V50 Electrical Gremlins
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    1. #1
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      V50 Electrical Gremlins

      Since owning my V50 I have noticed certain electrical gremlins surfacing once every year or two. The windshield wipers will go crazy and only turn off when the car is shut down, and turn signals won't work, hi-beams won't work, etc. It all happens at the same time and it's maddening.

      In the past I have taken the CEM out from under the glovebox, removed the relays and multi-pin connectors and gave everything a good bath with contact cleaner. Then it's magically fixed. I read from other forum users that they replaced the relay responsible for the wipers, etc. I replaced that relay about a year or so ago, and well it just happened again. I had the battery replaced for good measure but also did the usual cleaning of the CEM and now things seem back to normal.

      Does this mirror anyone else's experience with their P1? I've put so much money into this thing it's ridiculous. This happened just last Friday and over the weekend I was bound and determined to just get a new car. But if I want a wagon that isn't hideous my options are Alltrak (seems they have epic issues with leaking sunroofs regardless of the drains being clogged) or a V90/V60. I really don't want a car payment right now, so I guess I'm going to soldier on with this V50 and probably dump more money into it soon for brakes and new front LCA's (to try and get rid of the godforsaken vibration).

      Sorry for the rant. A car being paid off is nice, but there comes a time... and I'm getting flippin' close.
      '06 T5 AWD V50 6MT - stock

      '99 Ford Contour SVT - not stock

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    3. #2
      Did you check for the infamous heater core leak that causes random shorting issues on the CEM? Any signs coolant is coming out of there and dripping/drying/evaporating?

      I get that it is frustrating, do you by chance have aftermarket lights in there causing the fated issues associated with the PWM system and the windshield wipers specifically?

      The way I look at this car to not get pissed off with everyone and everything from the designers to the dealerships to the people that had it before me - is that every part I replace means I have one less part to fail on me, by surprise that is.
      Where's your vibration coming from? Wheels? I found out mine were the 65.1mm centerhub bore was causing my issue, so come summer they should be fixed and keep me vibration free for the remainder of their time.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    4. #3
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      I haven't had any indication of a heater core leaking. There has been zero residue or anything on the CEM, so I don't think that would be it. Worth a look though.

      What are you referring to with the centerhub bore? Are you saying you need to replace the hubs? Why would your bore be off? I may be thinking about it wrong. My vibration is in the steering wheel/wheels. I swear I can hear the tire slap too. I was about to replace the LCA's as a hail mary. Running aftermarket 18's that have been balanced a bazillion times with multiple sets of tires.
      '06 T5 AWD V50 6MT - stock

      '99 Ford Contour SVT - not stock

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    6. #4
      Quote Originally Posted by MurrrC01 View Post
      I haven't had any indication of a heater core leaking. There has been zero residue or anything on the CEM, so I don't think that would be it. Worth a look though.

      What are you referring to with the centerhub bore? Are you saying you need to replace the hubs? Why would your bore be off? I may be thinking about it wrong. My vibration is in the steering wheel/wheels. I swear I can hear the tire slap too. I was about to replace the LCA's as a hail mary. Running aftermarket 18's that have been balanced a bazillion times with multiple sets of tires.
      Hrm. Thinking about this some more - have you every completely disassembled the CEM and dumped it in an alcohol bath and then dried it off and reassembled everything? An occasional short could be caused by waiting for a charge to reach the potential needed to bridge the gap between some residue on the board and then shorting out from there - would explain it's randomness and how it rarely happens - humidity, air temp, everything comes into play there to help and hurt, do you notice a pattern with the weather when it happened to you in the past?

      To answer your questions first:
      What are you referring to the centerhub bore? The centerbore of the rim itself, where the lip on the bearing goes into and absorbs some of the force involved with the rotating bodies.
      Are you saying you need to replace the hubs? No. No replacement is needed, there are alternative and cheaper options to fix this issue if it is in fact, your issue.
      Why would your bore be off? The guy I bought the rims from said they came from a V50 and I assumed they'd fit no issues. Well it turns out 2008+ V50's have a 65.1mm centerhub bore according to some charts online, My OEM rims are a 63.4mm centerhub bore and don't have the same issues the new rims did.

