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2010 V50 T5 AWD M66 first Volvo, first manual

17K views 199 replies 24 participants last post by  sirloins 
#1 ·
Hi,

I recently joined the forum as I just purchased my first Volvo. Our family had a single car and I wanted to get a car for myself that met the following criteria:

  • Same or larger than our 2014 Mazda3
  • AWD for the winter
  • Manual - I have never driven manual before
  • Leather seats
  • Fun to drive
  • Something I can tinker with (oil change, replace some worn parts) Since we have the second car I am OK if this isn't driveable for a few days

Originally I was looking for something like a Subaru Legacy GT or VW Wagon. I ended up stumbling across what appeared to me as a fairly well maintained V50 T5 AWD.

2010 V50 T5 AWD M66
207K KM
Passion Red (612)
Quartz interrior (I think that is the colour name)

I am not sure about all the options on the car but it does have the following (some may be standard, forgive my ignorance):
  • Heated Seats
  • Dual climate control
  • Auto-dimming mirror
  • Leather seats
  • Those funky auto-turning headlights
  • High-Performance Audio (USB, Aux-in, Sat radio)
  • Rain Sensor wipers
  • BLISS, Heated and Auto folding mirrors

It seems to drive nicely, I have had a few more experienced manual drivers try it out for me. I am still learning but can get around fine so far.

Some cosmetic upgrades I have or will purchase shortly:

  • Rear spoiler (Volvo)
  • Mud Flaps (Volvo)
  • License Plate Cover (Volvo)
  • Rear license plate mount (rusted)
  • Replace missing rear tow hook cover
  • Skid plate (engine cover, I purchased a plastic one for now. The car did not come with one which feels very bad especially with the salt here in the winter).

I would like some input as to how I can help maintain this car, preventative maintenance etc.

Timing belt was changed at 195K KM in Nov 2018 according to the sticker.
Oil was lat changed at 203K and looks clean still.

Items I think need replacing:

  • Engine Air Filter (Done, the old one was very dirty)
  • Cabin Air Filter (Not looking forward to this after looking at how it is done, should receive it next week).
  • I think the boost tubing needs to be replaced as the rubber parts are starting to shed rubber when rubbed by hand.
  • The boost hard pipe is corroded, not sure how cosmetic this is or if it should be replaced as well (do88? with new intercooler)
  • I think I may replace all the coolant tubes as well to silicone (IPD?)
  • Spark plugs? Or should I wait until I think something is wrong?
  • Passenger side motor mount is soft/squishy and needs replacing. I will purchase all 3.
  • There is some kind of shielding over the steering that is completely rusted out
  • The car came with "new" brake rotors/pads and tires (Uniroyal...) I took a look at the brake fluid and there is clearly some particles in there so they did not flush the system. I will do a brake flush.
  • Oil + Filter I will change

Pics of the car: https://photos.app.goo.gl/K6PazUcRuoL7ns1z8

Thanks!
 
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#58 ·
I did the screwdriver test, it does seem to be the injectors making that noise. I haven't taken the turbo heat shield off to look at the bolts yet.

I flushed my brakes a few weeks ago and just noticed one my rear driver bleeder had a bit of fluid dripping from it, not much. Also, the bleeder rubber cap was missing. I tried tightening it but it seems snug enough. I may order some new bleeder valves + caps in case.

Yesterday I replaced the rear sway bar links with TRW brand ones. I have the stock swaybar. I spent hours trying to get the first one off as the bolt kept spinning even with an allen key in-place... until my friend recommended I just cut the old ones off... why didn't I think of that sooner!? The next one took maybe 20 minutes.

Today I replaced the interior and some exterior lights with LEDs. I had a few issues, some places needed to be trimmed a bit to fit the LEDs in. I bought them all from superbrightleds. Also I had ordered a 37mm light for the interior hatch, but it turns out a 42mm was required, I just bent the metal tabs inwards a bit and it seems ok for now.

While doing the puddle lights I noticed my passenger side mirror was separating from the plastic backing. I peeled it off a bit more and put some polyurethane to re-glue it in place.

