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2010 V50 T5 AWD M66 first Volvo, first manual

17K views 199 replies 24 participants last post by  sirloins 
#1 ·
Hi,

I recently joined the forum as I just purchased my first Volvo. Our family had a single car and I wanted to get a car for myself that met the following criteria:

  • Same or larger than our 2014 Mazda3
  • AWD for the winter
  • Manual - I have never driven manual before
  • Leather seats
  • Fun to drive
  • Something I can tinker with (oil change, replace some worn parts) Since we have the second car I am OK if this isn't driveable for a few days

Originally I was looking for something like a Subaru Legacy GT or VW Wagon. I ended up stumbling across what appeared to me as a fairly well maintained V50 T5 AWD.

2010 V50 T5 AWD M66
207K KM
Passion Red (612)
Quartz interrior (I think that is the colour name)

I am not sure about all the options on the car but it does have the following (some may be standard, forgive my ignorance):
  • Heated Seats
  • Dual climate control
  • Auto-dimming mirror
  • Leather seats
  • Those funky auto-turning headlights
  • High-Performance Audio (USB, Aux-in, Sat radio)
  • Rain Sensor wipers
  • BLISS, Heated and Auto folding mirrors

It seems to drive nicely, I have had a few more experienced manual drivers try it out for me. I am still learning but can get around fine so far.

Some cosmetic upgrades I have or will purchase shortly:

  • Rear spoiler (Volvo)
  • Mud Flaps (Volvo)
  • License Plate Cover (Volvo)
  • Rear license plate mount (rusted)
  • Replace missing rear tow hook cover
  • Skid plate (engine cover, I purchased a plastic one for now. The car did not come with one which feels very bad especially with the salt here in the winter).

I would like some input as to how I can help maintain this car, preventative maintenance etc.

Timing belt was changed at 195K KM in Nov 2018 according to the sticker.
Oil was lat changed at 203K and looks clean still.

Items I think need replacing:

  • Engine Air Filter (Done, the old one was very dirty)
  • Cabin Air Filter (Not looking forward to this after looking at how it is done, should receive it next week).
  • I think the boost tubing needs to be replaced as the rubber parts are starting to shed rubber when rubbed by hand.
  • The boost hard pipe is corroded, not sure how cosmetic this is or if it should be replaced as well (do88? with new intercooler)
  • I think I may replace all the coolant tubes as well to silicone (IPD?)
  • Spark plugs? Or should I wait until I think something is wrong?
  • Passenger side motor mount is soft/squishy and needs replacing. I will purchase all 3.
  • There is some kind of shielding over the steering that is completely rusted out
  • The car came with "new" brake rotors/pads and tires (Uniroyal...) I took a look at the brake fluid and there is clearly some particles in there so they did not flush the system. I will do a brake flush.
  • Oil + Filter I will change

Pics of the car: https://photos.app.goo.gl/K6PazUcRuoL7ns1z8

Thanks!
 
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#31 ·
I wanted to post an update, and say thanks to those who offered some advice.

I have not been driving as much as I would have liked, and learning manual has been difficult... Just some irrational fear of rolling backward, or stalling... I am forcing myself to drive it more recently and am getting much more comfortable now. I definitely see why people prefer manual cars. I also love the power compared to our 2014 Mazda3. Most people think I actually bought a new car and have no idea it is 10 years old.

Since it got cold I haven't touched the haldex unit. It does appear to be working when accelerating on snow.

I also opted to not install the rear spoiler until I can actually drive manual comfortably.

I've driven it ~500km to Quebec City and also ~200km to Montreal a couple of times, so I have only put about 3k on it so far with no issues yet.

I did change the oil back in Sept/Oct. Also, the car smells great after drying everything out and using that ozone machine on it for 30 minutes.
 
