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    1. #71
      Having removed the short curved and the short straight control arms from the rear, the whiteline arms which don't specify AWD or FWD are exact duplicates of the AWD ones I removed from my car.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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    3. #72
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      Thanks guys,

      So I can get the non-adjustable arms from Whiteline. Too bad they are out of stock on the adjustable ones as well as the lower (large) arm bushings.

      I placed an order with PowerFlex for the large lower control arm bushings as well as the small bushing for the torque/transmission mount. I replaced the mount earlier with the IPD version, but never changed the smaller bushing. I also ordered the insert for my old stock mount just in case. Shipping kills me on these US orders, so I might as well bundle some things together even if I don't need them right away.

      I am considering ordering the rear arms from Whiteline. The two upper and two lower looks to be about $180 USD plus shipping.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    4. #73
      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      Thanks guys,

      So I can get the non-adjustable arms from Whiteline. Too bad they are out of stock on the adjustable ones as well as the lower (large) arm bushings.

      I placed an order with PowerFlex for the large lower control arm bushings as well as the small bushing for the torque/transmission mount. I replaced the mount earlier with the IPD version, but never changed the smaller bushing. I also ordered the insert for my old stock mount just in case. Shipping kills me on these US orders, so I might as well bundle some things together even if I don't need them right away.

      I am considering ordering the rear arms from Whiteline. The two upper and two lower looks to be about $180 USD plus shipping.
      I put mine in - can say they were a TIGHT fit, to the point some amount of one of the bushings was scraped off when I put it in the trailing arm. The body mount points were fine. Today I went on my first trip on the highway, I have a small rattle, but I have a theory as to what that is - the only arm that was a big PITA to put in was the spring holder arm and I have a theory it was twisted in the wreck the car was in when erie got it. I have a new one coming (Dorman 522-218 for $39 from ebay) to put in to try out a straight bushing. When I slalom the car the short arms don't cause knocking, but over bumps on the road there is some amount of it. Highway when everything is loaded down it at 60+ the knocking is practically invisible on bumps.

      I do recommend in this case, the short arms from whiteline and the nolathane press-in for the trailing arm. Maybe a competent shop to press in your spring holder lca bushings.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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    6. #74
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      Thanks, everyone.

      I already ordered the powerflex bushing for the lower rear control arm, I will see how they go.


      I have now ordered everything below, so just need to wait ~3 weeks for the parts to arrive..

      -All hardware/bolts/nuts/rivets/misc etc from VolvoOfToronto. Likely missed some knowing me..

      Front
      -Strut mounts Sachs
      -Strut bearings Febi
      -Koni Yellow front struts
      -Moog LCA (I saw some people here happy, some said they sucked... we will see. I switched my order to moog from dorman off amazon..)
      -TRW tie rod ends

      Rear
      -KYB AGX rear shocks
      -Upper rear curved arm (adjustable) ACDelco
      -Rear trailing arm Proforged (the straight arm)
      -Lemforder trailing arm bushing
      -Powerflex bushings for the lower rear arm with the spring that I don't plan to replace. (Will take them somewhere to press in, or try my luck)


      Ordered the Eibach springs on a whim.... hopefully, I don't regret it... I can always switch back if I don't like it I guess.

      My wallet is feeling very empty right now. Maybe I should have gone with coilovers at this point.... Too late now, time for a beer.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    7. #75
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      I did some similar stuff on my car (215k miles)... it was really the LCAs that were the only things that seemed worn out. Rear control arms looked good, I didn't do anything with the spring one. Even the struts had some life left.

      I used Mevotech Supreme, but I wish I had gone with Lemforder from FCP. We'll see how they hold up... the Mevotech threw my alignment way out, so that suggests they aren't very precisely made.

    8. #76
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      Mine is a bit less, just over 200k km. I have a couple random pics of the rear section. Just trying to get a much nicer steering response mainly.


      IMG_20200629_164221.jpg

      IMG_20200625_111239.jpg

      IMG_20200625_111111.jpg

      IMG_20190902_114435.jpg
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    9. #77
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      Better get some PB Blaster, too!

      😀

      My s40 is far less rusty, but I did have rust on the bottom coil of my front springs where the coating was flaking off.

      I cleaned and painted them, but it's a possible issue you may want to keep an eye out for.

    10. #78
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      Yeah I am going to start blasting it today until the parts come. I tried to order replacement bolts etc for all these, so worst case I have to cut them off.

      Once I have everything off I plan to try and wire brush and clean/paint as much as possible to protect it for a bit longer.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    11. #79
      Junior Member Nick0matic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      pictures
      Holy rust, batman! Definitely have a backup plan and new bolts for those arms. My car isn't anywhere near as rusty and I'm worried about seized bushings. Good luck!

