ECM-614B Camshaft control, exhaust. Faulty AND Oil light pressure light on
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    1. #1
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      ECM-614B Camshaft control, exhaust. Faulty AND Oil light pressure light on

      Hello
      I have a lovely 2010 S40 T5, that one happy day decided to skip a teeth in the timing belt and bent the valves. After repairing that, I've got some codes in vida that trouble my mind mainly, as I don't find any performance decrease or annoyance in general.
      VIDA throws this ECM code, which among another things can be caused by low oil pressure



      In the other hand, when I brake to a full stop, I get an oil pressure light that lasts for two seconds tops and a little shudder. I just changed oil so low level is not the issue. I found that for some people the problem was the oil sump o rings or the oil pressure sensor.
      I'm wondering if the code is can be because low oil pressure, or I'm getting low oil pressure because of a defective exhaust control?

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    3. #2
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      How many miles on your S40?

      If you are certain your oil level and viscosity is correct, with the engine running, pull out your oil dipstick and look at the oil on it. If the oil has bubbles in it, the seals in the oil pan are probably dried and or cracked preventing your oil pump from being able to suck the oil properly. Think trying to drink through a broken straw vs a good straw.

      That would explain the intermittent low oil pressure light and since the VVT system requires good oil pressure to function properly, the code you have in your car.

      A faulty VVT solenoid will not cause low oil pressure.
      2007 S40 T5

    4. #3
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      You definitely need to drop the oil pan and get a good look at the pickup and other oil tubes. Don't drive it with that kind of issue!
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

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    6. #4
      Member Oceans60R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by qaz996 View Post

      A faulty VVT solenoid will not cause low oil pressure.
      And low oil pressure WILL cause a camshaft control issue since its run by oil pressure.
      2011 S60 T6 Ember Black/Off Black, P* Tune, TDI-Tuning Box, DO88 Intercooler, IPD DP, Simons Sport Exhaust, IPD rear sway bar, H&R Springs, Bilstein B8's, 19" Polestar Wheels, 90mm Wheel Studs

    7. #5
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      Thanks for the answers
      I have 52k miles, is there another sign apart from bubbles on the dipstick? I'll check that as soon as I can

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by qaz996 View Post
      How many miles on your S40?

      If you are certain your oil level and viscosity is correct, with the engine running, pull out your oil dipstick and look at the oil on it. If the oil has bubbles in it, the seals in the oil pan are probably dried and or cracked preventing your oil pump from being able to suck the oil properly. Think trying to drink through a broken straw vs a good straw.

      That would explain the intermittent low oil pressure light and since the VVT system requires good oil pressure to function properly, the code you have in your car.

      A faulty VVT solenoid will not cause low oil pressure.
      Hello
      I do have bubbles on the dipstick. So definetly is the oil pan gaskets?

    9. #7
      Quote Originally Posted by mrfurlo View Post
      Hello
      I do have bubbles on the dipstick. So definetly is the oil pan gaskets?
      Seems like a reasonable bet to me - but there are no definites here. No matter what oil pan has to come off at a minimum - I think it's 1 or 2 bolts to undo the pickup tube and pul it off, and there's an oring around where it joins the pump - I'd order every oring on the website that goes inbetween the oil pan and the lower block half and replace them all at once while you have it open if I was you. While you're in there you can check for debris on the pickup tube's screen. If you can take a picture and post it here, I would like to see what 7,000mi oil intervals look like for you, and if there's any sludge buildup or anything, I'm interested.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 10-17-2019 at 08:45 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    10. #8
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      avenger09123 is right. Pull the pan.

