2010 V50 T5 AWD M66 first Volvo, first manual
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    1. #1
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      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66 first Volvo, first manual

      Hi,

      I recently joined the forum as I just purchased my first Volvo. Our family had a single car and I wanted to get a car for myself that met the following criteria:

      • Same or larger than our 2014 Mazda3
      • AWD for the winter
      • Manual - I have never driven manual before
      • Leather seats
      • Fun to drive
      • Something I can tinker with (oil change, replace some worn parts) Since we have the second car I am OK if this isn't driveable for a few days


      Originally I was looking for something like a Subaru Legacy GT or VW Wagon. I ended up stumbling across what appeared to me as a fairly well maintained V50 T5 AWD.

      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66
      207K KM
      Passion Red (612)
      Quartz interrior (I think that is the colour name)

      I am not sure about all the options on the car but it does have the following (some may be standard, forgive my ignorance):
      • Heated Seats
      • Dual climate control
      • Auto-dimming mirror
      • Leather seats
      • Those funky auto-turning headlights
      • High-Performance Audio (USB, Aux-in, Sat radio)
      • Rain Sensor wipers
      • BLISS, Heated and Auto folding mirrors


      It seems to drive nicely, I have had a few more experienced manual drivers try it out for me. I am still learning but can get around fine so far.

      Some cosmetic upgrades I have or will purchase shortly:

      • Rear spoiler (Volvo)
      • Mud Flaps (Volvo)
      • License Plate Cover (Volvo)
      • Rear license plate mount (rusted)
      • Replace missing rear tow hook cover
      • Skid plate (engine cover, I purchased a plastic one for now. The car did not come with one which feels very bad especially with the salt here in the winter).




      I would like some input as to how I can help maintain this car, preventative maintenance etc.

      Timing belt was changed at 195K KM in Nov 2018 according to the sticker.
      Oil was lat changed at 203K and looks clean still.

      Items I think need replacing:

      • Engine Air Filter (Done, the old one was very dirty)
      • Cabin Air Filter (Not looking forward to this after looking at how it is done, should receive it next week).
      • I think the boost tubing needs to be replaced as the rubber parts are starting to shed rubber when rubbed by hand.
      • The boost hard pipe is corroded, not sure how cosmetic this is or if it should be replaced as well (do88? with new intercooler)
      • I think I may replace all the coolant tubes as well to silicone (IPD?)
      • Spark plugs? Or should I wait until I think something is wrong?
      • Passenger side motor mount is soft/squishy and needs replacing. I will purchase all 3.
      • There is some kind of shielding over the steering that is completely rusted out
      • The car came with "new" brake rotors/pads and tires (Uniroyal...) I took a look at the brake fluid and there is clearly some particles in there so they did not flush the system. I will do a brake flush.
      • Oil + Filter I will change



      Pics of the car: https://photos.app.goo.gl/K6PazUcRuoL7ns1z8


      Thanks!

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    3. #2
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      where are you? i have a clean used boost hardpipe that i got from erievovo.com for $50, make me an offer. i also have a silicone boost tubing kit i got from IPD(121339), never opened pkg, as I decided to do something different, $100. also have an IPD TCV kit, in unopened pkg, for $75. do ALL the motor mounts at the same time. do the plugs, its cheap maintenance.
      1994 850 wagon 5spd N/A
      2007 V50 T5 AWD 6spd

    4. #3
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      I'll send a PM davidw, thanks for suggestions. I am definitely interested in those parts.

      I am located in Ottawa, Canada. I'll update my profile as well.

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    6. #4
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      JMHO -- when you flush the brakes, also flush the clutch slave cylinder. Also IMO, changing out the power steering fluid is a good idea.

      The upper radiator hose on these cars has a bad design and failure can result in engine-destroying overheating. I don't think you have to go silicone, but you should probably replace it with something if it hasn't been done yet.

      Keep a sharp eye on your axle boots, maybe you can repack if any of them get torn.

    7. #5
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      Thanks bbrages,

      I've ordered some power steering fluid and will look up how to do that.