#32 ·
Be warned with the sunroof drains as they tend to clog up unless you swap the hoses to 3/8 in tubing like i did on mine. Water hit my CEM and disabled all the electronics in my car, including the started and lots of electrical components as it houses the fuse box under the glove box. Another thing to watch out for thats notorious on P1 platforms is the TCV. Id suggest getting a boost gauge from IPD. This will help definitely in the long run as you can diagnose boost issues and such. If you notice you cannot keep boost steady, or overboost and boost fluctuations, most likely the TCV went bad (turbo control valve). Inexpensive part and is pretty easy to get to once you remove the hardpipe from the turbo to intercooler. Congrats to your new v50 mate!
 
#33 · (Edited)
Congrats.

In regards to not rolling backwards down a hill - what I had my kid do was hold the brake and slowly let the clutch out until you feel the vibration in the car change. Once you feel it change, you know you're putting power down to the wheels and won't roll backwards (unless the hill is very steep) and can hold the clutch pedal there and not move it. From there you just move your other foot from the brake to the gas and give it some gogo juice. It's a little harder on the clutch but ensures you won't have issues with rolling backwards.

As for stalling - I've driven a manual for 14 years, I still do it sometimes, misshift or incomplete shift too. Poop happens.
 
#34 ·
Yeah, about half the cars I've driven over the years have been manual, but the last 2 before the S40 were autos and it's been "like falling off a bike" going back, at times. If you're not smelling burning clutch regularly you're probably doing fine! It'll come with more miles, but as others have said mistakes still happen. I personally like to shift back in to third when I think I'm going from 4th to 5th. You know - to assert dominance.
 
#35 ·
This is a great thread and it sounds like your V50 is being well looked after. The only thing you can do to improve your familiarity with a manual transmission is keep driving. When you think about it, 95% of the drive is a no-brainer. What you're really practicing is the 5% where you're starting from a stop. Avenger gave some good advice about locating the point in the clutch throw where drive force is applied. Once you can get to that spot reliably, then you can improve how quickly you get to that spot, and how smoothly you can make the transition. As long as you're not high-revving when trying to let out the clutch or riding on the clutch for long periods of time, the extra wear should be pretty minimal. Try to relax and not get too worked up about doing it perfectly (Is this like saying "don't think about a purple elephant"? lol). The fact of the matter is that unless you're driving the car every day, you're still going to have that little itching anxiety when you get stopped on an incline and have to start without rolling back too far. The other advice I've heard on this, if you're really worried about rolling back, is using the parking brake to hold you in place while you get transitioned into forward motion. I have actually tried that once or twice or particularly steep hills and it worked well enough. Good luck and enjoy!

I personally like to shift back in to third when I think I'm going from 4th to 5th. You know - to assert dominance.
LOL! You gotta let it know who is in control...
 
#36 ·
+1 on Everything , But I wondering Why No one mentioned the Thermostat Housing being the Issue - with the New Hose Kit .. ( Unless that's Part of IPD Hose Kit )

Other Item seemed to Slide right By , TCV Acting Up will usually Degrade to Very Low Boost very Quickly which leaves U in Limp Mode - really - Fast with Possibly a few Days of Squirrel Behavior 1-2 Drives Before Hand ..

Shifting these Fine Mesh Gears on the M66 - is very much like Shifting Motorcycle ( Quick Clutch with Light Feathering with Quick Shift - Not - Fast ) The Gears will just Click Off like running Up through Gears on Motorcycle ..

Many Owners Find themselves doing 3/4 to Full Clutch - to - Shift and that's where it gets Slow and to Hard to be Smooth .. ( Transmission has Slave Cly. which Acts as Limiter ) If the Clutch is Let Out to Fast -
Slave Cly. Fitting WILL Limit Fluid Flow and Clutch will Slip & Heat & Then Burn some If - RPM's are Not Instantly Reduced OR Disengaged !

Like on Very Steep Hill - this may Happen Very Fast ( If You Engage Clutch to Fast to Catch Vehicle - from Rolling Backwards ..) ( Yet U don't want to Roll Backwards ) say someone is Right Behind You ..