I don't have a pic of the new lights, but here is one of the old ones.

Technology Automotive lighting Fashion accessory
 
#59 ·
Hi, It has been a while for me with nothing much done on the car. I haven't replaced the windshield/seal yet. It doesn't seem to be leaking since I replaced the sunroof seal. I also want to get a couple rust spots repaired at the top of the windshield at the same time, so been waiting for shops to open up etc.

I've been enjoying driving it over the past couple of months, mainly going to do curbside beer pickup haha.

I am now ready to start my suspension refresh. I do not like the feel of the current steering/suspension.

Front:
- Koni Yellow struts + strut mounts + bearings
- Keeping current springs (comfort) until I find a good replacement. I do not want to lower the car much if any.
- Doorman Lower control arms (available on Amazon here)
- TRW tie rod ends
- Already have new sway bar endlinks.
- New bolts/nuts all around

Rear:
- KYB 741067 AGX
- Control arms (not the lower one) I was looking at just new bushings for the lower, but seem expensive $100USD? Any other suggestions here? New ones are about $120CDN each.
- New bolts/nuts all around
- Keeping shock mount for now, AWD seems expensive ($100?!) and mine might still be OK?
- Keeping stock springs for now
- Already have new sway bar end links. May upgrade the sway bar and/or replace bushings on it at a later date.

It will likely take about 2-3 weeks to get all the parts. I haven't ordered everything yet, so if anyone has any suggestions let me know.

My plan is once I have the front apart to take the struts to a shop/friends to have them swapped over. Do I need to drive it for a bit before getting an alignment?

I am hoping for a slightly stiffer setup, maintain ride height, and have a much better steering response.
 
#62 ·
Sounds like a good plan. I just installed KYB AGX rear shock absorbers on my AWD V50 - setting 3 is just about right for me (firm but not harsh). My shock mounts were in good shape. I found it tricky getting the top nuts off/on without the special Ford shock tool/socket, but it was do-able with a pair of vice grips, pinching where the rod would never meet the shock seal (obviously this is not a concern on the old shocks).

Up front my plan is to go with Bilstein B4s, but Koni Yellows sound nice, too.

As far as I'm aware you can get it aligned right away.
 
#63 ·
Thanks,

For me it was a toss-up regarding B4 or B6 and Koni Yellow.. The Koni's seem to be on sale 20% off a lot of places until the end of the month (at least according to their website). I have never had aftermarket suspension parts on any on my cars (short history.. 2003 Subaru impreza outback sport, 2014 Mazda 3 sport and now the Volvo).

This will be a new experience for me. I have driven in other people's cars with aftermarket parts and do like a firmer feel but I have never been the driver. I don't like the wheel gap either, but I do like not worrying in the snow or on rough roads.. For me, it is mostly "function over form" and I would rather live with a nice driving car year-round.
 
#64 ·
I just started the upgrade to poly everything for the rear suspension.
Whiteline has a sale on their poly short control arms, can get curved and straight for under $100, pre-pressed in.

I just put them in my AWD, fairly simple task. I only did one side (passenger side) but I poly'd everything in it and I get to finish reassembly with the new wheel bearing tomorrow.

Poly Suspension is going to be a much different ride, I can already tell.
 
#65 ·
Thanks avenger09123, I saw your other post about the Whiteline parts. I was thinking about it. I think I am going to put in the parts from fcpeuro first. I will see how hard it is to refurbish the old parts with new bushings. Although in terms of the adjustable upper arm I may just order the Whiteline part, it is out of stock currently.

For the rear lower control arms, do you just need a generic press to change the bushings? Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Orion-Motor-Tech-Separator-Adapters/dp/B01N7CO50E/
 
#67 ·
It's okay to do. I recommend the burn out and then cutting the outer bushing shell out with a hacksaw method, but that's me.
I didn't do my removals/reinstalls myself - I had a local suspension shop do them. So they more than likely used a press.
 
#69 ·
Thanks, I noticed on FCPEuro they had a non-adjustable kit but it specifically mentions FWD on the trailing arm. On the Whiteline website it doesn't seem to have a distinction but they are also out of stock on the upper arm. (WA401)

I have everything ordered for the front, struts, LCA etc. I also hopefully have all the bolts/nuts for the front and rear on order.