      Regarding the clutch slave, I think I have seen some posts here about that. I will definitely do it.

      I will take a look at the axle boots as well.

      I have a nifty OBD-II device that I could program to read various things, would it be possible to detect this coolant failure? or is it such a failure that does not trip any sensors?

    8. #6
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Oh, it trips the sensor all right. Only, after the engine is toast. Seriously, if you have the plastic-tee type upper hose, replace it. It's hard to see through the forest of stuff behind the airbox at the back of the engine, but it is visible.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    9. #7
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      Ahh, that is no good. Is it that the overheat happens too quickly?

      I wonder if a simple buzzer with a microcontroller on the canbus lines to monitor temperature ourselves could warn us earlier?

    10. #8
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Yes, aluminum engine blocks do not tolerate loss of cooling. This is true of all makes.

      The tee generally starts to split and weep a small amount of coolant, but nobody ever notices it at that point. Eventually, the split widens, and pressure in the coolant system finishes the job, with catastrophic results.

      I don't see how a sensor can address this. Unless you plan to wire up a "Engine toasted" light. Spend the money and effort on a silicone upper radiator hose, from Viva, IPD, or your other favorite retailer.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    11. #9
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      Thanks tmtalpey,

      I will check if my hoses were already replaced (or see how they look). I will probably end up getting the IPD silicone hose.

      I also came across this thread here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...t-Level-Sensor

    12. #10
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      I am not a fan of modifying the coolant tank because I picture the mod failing and causing the coolant loss it is supposed to warn against.

      I replaced my upper radiator hose with a Gates 24602 ($12 at Rockauto) that has an improved design (the stock photo doesn't show this) that will not crack in the same way as the original tee.

    13. #11
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      Here is a thread with a pic of the Gates: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...-radiator-hose

    14. #12
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      Thanks bbrages.

      I agree with modding the tank itself, I will take my time and see if perhaps there is a way to make a hose with a sensor build in somehow. In the meantime I will change the hose, but even with a new hose I would feel safer with something to monitor the coolant. Seems silly we have a low windshield wiper fluid sensor but nothing for coolant. Ahh well.

      The first actual issue presented itself yesterday on my car. Yesterday it rained, I knew about the sunroof drains and I did notice a little bit of water near the OBD-II connector side of the driver foot well. Well after reading more, I decided to check the read seats and wouldn't you know the floor is completely soaked in the rear.

      I will follow the existing threads on fixing the tubing / unblocking it. I will also be removing the carpet or something to get it dried out.

    15. #13
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Nice find! I've been scouring Canadian listings for V50 AWD M66's this year, and finally ended up with a cheap number from Quebec. It needed a windshield, and I've gone down the rabbit hole and the cylinder head is coming off. Glad yours only has the minor sunroof drain issue. When I bought my S40, the rear footwell was a swimming pool which got me a good discount for a few hours of work replacing the tubing and pulling up the carpet to clear out the water. No electrical damage, thank goodness.

      I'm not sure if it's the Canadian climate, but the upper radiator hose T has seemed in perfect condition on all 3 of my cars, but will be replacing it on this one just to be safe.

      Hope you enjoy it, and possibly see you around! We're up in the Ottawa area every now and again.

    16. #14
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      Thanks, LittleRedRidingHood

      I followed your post about your find in Quebec, looks nice! I paid quite a bit more for mine. I was in Quebec City a couple of weekends ago, my parents live there. I noticed they have a huge number of Volvos there compared to Ottawa (at least in the area I was in).

      I'll be heading outside now to assess the water damage and maybe replace the cabin air filter while I'm out there.

    17. #15
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      Quebec is the mecca for manual transmission cars, also they sell the most base models there too or so I was told

    18. #16
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      Last night I took the A-Pillars off to assess the sunroof drain issue. Obviously there are tons of threads about how/why and what to do so I will just document here what I saw and plan to do.

      Driver side is the most wet, the drain hose was completely disconnected from the coupling going through the firewall. The passenger side was loose but still connected, appears that the nozzle is clogged (one going through the firewall).

      With the driver side hose reconnected water flows outside freely.

