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    1. #1
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      What to upgrade first?

      I have a manual C30 T5 R-design, currently has the Polestar tune. It also has the Polestar exhaust (which I don't think you guys got in the US), it's still a 2.5" system but it has a much sportier muffler.

      At some stage I'm planning to do some upgrades.

      Performance wise I'll probably get a downpipe and intercooler, and a tune.

      For handling I'll probably go for Bilstein B8's with Eibach springs, but not 100% certain yet.

      I'm also going to replace the clutch, probably with the Focus RS unit, and install an LSD.

      I can't afford to do all these at once, but I'm struggling to decide on what to do first! I can probably afford to do one of the three (either performance, suspension or LSD) in the next few months.
      Any suggestions would be great!

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    3. #2
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      Someone was doing a run of short shift kits on here. I’d try to get one of those, and replace the torque mount with poly. The rubber one is a pos.


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      2008 C30 R-Design MT Black
      2007 V70R GT Ti Grey Nordkap

    4. #3
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Brakes! 320mm from S40/V50 AWD bolt on. Need specific lines, rotors and pads.
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 201k - K24/Greens/Do88 IC/SMF & P2R Clutch/DW300C/H&R/Bilstein TC/Delrin/316mm & 308mm Brakes - SteveO Tuned
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 292k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 174k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
      2000 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 240k - Moms Unicorn
      2000 S70 GLT SE- Mystic/Graphite - AW42 - 215k - Sisters

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    6. #4
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      Sorry, I should have been more specific.
      I have already replaced the torque mount with the 'e-focus' part, and I already have the 320mm front brakes from an S40.
      I've also got a K&N intake system, although this probably improves the sound the car makes more than anything else (although I found it did sharpen up throttle response a bit).

      I was trying to get a short shift kit, although the shipping cost + currency conversion makes it very expensive. I'm also hesitant after hearing stories of shift cables stretching after installing a short shifter.

    7. #5
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      Intercooler. It's summer now, and over the next few days we're going to experience a heatwave that will likely break records with temps over 45C.

    8. #6
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      well, the first thing to do are the tires if you have not done them yet.
      2008 Volvo C30 R-design red manual

    9. #7
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      I would do the LSD and clutch first. If you are doing the clutch it easier to do the LSD at the same time and vise versa. This way you will be ready for the tune when you are ready fot this. If you have not replaced the plastic intake you will want to do this before you get a tune with boost that will crack the intake. Glück.
      Last edited by J5T; 12-23-2019 at 07:31 PM.

    10. #8
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      I will do tyres eventually but I'm going to wait till they're closer to needing replacing.

      I was leaning towards the LSD as well, partly because the feel of the stock clutch annoys me so I'm keen to change it for something else.
      The only reason I'm reluctant to do this is because the current clutch has life in it still so it seems like bad value to change it now, but I guess the new one will last for years anyway.

      Will the intercooler by itself make much difference? My understanding was that it was more of a supporting mod, that helps get the most benefit from eg. a tune and exhaust.

    11. #9
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      The stock intercooler is okay for stock factory tune and not much difference vs performance IC until it gets warm out. When you start to add boost the charge air temps go up quickly. Need a better more efficient IC and you will want one that can handle higher pressures. The OEM plastic end cap IC will crack at some point if you are going to get a high boost tune.

      As far as the clutch having life left on it, you will be waiting a long time to do a clutch upgrade if you wait for the clutch to wear out. Which means this will hold up the LSD also. What fun is this???? Bite the bullet and do it. Tires can wait.
      Last edited by J5T; 12-23-2019 at 07:44 PM.

    12. #10
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      I would definitely do the IC. Of the mods listed, it would be the cheapest and easiest to install. The stock IC is also commonly cited as the main performance weak point of our cars.

      Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
      2005 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 (2017 - ) || 1987 Toyota MR2 (2016 - ) || 2002 Lexus IS300 (2016 - ) || 2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 (2016 - 2019) || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 (2015 - 2016) || 2001 Acura Integra GSR (2010 - 2010) Stolen lol

    13. #11
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      J5T, you confirmed what I thought about the standard intercooler being fine for a stock car. However I'm in Australia and at the moment we're regularly getting days above 40°C, so is it likely I would see an improvement if I upgraded it, even without upgrading anything else (i.e. higher boost)?

      You also mentioned before about replacing the intake, I assume you mean the intake manifold/plenum. I have heard others claim that these are prone to cracking, but I have never actually seen or heard of one actually doing that. And the performance gains seem to be negligible.

    14. #12
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      Wow! At 40°C you will see improvement with upgraded IC vs stock. Here it is about 3°C and got very cold last winter with temps in the -30°C range. It is rare to see 40°C in the great lakes region but it happens from time to time.

      Yes, if you are going to get a tune to make bigger boost, the upper intake plenum is plastic and will be prone to cracking. Never seen or heard of one cracking with a level one tune, I am planning to go at least level 3 and researching level 4. The aluminum intake plenum may not make much gains in performance with stock and level 1 tunes. However, I have it because I do not want to deal with the issue of the plastic cracking on me at some time. I got the P1 with it on the car which the lower section was ported and polished. Nice, but unsure of the gains in just this alone vs the other mods done. Looks pretty and I know it will not crack. Glück and Merry Christmas.

    15. #13
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      Have you thought on changing the rear sway bar? It's pretty cheap (check hardrace 7740), and it makes quite a difference!

    16. #14
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      Because my car is a late model R-design spec it already has a thicker than standard rear swaybar. There are still thicker ones available that I may consider in the future but I'd be hesitant to get the Hardrace one since it is hollow, surely that offsets any advantage gained by it being thicker?

    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by HL-240 View Post
      Because my car is a late model R-design spec it already has a thicker than standard rear swaybar. There are still thicker ones available that I may consider in the future but I'd be hesitant to get the Hardrace one since it is hollow, surely that offsets any advantage gained by it being thicker?
      I have seen some smartie types on here that say that hollow is the way to go as the tension is carried on the outside of the sway bar, not the center. So a solid one just adds weight and nothing else over the hollow.


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    18. #16
      Member thefisch33's Avatar
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      +1 for the intercooler. Get the do88 one
      2010 s40 T5 AWD M66 a tribute to Heico's ODIN HS4

    19. #17
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      I also have a late model r-design. Upgraded to the Elevate rear sway bar, or any other thicker one will give you a very big bang for the bucks experience. All of my upgrades have been great, but that one was easy to feel the first time I took a sharp run onto an on/off ramp.

    20. #18
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      Swaybar is definitely on my to-do list.
      At this stage I think I'm going to leave the power upgrades for later on, so I'm now tossing up between clutch/LSD, and suspension.
      My feeling is that upgrading the suspension will make more difference in day-to-day driving, i.e. going around roundabouts etc even if I'm not pushing the car hard, whereas the LSD is more valuable for the times I do want to push the car hard.
      However I haven't driven one of these with an LSD before so keen to hear feedback on which one is more important.

    21. #19
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      daily driving and you dont autocross and you live in a dry climate you dont need an LSD right away.
      the engine is over the axle in a FWD car so it is not as necessary as in a RWD.
      I also hope you understand how big a job it is to take out the clutch and if you are going to do that you need to replace all the other things like the slave cylinder.
      but if that is what you want to do go ahead just make sure you have another way to get to work as this car will have some serious downtime, don't think you can knock it out 5 hours on a weekend.
      2008 Volvo C30 R-design red manual

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by potatochobit View Post
      the engine is over the axle in a FWD car so it is not as necessary as in a RWD.
      The front loses grip pretty easily when I drive 'enthusiastically', at least with RWD oversteer is pretty easy to correct.
      I know I don't "need" an LSD but I feel like it is probably necessary to make the car feel somewhat like a performance car rather than just a faster version of a normal car.

      I'm well aware that it's a big job, I would be doing it with someone who has done it a number of times before so not too worried about that side of things.

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