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    1. #36
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      +1 on Everything , But I wondering Why No one mentioned the Thermostat Housing being the Issue - with the New Hose Kit .. ( Unless that's Part of IPD Hose Kit )

      Other Item seemed to Slide right By , TCV Acting Up will usually Degrade to Very Low Boost very Quickly which leaves U in Limp Mode - really - Fast with Possibly a few Days of Squirrel Behavior 1-2 Drives Before Hand ..

      Shifting these Fine Mesh Gears on the M66 - is very much like Shifting Motorcycle ( Quick Clutch with Light Feathering with Quick Shift - Not - Fast ) The Gears will just Click Off like running Up through Gears on Motorcycle ..

      Many Owners Find themselves doing 3/4 to Full Clutch - to - Shift and that's where it gets Slow and to Hard to be Smooth .. ( Transmission has Slave Cly. which Acts as Limiter ) If the Clutch is Let Out to Fast -
      Slave Cly. Fitting WILL Limit Fluid Flow and Clutch will Slip & Heat & Then Burn some If - RPM's are Not Instantly Reduced OR Disengaged !

      Like on Very Steep Hill - this may Happen Very Fast ( If You Engage Clutch to Fast to Catch Vehicle - from Rolling Backwards ..) ( Yet U don't want to Roll Backwards ) say someone is Right Behind You ..

      Practice Very Steep Hills - Starts , just so U don't have an Issue when Situation Accrues . .

      Good to Hear someone is Saving Another Unicorn ~ Volvo

      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

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    3. #37
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      Thanks again for all the input guys.

      Regarding the sunroof drains, I did swap out the two front tubes with new ones from Lowes (The ones recommended here in another thread). I haven't checked the rear ones, but that seems to be less common of an issue.

      IPD has gone silent on me, I was talking to them about my missing couplers for the two long expansion tank hoses. I left the originals in, they don't seem weak but I have new hoses I can't use until I get those couplers. I wasn't in a rush to get them as I am in Canada and sort of told them it would be fine if they shipped them to me in my next order but I recently e-mailed them to order some parts and ask about these couplers and heard nothing back... I do get their marketing e-mails all the time though.

      Their hose kit does not include the thermostat housing. I did order a new thermostat just to have on hand, but I will take a look at my current housing and see if I should replace it. It isn't leaking though.

      I like the idea of the boost guage just to monitor for issues. I refurbished the hard pipe from the turbo to intercooler last fall, sanded and re-painted it, it looked horrible. I saw some nice options for mounting the guauge but haven't pulled the trigger yet. My A Pillars are white/cream (sand?) and wasn't sure I could install it and make it look nice.

      Appreciate the tips on learning manual. I have driven more in the past 2 weeks than probably the first 3 months. I am way more confident now. I was always asking people I knew that drive manual for tips etc, but I think it is hard to explain as a lot seems to be muscle memory to really get smooth at everything.

      EngTech: Can you elaborate on the "doing 3/4 clutch to full Clutch"? I push the clutch all the way in, shift then lift the clutch (not sure if it is 1/2 or 3/4, but basically until it is grabbing a bit) leave it for a second or two maybe and then let off. All while starting to give it more gas. I would say RPMs are maybe 1-1.5k (sometimes lower if I let the clutch out a bit too far when trying to get the biting point).


      Thanks!

    4. #38
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      I just lost my power steering. Fluid leaking out the bottom of the car, got it home fine but I'm leaving for a week and won't have a chance to investigate it too much.

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    6. #39
      Probably just a hose, might be the pump, hard to say.
      06 S40 T5 AWD : DO88 intercooler : 3" EST downpipe : Eibach springs (1" drop) : Magnaflow cat-back exhaust : Hilton stage 2.5 tune

    7. #40
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      Am I mistaken, or is this not the power steering lines? It seems like a leak, as there was green liquid dripping from the car. I did replace the fluid with CHF 202 back in October.


      This is where I think the leak is: Attachment 58829


      Here I circled it: edit.jpg


      GR-391488.jpg


      If this is the case, seems to me the following parts would be required from above diagram (2, 3, 5, 7, 18, 19, 20, 21):

      31360913 x 1 - Pressure hose assembly
      30671314 x 2 - Quick couplings for pump side
      30680665 x 4 - O-Ring IDA 7.65mm 2 for rack side and 2 for pump side
      30680666 x 2 - Other O-rings for rack side

      Also some misc fasteners for installing:
      989852 x2 - Flange Screw
      985993 x2 - Hex Screw
      Last edited by sirloins; 02-08-2020 at 05:46 PM.

