Rear brake pads replacement: DIY Video tutorial
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    1. #1
      Moderator tomedkaz's Avatar
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      Rear brake pads replacement: DIY Video tutorial

      The dealer wanted $375 on my 2018 XC90.
      I did it for $75 using just common tools.
      The electronic parking brake is super easy to manage. Just unscrew it and pull out.
      Took me maybe 15 min per side.
      One thing to note is that the inner pads are side specific so youíve got a L and R but itís easy to notice since theyíre clearly labeled.

      I hope this video helps some of you.


      https://youtu.be/jv0GfWv7C1I
      Last edited by tomedkaz; 11-10-2019 at 10:09 AM.
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    3. #2
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      Fantastic video! Since you're a moderator, please make this a sticky.

      How are the front brakes? Presumably similar but without the parking brake.
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    4. #3
      Junior Member coachlange's Avatar
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      Great video. Thank you for posting.

      Can someone confirm this is the same on my 2018 XC60?

      Looking forward to your next video!


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    6. #4
      Moderator tomedkaz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by coachlange View Post
      Great video. Thank you for posting.

      Can someone confirm this is the same on my 2018 XC60?

      Looking forward to your next video!


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      Yes. Exactly the same process for your xc60.

      And thanks !


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    7. #5
      Junior Member Volvolic's Avatar
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      That is a super-informative and helpful video. Thank you for recording and sharing. DIYers will surely appreciate it! Also, make it a sticky as others have suggested! Thank you.
      2018 Volvo V90 CC T6 Polestar'd

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    8. #6
      Junior Member bunnny's Avatar
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      Really comprehensive video. Iím glad someone took the time and patience for us to do such a great tutorial material. I assume the 2017 Momentum is very similar, if not t her same? Wonder about the font ones, too? Thank you very for saving us some extra $$$ Cheers


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    9. #7
      Junior Member sebynum's Avatar
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      Great video


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    10. #8
      Moderator tomedkaz's Avatar
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      Thanks everyone. Glad it seems to be helpful.

      Front brakes are super easy - just like a typical car - nothing electronic there. Once tommy pads go I will make a video on it as well.

      Iím a moderator in another forum section so canít sticky stuff here unfortunately.


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    11. #9
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      Many thanks, I will definitely use!
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    12. #10
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      Very nice video, thanks for sharing!

      I see you disconnect the break electronic plug. Did you run into "Service Parking Brake" error after? People in this video comments not to unplug the plug. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35Ost8pExtc

    13. #11
      Moderator tomedkaz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by imbilly View Post
      Very nice video, thanks for sharing!

      I see you disconnect the break electronic plug. Did you run into "Service Parking Brake" error after? People in this video comments not to unplug the plug. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35Ost8pExtc
      Nope. Zero issues. Did that on both sides.
      If I were to start the car with it unplugged perhaps thatís a different story. But Iím happy to report zero issues.

      Disconnecting it made it a lot easier to manouver.


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    14. #12
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      good video.

      did u measure the rotor to see if it needed replacing? and squeaks before changing the brakes? i'm guessing when it is time to do mine i'll go ahead and replace the rotors and look for ceramic composite pads.
      Sid
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    15. #13
      Moderator tomedkaz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Sidwin View Post
      good video.

      did u measure the rotor to see if it needed replacing? and squeaks before changing the brakes? i'm guessing when it is time to do mine i'll go ahead and replace the rotors and look for ceramic composite pads.
      The rotor was replaced not too long ago due to warping. Same thing with the front rotors.
      And no squeaks before or after - just limited life left on pads.
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    16. #14
      Junior Member gotart's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tomedkaz View Post
      The rotor was replaced not too long ago due to warping. Same thing with the front rotors.
      And no squeaks before or after - just limited life left on pads.
      One of the best I've seen- Hey did you Photoshop those clouds in? Great clouds. almost too perfect. Thanks.
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    17. #15
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      Anyone know the moderators? Can we make this a sticky in this subforum? Thanks
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    18. #16
      Junior Member Volvolic's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by stick_shift View Post
      Anyone know the moderators? Can we make this a sticky in this subforum? Thanks
      The OP, himself, is a moderator!
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    19. #17
      Thanks, great video!

    20. #18
      Moderator tomedkaz's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by gotart View Post
      One of the best I've seen- Hey did you Photoshop those clouds in? Great clouds. almost too perfect. Thanks.
      Haha clouds are all real


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    21. #19
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      Thanks for the video. I’m new to car maintenance. How do I know if rotors should be replaced at same time? Dealership mentioned pads and brakes should be replaced at the same time. $1100 for all 4 wheels.