      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      I put mine in - can say they were a TIGHT fit, to the point some amount of one of the bushings was scraped off when I put it in the trailing arm. The body mount points were fine. Today I went on my first trip on the highway, I have a small rattle, but I have a theory as to what that is - the only arm that was a big PITA to put in was the spring holder arm and I have a theory it was twisted in the wreck the car was in when erie got it. I have a new one coming (Dorman 522-218 for $39 from ebay) to put in to try out a straight bushing. When I slalom the car the short arms don't cause knocking, but over bumps on the road there is some amount of it. Highway when everything is loaded down it at 60+ the knocking is practically invisible on bumps.

      I do recommend in this case, the short arms from whiteline and the nolathane press-in for the trailing arm. Maybe a competent shop to press in your spring holder lca bushings.
      THANK YOU for confirming the Whiteline straight and upper camber arms fit. I ordered them blindly a little while ago since I asked about the FWD and AWD difference in another thread and got crickets. Do the Dorman 522-218 arms fit on AWD? I've been doing some Ford platform research to try and understand the rear lower control arm geometry. Came up with some candidate P/Ns to try instead of the OEM $200 arms, this was one of them.
      07 V50 T5 AWD | E46 Bi-xenon w/ KBOWE | Projector Info

    12. #80
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      Serious question. Do we actually share parts with an American Focus or just the European model? When I google I find the Ford C1 platform which states us, Mazdas, and European Fords. What gives?

    13. #81
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ThomasR View Post
      Serious question. Do we actually share parts with an American Focus or just the European model? When I google I find the Ford C1 platform which states us, Mazdas, and European Fords. What gives?
      We share a bunch or parts with Ford and Mazda.

      The front suspension, the brakes off a mazdaspeed, the intercooler off a Focus RS, the torque mounts, rear sway bars of a mazdaspeed, the list goes on and on...

      In the Uk, the Focus St225 uses the same engine as ours, a tone of those parts fit, but in the US its mostly suspension parts.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    14. #82
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      Quote Originally Posted by ThomasR View Post
      Serious question. Do we actually share parts with an American Focus or just the European model? When I google I find the Ford C1 platform which states us, Mazdas, and European Fords. What gives?
      I believe that we share platforms (so, a lot of parts) with the Mazda 3 and the Mk2 European Focus. But even with these, our suspension parts are not always identical. For example, this control arm isn't quite right for a Volvo -- the shape is the same, but the ball joint is different: https://www.partsgeek.com/35mpksj-ma...-assembly.html

      On the American Focus, the control arm is a different shape with a different large bushing design.

      But all three -- Volvo P1, USA Focus, and Mazda 3 -- seem to share rear suspension links. So it's really an "it depends" answer as far as I can tell.

      We share some parts with lots of FoMoCo cars, like the coolant reservoir cap.

      The Euro Mk2 Focus RS and ST used the 5-cylinder engine, so we share some drivetrain parts with them.

    15. #83
      Quote Originally Posted by Nick0matic View Post
      Holy rust, batman! Definitely have a backup plan and new bolts for those arms. My car isn't anywhere near as rusty and I'm worried about seized bushings. Good luck!

      THANK YOU for confirming the Whiteline straight and upper camber arms fit. I ordered them blindly a little while ago since I asked about the FWD and AWD difference in another thread and got crickets. Do the Dorman 522-218 arms fit on AWD? I've been doing some Ford platform research to try and understand the rear lower control arm geometry. Came up with some candidate P/Ns to try instead of the OEM $200 arms, this was one of them.
      So nearest I can figure, when it comes to Ford and Mazda suspension with regards to the spring LCA in the rear - they all seem to refer to each others suspension as comfort or touring or dynamic or sport. They usually don't use the delineators of FWD or AWD. If you go to a Mazda website, you'll find Comfort suspension shows the same arm as the FWD versions of the spring LCA, and Sport/Dynamic shows the same arm as the AWD versions of the spring LCA.

      This happens to be the same case with Tasca and Dorman. There are a few other companies out there that seem to make LCA's for the rear and they follow the same delineators (Sports/Dynamic and Comfort). So chances are if it says Mazda 3 compatible AND for Sport/Dynamic suspension, it'll work for us for our AWD. If it says Comfort it'll be the FWD arms.

      In my case, according to Dorman, 522-218 fits for "Sport/Dynamic Suspension." It is the same visual construction as the OEM AWD arms. The other one shows "Comfort Suspension" and shows FWD arms with the smoother construction and large rubber nub at the end. It gets here Friday for me so it should be easy to tell and then put in.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    16. #84
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      Thanks for the Dorman part number. It is a great price if it fits the AWD. I am tempted to just order them as well. Definitely let us know how it goes.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    17. #85
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      Thank you. Thank you.