      As for the vibration, I was in the same boat - replaced LCA's, struts, axles, bearings, knuckles, rotors, inner and outer tie rod ends, and nothing helped, tires replaced and rebalanced and road balanced 3x. Bright side is new front end at 150,000mi, downside, didn't solve the problem. It would rock the steering wheel back and forth gently when the car was hot and driving on the highway, and applying the brakes a little would cause the wobble to worsen like warped rotors, and applying the brakes a lot would cause it to become practically normal and smooth.

      Then someone on here mentioned the center bore which I dismissed because the PO of the wheels said they came from a V50. Then I took a ruler and put it on the centerbore of the rim because I decided at very least he could be right and the PO of the rims might be a turd. Centerbore on our 06's is 63.4mm (63.35mm being the actual outer edge on the bearing as measured). The rims I had a centerbore of 65.1mm, meaning that 1.7mm difference was causing me my issue. I found some aluminum rings on Amazon for $15.99 to fill in the gap and life's back to being awesome. Looking it up, it appears according to one chart that 2008+ V50's came with a different centerbore.

      It is possible that whoever did your tires and rims in the first place didn't measure your centerbore correctly and didn't put in the correct rings (if any) to keep it aligned properly. Rings can go from as thin as mine above to 8 or 9mm thick, and all depends on the rims you got. Worth a look maybe. I used a ruler, so it's easy and cheap to do. I figured if it was tighter than theorized I would get a bore gauge and check it out, but it was fairly obvious it was at the 65mm line.
      TireRack's bit on the centerbore: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=91
      Last edited by avenger09123; 11-21-2019 at 08:14 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    7. #5
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      I have actually taken the CEM out completely once, the other couple of times I just unplugged everything and generously sprayed contact cleaner throughout it and the components. Each time that has fixed it, until it does it again about a year or so later. Come to think of it I do feel like it happens in the fall but not sure I could pinpoint anything further. I think it happened in the spring once too.

      The description of how and when your vibrations come and go sound EXACTLY like mine. I have hubcentric rings on my 18" Andros Spec G's but potentially not the right ones? I'm definitely going to look further into this.
      '06 T5 AWD V50 6MT - stock

      '99 Ford Contour SVT - not stock

    8. #6
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      I just checked with Tirerack to see what the center bore on my wheels is, and instead of answering the question he said he'd just shoot me out some new rings. I confirmed with him they're 63.4mm, leading me to believe that's what they sent me before and what is on there currently. Worth a shot.
      '06 T5 AWD V50 6MT - stock

      '99 Ford Contour SVT - not stock

    9. #7
      Quote Originally Posted by MurrrC01 View Post
      I just checked with Tirerack to see what the center bore on my wheels is, and instead of answering the question he said he'd just shoot me out some new rings. I confirmed with him they're 63.4mm, leading me to believe that's what they sent me before and what is on there currently. Worth a shot.
      Free rings, sweet.
      I just looked up Andros's Spec line - it appears universally across the board their centerbore is 65.1mm for the common man's car - to the tune of not fitting larger hubs either.

      How were yours to put in or did they come in the rim already? When I pushed mine into the rim, I was able to do it with my hand but it was TIGHT. As in after I cleaned the centerbore I had to push the ring in evenly for it to go in all the way with a palm and then give it the double thumb treatment around the edge until fully seated.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    10. #8
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      I've had three sets of rings on there already. The plastic ones that came with the wheels, then metal ones TireRack sent me when I told them of my ongoing wobble issue, then back to plastic (new set) as the metal ones were corroding and binding. All of them have been super easy to push in by hand, and at least one typically falls out of the wheel every time I swap my winters/summers. Mine just kind of lay in there nice and easy. Is that a bad thing?
      '06 T5 AWD V50 6MT - stock