    8. #41
      Okay - just did this job so lets save you some money:

      So some correction here:
      #1 - You only need 1 quick coupling for the pump side unless you're getting a second in case you barney up the first one. The second hose (return hose) is just a rubber hose with a squeeze clamp on it.
      #2 - You can't use all the same o-ring. The orings for the linessteering rack are 30680666 and they come in a pair (a brown and a green one). Then the oring for the pressure linepump 30680665 and you only need one (brown with a white line).
      #3 - you don't need any of the hex screws or flange screws (depends on weather and road anti-iceing measures they use). If your car has a habit of breaking bolts then sure, otherwise, just a dab of blue loctite and you're good to go.


      HOWEVER - according to this photo from FCPEURO - if you order a new hose, it comes with all new orings and the quick coupler already on the lines:


      Otherwise - easy peasy job to do. I am quite frankly not even sure how much you'll have to drop the subframe if at all just to drop the lines out.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    9. #42
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      Thank you so much avenger09123 that was great information!

      I will try to take some pictures / video of the process for others. I don't have the parts yet, but I should hopefully get them this week.

      I have a friend who has offered to let me use his heated garage to do the work in, or also he has a friend with a hydraulic lift that we may be able to use.

      I will update once I have done the work, probably in a week or so.

    10. #43
      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      Thank you so much avenger09123 that was great information!

      I will try to take some pictures / video of the process for others. I don't have the parts yet, but I should hopefully get them this week.

      I have a friend who has offered to let me use his heated garage to do the work in, or also he has a friend with a hydraulic lift that we may be able to use.

      I will update once I have done the work, probably in a week or so.
      Part 1 of steering rack removal


      Part 2 of removal and reassembly


      Lines and access to them are in the video. SUPER EASY if you follow the DIY. You're gonna need a transmission jack if you do it on a lift, to support the subframe - it's probably 200-300lbs. will take most of the discovery out of it for you.
      Last edited by R-Pow3R3d; 02-17-2020 at 11:03 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    11. #44
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      Thanks for the video, it should help a lot!

      I will watch the videos for sure. It does seem from all the pictures I have and the diagrams that I should be able to access the bolts on the steering rack without dropping the subframe if I am just changing the hoses/pipes.

      I think in blue below is the connection point on the steering rack?

      shield.jpg
      Attachment 59045

      As a side note, does anyone know what part number that shield circled in red is? Mine I believe is rusted and rattling a lot, I would maybe think of changing it out if it wasn't too expensive.
      Last edited by sirloins; 02-18-2020 at 10:42 AM.

    12. #45
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      another way to get moving on a steep hill: pull the ebrake. have it engaged when stopped. then, when its time to go, start using the gas/clutch normally and as you feel the car start to lurch forward just release the ebrake and away you go.

      i've driven manual cars all my life and i still use this technique on some occasions. for instance - i was visiting friends in seattle and driving someone else's manual car. i was not used to the clutch engagement yet, and if you've seen the hills in seattle, they can be pretty terrifying in terms of roll-back.

    13. #46
      So the heat shield is one piece from right to left on FWD and AWD.
      Yes the blue circle is the connections to the steering rack.

      I found that on the AWD version, there is NOT enough room to remove the heatshield and hoses without dropping the subframe, at least with common handtools.

      However, the FWD might just be able to. There is a torx bolt on the same side of the rack on the left side that holds the lines to the rack itself.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 02-18-2020 at 09:48 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    14. #47
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      Thanks,

      I have been looking here for the shield, but I can't figure out which one it is (if any?) https://www.volvooftorontoparts.ca/a...GR-333768.html

      I will plan to drop the subframe unless my friend helping me has some special tool. He is also letting me use his heated garage which will be nice as my driveway has snow all over it still.

      Also thanks for the tips straight6pwr, I did use the handbrake method a couple of times on some steep hills in Montreal. I did forget to lower the handbrake once going out of a parking garage haha...

    15. #48
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      I found the heat shield part number using Vida. I was using online sites before. I think the reason I couldn't find it is that part number is not found anymore. I'll try searching some more.

      The part number for the heat shield I highlighted in red above is 31317371

      Screenshot from 2020-02-19 11-58-24.jpg


      Edit: 31317370 seems to be the correct part number as outlined below... and it is on the Toronto Volvo site as well.. damn I might need to get myself checked out. but thanks!
      Last edited by sirloins; 02-19-2020 at 12:09 PM.