    18. #86
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      Regarding the Dorman 522-218 part:

      I contacted one ebay seller, they showed 10 available but he said they don't have it in stock and is 90+ days until they do.

      I checked Summit Racing and they also showed it ships the same day, but once viewing the cart for checkout it mentions it is a special order item and will be ordered from their supplier. I'll send them an e-mail. It seems they have 1 in stock, but if you try adding 2 then it mentions special order...
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    19. #87

    20. #88
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      I forgot to look there... doh! I even just ordered some of the other parts from there.. Thanks! Another place within Canada has them, never ordered from them before. partsavatar.ca It is slightly cheaper than rock auto as they have free shipping for me.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    21. #89
      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      Regarding the Dorman 522-218 part:

      I contacted one ebay seller, they showed 10 available but he said they don't have it in stock and is 90+ days until they do.

      I checked Summit Racing and they also showed it ships the same day, but once viewing the cart for checkout it mentions it is a special order item and will be ordered from their supplier. I'll send them an e-mail. It seems they have 1 in stock, but if you try adding 2 then it mentions special order...
      I got mine on ebay. Searched Volvo S40 lower control arm or S40 rear lower control arm, sort by cost - many small shops have them in stock for $42 starting. Might have to order from two different shops then.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    22. #90
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      I've received some of the parts.

      Rock Auto was blazing fast via FedEx into Canada. (Front LCA, rear upper/trailer arms).

      Received the Volvo order as well, although for some dumb reason I only ordered 2 bolts for the rear shock mounts instead of 4 for both sides. I also didn't order the lower bolt for the rear shock... Will place that order on Monday once I check the rest of the items.

      FCPEuro should be here Monday along with KYB rear shocks and rear lower arms.

      The longest item is the springs, I was told about 10-15 business days before they ship.

      I plan to also do some rust removal/painting of the rear end, so I may start some of that while waiting for the springs.

      Note regarding e-bay, I did contact a few other sellers from the US. They all said their supplier was having issues with stock reporting and that they likely use the same supplier as 3 of them were out of stock. I ended up ordering from partsavatar.ca, parts shipped out the next day, and should be here Monday.
      Last edited by sirloins; 07-03-2020 at 11:32 PM.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    23. #91
      That's pretty cool. I got my rear spring lca today. It went in stupidly easy. Was amazing the second time around, less than an hour to get it out and less than an hour to get it back in.

      Torqued everything to 80ftlbs and no more clunk over bumps.

      It is worth noting that you must compress the spring arm to ride height in order to get the bolt through to it's other side on the trailing arm. Tap it gently with a hammer and it sinks right in ready for that 15mm socket. Ride height for me on stock springs is 15.5 inches from fender well to center of the axle bolt.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    24. #92
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      Thanks avenger09123,

      I received the lower dorman arms today, tomorrow should be the front struts.

      So far I have 3 missing bolts I forgot to order from Volvo. Will do that tomorrow.

      For most of the arms that do not show a nut, the nut appears to be welded onto the knuckle (rear one, not sure what it is called?). I pb blasted all the bolts I could again.


      Unrelated to suspension:
      Today I had a small puddle under the car after parking for 10 minutes. The leak is coming from the hose attached to the rear of the expansion tank. I noticed the expansion tank was past the "MAX" level as well while it was dripping. Is it normal for the coolant level to rise this much? I can also hear the expansion tank cap making noise as air is coming out of it (not loud, but I can hear it). I had this happen about 8 months ago and tightened the hose more, perhaps it is just a seating issue with the hose as the clamp is super tight now.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    25. #93
      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      Unrelated to suspension:
      Today I had a small puddle under the car after parking for 10 minutes. The leak is coming from the hose attached to the rear of the expansion tank. I noticed the expansion tank was past the "MAX" level as well while it was dripping. Is it normal for the coolant level to rise this much? I can also hear the expansion tank cap making noise as air is coming out of it (not loud, but I can hear it). I had this happen about 8 months ago and tightened the hose more, perhaps it is just a seating issue with the hose as the clamp is super tight now.
      Usually when pressure is released(the hiss) it starts coolant boiling in the block and that pushes up the level in the reservoir. Start with a new cap and see if it continues to push out of the hose, maybe clean the hose and its connection and then order a new one if they still leak.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    26. #94
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      Get a genuine Ford cap, a lot cheaper than Volvo

    27. #95
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      Thanks guys,

      I think I found my problem(s).