Practice Very Steep Hills - Starts , just so U don't have an Issue when Situation Accrues . .

Good to Hear someone is Saving Another Unicorn ~ Volvo

 
#37 ·
Thanks again for all the input guys.

Regarding the sunroof drains, I did swap out the two front tubes with new ones from Lowes (The ones recommended here in another thread). I haven't checked the rear ones, but that seems to be less common of an issue.

IPD has gone silent on me, I was talking to them about my missing couplers for the two long expansion tank hoses. I left the originals in, they don't seem weak but I have new hoses I can't use until I get those couplers. I wasn't in a rush to get them as I am in Canada and sort of told them it would be fine if they shipped them to me in my next order but I recently e-mailed them to order some parts and ask about these couplers and heard nothing back... I do get their marketing e-mails all the time though.

Their hose kit does not include the thermostat housing. I did order a new thermostat just to have on hand, but I will take a look at my current housing and see if I should replace it. It isn't leaking though.

I like the idea of the boost guage just to monitor for issues. I refurbished the hard pipe from the turbo to intercooler last fall, sanded and re-painted it, it looked horrible. I saw some nice options for mounting the guauge but haven't pulled the trigger yet. My A Pillars are white/cream (sand?) and wasn't sure I could install it and make it look nice.

Appreciate the tips on learning manual. I have driven more in the past 2 weeks than probably the first 3 months. I am way more confident now. I was always asking people I knew that drive manual for tips etc, but I think it is hard to explain as a lot seems to be muscle memory to really get smooth at everything.

EngTech: Can you elaborate on the "doing 3/4 clutch to full Clutch"? I push the clutch all the way in, shift then lift the clutch (not sure if it is 1/2 or 3/4, but basically until it is grabbing a bit) leave it for a second or two maybe and then let off. All while starting to give it more gas. I would say RPMs are maybe 1-1.5k (sometimes lower if I let the clutch out a bit too far when trying to get the biting point).


Thanks!
 
#40 · (Edited)
Am I mistaken, or is this not the power steering lines? It seems like a leak, as there was green liquid dripping from the car. I did replace the fluid with CHF 202 back in October.

This is where I think the leak is: View attachment 58829

Here I circled it: Auto part Technology Pipe


Auto part Text Diagram Automotive engine part Line art


If this is the case, seems to me the following parts would be required from above diagram (2, 3, 5, 7, 18, 19, 20, 21):

31360913 x 1 - Pressure hose assembly
30671314 x 2 - Quick couplings for pump side
30680665 x 4 - O-Ring IDA 7.65mm 2 for rack side and 2 for pump side
30680666 x 2 - Other O-rings for rack side

Also some misc fasteners for installing:
989852 x2 - Flange Screw
985993 x2 - Hex Screw
 
#41 ·
Okay - just did this job so lets save you some money:

So some correction here:
#1 - You only need 1 quick coupling for the pump side unless you're getting a second in case you barney up the first one. The second hose (return hose) is just a rubber hose with a squeeze clamp on it.
#2 - You can't use all the same o-ring. The orings for the lines<->steering rack are 30680666 and they come in a pair (a brown and a green one). Then the oring for the pressure line<->pump 30680665 and you only need one (brown with a white line).
#3 - you don't need any of the hex screws or flange screws (depends on weather and road anti-iceing measures they use). If your car has a habit of breaking bolts then sure, otherwise, just a dab of blue loctite and you're good to go.

HOWEVER - according to this photo from FCPEURO - if you order a new hose, it comes with all new orings and the quick coupler already on the lines:


Otherwise - easy peasy job to do. I am quite frankly not even sure how much you'll have to drop the subframe if at all just to drop the lines out.
 
#42 ·
Thank you so much avenger09123 that was great information!

I will try to take some pictures / video of the process for others. I don't have the parts yet, but I should hopefully get them this week.

