Clunking in Rear from IPD RSB
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    1. #1
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      Clunking in Rear from IPD RSB

      So I've read about people getting a clunk in the rear end after installing the IPD sway bar and end links. I am now included in those people I believe. What exactly does the clunk come from and how do I address it. In addition. During installation I'm unsure of how much to actually tighten the end links up top as the flat part of the bar isn't perpendicular to the end links when the rear is lifted off the ground. If anyone who has dealt with this issue, please chime in, thanks!!

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      2015 Crystal White Pearl S60 T6 R-Design
      KPAX Catback Exhaust
      Powerflex Torque Rod Insert
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      18" Polestar Replicas

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    3. #2
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      I'm also interested in knowing if there's a remedy for that clunk.
      2012 S60 T5 Savile Gray/Beachwood

    4. #3
      Junior Member Sven787's Avatar
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      Following, and add me to this camp - I think anyway. I get an occasional clunk at the rear, but haven't done enough investigating and it doesn't happen consistently enough to know if it's the IPD sway bar or something shifting around in the back/trunk. I'm still riding on the stock end links but have the IPD HD ones to install when I get around to it. Maybe swapping them out will resolve the issue, at least temporarily.
      Current Fleet: 2007 XC90 V8 Sport (Titanium Gray); 2016 S60 T5 Drive-E Premier Polestar (Black Stone, Sport Pkg, Convenience Pkg, BLIS, Tech Pkg)
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    6. #4
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      That's crazy, I wonder if that's where my clunking g is also coming from.. Maybe the poly bushings need to be replaced? I've got like 60k on my bar and replaced the end links once already. Clunking may be the muffler rubbing on the tow bar, but I'm going to check tomorrow.
      Last edited by odiespankers07; 11-19-2019 at 11:30 PM.
      15 Volvo XC60 R-Design Platinum Pearl White Metallic, POLESTAR EXHAUST TDI Tuning Box, POLESTAR TUNED , IPD Rear Sway Bar and links, IPD POLY TORQUE ROD Koni FSD's, Eibach Loweing Springs, Powerflex Torque Bushing, Bloxsport wheel spacers
      Sold: 2008 Volvo C30 2.0 Java/Cosmic White, Manual, Elevate Tune, Weird OEM Mood Lighting Kit, EST Catback Exhaust, Koni STR.T, H&R Springs, Injen Intake, 19' BBS SR Wheels, Ion Yellow Fogs,
      SoldL 2006 Volvo V70R, Magic Blue, Stock

    7. #5
      Junior Member moyni's Avatar
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      Whenever I have gotten a noise from the rear in regards to new sway bar hardware, it has ALWAYS been that the top nuts were not tight enough. Even a VERY slight amount of play (maybe add a washer if you dont have one) can cause a noise. Honestly hand tools can only get a top nut so tight on these things, I have stuck to only using air guns to get them uber tight and never had a problem since.
      2012 S60 T6 R-Design w/ Polestar Tune
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      1997 960 Wagon
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    8. #6
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      Thanks Moyni. I will check and tighten mine this weekend.
      I had the ipd endlinks too but they didn't last long and had to put the OEMs back in (actually mechanic did it).
      If I had to but new endlinks I'll try something other than ipd.
      2012 S60 T5 Savile Gray/Beachwood

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by moyni View Post
      Whenever I have gotten a noise from the rear in regards to new sway bar hardware, it has ALWAYS been that the top nuts were not tight enough. Even a VERY slight amount of play (maybe add a washer if you dont have one) can cause a noise. Honestly hand tools can only get a top nut so tight on these things, I have stuck to only using air guns to get them uber tight and never had a problem since.
      So I had mine really tight at first, but it seems to squish the bushings, and I read somewhere they shouldn't be that tight. Tightening them down by hand is no issue, I just didn't want to over tighten them and then have the bushings be compromised. Has anyone used the Polestar Endlinks with the IPD bar? I know people have done it with the Elevate RSB.
      2015 Crystal White Pearl S60 T6 R-Design
      KPAX Catback Exhaust
      Powerflex Torque Rod Insert
      IPD Rear Sway Bar and Endlinks
      18" Polestar Replicas