      I see variant RC01 and RC02 listed for pads. Are they both compatible with a 18 XC90 T6? If not, what is difference?

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by seawolf View Post
      Thanks for the video. Iím new to car maintenance. How do I know if rotors should be replaced at same time? Dealership mentioned pads and brakes should be replaced at the same time. $1100 for all 4 wheels.

      I see variant RC01 and RC02 listed for pads. Are they both compatible with a 18 XC90 T6? If not, what is difference?
      Absurd. Unless your rotors are worn beyond their spec itís absolutely fine to replace just pads


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    23. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by Volvolic View Post
      The OP, himself, is a moderator!
      Sadly, doesn't have enough authority
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    24. #22
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      Great video! So many people who post vids skip steps and describe them or the camera work is just not good enough to show what is actually being done. Nice to see a high quality video on the rear brakes. I provided my own pads and rotors to the dealer and I was charged 200 for the work. Given the rears wear very quickly on the car I will plan on replacing them myself with the help of your video on the next go around.

    25. #23
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      I replaced my rear brake pads on my V 90 yesterday. Follow the video exactly which was excellent. The only variant I did was I used EBC red stuff brake pads. I wanted to find a better, longer lasting solution to our braking problems versus using the OEM Pads.The part number was DP32246C which also fits land rover discovery sport and evoke 2015+. One other variation to the video that I did was I use the 9 mm deep well socket the back off of the electronic brake piston. I also used a Tesla 3 Jack pad which fits our Volvos perfectly. This is available on Amazon.

    26. #24
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      You can also use a 9v battery to spin it back (you’ll still need to squeeze the piston in). Non tutorial example here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/q772sfhx9zm1asg/IMG_2817.mov. Wasn’t trying to shoot a chrisfix video, more just a proof of concept since I’d only seen it discussed, not actually being done.

      This is the 9v battery case being used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H2BQ8HJ/. It also has some other wires crimped onto it to make the leads longer.

    27. #25
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      Just did my brake but now I get a P0171 error and check engine light. Not sure why as it doesn't appear to be related. Going to the dealer tomorrow.

      You have two options with the piston; either take the parking brake motor off and wind back manually or wind it back using a 9V.
      If using a 9V, you'll need the 9V, and wiring to connect the 9V to the leads for the parking brake motor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Black wire goes to the bottom lead and red goes to the upper lead. I would recommend a 3" extension for the socket ratchet if the motor is not coming off as access to one of the caliper pins might be restricted depending on the size of your ratchet.

      If taking the parking brake motor off, I would get wheel chocks as you will have to disable the parking brake (in beginning of OP's video). Better safe than sorry. If you don't/forget to disengage the parking brake, there will be too much tension preventing the removal of the parking brake motor. You'll also need 5mm hex bit (not 5/16 as mentioned in video) in order to remove the motor.

      7mm hex is for the calipers. I used a rewind tool to push back the piston (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). OEM pads come in RC01 and RC02 variants. I installed RC02 for MY18 XC60. I believe the difference between the two are friction code GG (RC01) vs HH (RC02) as per product image in FCP Euro site. My original pads had HH markings.

      As mentioned in other sites, if you disconnect the wiring from the parking brake motors, you may get a Parking Brake fault. I think it crops up if the parking brake was engaged when the wiring is disconnected. To reset:

      1.) First make sure the parking brake is not auto engaged at engine shutdown via Setting option (in video).
      2.) Disengage parking brake and then shutdown the vehicle.
      3.) Pump the brakes until they are stiff. Restart the engine.
      4.) At this point, the parking brake should NOT be engaged. If it is then it is very likely, step 1 was not saved into the driver profile. You will have to check the Profile setting to ensure the setting of not auto engaging the parking brake is "saved" to profile. Repeat back to step 1.
      5.) If you made it to this step, then your brakes should be stiff and the parking brake is NOT engaged. Engaging the parking brakes and let it wind till it stops. Disengage the parking brakes and let it wind to it stops. Repeat 3 or 4 times. The Parking Brake fault should disappear. Hope this helps.

