Does anyone know how difficult it is to replace the control arms?
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    1. #1
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      Does anyone know how difficult it is to replace the control arms?

      Hey guys, I cannot find a control arm replacement video for any p3 chassis. Have any of you done it? Wondering if I should tackle this myself or have a dealer do it.
      15 Volvo XC60 R-Design Platinum Pearl White Metallic, POLESTAR EXHAUST TDI Tuning Box, POLESTAR TUNED , IPD Rear Sway Bar and links, IPD POLY TORQUE ROD Koni FSD's, Eibach Loweing Springs, Powerflex Torque Bushing, Bloxsport wheel spacers
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    3. #2
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      I assume you mean the front. They aren't too bad if the ball joint comes out of the spindle easily. Otherwise it can be a pain, even on a lift.

    4. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      I assume you mean the front. They aren't too bad if the ball joint comes out of the spindle easily. Otherwise it can be a pain, even on a lift.
      Tech, thanks. I have a ball joint separator that I used on my outer tie rods. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...BoCAIAQAvD_BwE

      Would something like that work to seperate it, or do you need to wedge a ball joint separator in between the knuckle and ball joint?
      15 Volvo XC60 R-Design Platinum Pearl White Metallic, POLESTAR EXHAUST TDI Tuning Box, POLESTAR TUNED , IPD Rear Sway Bar and links, IPD POLY TORQUE ROD Koni FSD's, Eibach Loweing Springs, Powerflex Torque Bushing, Bloxsport wheel spacers
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    6. #4
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      No, that won't work. After removing the pinch bolt, you need to pry the control arm down to get the ball joint stud out of the spindle. I turn the wheel fully so I can use a chisel to spread the spindle slightly. This is usually not enough because the spindle actually wears a ridge that makes removing the ball joint difficult. Leverage is key. I use a very long pry bar to pry the arm downward. I usually have to give it a quick tug down and then let it go back up and keep doing that to work it out, soaking it with penetrant along the way.

      Once you do get it out, the rest is easy. While its out, use a round file to file the ridge smooth.

    7. #5
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      Sorry for the bad picture, but hope this helps you visualize what Tech is talking about after removing the ball joint to wheel knuckle bolt.

      Is this where you recommend prying from, Tech? Looks like that spot only works if you have a bar with a hook to pull down on not with a conventional pry bar.

      2005 S40 2.4i

    8. #6
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      That's the Volvo special tool. Ours is long gone.

      I pry with the handle of the pry bar toward the front of the car and the pointed end toward the seat, using either the tie rod or lift arm to pry against.

    9. #7
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      Damn, probably need a lift to get these out I am sure. I am going to give it a shot and see where it goes. Thanks for all the info and photos.
      15 Volvo XC60 R-Design Platinum Pearl White Metallic, POLESTAR EXHAUST TDI Tuning Box, POLESTAR TUNED , IPD Rear Sway Bar and links, IPD POLY TORQUE ROD Koni FSD's, Eibach Loweing Springs, Powerflex Torque Bushing, Bloxsport wheel spacers
      Sold: 2008 Volvo C30 2.0 Java/Cosmic White, Manual, Elevate Tune, Weird OEM Mood Lighting Kit, EST Catback Exhaust, Koni STR.T, H&R Springs, Injen Intake, 19' BBS SR Wheels, Ion Yellow Fogs,
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    10. #8
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      Another option is to remove the bolts that hold the arm to the subframe and pry the arm away so that end falls. Be sure to remove the axle bolt and push the axle inward as well. Then with it hanging and the ball joint pinch bolt remove, beat the hell out of the arm. I usually don't do this because most of the time if I'm disconnecting the ball joint it's for something other than replacing the arm.

    11. #9
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      That special tool isn't very strong. That hook that reaches over the control arm will bend on P3 control arms, but it works pretty well on P1 control arms. I've done the prybar method Tech mentions with a 48" prybar and that still requires a bit of effort.

      I have a ratcheting come-along that I use to pull the ball joint out of the knuckle. That takes much less effort but some setting up to work right.

      To the OP's question - no, it's not that hard to replace front control arms on XC60. If you have a lift. The nuts into which the bolts at the rear bushing screw into are actually nuts, not captured nuts, so you have to hold them from turning while you loosen the bolts. Those nuts and bolts also secure the front swaybar brackets, so you have to line everything up when you're going back together. It's not that hard but having a lift makes it much easier.
      Last edited by qaz996; 11-13-2019 at 10:23 PM.
      2007 S40 T5

    12. #10
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      I've seen the ratcheting come along method on I believe P2 control arms in VIDA.

      I made a bar like the special tool, and it probably worked fine for me because it was on a P1. P3 arms seems much beefier.

      On a side note, do Volvo shops have all the Volvo special tools? Or is it kind of at the discretion of the shop on what they supply and view the special tools as more of a suggestion from Volvo? To your point Tech, do dealers just let their service department find their own ways to get jobs done, and don't really care how it's done? Generally speaking.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    13. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      I've seen the ratcheting come along method on I believe P2 control arms in VIDA.

      I made a bar like the special tool, and it probably worked fine for me because it was on a P1. P3 arms seems much beefier.

      On a side note, do Volvo shops have all the Volvo special tools? Or is it kind of at the discretion of the shop on what they supply and view the special tools as more of a suggestion from Volvo? To your point Tech, do dealers just let their service department find their own ways to get jobs done, and don't really care how it's done? Generally speaking.
      Volvo dealers are supposed to have all the special tools but older, infrequently used special tools (like this control arm tool) often "disappear". Most service managers will replace critical special tools if they get damaged or go missing but techs oftentimes have work-around methods to not use certain special tools, because no - they don't care how a job gets done as long as it's a solid repair.
      2007 S40 T5

    14. #12
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      Volvo has a list of required special tools dealers are supposed to have. At my dealer, we have what we are required to have in most cases. If something breaks and we need it replaced, management usually has no problems buying another one. But that pry bar tool doesn't work well. It may have worked fine on a car with 10k miles, but that wasn't when we needed it. It doesn't do much good on a car that is 10 years old with 120k miles.

    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by qaz996 View Post
      because no - they don't care how a job gets done as long as it's a solid repair.
      That's good, because I'm sure there are always better and different ways to approach an issue. Glad to hear that generally service managers allow some "creative freedom"
      2005 S40 2.4i

    16. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      It doesn't do much good on a car that is 10 years old with 120k miles.
      Yes! I love the videos or demonstrations of special tools that show it on a brand new vehicle removing something. If only it was that easy 10 years down the road.

      Thanks to both of you for the info and insight! It's interesting to hear first hand "inside info".
      2005 S40 2.4i

    17. #15
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      I will be doing this probably in the spring when I also replace the struts. Looking forward to hearing your experience. On my S40, it was a pretty easy to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle.
      2013 XC60 T6
      2015 V60CC T5

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