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    1. #1
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Vibration at Idle

      Hey, guys.

      2013 3.2 80k

      So the car has a very tight, stiff, and quick vibration at idle, both in park and drive. It's not violent at all, but it is noticeable through feel (the steering wheel is the most noticeable), and I can also hear it clearly. It presents itself as almost a buffeting of air pressure within the cabin. My question is, is this typical of the XC90, or should I start giving my motor and transmission mounts a closer inspection?

      With my XC90 being brand new to me, as well as being my first Volvo, getting used to this car and all of it's eccentricities will be interesting. I have only driven a few XC90s for test driving purposes prior to buying mine, so I can't tell just yet if something is a normality, or something that needs to be looked into. I have always done my own wrenching for the most part, but it has always been on older German vehicles. Mechanically, Volvos are all new to me, so I'm looking for a bit of insight here. I'm sure i'll be poking in for more insight in the future here as well.

      Thanks,
      -Cam

      Edit: *vibration at idle, both in park and drive* with foot on the brake. I notice no vibration once I get moving. Over harsh bumps, everything feels nice and tight/smooth. So if it ends up being mount related, I don't think it's going to be a horrible job.
      Last edited by 09mageec; 11-26-2019 at 09:08 AM.

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    3. #2
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      The XC90 should be nicely quiet and vibration free. Mine, at 90,000 had a compressed upper torque mount, and a failed aft hydraulic engine mount. The left aft mount had simply started drooling fluid. Here's a simple way to identify what keeps the engine under the hood: Mounts It's specific to my '09, but you can change that. FCP, has a great lifetime parts program as well as competitively priced parts of many sources. That being said, my hydraulic mount came from a closeout sale at Rock, but the torque rod was from FCP.
      You could probably get stuff over the counter, if they have one, since you're both in CT. Wish there was a FCP here in San Diego.
      2009 XC90 FWD 3.2, 2013 S60 T5
      In the past: '89 745, '91 940, '82 242, '67 122S, '67 123GT, '71 142E, '62 PV544.

    4. #3
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      Vibration in park and drive? Sounds like a motor mount issue. I'd start my sweep there. Get ready for a bit of fun though as the 3.2 has FIVE of them. Why so many? Dunno, guess the Swedes feel more is better.

      If you have to replace them, make sure you find someone who knows what they are doing. The rear motor mount is a bear to reach. They'll need long extension sockets and the motor and transmission need to be supported and titled to extract and replace the mount. Don't try to muscle it or else it will either never seat properly or prematurely fail.
      2009 XC90 3.2 AWD l Oyster Grey / Bi-Xenon / Dynaudio / BLIS / VNS / RSE / THULE Aeroblade

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    6. #4
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      Like others are saying, the engine mounts may need to be replaced. If it is not the mileage, then age gets to the rubber.

      Good maintenance helps. Old or wrong fluids can contribute. Changing the old transmission fluid helps with this issue. Also, ensuring you have the correct spark plugs may be another contributor. So, it might not be one thing, but a collection of regular wear and maintenance items.

      For 3.2 specific maintenance and fluids, check out this link: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...d-and-the-ugly
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 143k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    7. #5
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Thanks for all of the replies thus far, guys.

    8. #6
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Vibration at Idle

      Also, is there a vehicle diagram for the XC90 and it's variants available online? Maybe even a full parts catalog?
      Last edited by 09mageec; 11-26-2019 at 03:05 PM.

    9. #7
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...-Download-Link for a link to VIDA
      https://parts.volvocarslisle.com/a/V...GR-380619.html for a link to a 3.2 engine mount parts list and diagram.
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 198k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 127k

    10. #8
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Beautiful, thank you!


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    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by 09mageec View Post
      Also, are is there a vehicle diagram for the XC90 and it's variants available online? Maybe even a full parts catalog?
      VIDA has the repair procedures and parts catalogs in the software. It can be downloaded for free and installed on either a native Win7 64bit Pro system (the most sure fire way), or, on Virtual machines in both Win10 or Mac. 32 bit windows varients seem to be more difficult.
      VIDA is designed to be used with a CanBus reader called a DICE unit, but it works without it or communicating with the car. DICE units are available on eBay and Amazon for less than $100. Highly recommended.
      The download source is HERE
      It is in the VIDA-Canbus thread HERE
      For parts, there are many sites with diagrams, but the ones I find easiest to use are Volvo and Tasca;
      https://www.volvopartswebstore.com
      https://www.tascaparts.com
      Both have genuine parts diagrams by Volvo, the same as in VIDA.
      FCP Euro has a lot of good how-to videos on YouTube, or can be found linked from their site. Just about any search phrase for XC90 repairs will return YouTube video hits, but beware that some of the videos are decidedly amateur in every respect.
      Plain speech Google queries are really good at finding what you need. Sometimes, the more specific the query, the better the results. It seems to me that Google searches are much better for automotive than many other subjects, but that's probably because Google knows, by now, what I drive, the color, the trim level, the VIN. mileage, and my activity on my Carfax maintenance account
      2009 XC90 FWD 3.2, 2013 S60 T5
      In the past: '89 745, '91 940, '82 242, '67 122S, '67 123GT, '71 142E, '62 PV544.