      I tried to clear the passenger side, but no luck. Water backs up the tube and leaks down the A-pillar. Some water does make it outside but I think it is a slow trickle.

      I took the wheel well cover off on the passenger side (I hadn't realized yet you can't access the bottom of the drain from here). There was a ton of debris in the wheel well, cleaned it out. I will take the headliner out partially tomorrow to check the connection at the sunroof itself.

      I think because the hoses are loose and feel old/not great I am just going to replace them with some new vinyl tubing as mentioned in other threads. I haven't decided if I will try to cut those connectors through the firewall to allow more water to pass through and not block as easily, or if I will just run the tub down there as some have done. Again, the other posts are quite detailed and I think it has been done both ways, I just need to decide on a solution.

      So tonight/tomorrow I will be removing the carpet/seats to clean and dry it, and install that new hose. I will remove those connectors through the firewall and assess whether I keep them (and make the opening bigger) or just run the hose down there.

      My car did have a funny smell when I purchased it, but I didn't immediately think of mildew/mold, but this could be the source! I thought maybe it was just a weird cleaner they used on it or leather treatment.

    19. #17
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      Today removed both front seats and rear bench to get access to remove the carpet. It was soaking wet, as I park with a slight decline towards the rear of the car.

      I carpet shampooed the foam and top of all 3 pieces and they are hang drying in the garage (raining now outside).

      Thanks to everyone for the great posts about replacing the sunroof drains. I replaced the passager side with some vinyl tubing. For now, I am going to just cut it a bit longer and not replace those L couplings in the firewall. I will see how it goes. I was able to remove the carpet without fully detaching the passenger seat, just tilted it forwards/back to remove the rear/front carpeting. I did decouple the electrical connection from the seat, but not the individual wires (there was enough slack to tilt the seat and remove the carpet).

      It started to rain, but once it is done I will replace the driver side and see if any water got back into the car.

      Once that is done, I will be replacing the cabin air filter.

    20. #18
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      Today removed both front seats and rear bench to get access to remove the carpet. It was soaking wet, as I park with a slight decline towards the rear of the car.

      I carpet shampooed the foam and top of all 3 pieces and they are hang drying in the garage (raining now outside).

      Thanks to everyone for the great posts about replacing the sunroof drains. I replaced the passager side with some vinyl tubing. For now, I am going to just cut it a bit longer and not replace those L couplings in the firewall. I will see how it goes. I was able to remove the carpet without fully detaching the passenger seat, just tilted it forwards/back to remove the rear/front carpeting. I did decouple the electrical connection from the seat, but not the individual wires (there was enough slack to tilt the seat and remove the carpet).

      It started to rain, but once it is done I will replace the driver side and see if any water got back into the car.

      Once that is done, I will be replacing the cabin air filter.
      Nice work! I'd strongly suggest replacing the cabin air filter while the front seat is still out of the car. That is a luxury you won't often have.

    21. #19
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      Yesterday I replaced the cabin air filter. It was in dire need of changing. I also vacuumed out the filter housing as I could feel some small debris in there.

      My model (as others have seen) has one white plastic wing screw that holds the filter in place, so that part was easy.

      I also installed the OEM mudflaps. In the process, I took out all the wheel well covers, rinsed them and also rinsed inside the wheel wells. There is a bit of rust starting on the front wheel wells ("Repaired" by the place I got the car from) and I noticed that there was tons of mud/dirt right against the metal. I got it all out, used a metal brush and cleaned /primed the area under the wheel to hopefully slow it down.

      My carpets dried outside all day, now they are in the basement under a UV/Grow light and some air filter fans. I think they are pretty dry now. I replaced the driver side tubing as well and tested with some buckets of water on the roof, everything inside stayed dry.

      A friend of mine is going to let me borrow his ozone generator to neutralize any remaining smells in the car+carpets before I fully install them.