I have a friend who has offered to let me use his heated garage to do the work in, or also he has a friend with a hydraulic lift that we may be able to use.

I will update once I have done the work, probably in a week or so.
 
#43 · (Edited by Moderator)
Part 1 of steering rack removal


Part 2 of removal and reassembly


Lines and access to them are in the video. SUPER EASY if you follow the DIY. You're gonna need a transmission jack if you do it on a lift, to support the subframe - it's probably 200-300lbs. will take most of the discovery out of it for you.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Thanks for the video, it should help a lot!

I will watch the videos for sure. It does seem from all the pictures I have and the diagrams that I should be able to access the bolts on the steering rack without dropping the subframe if I am just changing the hoses/pipes.

I think in blue below is the connection point on the steering rack?

Auto part Fuel line Automotive fuel system Engine Exhaust manifold

View attachment 59045

As a side note, does anyone know what part number that shield circled in red is? Mine I believe is rusted and rattling a lot, I would maybe think of changing it out if it wasn't too expensive.
 
#45 ·
another way to get moving on a steep hill: pull the ebrake. have it engaged when stopped. then, when its time to go, start using the gas/clutch normally and as you feel the car start to lurch forward just release the ebrake and away you go.

i've driven manual cars all my life and i still use this technique on some occasions. for instance - i was visiting friends in seattle and driving someone else's manual car. i was not used to the clutch engagement yet, and if you've seen the hills in seattle, they can be pretty terrifying in terms of roll-back.
 
#46 · (Edited)
So the heat shield is one piece from right to left on FWD and AWD.
Yes the blue circle is the connections to the steering rack.

I found that on the AWD version, there is NOT enough room to remove the heatshield and hoses without dropping the subframe, at least with common handtools.

However, the FWD might just be able to. There is a torx bolt on the same side of the rack on the left side that holds the lines to the rack itself.
 
#47 ·
Thanks,

I have been looking here for the shield, but I can't figure out which one it is (if any?) https://www.volvooftorontoparts.ca/a/Volvo__V50/42831170__5699621/Heat-shields/GR-333768.html

I will plan to drop the subframe unless my friend helping me has some special tool. He is also letting me use his heated garage which will be nice as my driveway has snow all over it still.

Also thanks for the tips straight6pwr, I did use the handbrake method a couple of times on some steep hills in Montreal. I did forget to lower the handbrake once going out of a parking garage haha...
 
#48 · (Edited)
I found the heat shield part number using Vida. I was using online sites before. I think the reason I couldn't find it is that part number is not found anymore. I'll try searching some more.

The part number for the heat shield I highlighted in red above is 31317371

White Line


Edit: 31317370 seems to be the correct part number as outlined below... and it is on the Toronto Volvo site as well.. damn I might need to get myself checked out. but thanks!
 
#51 ·
I received the pressure hose assembly 31360913

Avenger09123 was correct in that the hose assembly comes with all the o-rings and connectors required. The only thing it does not come with (understandable) is replacement bolts. I decided to order a few replacements as mine were fairly rusted.

There was one bolt, on the lower portion of the steering rack that is not shown in the online pictures. From the video posted above, it is a Torx 20, weird that it isn't shown in the diagram.


Still waiting on the heat shield. I will call the dealer tomorrow and check up on it.

I have time this weekend and will hopefully get it all installed.
 
#52 · (Edited)
I was able to perform the work yesterday with the help of a friend and his warm garage.

I was actually able to complete the whole process with access from above the engine and below. I did not need to drop the subframe at all.

Rough Steps:

  • Jack up the front of the car, we just did the passenger side and put a jack stand under.

  • Remove the front passenger wheel and wheel well liner

  • Remove engine skid plate/protector

  • Remove the hard pipe going to the intercooler, this gave easier access to one of the pipe mounting points on the Rack.

  • I removed the old lines first from the rack, then from the pump. I then removed the 3 other brackets holding them to the frame/rack.

