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    1. #1
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      A few minor (?) issues...

      Recently I've began noticing a noticeable clunk coming from the rear of the car when braking while in reverse. Seems to only happen when the car is cold, and only the first half dozen stops if I roll or move and intentionally cause it to happen. Hoping it's not an Ebrake shoe issue of a loose liner... Ebrake does work like normal though, so..?

      Other issue, also recently upon a cold start and engine has been sitting for several hours or overnight, I'm getting a red triangle upon startup that goes away once the car has begun warming up past about 110F (needle begins moving from the left). I ran VIDA on a run cycle of the occurrence, and got nothing of anything wrong that would be causing it, other than a UEM-0C00 which VIDA says there's no match for that code nor could I find anything online about that code. Car runs totally fine while triangle is red, and there's no Check Engine lamp on during it either.

      Last issue, my lock ring light no longer illuminates. This DID cause a VIDA fault of CEM-8D02 "Ignition Lamp and High Mounted Stop Lamps signal too high/signal missing".... Ironically I did have burned out brake light bulb which didn't cause the bulb out dash lamp to light, strange... In any event, replaced the brake light bulb, but the lock ring light is definitely not working. I tried looking up info on it, but found not much on Google. Also doesn't seem to be it's own part either and integrated with the lock ring itself? Can the bulb be replaced itself, and is it a standard bulb, or LED? Could I retrofit it with an LED if it's a standard bulb?
      EDIT: Looks like I have my answer to this one here... Appears to be a T3 (or T4?) size bulb like is used in the CCM illumination of which I have plenty of LEDs of and in different colors from when I re-bulbed mine some months ago. Should be an easy enough fix hopefully.
      Last edited by Phixion; 12-09-2019 at 03:25 AM.
      2004 S60 2.5T - Stock for now...

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    3. #2
      Junior Member endothrow's Avatar
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      I can only offer some feedback on the clunk in reverse. Had a similar issue when braking or backing up over some transition in pavement. I replaced my rear sway bar and end links and haven’t had the sound return in my most recent trips. Something to listen for since the rubber was worn and compressed.


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    4. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by endothrow View Post
      I can only offer some feedback on the clunk in reverse. Had a similar issue when braking or backing up over some transition in pavement. I replaced my rear sway bar and end links and haven’t had the sound return in my most recent trips. Something to listen for since the rubber was worn and compressed.


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      That's actually quite helpful, thanks! I happen to have a set of T5 sway bars that have brand new Energy poly bushings that I bought from a member on here, that I need to install.

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by Phixion View Post
      That's actually quite helpful, thanks! I happen to have a set of T5 sway bars that have brand new Energy poly bushings that I bought from a member on here, that I need to install.

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      I hope that fixes it but don't be surprised if it doesn't. I had that clunk on a 98 V70. Different platform but same rear brake setup. It was the linings on the PB that became loose and just about to fall apart. It's easy enough to find out. Good luck with it Matt and Happy Holidays to Ya and the GF.

    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by chefricky View Post
      I hope that fixes it but don't be surprised if it doesn't. I had that clunk on a 98 V70. Different platform but same rear brake setup. It was the linings on the PB that became loose and just about to fall apart. It's easy enough to find out. Good luck with it Matt and Happy Holidays to Ya and the GF.
      Thanks Rick!! Happy holidays to you as well!

      I'm prepared for should the linings to be loose. I do fortunately have brand new shoes and hardware on hand in case. That's probably an easier take a peek and fix than the sway bar from what I understand, lol.

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    8. #6
      Junior Member endothrow's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Phixion View Post
      Thanks Rick!! Happy holidays to you as well!

      I'm prepared for should the linings to be loose. I do fortunately have brand new shoes and hardware on hand in case. That's probably an easier take a peek and fix than the sway bar from what I understand, lol.

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      Sway bar is an effort and if you asked me to do it again, I’d hire it out.


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    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by endothrow View Post
      Sway bar is an effort and if you asked me to do it again, I’d hire it out.


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      Only the front one though, right?

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    10. #8
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      When was the last time you replaced the parking brake shoes? My pads delaminated and were jiggling around in there when I upgraded to R calipers/brakes front and rear, but the parking brake still worked fine.

      Also, the rear sway bar was a real pain. I thought it was more difficult than the front since the rear springs and exhaust were in the way. My experience was from an IPD track rear sway though so YMMV.
      2005 S60 T5 M66 (1 of 72 for '05). Four-C, OEM Lip Kit, Snabb Short Shifter+Bushings, IPD Track Sways+Endlinks, IPD Poly inserts/bushings, TRS Bi-Xenon Retrofitted R headlights+custom relay box/harness, IPD DP + Oval Tube Exhaust, Forge CBV, Snabb intake pipe, R Brembo Conversion F+R, FC04A 17x8+35. KW V2s and Stage 2 Tune Coming Soon...
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    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by broinkrist View Post
      When was the last time you replaced the parking brake shoes? My pads delaminated and were jiggling around in there when I upgraded to R calipers/brakes front and rear, but the parking brake still worked fine.

      Also, the rear sway bar was a real pain. I thought it was more difficult than the front since the rear springs and exhaust were in the way. My experience was from an IPD track rear sway though so YMMV.
      I've never replaced the shoes, and based on how they looked when I last did the rear brakes (rotors and pads), I doubt they've ever been replaced. I do have new shoes and drum hardware though on hand...

      I can't imagine the rear being more difficult since with the front sway bar the subframe needs to be dropped slightly. But just about everyone says the rear is indeed more difficult. I own a spring compressor, does that make the rear one easier? It's definitely not like how they are on Honda Civics, lol! I could do a rear sway bar on one in less than 10 minutes.