      In addition to the seals he mentioned, I'd get the oil cooler O-rings too. You're going to need to unbolt that from the oil pan to drop it. I don't expect you'll find anything alarming in the pick up tube screen. Probably just a few pieces of the brittle seals in there. The bulk of the problem lies in my straw analogy more than a clogged screen. By the way, the oil pan uses a chemical gasket instead of a rubber gasket, so you'll need that.

      avenger - I doubt sludge buildup or any "maintenance" issues are the cause of this. I have never seen sludge buildup on the pick up tube screen. It has always been brittle/broken seals. In complete fairness though, most of the cars I work on are in fairly good condition, not neglected basket cases.
      2007 S40 T5

    11. #9
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      I'm buying this kit (oil sump gasket set, anaerobic sealant and engine oil cooler seal)
      https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ctor-reinz-kit

      And I change the oil every 3700 miles, as my daily commute is quite short and has heavy traffic. My average speed is 15 kmh
      I doubt I can take any pictures as I will take it to a shop to do the job, I don't have the space to do that job

    12. #10
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      I changed the oil pan gaskets and I still have the problem
      -Oil light on when braking
      -P000B error via OBD2 (haven't checked on vida yet)
      -bubbles on dipstick

      The mechanic said it could be the new gaskets have to settle for a day or two, what else should I try?

    13. #11
      Honestly, sounds like you need to try a better mechanic. These aren't chemical gaskets, and they shouldn't have to settle for a day. They either seal or don't. Him saying that concerns me that he is hoping the problem goes away, which is even worse IMO.

      If I was him, I would reasonably replace all the oil pan gaskets and not even touch the oil pickup tube, and throw the extras away. Mechanics tend to do what they want and not pay attention, because 90% of customers don't know what they're talking about, so it's hard to blame them, except for the other 10% that do and they waste time and money.

      Sorry dude, to me it sounds like your mechanic half did the job and cost you money in the process. Or he's perfectly competent and that Victor Reinz kit sucks.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    14. #12
      Member Oceans60R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mrfurlo View Post
      The mechanic said it could be the new gaskets have to settle for a day or two, what else should I try?
      Been working on Volvo's 28 years. Thats absolutely garbage. Something wasn't done correctly. Did they bother to inspect the oil pickup screen?
      2011 S60 T6 Ember Black/Off Black, P* Tune, TDI-Tuning Box, DO88 Intercooler, IPD DP, Simons Sport Exhaust, IPD rear sway bar, H&R Springs, Bilstein B8's, 19" Polestar Wheels, 90mm Wheel Studs

    15. #13
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      Thanks for the answers. I'll go back tomorrow and have a talk with the guy.
      Is there any other problem that could cause the problems mentioned? The valves were replaced a while ago when the timing belt skipped a teeth and bent some, since then the problem appeared.

    16. #14
      Quote Originally Posted by mrfurlo View Post
      Thanks for the answers. I'll go back tomorrow and have a talk with the guy.
      Is there any other problem that could cause the problems mentioned? The valves were replaced a while ago when the timing belt skipped a teeth and bent some, since then the problem appeared.
      No, not really. A clog in that VVT Actuator would result in the Failure to Perform on the VVT side of the house, and the range on the VVT actuation units (The tall thing in the head) is so wide it's nearly impossible to test them and they have a low chance of sending a code. However, the lack of places for oil to go if anywhere specific was clogged would increase your oil pressure and reduce your flow, causing less of a chance of your oil light showing up - so it's likely not a malfunctioning VVT actuator or clog giving you this issue.

      Oil typically has anti-foaming agents in it to prevent excess bubbles from showing up and turning the oil to froth, but something is causing that to happen to such a degree that you are getting bubbles on your dipstick. I would almost venture a guess that unscrewing the pan 1/2" and looking at the pickup tube with a flashlight to see if it sounds or looks like a straw failing to suck correctly (dripping or sound of gurgling) would be the best way to test, but I'm not sure where the oil level is in these cars and that might make a mess.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 12-06-2019 at 11:28 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    17. #15
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      Hello
      I finally solved the problem. I was referred to a reputable Volvo shop and they solved it in one day. There was a missing o ring in the vvt system and timing was a tooth off. Everything was solved and the code is no more. At least I won't have to worry about oil pan seals now

    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by mrfurlo View Post
      Hello
      I finally solved the problem. I was referred to a reputable Volvo shop and they solved it in one day. There was a missing o ring in the vvt system and timing was a tooth off. Everything was solved and the code is no more. At least I won't have to worry about oil pan seals now
      And THAT folks, is why you find a mechanic who is competent and familiar with the brand to fix your cars.
      2007 S40 T5

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