    12. #10
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Thank you so much for all of the information. Iíll start poking around. Love looking at diagrams and part lists. I probably know every piece, nut and bolt it takes to build my old 911 after all the time Iíve spend looking it over. Thanks again!


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    13. #11
      Junior Member generic_volvo_driver's Avatar
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      My 2013 has the exact same problem. I've detailed my story here: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...t-idle-driving

      I changed all 5 of my mounts/torque rods/side mount with OEM mounts. This reduced the problem but it's no where near perfect. My XC60's engine vibrates the same amount (ex: if you put your hand on the engine) but there is no vibration in the cabin or through the steering wheel. My next thing to try is installing sub-frame bushing inserts.

      I'm also wondering if my resonator is part of the problem. If I increase the RPM even a tiny amount the vibration and drone disappears. Next summer I may disconnect the exhaust at the cats and test my theory.

      The engine mounts are not bad at all to change on the 3.2. You can do it with two jack stands and a floor jack under the engine/trans. Just take your time. The rear motor mount heat shield takes time to remove due to clearance.
      Last edited by generic_volvo_driver; 11-26-2019 at 11:15 PM.
      2013 Volvo XC90 AWD Platinum (Caspian Blue Metallic, climate package, walnut inlays + wheel, BLIS, active bi-xenon headlights) 140k km
      2012 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD Platinum (Technology package, climate package) 25k km
      2003 Acura TL Type S A-Spec (2007 Accord V6 transmission swap, Tein SS, all available engine bolt ons, exhaust, Apexi AFC, etc.) 108k km
      1988 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (2+2, T-top, Aztec Red, collector plates) 80k km

    14. #12
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Very interesting. See, this sounds a lot like mine, concerning the vibration disappearing when rpm is increased even slightly. I'm not sure if you're saying this is the case with your XC90 or your XC60, but either way, that's precisely what happens with mine. Only at idle is there any vibration with drone/buffeting. A very gentle bit of pressure on the gas pedal, and everything smooths out.

      Edit: I just read through your thread on trying to diagnose this. It seems as if your vibration had time to develop into one that was a bit more harsh than mine. That being said, mine is still totally noticeable, and I'd really like to get this sorted out. So you never ended up replacing that Center Resonator? I remember the first time I picked up on the vibration, I immediately thought it could be exhaust related, as it almost felt as if it was resonating from the center of the vehicle.
      Last edited by 09mageec; 11-27-2019 at 06:38 AM.

    15. #13
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      So, I also experienced the vibration on idle and it is still not 100% gone, but not noticeable unless you look for it. I changed all my mounts, center resonator (removed some drone I didn't realize I had), and all my fluids. All the maintenance has been done, but at times it would shake.

      After all of that, what smoothed it out for me the most was using the Ravenol T-IV transmission fluid. It has a lower viscosity when cold and is more thermally stable when hot, than conventional T-IV or JWS 3309.

      I am sure if I didn't do all the other maintenance then it wouldn't be as smooth as now. They had to or should have been done anyways.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 143k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    16. #14
      Junior Member generic_volvo_driver's Avatar
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      Totally! Between the two of us let's try and sort it out. Sounds like the same problem. Too much of a coincidence both our '13's have this... I'll send you my production number to compare.

      I was trying to say that the I6 in my XC60 has no cabin vibration even though the engine itself still vibrates in the bay. If you were to compare by feeling both engines with your hand, they're about the same. The XC90 though translates that vibration right into the cabin and through the steering wheel.

      I never did the center resonator... if the weather is good this December (no rain) I'll try to test this on my holidays. This is good motivation to sort this out.