For the rear control arms I am back to square one. I have the AGX shocks ordered but no bushings/arms.

I am tempted to go through vivaperformance as they have the eibach springs (not sure yet if I want to use them..) they have powerflex bushings in stock it seems for all rear components. I would prefer to buy the arms with bushings pre-installed if possible.
 
#70 ·
I don't know about AWD. I have FWD and I adjusted my upper control arms out about one turn of the adjuster (this is two threads' length because both ends of the adjuster are threaded). That put my camber pretty close to -1 degree.

Afterwards, I had an alignment done and he adjusted one of the arms (it was pretty tricky to adjust because it's right next to the shock) and left the other alone because it was in spec.
 
#71 ·
Having removed the short curved and the short straight control arms from the rear, the whiteline arms which don't specify AWD or FWD are exact duplicates of the AWD ones I removed from my car.
 
#72 ·
Thanks guys,

So I can get the non-adjustable arms from Whiteline. Too bad they are out of stock on the adjustable ones as well as the lower (large) arm bushings.

I placed an order with PowerFlex for the large lower control arm bushings as well as the small bushing for the torque/transmission mount. I replaced the mount earlier with the IPD version, but never changed the smaller bushing. I also ordered the insert for my old stock mount just in case. Shipping kills me on these US orders, so I might as well bundle some things together even if I don't need them right away.

I am considering ordering the rear arms from Whiteline. The two upper and two lower looks to be about $180 USD plus shipping.
 
#73 ·
I put mine in - can say they were a TIGHT fit, to the point some amount of one of the bushings was scraped off when I put it in the trailing arm. The body mount points were fine. Today I went on my first trip on the highway, I have a small rattle, but I have a theory as to what that is - the only arm that was a big PITA to put in was the spring holder arm and I have a theory it was twisted in the wreck the car was in when erie got it. I have a new one coming (Dorman 522-218 for $39 from ebay) to put in to try out a straight bushing. When I slalom the car the short arms don't cause knocking, but over bumps on the road there is some amount of it. Highway when everything is loaded down it at 60+ the knocking is practically invisible on bumps.

I do recommend in this case, the short arms from whiteline and the nolathane press-in for the trailing arm. Maybe a competent shop to press in your spring holder lca bushings.
 
#74 ·
Thanks, everyone.

I already ordered the powerflex bushing for the lower rear control arm, I will see how they go.

I have now ordered everything below, so just need to wait ~3 weeks for the parts to arrive..

-All hardware/bolts/nuts/rivets/misc etc from VolvoOfToronto. Likely missed some knowing me..

Front
-Strut mounts Sachs
-Strut bearings Febi
-Koni Yellow front struts
-Moog LCA (I saw some people here happy, some said they sucked... we will see. I switched my order to moog from dorman off amazon..)
-TRW tie rod ends

Rear
-KYB AGX rear shocks
-Upper rear curved arm (adjustable) ACDelco
-Rear trailing arm Proforged (the straight arm)
-Lemforder trailing arm bushing
-Powerflex bushings for the lower rear arm with the spring that I don't plan to replace. (Will take them somewhere to press in, or try my luck)

Ordered the Eibach springs on a whim.... hopefully, I don't regret it... I can always switch back if I don't like it I guess.

My wallet is feeling very empty right now. Maybe I should have gone with coilovers at this point.... Too late now, time for a beer.
 
#75 ·
I did some similar stuff on my car (215k miles)... it was really the LCAs that were the only things that seemed worn out. Rear control arms looked good, I didn't do anything with the spring one. Even the struts had some life left.

I used Mevotech Supreme, but I wish I had gone with Lemforder from FCP. We'll see how they hold up... the Mevotech threw my alignment way out, so that suggests they aren't very precisely made.
 
#117 ·
That is an AWD arm.

