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A few minor (?) issues...

3K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  Phixion 
#1 · (Edited)
Recently I've began noticing a noticeable clunk coming from the rear of the car when braking while in reverse. Seems to only happen when the car is cold, and only the first half dozen stops if I roll or move and intentionally cause it to happen. Hoping it's not an Ebrake shoe issue of a loose liner... Ebrake does work like normal though, so..?

Other issue, also recently upon a cold start and engine has been sitting for several hours or overnight, I'm getting a red triangle upon startup that goes away once the car has begun warming up past about 110F (needle begins moving from the left). I ran VIDA on a run cycle of the occurrence, and got nothing of anything wrong that would be causing it, other than a UEM-0C00 which VIDA says there's no match for that code nor could I find anything online about that code. :confused: Car runs totally fine while triangle is red, and there's no Check Engine lamp on during it either.

Last issue, my lock ring light no longer illuminates. This DID cause a VIDA fault of CEM-8D02 "Ignition Lamp and High Mounted Stop Lamps signal too high/signal missing".... Ironically I did have burned out brake light bulb which didn't cause the bulb out dash lamp to light, strange... In any event, replaced the brake light bulb, but the lock ring light is definitely not working. I tried looking up info on it, but found not much on Google. Also doesn't seem to be it's own part either and integrated with the lock ring itself? Can the bulb be replaced itself, and is it a standard bulb, or LED? Could I retrofit it with an LED if it's a standard bulb?
EDIT: Looks like I have my answer to this one here... Appears to be a T3 (or T4?) size bulb like is used in the CCM illumination of which I have plenty of LEDs of and in different colors from when I re-bulbed mine some months ago. :D :thumbup: Should be an easy enough fix hopefully.
 
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#2 ·
I can only offer some feedback on the clunk in reverse. Had a similar issue when braking or backing up over some transition in pavement. I replaced my rear sway bar and end links and haven’t had the sound return in my most recent trips. Something to listen for since the rubber was worn and compressed.


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#3 ·
I can only offer some feedback on the clunk in reverse. Had a similar issue when braking or backing up over some transition in pavement. I replaced my rear sway bar and end links and haven't had the sound return in my most recent trips. Something to listen for since the rubber was worn and compressed.

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That's actually quite helpful, thanks! I happen to have a set of T5 sway bars that have brand new Energy poly bushings that I bought from a member on here, that I need to install. [emoji106]

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#6 ·
Thanks Rick!! Happy holidays to you as well! [emoji106]

I'm prepared for should the linings to be loose. I do fortunately have brand new shoes and hardware on hand in case. That's probably an easier take a peek and fix than the sway bar from what I understand, lol.

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Sway bar is an effort and if you asked me to do it again, I'd hire it out. [emoji23]

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#8 ·
When was the last time you replaced the parking brake shoes? My pads delaminated and were jiggling around in there when I upgraded to R calipers/brakes front and rear, but the parking brake still worked fine.

Also, the rear sway bar was a real pain. I thought it was more difficult than the front since the rear springs and exhaust were in the way. My experience was from an IPD track rear sway though so YMMV.
 
#9 ·
When was the last time you replaced the parking brake shoes? My pads delaminated and were jiggling around in there when I upgraded to R calipers/brakes front and rear, but the parking brake still worked fine.

Also, the rear sway bar was a real pain. I thought it was more difficult than the front since the rear springs and exhaust were in the way. My experience was from an IPD track rear sway though so YMMV.
I've never replaced the shoes, and based on how they looked when I last did the rear brakes (rotors and pads), I doubt they've ever been replaced. I do have new shoes and drum hardware though on hand...

I can't imagine the rear being more difficult since with the front sway bar the subframe needs to be dropped slightly. But just about everyone says the rear is indeed more difficult. I own a spring compressor, does that make the rear one easier? It's definitely not like how they are on Honda Civics, lol! I could do a rear sway bar on one in less than 10 minutes.

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#15 ·
Does the brake noise only occur when initially hitting the brakes after say, going from reverse to drive then applying brakes, or drive to reverse and applying?

Sometimes brake pads will rattle in the caliper and "clunk" when changing directions and applying the brakes, or, as mentioned parking brake shoes delaminating. Typically, the PB shoes just make awful noises when driving without ever touching the brakes (as they're inside the hat).

Just tossing this out here - The spare tire and jack arent loose are they?
 
#17 ·
Does the brake noise only occur when initially hitting the brakes after say, going from reverse to drive then applying brakes, or drive to reverse and applying?

Sometimes brake pads will rattle in the caliper and "clunk" when changing directions and applying the brakes, or, as mentioned parking brake shoes delaminating. Typically, the PB shoes just make awful noises when driving without ever touching the brakes (as they're inside the hat).

Just tossing this out here - The spare tire and jack arent loose are they?
So nothing is loose in the trunk, and the jack is completely secure, I had initially wondered that also. I'm mostly noticing the noise with going from park to reverse, going backwards and applying the brakes. But it's not everytime, at this point probably not even half of the time. Getting no terrible noises or any noises while moving either.

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#16 ·
I've discovered that if you try to be cheap (or if your mechanic tries to be cheap) by re-using those little annoying brake shoe springs, sometimes they just don't provide enough tension anymore to keep the pads from rattling around. Oh that and sometimes (particularly in the rust belt) the little eyelet that's built into the brake dust shield that the little spring hooks into just degrades to the point where the little spring has nothing to hook onto. That will also create a bit of a racket.
 
#18 ·
UPDATE!

Finally got the intermittently occurring red triangle figured out. I knew it had a hunch that it was temp related. Since the original post, increasingly more, when coasting down an incline at freeway speed, the triangle would light red as the coolant temp dipped below 182F or so... Once back at about 186-188F it would go away. NO CEL, and no reduced performance. I wondered if maybe a malfunctioning sensor... Unfortunately with the constant brake failure warning message from my bad BCM or CEM, no other messages will display, though messages will briefly display for a couple seconds when starting the car, usually cold and if the ECU codes had been cleared upon the last shut off. Anyways, got the annoying maintenance minder message cleared which I wasn't really aware was there either for to the brake message, and I could see a briefly showing "Low Coolant Level" message. BINGO! That makes perfect sense! I fortunately have a gallon of Volvo OEM coolant that I'll mix up this evening and top off the reservoir which isn't completely empty. This should hopefully solve the red triangle though.

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