      I also have changed my transmission fluid twice to Toyota WS (no improvement in vibration but an improvement in shifting).
      2013 Volvo XC90 AWD Platinum (Caspian Blue Metallic, climate package, walnut inlays + wheel, BLIS, active bi-xenon headlights) 140k km
      2012 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD Platinum (Technology package, climate package) 25k km
      2003 Acura TL Type S A-Spec (2007 Accord V6 transmission swap, Tein SS, all available engine bolt ons, exhaust, Apexi AFC, etc.) 108k km
      1988 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (2+2, T-top, Aztec Red, collector plates) 80k km

    17. #15
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Vibration at Idle

      Quote Originally Posted by generic_volvo_driver View Post
      Totally! Between the two of us let's try and sort it out.
      Iím in for that! We have a very, very well respected Volvo mechanic in the area at European Auto Ltd. So after the holiday, I plan to take it to the gentleman there for a ďpost purchase inspectionĒ. Iíll be sure to get his take on this.

      The only other thing that I have noticed in this car aside from the vibration thatís been bothering me, is a noticeable metallic *click* coming from the front, bottom end when switching from park to reverse, or vice versa.


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    18. #16
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      All cleaned up for the turkey day commute. Happy Thanksgiving, all!




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    19. #17
      Member ggleavitt's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by 09mageec View Post
      .... The only other thing that I have noticed in this car aside from the vibration thatís been bothering me, is a noticeable metallic *click* coming from the front, bottom end when switching from park to reverse, or vice versa.
      See https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...-D-(Axle-ping) and https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...e-clunks-ideas for a couple examples of this, I still don't know the cause of the sound but I've heard it in one form or another on my '08 since taking ownership. My best guess is the torque converter as the cause, in the TF-80SC Gen2 (post chassis 568001) a new TC is implemented which has another set of springs for the long term damper (LTD), with sound reduction at low speed lock noted for the reason. I drive the '08 pretty actively, if this was a mechanical "problem" I would have broken something (other than my angle gear) outright by now.
      2005 XC90 B5254T2 019 198k
      2008 XC90 B8444S Sport 452 127k

    20. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by 09mageec View Post
      All cleaned up for the turkey day commute. Happy Thanksgiving, all!




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      I'm suddenly more interested in the Carrera 3.0 hiding in the background.
      2009 XC90 3.2 AWD l Oyster Grey / Bi-Xenon / Dynaudio / BLIS / VNS / RSE / THULE Aeroblade

    21. #19
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ShadowDancer View Post
      I'm suddenly more interested in the Carrera 3.0 hiding in the background.
      The ones in back are why I bought the one in front!


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    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by ShadowDancer View Post
      Vibration in park and drive? Sounds like a motor mount issue. I'd start my sweep there. Get ready for a bit of fun though as the 3.2 has FIVE of them. Why so many? Dunno, guess the Swedes feel more is better.

      If you have to replace them, make sure you find someone who knows what they are doing. The rear motor mount is a bear to reach. They'll need long extension sockets and the motor and transmission need to be supported and titled to extract and replace the mount. Don't try to muscle it or else it will either never seat properly or prematurely fail.
      Actually, 2011-on has SIX mounts. There's another torque mount on the lower passenger side. It's cheap, so it's not really any more painful on the wallet.

      Most likely culprit for cabin noise has to be the passenger side upper, as it's the only one not anchored to the uni-body instead of the sub-frame.

      I did all 6 mounts on my 2011, and found that all the mounts fail as a system. There are three "true" mounts, and three torque rods that keep the engine from moving. When a mount sags, it puts load on the torque rods at rest, and they all get deformed.

      I did use the IPD poly transmission torque rod. It was fine in terms of NVH in the warmer weather, but I think in cooler temps it becomes a little too rigid. I'm noticing a little vibration at cold idle. Just a guess. The OEM part is almost a joke, IMHO. I don't know why there isn't an alternative between the almost useless factory style and poly.

      -Ryan
      Too many cars...
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2016 Fiat 500X (Wife-mobile)

    23. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by ShadowDancer View Post
      I'm suddenly more interested in the Carrera 3.0 hiding in the background.
      Me too! Show us pics of the Porsche!

      I bought the XC90 to keep the summer fleet off the salty roads.... but mine are just more, older, Volvos.

      -Ryan
      Too many cars...
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2016 Fiat 500X (Wife-mobile)

    24. #22
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      Actually, 2011-on has SIX mounts. There's another torque mount on the lower passenger side. It's cheap, so it's not really any more painful on the wallet.

      Most likely culprit for cabin noise has to be the passenger side upper, as it's the only one not anchored to the uni-body instead of the sub-frame.

      I did all 6 mounts on my 2011, and found that all the mounts fail as a system. There are three "true" mounts, and three torque rods that keep the engine from moving. When a mount sags, it puts load on the torque rods at rest, and they all get deformed.