    16. #49
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      I think you'll actually want 31317370 (noted as 5CYL) - the one you noted is for 4 cylinders (euro only). It's available at Volvo of Toronto: https://www.volvooftorontoparts.ca/p.../31317370.html

    17. #50
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      Thank you! Yes, I was mistaken. 31317370 seems like the right part.

    18. #51
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      I received the pressure hose assembly 31360913

      Avenger09123 was correct in that the hose assembly comes with all the o-rings and connectors required. The only thing it does not come with (understandable) is replacement bolts. I decided to order a few replacements as mine were fairly rusted.

      There was one bolt, on the lower portion of the steering rack that is not shown in the online pictures. From the video posted above, it is a Torx 20, weird that it isn't shown in the diagram.


      Still waiting on the heat shield. I will call the dealer tomorrow and check up on it.

      I have time this weekend and will hopefully get it all installed.

    19. #52
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      I was able to perform the work yesterday with the help of a friend and his warm garage.

      I was actually able to complete the whole process with access from above the engine and below. I did not need to drop the subframe at all.


      Rough Steps:
      • Jack up the front of the car, we just did the passenger side and put a jack stand under.

      • Remove the front passenger wheel and wheel well liner

      • Remove engine skid plate/protector

      • Remove the hard pipe going to the intercooler, this gave easier access to one of the pipe mounting points on the Rack.

      • I removed the old lines first from the rack, then from the pump. I then removed the 3 other brackets holding them to the frame/rack.

      • Put new lines in, I started from the rack side and its closest mounting bracket, and then the pump and its mounting bracket. I then did the two middle mounting brackets.

      • The hardest bolts to remove and re-insert are right near the AC pump, and face the front of the car. There is almost no room to get in there but we managed. The lines go around the AC compressor in a U shape.


      I ran into several problems and ended up taking much longer than expected.

      The first problem was the mounting bracket holding the lines to the bottom of the steering rack. This was a T25 and it was very rusted, I had soaked it in bolt remover for a few days but I still stripped the head. We ended up using a metal saw, cut the pipes around the bracket and removed the rubber bushing from it. I then used vice grips on the bolt and it started to turn and got it out. This likely wouldn't have slowed many people down, common rusted fastner removal...

      The bigger problem was the high-pressure hose into the rack. It would not come out! We tried hitting it, wiggling it etc. We thought we were very gently but in the end the pipe broke and left a piece inside the steering rack! We tried a bunch of things to get this piece out but ended up having to go out to a store and get a screw extractor just the right size and it worked. We spent the bulk of the time on this problem, trying not to damage the lines/rack and working with limited space from above/below.

      Anyway, the car is all back together and working again, thanks for the help guys!


      Pictures:

      Here is a picture of the new hose. The silver section on the end (with the o-ring) was what ended up getting stuck inside the rack.
      Screenshot from 2020-03-02 12-28-32.jpg

      Picture of the rack with the piece stuck inside (top hole has the piece stuck in it, the bottom low-pressure was removed fine):
      Screenshot from 2020-03-02 12-28-41.jpg

      Picture of the mounting bracket that had seized and we cut the pipes around it to remove. You can see the disconnected intercooler pipe:
      Screenshot from 2020-03-02 12-47-26.jpg

      Picture of pump:
      Screenshot from 2020-03-02 12-45-08.jpg
      Last edited by sirloins; 03-02-2020 at 03:24 PM.

    20. #53
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      So I've done a lot of misc work since I bought the car. Last message here was replacing the steering lines.

      I've since replaced/installed:

      Rear transfer case / angle gear heatshield
      Spark Plugs (OEM Volvo)
      Turbo Heat shield bolts/springs
      DO88 Intercooler
      Transmission fluid
      Harmonic balancer + Accessory belts + tensioners
      Angle gear oil
      Haldex oil/filter
      Rear diff oil
      Thermostat+housing+temp sensor
      Forge CBV
      Porsche TCV
      Turbo coolant lines
      Turbo oil feed line
      Brake + clutch fluid flush


      Almost ready to pull the trigger on a stage 1 tune.

