Water/Methanol Injection
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    1. #1
      Junior Member zmarshm1's Avatar
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      Water/Methanol Injection

      Anyone successfully pulled this on an 01-04 t5? Was recommended to me by a buddy that drives a skyline out in NZ, I saw a kit sold by Snabb so I guess someone must have done it.
      Main concerns are reliability, cost of refill and the accessibility of adding a switch to the injection system.
      ||1998 s70 t5m - Stock, future gambler 500 car | 140k? miles
      ||2001 v70 t5 - IPD Sway bars | Delrin subframe bushings | Transmission cooler & mounted inline filter | Rostra long snout transmission solenoids | IPD catback exhaust & Rolling Motors 3" downpipe | Simota Carbon Charge Intake | Bilstein B4 & Eibach prokit lowering springs | 124k mi
      ||2003 v70 2.4t - First volvo | SOLD! Still driving around with 190k+ miles.
      Kanjo!!

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    3. #2
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      With a stock tune, it probably doesn't buy you anything.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    4. #3
      Member TGO's Avatar
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      Pretty sure people use water injection on NA motors...
      2002 XC70 2.4T - "Orca"
      White/Sand(Beige)

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    6. #4
      Member Antherzoll's Avatar
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      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?p=4081345

      I have the AEM progressive kit installed for a few years now and it's quite reliable. I'm not tuned for WMI, just operating it passively for additional protection. I've changed my setup a bit to allow the WMI nozzle to spray upstream of the AIT sensor so that it could register the drop in charge air temps.



      Benefits. It's like running high octane fuel. The ECU has some availability to self-tune for the water-methanol. First though the knock sensor. The ECU will normally push timing to the knock threshold to optimize power, since water-methanol increases knock resistance the ECU can optimize timing for the increase within safe limits.

      Second, the front O2 sensor is wide band and fuel control is always in closed loop in boost and at cruise, meaning the ECU is able to monitor and adjust fueling based off is O2 readings. When methanol is injected into the air charge it will cause a slightly rich mixture. The ECU is able to sense the change in fueling and will pull fuel so that measuered AFRs are maintained within the commanded setpoint. In fewer words, you won't run rich with WMI as the ECU can adjust for it. Since the ECU will normally richen mixtures in boost by dumping fuel, adding WMI will displace some of that additional fuel.

      If you're able to relocate the IAT sensor like I have above then the cooling affect of WMI on air charge can be read by the ECU which will further aid against heat soak and hot weather performance.

      I've been running -40f blue washer fluid as it's basically deionized water, methanol, and a little blue dye. Something like 60/40 by weight. Cheap, cheap, cheap, I can get it for like $2-3 a gallon and it works. If I was tuned for WMI I'd want something more precise, I'd mix my own or opt for the pre-mixed.

      Word of caution, WMI can kill throttle bodies if too much is sprayed. If operating it passively use it conservatively to ensure that the spray is properly dispersed, or you can try for post throttle injection.
      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    7. #5
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      I ran a WMI many years ago with a 429 Ford with an 11:1 compression ratio. Ran great with plain old 87 octane.
      2007 Volvo V70 2.5T - Mine
      2008 Nissan Titan SE 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed - Also Mine
      2012 Toyota Camry LE, 2.4 - Wife's
      2003 Mazda Protege5, 2.0 - Daughter #1
      2010 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2.5 - Daughter #2

    8. #6
      Senior Member JaredR's Avatar
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      this sounds like a really bad idea with a 01 T5a lol
      1995 850 T-5R Estate. AW50-42LE. Cream Yellow/Graphite. 296k.
      1997 850R Estate. RN/M66D. Bright Red/Graphite. 270k.
      2007 S60 T5. M66W. Black Sapphire/Arena. 138k.

      Past: |1997 855R. Bright Red/Light Beige. AW50-42LE. Totaled by wayward construction equipment. || 1996 854R. Black Stone/Graphite. AW50-42LE. Parts car || 1995 854 TURBO. Polar White/Tan. AW50-42LE. Parts car. |
      Dad: 1997 V70 T5 SE. AW50-42LE. Frost Green/Oak. 212k.Mom: NEW! 1999 S70 GLT Pewter/Oak. 100k. Past: 2004 V70 NA. AW55-50SN Ruby Red/Tan 269k. Sold to markj

    9. #7
      Junior Member zmarshm1's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by JaredR View Post
      this sounds like a really bad idea with a 01 T5a lol
      Yea probably. I’m picking up a Stevo tune sometime next year and was just weighing my options for upgrades currently.

      Thanks @Antherzoll for the write up, def saved that one!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      ||1998 s70 t5m - Stock, future gambler 500 car | 140k? miles
      ||2001 v70 t5 - IPD Sway bars | Delrin subframe bushings | Transmission cooler & mounted inline filter | Rostra long snout transmission solenoids | IPD catback exhaust & Rolling Motors 3" downpipe | Simota Carbon Charge Intake | Bilstein B4 & Eibach prokit lowering springs | 124k mi
      ||2003 v70 2.4t - First volvo | SOLD! Still driving around with 190k+ miles.
      Kanjo!!

    10. #8
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      Water/meth is great for helping to keep things clean as well. cylinders and piston tops. Also great for protecting the motor in high temp high boost situations.
      Yes, you will notice a difference even on a stock tune. Ever, drive the car in the cool AM and notice that it pulls harder? It's the cold air the motor is ingesting.
      True, you will get amazing results if you have it tuned for the water/meth, but you will still notice the difference even on stock set up. Cold air means more power regardless of huge turbo/tune. You will also get better results is as before mentioned, if you move the IAT sensor to a point after the injection nozzle. This way the ECU "sees" the colder temps and can optimize fueling accordingly. As for how much/often you will need to fill up the water/meth reservoir? It depends on a wide range of factors, not all but a few here; how hard/long/often you are in boost, size of nozzles, tune, mix of water to meth etc.

      I would say go for it. It is safe reliable power used since WWII for fighter aircraft and even now they are starting to put it in OEM vehicles to help combat direct injection problems of crap building up in the combustion chambers.

      Final thoughts...it is like driving your car in the late fall/early spring in 40 degree temps but with the tire grabbing power of 70+ degree ambient temps. While most drivers with turbos will start to greatly feel the effects of high temps and heat soak, timing being pulled, drastic loss of power from intercooler inefficiency in those high temps, you will be running cold. Same exact car, same tune, same hot outside temps, car with water/meth wins.
      2008 Volvo C30:
      Darton wet sleeves|CP Carrillo pistons&rods|Upgraded injectors|K16 turbo|3"downpipe|ELEVATE:cat back|custom intake|turbo intercooler hard pipe|lower motor mount|turbo blanket|intake plenum|downpipe wrap|dual bypass valve|lowering springs|rear camber arms|do88 FMIC|Porche 70mm TB|BMC air filter|MAF upgrade|Turbosmart waste gate|meth injection|IPD brake lines|NGK iridium 1 step colder|APR head studs|AEM AFR/Boost Gauge|Hilton Tuning

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