      I did use the IPD poly transmission torque rod. It was fine in terms of NVH in the warmer weather, but I think in cooler temps it becomes a little too rigid. I'm noticing a little vibration at cold idle. Just a guess. The OEM part is almost a joke, IMHO. I don't know why there isn't an alternative between the almost useless factory style and poly.

      -Ryan
      All good info! Great forum so far!


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    25. #23
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      A good place to start is the upper torque rod. I looked at mine several times, and could see nothing wrong. That was because the failed end is under the aluminum casting. One day, I grabbed the rod and gave it a shake. To my surprise, the thing rattled like crazy. I took it off and saw that the rubber insert on the engine end had become smaller than the boss it was in, and was quite loose. I ordered a new one right away, but since the thing was off, I pumped the vacant spaces in the boss with black silicone gasket goop and let it cure overnight. After refitting the brace, the noise that I had at 30-50 mph since buying the car went away. It only happened while driving while neither on or off the gas.
      I'm not suggesting that that is responsible for your situation(s), but that torque rod is like the Canary in the Coal mine, it seems to me. It likely goes first, then allows the engine to rotate and cause problems with the two left-side mounts. Sounds like a good theory, anyway
      I still wonder how long the silicone fix would last.
      2009 XC90 FWD 3.2, 2013 S60 T5
      In the past: '89 745, '91 940, '82 242, '67 122S, '67 123GT, '71 142E, '62 PV544.

    26. #24
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      Me too! Show us pics of the Porsche!
      Sorry it took me a few days to reply. Itís a Ď79 SC, 80,000 miles. Itís far from pretty, but mechanically, itís it in tip top shape.




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    27. #25
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      Actually, 2011-on has SIX mounts. There's another torque mount on the lower passenger side. It's cheap, so it's not really any more painful on the wallet.

      Most likely culprit for cabin noise has to be the passenger side upper, as it's the only one not anchored to the uni-body instead of the sub-frame.

      I did all 6 mounts on my 2011, and found that all the mounts fail as a system. There are three "true" mounts, and three torque rods that keep the engine from moving. When a mount sags, it puts load on the torque rods at rest, and they all get deformed.

      I did use the IPD poly transmission torque rod. It was fine in terms of NVH in the warmer weather, but I think in cooler temps it becomes a little too rigid. I'm noticing a little vibration at cold idle. Just a guess. The OEM part is almost a joke, IMHO. I don't know why there isn't an alternative between the almost useless factory style and poly.

      -Ryan
      LMAO. So in 2011 Volvo engineers decided, 6 cylinders? 5 mounts? No that would only make sense for the 5 cylinder. Sven, I want you to add an extra mount. for an even 6.
      2009 XC90 3.2 AWD l Oyster Grey / Bi-Xenon / Dynaudio / BLIS / VNS / RSE / THULE Aeroblade

    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by 09mageec View Post
      Sorry it took me a few days to reply. Itís a Ď79 SC, 80,000 miles. Itís far from pretty, but mechanically, itís it in tip top shape.
      Thanks for the photos! Purty! I'll always have a soft spot for those. No idea why. Gorgeous cars.

      -Ryan
      Too many cars...
      1987 Volvo 245
      1989 Volvo 245
      1991 Volvo 745 Dog Waggin' 2.0
      1995 Volvo 945 Turbo
      2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD
      2016 Fiat 500X (Wife-mobile)

    29. #27
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      Quote Originally Posted by RyanR View Post
      Thanks for the photos! Purty! I'll always have a soft spot for those. No idea why. Gorgeous cars.

      -Ryan
      Oh there's plenty.
      A real gearbox with three pedals.
      Lightweight and fun to drive.
      You can see the engine. You can work on the engine. Hell, you can work on most anything with simple Harry Home Owner grade tools.
      No confounding web of electronics and things the manufacturer did to keep you from servicing your own vehicle.
      and on and on...
      2009 XC90 3.2 AWD l Oyster Grey / Bi-Xenon / Dynaudio / BLIS / VNS / RSE / THULE Aeroblade

    30. #28
      Junior Member 09mageec's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ShadowDancer View Post
      Oh there's plenty.
      A real gearbox with three pedals.
      Lightweight and fun to drive.
      You can see the engine. You can work on the engine. Hell, you can work on most anything with simple Harry Home Owner grade tools.
      No confounding web of electronics and things the manufacturer did to keep you from servicing your own vehicle.
      and on and on...
      Mah man!


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