  • Put new lines in, I started from the rack side and its closest mounting bracket, and then the pump and its mounting bracket. I then did the two middle mounting brackets.

  • The hardest bolts to remove and re-insert are right near the AC pump, and face the front of the car. There is almost no room to get in there but we managed. The lines go around the AC compressor in a U shape.

I ran into several problems and ended up taking much longer than expected.

The first problem was the mounting bracket holding the lines to the bottom of the steering rack. This was a T25 and it was very rusted, I had soaked it in bolt remover for a few days but I still stripped the head. We ended up using a metal saw, cut the pipes around the bracket and removed the rubber bushing from it. I then used vice grips on the bolt and it started to turn and got it out. This likely wouldn't have slowed many people down, common rusted fastner removal...

The bigger problem was the high-pressure hose into the rack. It would not come out! We tried hitting it, wiggling it etc. We thought we were very gently but in the end the pipe broke and left a piece inside the steering rack! We tried a bunch of things to get this piece out but ended up having to go out to a store and get a screw extractor just the right size and it worked. We spent the bulk of the time on this problem, trying not to damage the lines/rack and working with limited space from above/below.

Anyway, the car is all back together and working again, thanks for the help guys!

Pictures:

Here is a picture of the new hose. The silver section on the end (with the o-ring) was what ended up getting stuck inside the rack.
White Black Black-and-white Monochrome Monochrome photography


Picture of the rack with the piece stuck inside (top hole has the piece stuck in it, the bottom low-pressure was removed fine):
White Black Monochrome Black-and-white Text


Picture of the mounting bracket that had seized and we cut the pipes around it to remove. You can see the disconnected intercooler pipe:
White Black Monochrome Black-and-white Text


Picture of pump:
White Text Line Monochrome Font
 
#53 ·
So I've done a lot of misc work since I bought the car. Last message here was replacing the steering lines.

I've since replaced/installed:

Rear transfer case / angle gear heatshield
Spark Plugs (OEM Volvo)
Turbo Heat shield bolts/springs
DO88 Intercooler
Transmission fluid
Harmonic balancer + Accessory belts + tensioners
Angle gear oil
Haldex oil/filter
Rear diff oil
Thermostat+housing+temp sensor
Forge CBV
Porsche TCV
Turbo coolant lines
Turbo oil feed line
Brake + clutch fluid flush

Almost ready to pull the trigger on a stage 1 tune.

I have one more thing to investigate, I don't really have a comparison.. The engine to me seems a bit noisy, there is ticking which I have seen is likely injectors (normal), but also have seen it be lifters (starved for oil, sump o-ring?) or also exhaust manifold studs/gasket

Here is a link to a video of the noise: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xTkqu8hA2NkkqaAz5

This was taken after a 20-minute drive. Again, the car has about 210k km on it.
 
#55 ·
Thanks! It is hard since I am both new to working on my car, and the sounds they make in general. I will maybe use the screwdriver trick to isolate where it is coming from, and maybe take a look at the manifold studs. More just for my own knowledge, but I will not worry about it.
 
#57 ·
In my experience and reading, a fairly loud ticking is normal/common.

A word of caution when checking the exhaust manifold - the studs/nuts are likely very seized. I got myself into a world of trouble when I tried to snug these up and ended up snapping some studs off flush with the head. This was a "head off and over to the machine shop" job. I'm sure you won't have a problem if you are gentle/careful - just thought I'd mention it.
 
#56 ·
Yeah, it's most likely injectors. Mine are massively ticky, to the degree that I thought I had an exhaust leak on cold start, when I didn't. If you don't hear it in the cabin with doors closed, it's probably safe to assume it's only them, not something underlying.

To check for exhaust leaks which is prudent either way, I'd recommend the shopvac blowing up tailpipe trick - creates positive pressure. Spray soapy water and any leak will immediately make large bubbles.
 
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