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    12. #10
      Junior Member endothrow's Avatar
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      Rear sway was the worst. Front is more work but straightforward. Using IPD sways as well so less clearance due to their size.


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    13. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by Phixion View Post
      I've never replaced the shoes, and based on how they looked when I last did the rear brakes (rotors and pads), I doubt they've ever been replaced. I do have new shoes and drum hardware though on hand...

      I can't imagine the rear being more difficult since with the front sway bar the subframe needs to be dropped slightly. But just about everyone says the rear is indeed more difficult. I own a spring compressor, does that make the rear one easier? It's definitely not like how they are on Honda Civics, lol! I could do a rear sway bar on one in less than 10 minutes.

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      Rear spring compressor may help if you take the spring out from one side. The IPD bar was thicker and hard to put back into place as it snakes around so many different things. I had to wedge, bang, jack up the suspension, down the other side, unbolt some exhaust hangers, etc. I did the rear first thinking it was going to be easier. Took around 6 hours of cursing and swearing. The front took about 2 hours even with having to partially drop the subframe.

      As for your brake sound problem, I would go ahead and replace your parking brake shoes and hardware as your pads probably delaminated but are still held in place enough to do the parking brake job.
      2005 S60 T5 M66 (1 of 72 for '05). Four-C, OEM Lip Kit, Snabb Short Shifter+Bushings, IPD Track Sways+Endlinks, IPD Poly inserts/bushings, TRS Bi-Xenon Retrofitted R headlights+custom relay box/harness, IPD DP + Oval Tube Exhaust, Forge CBV, Snabb intake pipe, R Brembo Conversion F+R, FC04A 17x8+35. KW V2s and Stage 2 Tune Coming Soon...
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    14. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by broinkrist View Post
      Rear spring compressor may help if you take the spring out from one side. The IPD bar was thicker and hard to put back into place as it snakes around so many different things. I had to wedge, bang, jack up the suspension, down the other side, unbolt some exhaust hangers, etc. I did the rear first thinking it was going to be easier. Took around 6 hours of cursing and swearing. The front took about 2 hours even with having to partially drop the subframe.

      As for your brake sound problem, I would go ahead and replace your parking brake shoes and hardware as your pads probably delaminated but are still held in place enough to do the parking brake job.
      I gotcha and thanks! Mine is FWD if that makes any difference for either sway bar installation, so less to smaller around I'd imagine? I'll have to take a look underneath and plan the best course of action for the rear bar.

      I'll replace the rear parking brake items and see if that helps any. I should just replace the sway bar and bushings while I'm there too...

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    15. #13
      Junior Member metalbender's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Phixion View Post
      I've never replaced the shoes, and based on how they looked when I last did the rear brakes (rotors and pads), I doubt they've ever been replaced. I do have new shoes and drum hardware though on hand...

      I can't imagine the rear being more difficult since with the front sway bar the subframe needs to be dropped slightly. But just about everyone says the rear is indeed more difficult. I own a spring compressor, does that make the rear one easier? It's definitely not like how they are on Honda Civics, lol! I could do a rear sway bar on one in less than 10 minutes.

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      My V70 didn't have a rear sway from the factory, so I ordered a pair of IPD sways (just because I needed a rear lol, I guess I probably could have found a factory rear)

      I have a friend that wrenches on drift racing cars, he snaked the rear into place in roughly 5 minutes. The only thing we removed for the rear were the tires to install the end links. So if it can be done on a P2 V70....
      2002 V70 2.4 N/A. 261k miles. Totaled for the second time November 16, 2016, RIP. - "Elin"
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    16. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by metalbender View Post
      My V70 didn't have a rear sway from the factory, so I ordered a pair of IPD sways (just because I needed a rear lol, I guess I probably could have found a factory rear)

      I have a friend that wrenches on drift racing cars, he snaked the rear into place in roughly 5 minutes. The only thing we removed for the rear were the tires to install the end links. So if it can be done on a P2 V70....
      That's what I was thinking... I couldn't imagine it being snaked around or locked in by any components...

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    17. #15
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      Does the brake noise only occur when initially hitting the brakes after say, going from reverse to drive then applying brakes, or drive to reverse and applying?

      Sometimes brake pads will rattle in the caliper and "clunk" when changing directions and applying the brakes, or, as mentioned parking brake shoes delaminating. Typically, the PB shoes just make awful noises when driving without ever touching the brakes (as they're inside the hat).

      Just tossing this out here - The spare tire and jack arent loose are they?

    18. #16
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      I've discovered that if you try to be cheap (or if your mechanic tries to be cheap) by re-using those little annoying brake shoe springs, sometimes they just don't provide enough tension anymore to keep the pads from rattling around. Oh that and sometimes (particularly in the rust belt) the little eyelet that's built into the brake dust shield that the little spring hooks into just degrades to the point where the little spring has nothing to hook onto. That will also create a bit of a racket.
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    19. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by ImportService View Post
      Does the brake noise only occur when initially hitting the brakes after say, going from reverse to drive then applying brakes, or drive to reverse and applying?

      Sometimes brake pads will rattle in the caliper and "clunk" when changing directions and applying the brakes, or, as mentioned parking brake shoes delaminating. Typically, the PB shoes just make awful noises when driving without ever touching the brakes (as they're inside the hat).

      Just tossing this out here - The spare tire and jack arent loose are they?
      So nothing is loose in the trunk, and the jack is completely secure, I had initially wondered that also. I'm mostly noticing the noise with going from park to reverse, going backwards and applying the brakes. But it's not everytime, at this point probably not even half of the time. Getting no terrible noises or any noises while moving either.

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