Member 855RI's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by SteveP View Post
      As for tires, I'm not wanting to leave the 19" P-Zeros on our new to us S90, but I don't want to fork out a fortune for winter wheels. Considering Vredestein Wintrac Xtreme S. They're well rated here and Tire Rack.
      I am in the same boat... do not want to leave the all seasons on the car for the winter. Was considering these tires as well, since I don't expect to be driving much. Did you move forward with purchase?

      Options seem slim for the standard tire size on the R-Design (255/40/R19)...
      Current: 2000 V70R, 2020 S90 T6 R-Design P*
      Past: 1997 850R, 1997 850, 1996 850 Turbo
      Other: 2013 Acura TSX
      Retired: 2018 GMC Terrain, 2012 VW Jetta, 2010 VW Passat, 2007 Honda Accord, 2000 Ford Ranger, 1997 Pontiac Firebird
      IG: swedesteeds

    15. #83
      Quote Originally Posted by VLD1 View Post
      I prefer the direct pressure readout system.
      serioiusly, this +100. I actually had to buy another tire pressure gauge and put it in the car after getting a flat (in Mexico) of all places. this new fangled using-computers-to-cut-cost measure is just a WEE too much/too advanced for real life use.

    16. #84
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      Quote Originally Posted by tonyc View Post
      serioiusly, this +100. I actually had to buy another tire pressure gauge and put it in the car after getting a flat (in Mexico) of all places. this new fangled using-computers-to-cut-cost measure is just a WEE too much/too advanced for real life use.
      I can live with the current system. But PLEASE Volvo, don't go the route of Mercedes and switch to rock-hard riding run flat tires with no spare. One of the most stupid concepts in my opinion.

    17. #85
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      I do run 18" Nokian Hakkapellita, I have used them for many years. 18" motegi wheel ET40. If you are in real snow or handpicked snow roads you really DO need a better tire than an all season, we really just don't use the all seasons here in Maine unless you live in a city area and never venture inland....
      Current garage ....2017 S90 Inscription tint, split tailpipes, KC Design rear sway, 2018 Mercedes S63 Renntech tune 673 h.p., 2012 Sprinter van, 2002 Boxster S. I am a car nut from WAAAAY back! Previously 2014 A8 SWB 4.0, Golf R, 2013 E550, 2012 S550, 2010 E350 wagon, 2008 Audi S8. 39 Buick, 33 Nash coupe, 66 Comet, 67 Fairlane and many more.

    18. #86
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      Quote Originally Posted by mattlach View Post
      What wheels are you looking at if I may ask?

      On my previous Volvo's (and Saabs) I have always shopped craigslist for older factory wheels for winters, but this is obviously not going to work on this car with its enormous minimum wheels size of 18". There will be no downsizing for Winter wheels on this car :/

      I have been looking at the 18" offerings on tirerack, I figured I could buy a wheel and tire package there, but man I hate the look of aftermarket rims. Is it even possible to stick Volvo centercaps on any of them? I don't want my nice Volvo to look like some fartcan Honda.

      I have never been interested in 3rd party aftermarket wheels before, so I don't even know where else to look than Tirerack. Anyone have any ideas?

      The idea here is not to get some crazy expensive BBS-like aftermarket bling wheel, just something basic, relatively inexpensive, that won't bend too easily in winter potholes.

      I'd even go with steelies, but it has been suggested to me they are a bit heavy in 18" and really could throw off the dynamics of the car.

      I'd really appreciate some recommendations.
      Look for the Motegi in 18", they are about 200.00 per wheel and yes I got some great Volvo center cap peel and stick emblems on the center caps, great look and for like 20.00 a deal. I don't believe there are steel wheels that big for this application. You could try a local recycling yard, they use the Hollander Interchange manual to cross index what will fir for you...18" is the minimum for my T6.
      Current garage ....2017 S90 Inscription tint, split tailpipes, KC Design rear sway, 2018 Mercedes S63 Renntech tune 673 h.p., 2012 Sprinter van, 2002 Boxster S. I am a car nut from WAAAAY back! Previously 2014 A8 SWB 4.0, Golf R, 2013 E550, 2012 S550, 2010 E350 wagon, 2008 Audi S8. 39 Buick, 33 Nash coupe, 66 Comet, 67 Fairlane and many more.

    19. #87
      Junior Member SteveP's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 855RI View Post
      I am in the same boat... do not want to leave the all seasons on the car for the winter. Was considering these tires as well, since I don't expect to be driving much. Did you move forward with purchase?