      I have one more thing to investigate, I don't really have a comparison.. The engine to me seems a bit noisy, there is ticking which I have seen is likely injectors (normal), but also have seen it be lifters (starved for oil, sump o-ring?) or also exhaust manifold studs/gasket

      Here is a link to a video of the noise: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xTkqu8hA2NkkqaAz5

      This was taken after a 20-minute drive. Again, the car has about 210k km on it.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    21. #54
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
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      Sounds almost exactly like my car. I don't think I'd worry about it.

    22. #55
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      Thanks! It is hard since I am both new to working on my car, and the sounds they make in general. I will maybe use the screwdriver trick to isolate where it is coming from, and maybe take a look at the manifold studs. More just for my own knowledge, but I will not worry about it.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    23. #56
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
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      Yeah, it's most likely injectors. Mine are massively ticky, to the degree that I thought I had an exhaust leak on cold start, when I didn't. If you don't hear it in the cabin with doors closed, it's probably safe to assume it's only them, not something underlying.

      To check for exhaust leaks which is prudent either way, I'd recommend the shopvac blowing up tailpipe trick - creates positive pressure. Spray soapy water and any leak will immediately make large bubbles.

    24. #57
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      Thanks! It is hard since I am both new to working on my car, and the sounds they make in general. I will maybe use the screwdriver trick to isolate where it is coming from, and maybe take a look at the manifold studs. More just for my own knowledge, but I will not worry about it.
      In my experience and reading, a fairly loud ticking is normal/common.

      A word of caution when checking the exhaust manifold - the studs/nuts are likely very seized. I got myself into a world of trouble when I tried to snug these up and ended up snapping some studs off flush with the head. This was a "head off and over to the machine shop" job. I'm sure you won't have a problem if you are gentle/careful - just thought I'd mention it.

    25. #58
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      I did the screwdriver test, it does seem to be the injectors making that noise. I haven't taken the turbo heat shield off to look at the bolts yet.

      I flushed my brakes a few weeks ago and just noticed one my rear driver bleeder had a bit of fluid dripping from it, not much. Also, the bleeder rubber cap was missing. I tried tightening it but it seems snug enough. I may order some new bleeder valves + caps in case.

      Yesterday I replaced the rear sway bar links with TRW brand ones. I have the stock swaybar. I spent hours trying to get the first one off as the bolt kept spinning even with an allen key in-place... until my friend recommended I just cut the old ones off... why didn't I think of that sooner!? The next one took maybe 20 minutes.

      Today I replaced the interior and some exterior lights with LEDs. I had a few issues, some places needed to be trimmed a bit to fit the LEDs in. I bought them all from superbrightleds. Also I had ordered a 37mm light for the interior hatch, but it turns out a 42mm was required, I just bent the metal tabs inwards a bit and it seems ok for now.

      While doing the puddle lights I noticed my passenger side mirror was separating from the plastic backing. I peeled it off a bit more and put some polyurethane to re-glue it in place.

      I don't have a pic of the new lights, but here is one of the old ones.

      IMG_20200511_210653.jpg
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    26. #59
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      Hi, It has been a while for me with nothing much done on the car. I haven't replaced the windshield/seal yet. It doesn't seem to be leaking since I replaced the sunroof seal. I also want to get a couple rust spots repaired at the top of the windshield at the same time, so been waiting for shops to open up etc.

      I've been enjoying driving it over the past couple of months, mainly going to do curbside beer pickup haha.

      I am now ready to start my suspension refresh. I do not like the feel of the current steering/suspension.


      Front:
      - Koni Yellow struts + strut mounts + bearings
      - Keeping current springs (comfort) until I find a good replacement. I do not want to lower the car much if any.
      - Doorman Lower control arms (available on Amazon here)
      - TRW tie rod ends
      - Already have new sway bar endlinks.
      - New bolts/nuts all around

      Rear:
      - KYB 741067 AGX
      - Control arms (not the lower one) I was looking at just new bushings for the lower, but seem expensive $100USD? Any other suggestions here? New ones are about $120CDN each.
      - New bolts/nuts all around
      - Keeping shock mount for now, AWD seems expensive ($100?!) and mine might still be OK?
      - Keeping stock springs for now
      - Already have new sway bar end links. May upgrade the sway bar and/or replace bushings on it at a later date.

      It will likely take about 2-3 weeks to get all the parts. I haven't ordered everything yet, so if anyone has any suggestions let me know.

      My plan is once I have the front apart to take the struts to a shop/friends to have them swapped over. Do I need to drive it for a bit before getting an alignment?

