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    Thread: Front End Clunk

    1. #36
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ScottishBrick View Post
      Hutchinson. Itís the stock and oe on the p80s.
      All I see available at FCPEuro are the bushings for the P80s, not the entire mount.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

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    3. #37
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      All I see available at FCPEuro are the bushings for the P80s, not the entire mount.
      FCP doesnít carry that mount weirdly. Gotta look elsewhere.
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 197k - K24/Greens/Do88 IC/SMF & P2R Clutch/DW300C/H&R/Bilstein TC/Delrin/316mm & 308mm Brakes - SteveO Tuned
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    4. #38
      Member Antherzoll's Avatar
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      Both designs are junk. I just buy the cheapest mount and replace often.

      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

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    6. #39
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Antherzoll View Post
      Both designs are junk. I just buy the cheapest mount and replace often.

      Yeah, I suspect that's the case. At least with the round design, you can possibly replace the bushing.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    7. #40
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Get a Hutchinson round one or its shell and punch out (or during install) rotate the bushing 90 so it acts as a rubber torque resisting mount not a vertical vibration mount. Itíll vibrate less at idle and help the shifts feel better. I did this to my moms car to bandaid old motor mounts until I can get to them this fall.

      PN 8649597
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 197k - K24/Greens/Do88 IC/SMF & P2R Clutch/DW300C/H&R/Bilstein TC/Delrin/316mm & 308mm Brakes - SteveO Tuned
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 291k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 238k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 212k - Sisters

    8. #41
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ScottishBrick View Post
      Get a Hutchinson round one or its shell and punch out (or during install) rotate the bushing 90 so it acts as a rubber torque resisting mount not a vertical vibration mount. Itíll vibrate less at idle and help the shifts feel better. I did this to my moms car to bandaid old motor mounts until I can get to them this fall.

      PN 8649597
      Thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to give it a try.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    9. #42
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Had a new rear engine mount installed today. Not much change to the vibration while accelerating.

      Engine is definitely smoother starting and shutting off. No more crunching sounds. No real change to the overall NVH characteristics.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    10. #43
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Well, an alignment didn't change anything, but really didn't expect it to. Starting to get high frequency vibrations at other speeds. Really feels like a bearing or maybe a CV joint. But, if it was a bearing, I'd expect it to howl pretty bad. LF bearing and axle are new. RF bearing is original. Seems like the vibration was there before the LF axle was replaced, but after the bearing was. Replacing the RF axle didn't change as anything.

      If I had a truck, I'd think a U-joint was starting to go.
      Last edited by Exocet; 09-21-2019 at 06:08 PM.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    11. #44
      Junior Member LukeFlynn's Avatar
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      Buy a brand new GKN or Volvo axle. If they are too expensive find a decent one at the junkyard.

      I’ve tried almost every aftermarket axle available and they all suck, tolerances are wack. Same goes for aftermarket rebuilds of OE.

      I’ve heard Raxles is good but they are still expensive.
      '09 S40 2.4i
      '04 XC70 2.5T
      '04 S60R M66

    12. #45
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Ordered an old style (round) upper torque mount from eEuroparts (Hutchinson #524824). Received the new style mount (#538850). Now have to deal with returns. FCPEuro didn't have it.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    13. #46
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LukeFlynn View Post
      Buy a brand new GKN or Volvo axle. If they are too expensive find a decent one at the junkyard.

      Iíve tried almost every aftermarket axle available and they all suck, tolerances are wack. Same goes for aftermarket rebuilds of OE.

      Iíve heard Raxles is good but they are still expensive.
      IIRC, the vibration was there before I replaced the LF axle (which fixed the clunk on acceleration). LF bearing was replaced prior to that (which fixed the noise when turning). Vibration definitely there before/after replacing the RF axle. So, not ready to blame the axles, yet. Still have the original axles, just in case. Only original part remaining in the front end is the RF wheel bearing.

      My Indie is suggesting replacing the RF bearing first, before looking at the LF axle and bearing again.
      Last edited by Exocet; 10-07-2019 at 04:39 PM.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    14. #47
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Did the RF bearing, no change. Going to pull a couple of ounces of transmission fluid and send it in for analysis to make sure I'm not dealing with a differential or transmission issue.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    15. #48
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Replaced the aftermarket LF axle with the old OEM axle, and the vibration issues appear to be gone. I'll give it a week of driving to be sure.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    16. #49
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      That's promising!
      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      Replaced the aftermarket LF axle with the old OEM axle, and the vibration issues appear to be gone. I'll give it a week of driving to be sure.
      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    17. #50
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      What grease did you use to repack the CV boot?

    18. #51
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      What grease did you use to repack the CV boot?
      Whatever was in the GKN boot kit.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    19. #52
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      Whatever was in the GKN boot kit.
      Oh, I see. If it says "MOS2" on the pack and does not have consistency of a sick baby's snots then the grease is wrong. All the GKN kits I had were equipped with the grease for the outer CV joint, not tripods. For tripods you want a different grease, like GKN 1476-051. I got VW G052186A3, which says "tripods", too, however it looks a bit less watery, so I don't know how that would affect the tripod. Time will tell, but MOS2 GKN grease cost me two perfectly fine axles...

      Don't put MOS2 grease into tripods, it kills tripods instantly.

    20. #53
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      Oh, I see. If it says "MOS2" on the pack and does not have consistency of a sick baby's snots then the grease is wrong. All the GKN kits I had were equipped with the grease for the outer CV joint, not tripods. For tripods you want a different grease, like GKN 1476-051. I got VW G052186A3, which says "tripods", too, however it looks a bit less watery, so I don't know how that would affect the tripod. Time will tell, but MOS2 GKN grease cost me two perfectly fine axles...

      Don't put MOS2 grease into tripods, it kills tripods instantly.
      Wonderful. It was a bit thicker than the old grease, but the old grease had 160k miles on it. Dark gray. So, I suspect it's the wrong type (molybdenum disulfide?). It is what it is at this point.
      Last edited by Exocet; 11-27-2019 at 10:38 PM.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    21. #54
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      So, I suspect it's the wrong type (molybdenum disulfide?). It is what it is at this point.
      Yeah, wrong grease. MOS2 particles wear needle bearings out. The grease itself is too thick and does not provide good lubrication for needles. It also does not withstand a higher working temperatures typical for the needle bearings.

      I don't know why GKN puts MOS2 grease in the kit. Probably, for all of us to go out shopping for the new GKN axles.

    22. #55
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      The grease in my kit was:

      GKN Bru-Moly CE 1/2

      Poking around online there's also GKN CV Joint grease, that has a different part number. I also found a patent from 1995 for a tripod grease with moly in it. Lots of discussions in various forums.

      Strange that GKN would sell a boot kit specifically for a tripod joint with an incorrect grease. But, at the same time sell a grease for tripod joints.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

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