    22. #20
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      I also installed the OEM mudflaps. In the process, I took out all the wheel well covers, rinsed them and also rinsed inside the wheel wells. There is a bit of rust starting on the front wheel wells ("Repaired" by the place I got the car from) and I noticed that there was tons of mud/dirt right against the metal. I got it all out, used a metal brush and cleaned /primed the area under the wheel to hopefully slow it down.
      Fender rust seems to be quite an issue in northerly cars. You may want to verify this, but I read that it's not a good idea to leave primer exposed, as it absorbs water whereas paint repels water.

    23. #21
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      Thanks for the tip! I will look into it.

      I actually purchased some paint that should be the same colour as our cars (612 code). I may use that or since you can't see it anyway, maybe some more heavy-duty paint.

    24. #22
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      Maybe buy one of these so I can insert it into the floor and check my water level haha

      https://www.amazon.ca/Alotpower-Mois.../dp/B07DZYPB8S

    25. #23
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      The car is back together after being flooded. New sunroof drain hoses seem to be working.

      This weekend I put everything back together, and now ripped apart the engine bay.

      I installed all 3 new engine mounts (Volvo for driver/passenger and IPD for torque mount)

      I also began installing the new radiator hose kit from IPD. I got the upper one changed and a few others.

      I am blocked at accessing the lower radiator hose, I can't get into there to remove the hose clamp. Does anyone know what I should remove to get access? It seems like the throttle body and hose might need to be removed first?

    26. #24
      Junior Member speedydan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      I also began installing the new radiator hose kit from IPD. I got the upper one changed and a few others.

      I am blocked at accessing the lower radiator hose, I can't get into there to remove the hose clamp. Does anyone know what I should remove to get access? It seems like the throttle body and hose might need to be removed first?
      If I remember correctly I only had to remove the hose going to the throttle body, once that was out of there it gave me plenty of room to swap out the lower rad hose.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD M66
      2005 Honda S2000

    27. #25
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      Thanks speedydan! I will give it a shot this evening.

    28. #26
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      I didn't have to remove anything. It's a challenge to get a wrench on the hose clamp, but not impossible, and once loose, it's straightforward to get the hose off and on. IIRC, I used 1/4" drive extensions and a socket. The approach angle can be tricky.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    29. #27
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      I wasn't able to figure it out without removing the bumper and accessing from the bottom.

      Now I am waiting for IPD to get back to me about a missing coupler for the expansion tank hoses, I am using the old ones for now.

      I refilled the coolant and changed the oil/filter. Took it for a drive and everything seems good! For some reason, there was no crush washer on my oil drain plug.. I did have a new one to install anyway.

      Still on my list:

      Rear spoiler install
      Transmission oil change
      Rear differential oil change
      Haldex oil+filter change

      I have all the parts to do the above, just need free time.

    30. #28
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      Got the Dice set up with Vida and lots of codes.

      Screenshot from 2019-09-22 16-09-20.jpg


      edit:
      I do not have any check engine light or needs service message displayed. I realize I will need to reset all codes and see what comes back. I suspect some things were disconnected while the car battery was installed causing some of these issues.

      The DICE unit I ordered was from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1943...1c0f4c4dHTaME8

      I find it funny that they sell an "A" and "B" grade... I ordered the "A" (green PCB) one for $65.52USD plus $15 for DHL Shipping to Canada (arrived within maybe 3-5 days, can't remember exactly).

      It did come with a DVD, but I just downloaded the virtual machine image posted on the forum and got it working using ubuntu 19.04 and VirtualBox 6.0.
      Last edited by sirloins; 09-23-2019 at 07:08 AM.

    31. #29
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Nice - a VIDA/DICE setup is an invaluable tool to have. I believe when the DTCs are yellow (not red), it means that they have been detected in the past at a low rate of occurrence. It was probably a one time issue as you mentioned.

    32. #30
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      Milage manipulated!

    33. #31
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      I wanted to post an update, and say thanks to those who offered some advice.

      I have not been driving as much as I would have liked, and learning manual has been difficult... Just some irrational fear of rolling backward, or stalling... I am forcing myself to drive it more recently and am getting much more comfortable now. I definitely see why people prefer manual cars. I also love the power compared to our 2014 Mazda3. Most people think I actually bought a new car and have no idea it is 10 years old.