    10. #8
      Junior Member moyni's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by willkoch1990 View Post
      So I had mine really tight at first, but it seems to squish the bushings, and I read somewhere they shouldn't be that tight. Tightening them down by hand is no issue, I just didn't want to over tighten them and then have the bushings be compromised. Has anyone used the Polestar Endlinks with the IPD bar? I know people have done it with the Elevate RSB.
      I dont trust the IPD end links, but I am running Polestar end links with Elevate RSB. I dont think the IPD ones are bored out enough to fit a Polestar end link. Also the Polestar end links dont use a top bushing so YMMV.
      2012 S60 T6 R-Design w/ Polestar Tune
      • H&R Lowering Springs
      • Elevate Sway Bar
      • Elevate Carbon Fibre Intake
      • Alexander Performance Turbo-back Exhaust
      • Hilton Stage 2+
      • Polestar Accessories

      1997 960 Wagon
      1996 850R Wagon - Sold

      Follow my builds at http://www.boostmoose.com

    11. #9
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      Zero clunks over here with IPD bar and links. I tightened everything at ride height and did not have the car off the ground.


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    12. #10
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      I lifted the car off the ground and tightened. Did not seem to make a difference.
      2012 S60 T5 Savile Gray/Beachwood

    13. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by sbchris View Post
      Zero clunks over here with IPD bar and links. I tightened everything at ride height and did not have the car off the ground.


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      How did you get on the top of the end links with the car down? Lmao

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      2015 Crystal White Pearl S60 T6 R-Design
      KPAX Catback Exhaust
      Powerflex Torque Rod Insert
      IPD Rear Sway Bar and Endlinks
      18" Polestar Replicas

    14. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by willkoch1990 View Post
      How did you get on the top of the end links with the car down? Lmao

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      Is this a serious question?

      Find the correct sized wrench, bend over, and snug them on level ground????

      I’m 6’4 235lb so if I can fit under a stock height r-design I’m pretty sure anyone can.







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    15. #13
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      Good advice from sbchris above.


      Also, you should determine if there is a compression limiter on that top bushing assembly. Often, when you have squishy rubber parts, the designer will include a small steel tube that goes in the ID of the bushing. The idea is that you make metal-to-metal contact when the proper squeeze has been achieved. It is very easy to detect as your are tightening down the nut.

      If you don't know if you have this, a phone call to the supplier is in order.

    16. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dyno View Post
      Good advice from sbchris above.


      Also, you should determine if there is a compression limiter on that top bushing assembly. Often, when you have squishy rubber parts, the designer will include a small steel tube that goes in the ID of the bushing. The idea is that you make metal-to-metal contact when the proper squeeze has been achieved. It is very easy to detect as your are tightening down the nut.

      If you don't know if you have this, a phone call to the supplier is in order.
      The IPD endlinks do not have a compression limiter.
      I'm not good, I'm not nice, I'm just right.
      2012 S60 T6 R-Design | 1998 S70 T5 SE | 1986 944 Turbo

    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by sbchris View Post
      Is this a serious question?

      Find the correct sized wrench, bend over, and snug them on level ground????

      I’m 6’4 235lb so if I can fit under a stock height r-design I’m pretty sure anyone can.