    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by seawolf View Post
      If taking the parking brake motor off, I would get wheel chocks as you will have to disable the parking brake (in beginning of OP's video). Better safe than sorry. If you don't/forget to disengage the parking brake, there will be too much tension preventing the removal of the parking brake motor.
      Since the parking brake is part of the rear wheel brakes, wouldn't you loose the parking brake anyway
      when you replace the brake pads, whether you remove the parking brake motor or not?
      2018 XC90 T5 (5-seater)

    29. #27
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zahra View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by seawolf View Post
      If taking the parking brake motor off, I would get wheel chocks as you will have to disable the parking brake (in beginning of OP's video). Better safe than sorry. If you don't/forget to disengage the parking brake, there will be too much tension preventing the removal of the parking brake motor.
      Since the parking brake is part of the rear wheel brakes, wouldn't you loose the parking brake anyway
      when you replace the brake pads, whether you remove the parking brake motor or not?
      Assuming you do one wheel at a time, the parking brake on the other side is still engaged. 🙂

    30. #28
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      Quote Originally Posted by seawolf View Post
      Assuming you do one wheel at a time, the parking brake on the other side is still engaged. 🙂
      I understood that one needs to disengage the parking brake to release the tension on the motor.
      2018 XC90 T5 (5-seater)

    31. #29
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      It's really not that complicated with all these steps. Actually after I made my post above somehow this was in my youtube recs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8y54DKRHlAo. Even though this is not a SPA volvo it's the same procedure/idea. The 9v windback is the simplest option. I didn't get any parking brake faults or errors.

    32. #30
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zahra View Post
      I understood that one needs to disengage the parking brake to release the tension on the motor.
      The two options are either:
      Remove the parking brake motor which means parking brake should be disabled. Probably should use chock.

      Or wind it back with a 9v. This option would mean you can leave the parking brake engaged before work and wind back one side while the parking brake on the other side would still be engaged.

    33. #31
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      Quote Originally Posted by seawolf View Post
      Just did my brake but now I get a P0171 error and check engine light. Not sure why as it doesn't appear to be related. Going to the dealer tomorrow.

      You have two options with the piston; either take the parking brake motor off and wind back manually or wind it back using a 9V.
      If using a 9V, you'll need the 9V, and wiring to connect the 9V to the leads for the parking brake motor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Black wire goes to the bottom lead and red goes to the upper lead. I would recommend a 3" extension for the socket ratchet if the motor is not coming off as access to one of the caliper pins might be restricted depending on the size of your ratchet.

      If taking the parking brake motor off, I would get wheel chocks as you will have to disable the parking brake (in beginning of OP's video). Better safe than sorry. If you don't/forget to disengage the parking brake, there will be too much tension preventing the removal of the parking brake motor. You'll also need 5mm hex bit (not 5/16 as mentioned in video) in order to remove the motor.

      7mm hex is for the calipers. I used a rewind tool to push back the piston (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). OEM pads come in RC01 and RC02 variants. I installed RC02 for MY18 XC60. I believe the difference between the two are friction code GG (RC01) vs HH (RC02) as per product image in FCP Euro site. My original pads had HH markings.

      As mentioned in other sites, if you disconnect the wiring from the parking brake motors, you may get a Parking Brake fault. I think it crops up if the parking brake was engaged when the wiring is disconnected. To reset:

      1.) First make sure the parking brake is not auto engaged at engine shutdown via Setting option (in video).
      2.) Disengage parking brake and then shutdown the vehicle.
      3.) Pump the brakes until they are stiff. Restart the engine.
      4.) At this point, the parking brake should NOT be engaged. If it is then it is very likely, step 1 was not saved into the driver profile. You will have to check the Profile setting to ensure the setting of not auto engaging the parking brake is "saved" to profile. Repeat back to step 1.
      5.) If you made it to this step, then your brakes should be stiff and the parking brake is NOT engaged. Engaging the parking brakes and let it wind till it stops. Disengage the parking brakes and let it wind to it stops. Repeat 3 or 4 times. The Parking Brake fault should disappear. Hope this helps.
      Using a 9V battery was exactly what I did when I changed my rear brake pads. post #55 of the following thread:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ht=rear+brakes

      Everything worked great and I did not encounter the Parking Brake fault. I wished I could find the connector type to hook up instead of the alligator clips. Well, it's only once every 25-30k miles.

    34. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by tanXC90 View Post
      Using a 9V battery was exactly what I did when I changed my rear brake pads. post #55 of the following thread:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ht=rear+brakes

      Everything worked great and I did not encounter the Parking Brake fault. I wished I could find the connector type to hook up instead of the alligator clips. Well, it's only once every 25-30k miles.
      The first one took a while to hook up but for the second wheel, I just hooked up without a mirror (but did used it to check after each was clipped). The alligator clips I ordered from amazon had a protective sleeve to prevent the two wires touching each other. Since there is nothing else in that cavity, you can tell the clips were gripping by gently trying to pull the clip out and feeling physical resistance.

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