      I am hoping for a slightly stiffer setup, maintain ride height, and have a much better steering response.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    27. #60
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      I'd suggest adjustable upper control arms if you're going through the suspension.

    28. #61
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      Thanks for the advice, would something like this be good: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Rear-Upp...1/201633366494
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    29. #62
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Sounds like a good plan. I just installed KYB AGX rear shock absorbers on my AWD V50 - setting 3 is just about right for me (firm but not harsh). My shock mounts were in good shape. I found it tricky getting the top nuts off/on without the special Ford shock tool/socket, but it was do-able with a pair of vice grips, pinching where the rod would never meet the shock seal (obviously this is not a concern on the old shocks).

      Up front my plan is to go with Bilstein B4s, but Koni Yellows sound nice, too.

      As far as I'm aware you can get it aligned right away.

    30. #63
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      Thanks,

      For me it was a toss-up regarding B4 or B6 and Koni Yellow.. The Koni's seem to be on sale 20% off a lot of places until the end of the month (at least according to their website). I have never had aftermarket suspension parts on any on my cars (short history.. 2003 Subaru impreza outback sport, 2014 Mazda 3 sport and now the Volvo).

      This will be a new experience for me. I have driven in other people's cars with aftermarket parts and do like a firmer feel but I have never been the driver. I don't like the wheel gap either, but I do like not worrying in the snow or on rough roads.. For me, it is mostly "function over form" and I would rather live with a nice driving car year-round.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    31. #64
      I just started the upgrade to poly everything for the rear suspension.
      Whiteline has a sale on their poly short control arms, can get curved and straight for under $100, pre-pressed in.

      I just put them in my AWD, fairly simple task. I only did one side (passenger side) but I poly'd everything in it and I get to finish reassembly with the new wheel bearing tomorrow.

      Poly Suspension is going to be a much different ride, I can already tell.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    32. #65
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      Thanks avenger09123, I saw your other post about the Whiteline parts. I was thinking about it. I think I am going to put in the parts from fcpeuro first. I will see how hard it is to refurbish the old parts with new bushings. Although in terms of the adjustable upper arm I may just order the Whiteline part, it is out of stock currently.

      For the rear lower control arms, do you just need a generic press to change the bushings? Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Orion-Motor-Te...dp/B01N7CO50E/
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    33. #66
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      I may have made a mistake... are the rear control arms (upper, trailing and lower) the same for FWD and AWD? On the volvopartsoftoronto site, they are different part numbers but some sites don't seem to specify.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    34. #67
      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      Thanks avenger09123, I saw your other post about the Whiteline parts. I was thinking about it. I think I am going to put in the parts from fcpeuro first. I will see how hard it is to refurbish the old parts with new bushings. Although in terms of the adjustable upper arm I may just order the Whiteline part, it is out of stock currently.

      For the rear lower control arms, do you just need a generic press to change the bushings? Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Orion-Motor-Te...dp/B01N7CO50E/
      It's okay to do. I recommend the burn out and then cutting the outer bushing shell out with a hacksaw method, but that's me.
      I didn't do my removals/reinstalls myself - I had a local suspension shop do them. So they more than likely used a press.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    35. #68
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      I may have made a mistake... are the rear control arms (upper, trailing and lower) the same for FWD and AWD? On the volvopartsoftoronto site, they are different part numbers but some sites don't seem to specify.
      Most rear suspension components are different between FWD and AWD. Upper control arms may be the exception to that rule, but I'm not positive.

    36. #69
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      Thanks, I noticed on FCPEuro they had a non-adjustable kit but it specifically mentions FWD on the trailing arm. On the Whiteline website it doesn't seem to have a distinction but they are also out of stock on the upper arm. (WA401)

      I have everything ordered for the front, struts, LCA etc. I also hopefully have all the bolts/nuts for the front and rear on order.

      For the rear control arms I am back to square one. I have the AGX shocks ordered but no bushings/arms.

      I am tempted to go through vivaperformance as they have the eibach springs (not sure yet if I want to use them..) they have powerflex bushings in stock it seems for all rear components. I would prefer to buy the arms with bushings pre-installed if possible.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    37. #70
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Posts
      573
      I don't know about AWD. I have FWD and I adjusted my upper control arms out about one turn of the adjuster (this is two threads' length because both ends of the adjuster are threaded). That put my camber pretty close to -1 degree.

      Afterwards, I had an alignment done and he adjusted one of the arms (it was pretty tricky to adjust because it's right next to the shock) and left the other alone because it was in spec.

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