You can tell because as the arm leaves the seat of the spring, it meets a sharp angle and descends down to the other side. The FWD arms do not have this "incline" as one could call it, they just go relatively straight across. Mine from Dorman came with the same Nubby - FWD arms usually have some sort of rubber bumper that is in there, but AWD do not, don't ask me, I don't know why.
From what I've seen, it's another bump stop. I think the top of the Mazda 3 and Ford focus (and FWD P1?) rear subframes is lower, so they add the rubber nub as a bumper. Can see evidence of that here:


Curious about cutting it off, too. Of all the tools I own, an angle grinder ain't one of em and I'll be doing this soon :)
 
#78 ·
Yeah I am going to start blasting it today until the parts come. I tried to order replacement bolts etc for all these, so worst case I have to cut them off.

Once I have everything off I plan to try and wire brush and clean/paint as much as possible to protect it for a bit longer.
 
#79 ·
Holy rust, batman! Definitely have a backup plan and new bolts for those arms. My car isn't anywhere near as rusty and I'm worried about seized bushings. Good luck!

I put mine in - can say they were a TIGHT fit, to the point some amount of one of the bushings was scraped off when I put it in the trailing arm. The body mount points were fine. Today I went on my first trip on the highway, I have a small rattle, but I have a theory as to what that is - the only arm that was a big PITA to put in was the spring holder arm and I have a theory it was twisted in the wreck the car was in when erie got it. I have a new one coming (Dorman 522-218 for $39 from ebay) to put in to try out a straight bushing. When I slalom the car the short arms don't cause knocking, but over bumps on the road there is some amount of it. Highway when everything is loaded down it at 60+ the knocking is practically invisible on bumps.

I do recommend in this case, the short arms from whiteline and the nolathane press-in for the trailing arm. Maybe a competent shop to press in your spring holder lca bushings.
THANK YOU for confirming the Whiteline straight and upper camber arms fit. I ordered them blindly a little while ago since I asked about the FWD and AWD difference in another thread and got crickets. Do the Dorman 522-218 arms fit on AWD? I've been doing some Ford platform research to try and understand the rear lower control arm geometry. Came up with some candidate P/Ns to try instead of the OEM $200 arms, this was one of them.
 
#81 ·
We share a bunch or parts with Ford and Mazda.

The front suspension, the brakes off a mazdaspeed, the intercooler off a Focus RS, the torque mounts, rear sway bars of a mazdaspeed, the list goes on and on...

In the Uk, the Focus St225 uses the same engine as ours, a tone of those parts fit, but in the US its mostly suspension parts.
 
#86 ·
Regarding the Dorman 522-218 part:

I contacted one ebay seller, they showed 10 available but he said they don't have it in stock and is 90+ days until they do.

I checked Summit Racing and they also showed it ships the same day, but once viewing the cart for checkout it mentions it is a special order item and will be ordered from their supplier. I'll send them an e-mail. It seems they have 1 in stock, but if you try adding 2 then it mentions special order...
 
#89 ·
I got mine on ebay. Searched Volvo S40 lower control arm or S40 rear lower control arm, sort by cost - many small shops have them in stock for $42 starting. Might have to order from two different shops then.
 
#88 ·
I forgot to look there... doh! I even just ordered some of the other parts from there.. Thanks! Another place within Canada has them, never ordered from them before. partsavatar.ca It is slightly cheaper than rock auto as they have free shipping for me.
 
#90 · (Edited)
I've received some of the parts.

Rock Auto was blazing fast via FedEx into Canada. (Front LCA, rear upper/trailer arms).

Received the Volvo order as well, although for some dumb reason I only ordered 2 bolts for the rear shock mounts instead of 4 for both sides. I also didn't order the lower bolt for the rear shock... Will place that order on Monday once I check the rest of the items.

FCPEuro should be here Monday along with KYB rear shocks and rear lower arms.

The longest item is the springs, I was told about 10-15 business days before they ship.

I plan to also do some rust removal/painting of the rear end, so I may start some of that while waiting for the springs.

Note regarding e-bay, I did contact a few other sellers from the US. They all said their supplier was having issues with stock reporting and that they likely use the same supplier as 3 of them were out of stock. I ended up ordering from partsavatar.ca, parts shipped out the next day, and should be here Monday.
 
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