      1. Coolant level increasing a lot while parked, from boiling in the block makes sense.
      2. I am using a large hose clamp which I think is not applying even pressure allowing air to escape. I don't have the right sized band clamps (constant pressure).
      3. At some point I really overtightened this hose, you can see in the pics below the plastic barb is oval now, and there is a discoloration on the side wall of the barb from the plastic being stressed.

      IMG_20200705_163208.jpg
      IMG_20200705_163258.jpg
      IMG_20200705_163549.jpg

      Edit: Just found the page where I bought the gates cap... lots of people complaining about it since I bought it. And saw my cap has the "S" on it indicating it is a "Stant" branded one... but I swear the box it came in said gates.. wtf.

      https://www.amazon.ca/Gates-31549-Ra...86QB2MNAWZHXMJ
      Last edited by sirloins; 07-05-2020 at 08:32 PM.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    28. #96
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      Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any good source for a rust-free rear subframe? I checked Erie and they didn't have any rear ones for the AWD manual.

      The more I get into this job the more I think about changing it... I see a lot of FWD ones, but I think the AWD manual has its own or is it just auto/manual the difference? (part number 30736430)
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    29. #97
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      Think I'd take the Entire thing apart and Send it out for Stripping & Plating - even
      Copper & Tin Plating then Industrial Nickle ( Which Holds up Under Sever ( Conditions ) is way Less then Chrome . .
      This Baked on Black that a lot Manufacture do - is OK but Issues is it should be Baked on 1100 Degrees as in Melted On type Ceramic not 200 Degree Fast Dry - BS
      There are also some Great DIY Header Coatings that will Give Long Life ..
      - I don't Know what that Crap was Up with the Rear of Volvo's
      Maybe it was Thin Alu. Under Trays that set up some type of Ionization - but all did that - seems they needed some Boat Anodes added to them ..

      Seeing it's a 1 of Kind Classic -Collectors Car & You have the Time - well everyone has Time - should be able to get some Unemployed Helpers for Cheap ..
      Even Plating Shops Laid Off 100's of People - They would LOVE the Work
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    30. #98
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      I do have the time, and even if I just put my suspension pieces in now and then take it apart later I am ok with that. My worry is that even if I take the whole subframe off I would never be able to get all the rust out of the hollow tubes.

      Are there shops that take the rusted subframe and do a proper job of clearing off all the old rust? I could invest in some kind of abrasive blaster, but again I don't see how it would get all the rust out from inside.

      I actually am still trying to get the lower control arm bolts out of the subframe. I have the bolts off, and adjustment washer off but it is seized into the bushing. I've gone at it with a hammer and an air chisel so far. I may end up just trying to cut the bolt if there is enough room in there. Tomorrow I will get back at it.

      IMG_20200712_181838.jpg

      IMG_20200712_184702.jpg
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    31. #99
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      Managed to pretty much disassemble the whole rear end. I hadn't planned on taking the whole knuckle out, but I hadn't realized the rear trailing arm bushings need to be pressed in/out. So I took them out, mine had tons of play and feel like they are falling apart (and look like it).

      I still have to cut the passenger side lower control arm off (well the bolts) and somehow access the rear bolt for the passenger upper control arm. On the driver's side I managed to use an impact with an extension out the rear, but the fuel lines seem to be in the way on the passenger side.

      The car will probably be like this for a few days as I try to wire brush and paint as best I can under there...

      IMG_20200715_142138.jpg

      IMG_20200715_194909.jpg

      Off to a friend's house to remove the old bushing and press the new one in.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    32. #100
      I just did my entire passenger side. I can say I used the double wrench method to get mine loose the first time. That was the only setup that would fit in the available space, and even then that was a challenge. Everything else was doable with a breaker bar.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    33. #101
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      Thanks! I really need to get a 6-point wrench set.

      Managed to get my bushings replaced, went fairly smooth.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    34. #102
      Quote Originally Posted by sirloins View Post
      Thanks! I really need to get a 6-point wrench set.

      Managed to get my bushings replaced, went fairly smooth.
      I anti-seized the crap out of everything on reassembly. Worth it IMO.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    35. #103
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      I will definitely do the same with anti-seize.

      I was able to use the double wrench technique as well to remove this one. Luckily it seemed a bit better than the driver side (not as seized).

      Thanks! Everything is off now, tomorrow I will try some futile painting/wire brushing and then begin re-assembly.


      IMG_20200716_184034.jpg
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    36. #104
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      Started with the rust removal. looking pretty good I think. I still have more to do of course.

      IMG_20200717_191552.jpg
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    37. #105
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      Nice! Looking good. Are you using phosphoric acid at all or is that all just from a wire brush?

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