      '99 Ford Contour SVT - not stock

    11. #9
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      The wipers turn on when the CEM looses contact with the SWM, Steering Wheel Module. The logic is when the CEM can not or looses communication with the SWM the wipers turn on.
      The turn signal switch and the wiper switch are plugged into the SWM. When the CEM looses comm with the SWM it turns on the wipers because the CEM does
      know if it is raining or not.
      When you remove the the connectors from the CEM and everything works correctly when plugged back in, it is probably a pin tension issue from the connector(s) at the CEM.
      You would see if water or pin corrosion was the issue upon closer inspection.
      Check this out, https://www.amazon.com/Stabilant-5ml.../dp/B001E50GQS It is called Stabilant 22. Mix as directed, turn bottle upside down over
      the female pins for all connectors. Squeeze slightly to put Stabilant 22 into each pin hole. This will create a tighter connection between the male and female pins.
      This may solve your problem. Google stabilant22 read reviews on Amazon.

    12. #10
      Quote Originally Posted by volvogod View Post
      The wipers turn on when the CEM looses contact with the SWM, Steering Wheel Module. The logic is when the CEM can not or looses communication with the SWM the wipers turn on.
      The turn signal switch and the wiper switch are plugged into the SWM. When the CEM looses comm with the SWM it turns on the wipers because the CEM does
      know if it is raining or not.
      When you remove the the connectors from the CEM and everything works correctly when plugged back in, it is probably a pin tension issue from the connector(s) at the CEM.
      You would see if water or pin corrosion was the issue upon closer inspection.
      Check this out, https://www.amazon.com/Stabilant-5ml.../dp/B001E50GQS It is called Stabilant 22. Mix as directed, turn bottle upside down over
      the female pins for all connectors. Squeeze slightly to put Stabilant 22 into each pin hole. This will create a tighter connection between the male and female pins.
      This may solve your problem. Google stabilant22 read reviews on Amazon.
      Does this require the use of a rain sensor to be true - or is it it true for those of us without the rain sensor as well?
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    13. #11
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      Well, it did it again this morning. Started the car up (it was in the garage all night) and wipers went crazy, turn signals didn't work, etc. I turned the car off, popped the CEM open, ripped that one relay out and sprayed it, stuck it back in and all was fine. Not frustrating at all...
      '06 T5 AWD V50 6MT - stock

      '99 Ford Contour SVT - not stock

    14. #12
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      c3 Picture of Electrical Schematic

      I Take It U Checked all the Ground , and Looked for Ionization Creeping Up the Wires . .
      PS: You have to take same Gauge Wire as Feeds & Length - to get OHMs reading , then Check the Feeds ..
      Grounds I'd Increase in Size . . ( I Placed Extra Grounds on My Chassis ..) for Reference see Picture . .


      PB272410.jpg




      Hubs :
      Does anyone Remember about the Hub Gap Spacing , Volvo Issues a Safety Kit to Shore Up _ Tighten Up the Gap - to also Keep the Hubs from Damage or was It Falling Off ?
      Last edited by EngTech; 11-29-2019 at 06:41 PM.
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    15. #13
      Quote Originally Posted by EngTech View Post
      Hubs :
      Does anyone Remember about the Hub Gap Spacing , Volvo Issues a Safety Kit to Shore Up _ Tighten Up the Gap - to also Keep the Hubs from Damage or was It Falling Off ?
      My hubs outside have a press-till-flush lip on them. The safety kit was to prevent the bearing from walking back out of the knuckle. Lowered guys at a bigger risk of this.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    16. #14
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      Well it happened again this morning leaving for work. I shut the car off, pulled the relay responsible for wipers, sprayed contact cleaner, pushed it back in, started and all was normal. Leaving from dinner tonight and it happened yet again. I think I should try some of that Stabilint 22 volvogod recommended. Worth a try. Otherwise this car has one foot in the grave.
      '06 T5 AWD V50 6MT - stock

      '99 Ford Contour SVT - not stock

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