      Since it got cold I haven't touched the haldex unit. It does appear to be working when accelerating on snow.

      I also opted to not install the rear spoiler until I can actually drive manual comfortably.

      I've driven it ~500km to Quebec City and also ~200km to Montreal a couple of times, so I have only put about 3k on it so far with no issues yet.

      I did change the oil back in Sept/Oct. Also, the car smells great after drying everything out and using that ozone machine on it for 30 minutes.

    34. #32
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      Be warned with the sunroof drains as they tend to clog up unless you swap the hoses to 3/8 in tubing like i did on mine. Water hit my CEM and disabled all the electronics in my car, including the started and lots of electrical components as it houses the fuse box under the glove box. Another thing to watch out for thats notorious on P1 platforms is the TCV. Id suggest getting a boost gauge from IPD. This will help definitely in the long run as you can diagnose boost issues and such. If you notice you cannot keep boost steady, or overboost and boost fluctuations, most likely the TCV went bad (turbo control valve). Inexpensive part and is pretty easy to get to once you remove the hardpipe from the turbo to intercooler. Congrats to your new v50 mate!

    35. #33
      Congrats.

      In regards to not rolling backwards down a hill - what I had my kid do was hold the brake and slowly let the clutch out until you feel the vibration in the car change. Once you feel it change, you know you're putting power down to the wheels and won't roll backwards (unless the hill is very steep) and can hold the clutch pedal there and not move it. From there you just move your other foot from the brake to the gas and give it some gogo juice. It's a little harder on the clutch but ensures you won't have issues with rolling backwards.

      As for stalling - I've driven a manual for 14 years, I still do it sometimes, misshift or incomplete shift too. Poop happens.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 02-05-2020 at 07:49 AM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
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    36. #34
      Yeah, about half the cars I've driven over the years have been manual, but the last 2 before the S40 were autos and it's been "like falling off a bike" going back, at times. If you're not smelling burning clutch regularly you're probably doing fine! It'll come with more miles, but as others have said mistakes still happen. I personally like to shift back in to third when I think I'm going from 4th to 5th. You know - to assert dominance.
      06 S40 T5 AWD : DO88 intercooler : 3" EST downpipe : Eibach springs (1" drop) : Magnaflow cat-back exhaust : Hilton stage 2.5 tune

    37. #35
      Global Moderator R-Pow3R3d's Avatar
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      This is a great thread and it sounds like your V50 is being well looked after. The only thing you can do to improve your familiarity with a manual transmission is keep driving. When you think about it, 95% of the drive is a no-brainer. What you're really practicing is the 5% where you're starting from a stop. Avenger gave some good advice about locating the point in the clutch throw where drive force is applied. Once you can get to that spot reliably, then you can improve how quickly you get to that spot, and how smoothly you can make the transition. As long as you're not high-revving when trying to let out the clutch or riding on the clutch for long periods of time, the extra wear should be pretty minimal. Try to relax and not get too worked up about doing it perfectly (Is this like saying "don't think about a purple elephant"? lol). The fact of the matter is that unless you're driving the car every day, you're still going to have that little itching anxiety when you get stopped on an incline and have to start without rolling back too far. The other advice I've heard on this, if you're really worried about rolling back, is using the parking brake to hold you in place while you get transitioned into forward motion. I have actually tried that once or twice or particularly steep hills and it worked well enough. Good luck and enjoy!

      Quote Originally Posted by silent-circuit View Post
      I personally like to shift back in to third when I think I'm going from 4th to 5th. You know - to assert dominance.
      LOL! You gotta let it know who is in control...
      2007 XC90 V8 Sport Passion Red/Off-Black - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner & Idler Pulleys - Spark Plug Replacement - Y-Pipe Replacement
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      VIDA/DICE Owner - SS Lurker Since 2009 - '06-'07 Transmission Valve Body Info - SR/VR Failing Throttle Body - Replica 18" Pegs - Handbrake Mod
      Current Non-Volvo: 2007 VTX 1800 F3, 2002 VT750DC
      Previous: 2006 S60R, 2004 V70R MT 68k

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