      Options seem slim for the standard tire size on the R-Design (255/40/R19)...
      I didn't. Picked up 4 almost new Hakkapelitas for my 19" wheels for $500.

      Bring on the snow!

      Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
      His: 2018 S90 Momentum Osium Gray/Black Hers: 2015.5 V60 Premiere E-Drive Silver/Black
      Gone But Not Forgotten: 2006 XC90 V8 Silver/Black, 2010 C30 T5 R Design Passion Red, 2004 V70R Ti/Gobi, 2004 S80, 2001 V70, 740GLE and too many 240s to count!
      To R is Still Human!

    20. #88
      Junior Member mattlach's Avatar
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      I just realized I never posted back here with what I wound up doing tire wise.

      My original plan had been to find another set of 18's (the smallest that will fit over the brakes) but that didn't quite happen.

      Then I started looking for a set of 19's for my summers, with the plan of using the 18's the car came with for the winters.

      I was never successful in finding a set of 19's but I eventually found a set of 20" takeoffs from an XC90. I was wary at first, as that's not a lot of sidewall for our crappy roads around here, but in the end when I saw them I kind of fell in love, so I kept them






      I went with 255/35R20 tires for the summers.

      I used to use Continental's ExtremeContact DW summer tires on my old S80, and was VERY impressed with their wet performance (you literally cannot make them lose traction when it is warm and wet). On the downside the rubber formulation in them made them a little hard and slippery when it got cold (as expected because they are summer tires). This limited my flexibility around tire changeover time. If October is colder than expected, and I haven't had a chance to change them yet, it gets a little slippery.

      So, instead I went with the Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, which is supposed to have the same wet performance, but in a softer rubber compound to make it ab "all season". They have been just as good in the wet as the DW's, and I haven't noticed any real compromises when it is hot. They do offer me a lot more flexibility at changeover time though, which is very welcome. I liked them enough that I put the same tire (in 205/55R16) on my 2000 V70 Wagon.

      For the winters I decided to use the 18" wheels that came with the car.

      The factory tire size was 245/45R18, but the rule of thumb when it comes to winter tires is that you want them narrower than your summers, to make them better able to dig into the snow. I did some research on rolling diameter sizes to keep things even, while getting a narrower tire. In the end I landed on 225/50R18's. As desired they are narrower, and they are only 0.7% taller rolling radius than stock, which is tiny enough to be a good match, yet also gives a tiny bit more sidewall, and I'll take all the sidewall I can get in the winter here.

      I did a ton of research on the winter tires. Swedish car magazines do more in depth winter tire reviews than here, so I got some online subscriptions that allowed me to see the tire reviews. They tend to prefer studded tires over there, but that makes no sense for Boston winters which are usually just cold and wet, and only rarely require driving on actual snow. Of the studless offerings, one tire kept getting recommended highly in repeated reviews, and that was the VikingContact 7.

      Continental used to sell two different studless winter tires here. The milder winter Alpine Winter tire, the ContiWinterContact TS (the latest one sold here I think was the TS810) and the harsher winter climate VikingContact series based in part on the technology acquired by Continental when they bought Swedish Gislaved tires. The Alpine winter tires always drove more like an all season, quiet and smooth, but with better cold and snow winter traction. The Nordic winter tires always did better in the ice and snow, but at the cost of noise, vibration and squirrely performance on dry and wet roads.

      This used to be the case, but with the latest gen of the VikingContact, the VikingContact 7, Continental felt like they had made enough progress improving the comfort and driveability of the more aggressive Nordic studless winters, that they didn't think it made sense to sell the Alpine oriented TS series here anymore. So I decided to try them in 225/50R18 on my S90. I thoght they were great last winter. Highly recommend them. They were maybe slightly louder than the all season Pirellis the car came with on the highway, but only barely. They were composed both on dry roads and in the snow. Highly recommend them. Just like with the summers, I liked these tires enough that I also put them on my 2000 Wagon (in 185/65R15).


      So anyway, the TLDR version is this:


      For the S90 I wound up with :

      Summers: Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 in 255/35R20
      Winters: Continental VikingContact 7 225/50R18


      And for my 2000 Wagon I wound up with:

      Summers: Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 in 205/55R16
      Winters: Continental VikingContact 7 185/65R15


      I'm very happy with this combination.

      Hope this helps someone else.
      Last edited by mattlach; 10-17-2020 at 03:26 PM.

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      By mike_c70 in forum R Forum (2004-2007)
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