      Having a flex head, ratcheting combination wrench will help. Ours was a 13mm, IIRC. They should be available individually at Harbor Freight, Home Depot and the like.
      2016 XC70 2.5L T5 AWD, Platinum, Seashell/black, ipd rear bar, Curt hitch
      Previous Volvos: '16 V60CC, ours; '6? 145 & '7? 245, hers; '68 122S Wagon, his.
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    18. #16
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      Is it better to do it with the rear lifted or on the ground?
      2012 S60 T5 Savile Gray/Beachwood

    19. #17
      Junior Member db130's Avatar
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      I also used a flexhead ratcheting wrench for this job, but I did lift up the rear end of the car by using ramps.
      2002 V70 T5a 190k RTI/Hilton Stage 1/336mm brakes/Bilstein B8s/H&R springs
      2002 V70 NA 274k HU-803/T5 suspension/305mm brakes
      2003 V70 T5m 250k Hilton Stage 2/Delrin subframe bushings/R front sway bar/R manifold/Jetex catback/Re-Volv DP/Simota CCI
      2013 S60 T6 R-Design 68k IPD RSB

    20. #18
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      I randomly came across a thread while doing some other searching here, that noted that the clunking with aftermarket sway bars and end-links is typically from the end-link nuts backing themselves off over time with use and vibration. (noted by others in this thread too, obviously)

      That person/post also noted that the nuts that come with the IPD end links are not locking-type nuts. That person recommended trying to find some grade-8 lock nuts (aka "nylocks") or add some blue LocTite to the threads at installation.

      I haven't purchased an aftermarket set-up yet, so I can't speak from personal experience, but it seems like solid advice.
      Last edited by bincky; 12-06-2019 at 05:00 PM.
      2015 V60 T6 R-Design w/ Polestar tune
      Installed: Snabb MAF/air filter with Filterwears prefilter sock; Snabb intake pipe kit; Snabb charge pipe kit; do88 intercooler; Powerflex black torque arm bushing; IPD hi-flow downpipe; Elevate/KPAX cat-back exhaust
      Contemplating: Tune; Elevate intake manifold; modified turbo; suspension; wheels

    21. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by bincky View Post
      I randomly came across a thread while doing some other searching here, that noted that the clunking with aftermarket sway bars and end-links is typically from the end-link nuts backing themselves off over time with use and vibration. (noted by others in this thread too, obviously)

      That person/post also noted that the nuts that come with the IPD end links are not locking-type nuts. That person recommended trying to find some grade-8 lock nuts (aka "nylocks") or add some blue LocTite to the threads at installation.

      I haven't purchased an aftermarket set-up yet, so I can't speak from personal experience, but it seems like solid advice.
      The IPD end links I bought this past spring came with nylock nuts.
      I'm not good, I'm not nice, I'm just right.
      2012 S60 T6 R-Design | 1998 S70 T5 SE | 1986 944 Turbo

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by zenmervolt View Post
      The IPD end links I bought this past spring came with nylock nuts.
      Good to know! Thanks! It very well might have been a pretty old post...and maybe their kit evolved over time. Who knows...but that's good reassurance since their sway bar and end links are on my list.
      2015 V60 T6 R-Design w/ Polestar tune
      Installed: Snabb MAF/air filter with Filterwears prefilter sock; Snabb intake pipe kit; Snabb charge pipe kit; do88 intercooler; Powerflex black torque arm bushing; IPD hi-flow downpipe; Elevate/KPAX cat-back exhaust
      Contemplating: Tune; Elevate intake manifold; modified turbo; suspension; wheels

    23. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by bincky View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by zenmervolt View Post
      The IPD end links I bought this past spring came with nylock nuts.
      Good to know! Thanks! It very well might have been a pretty old post...and maybe their kit evolved over time. Who knows...but that's good reassurance since their sway bar and end links are on my list.
      I recall hearing that IPD did revise their end link design, but I cannot find proof and may be misremembering. Regardless, you can see the nylon insert in the locknut in this photo from them: https://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/image...size_10296.jpg
      I'm not good, I'm not nice, I'm just right.
      2012 S60 T6 R-Design | 1998 S70 T5 SE | 1986 944 Turbo

    24. #22
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      suspension components in general are to be loosely tightened after installation, the car is then lowered to the ground and then finally tightened. Whether this stops this problem or not, that is the correct way to install.

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