No oil pressure in bottom end. No flow at all.
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    1. #1
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      No oil pressure in bottom end. No flow at all.

      Hoping someone will have an idea of whats happening. I have no oil pressure at the front port where the oil pressure sensor is, literally no oil is coming out of it. I've desludged the oil pan, done the o rings, new pcv. The top end appears to be getting oil. If I crank the car without the filter housing attached a metric ton of oil comes out so I know the oil pump is going its job. Could there be a clog in the intermittent section of my block?
      Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

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    3. #2
      Member BaxtR's Avatar
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      use an air gun and blow it out lol


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      2007 S60R Nordkap & Black Sapphire Metallic. Auto. Holset HY35, 2.3 Block shimmed, Forged pistons, H-Beam Rods. 3" DP, Meth Inj.

    4. #3
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      Unfortunately I tried that lmao, but hardly anything comes out of where the filter is. I really don't want to pull it and hot tank it

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    6. #4
      Member BaxtR's Avatar
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      try an oil flush?


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      2007 S60R Nordkap & Black Sapphire Metallic. Auto. Holset HY35, 2.3 Block shimmed, Forged pistons, H-Beam Rods. 3" DP, Meth Inj.

    7. #5
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      I've tried pouring liquid seafoam, carb cleaner, and motor flush in the oil sensor port and then hitting it with the air compressor. How bad of an idea is it to put motor flush in the oil and let her idle for a while? Really don't want to hurt the crank bearings.
      Last edited by Parker; 12-18-2019 at 04:22 PM.

    8. #6
      I think I saw something like this a while back on a youtube video. Basically seals had been replaced with the wrong gasket maker. It clogged the passageways throughout the engine. Had to tear it down and clean it up.

    9. #7
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      I've taken off the head and oilpan and so far its all been the correct sealant. I bought the car with low oil pressure for $500. PO said that he changed the oil, went to work and on his way back the light came on. He parked it and never touched it again. I found little hairballs of filter material in the head when I took it apart. Maybe a big hairball has clogged the lower passages? Does anyone know of any nasty chemicals I could pour in the passage that might dissolve filter material?

    10. #8
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      I use this, every oil change. It seems to work well, not sure if it will fix you up, but you could give it a try....

      https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engin...e-restoration/

    11. #9
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      I appreciate the input, maybe ill try to run flush and leave the oil pressure sender out and bottle feed the crank bearings oil until it hopefully starts spraying oil back out the port?

    12. #10
      The problem with dumping chemicals strong enough in the engine is itll eat the engine. If your dead set on troubleshooting, physical is always the #1 way to go. Unfortunately if you know the pump is good, you have a blockage.. so physically, that means tearing it down until you find the blockages. I guess it all depends on what your end goal is, some people want to "send it" that way they can or have an excuse to "upgrade".

    13. #11
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      I guess if the engine flush and more compressed air don't work ill be tearing apart the bottom end. Does anyone have a diagram or something of the oil passages in the intermittent section of the block? Wondering if I could put a drain snake in there.

    14. #12
      Wait since someone brought it up, DO you know the pump is good? Have you taken it out and inspected it?
      2006 S60R, 90k miles.
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    15. #13
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      Can you get a tiny wire in there, try to clear it out?

    16. #14
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      The oil passages are full of 90 degree bends and are 8-10 mm. The oil comes up from front of block and feeds a trough the casting has on intermediate section/bedplate. There are troughs that run to each main bearing and the turbo and piston cooler spray jet valve and thus the spray jets are fed by a drilling over into the main bearing feed groove. The oil cooler jet relief valve is there to block piston cooler jets until oil pressure reaches 1.5 Bar (about 21 psi). It is a 17 mm hex head to the left and just a bit above crank centerline in timing belt area. It would be a good idea to remove that and see if oil filter paper is in that valve. It is not what you want to hear but engine removal and lower end disassembly is the only way you'll know what has happened and to clear it. The cylinder head top will need to be removed to assure that the paper is not in those passages waiting to cause a problem. When you remove the intermediate section you can directly blow the oil feed hole to head and it will clear anything from that and blow through the hole to outer edge of head that feeds the oil distribution trough on the surface up there. The CVVT solenoids are fed through top via cam bearing feed troughs. The tappets are lubed via holes drilled into tappet bores intersecting the trough area.
      2004 V70R GT 255K miles purchased 9/15/12. Had several R company cars in the past and had to have one of my own.
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    17. #15
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      I know the pump is good, had it out and cleaned it up. As for the head I've just put it back on and I know its all good to go and clear of filter material. It sounds like I should probably just pull the engine and tear apart the intermediate section of the block.

    18. #16
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      You've got a blocked passage, and if it's blocked that hard, chemical cleaning won't do anything.

      I've seen this happen when KwikLoob monkeys break the plastic wrap on a new oil filter by poking it with their finger, breaking off a piece of plastic inside the filter. The inside of an oil filter is the "clean" side, so the plastic goes right through until it finds a hole it can't fit through. 90psi of oil pressure can jam a piece of plastic in there tight!

      It's gonna suck, but you're going to have to tear it down and blow passages out until you find the clog.
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    19. #17
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      The other thing to inspect would be the oil pump relief valve. If it's stuck open or has a broken spring it'll flow oil just fine but won't build any pressure. But yeah, used motors are not terribly expensive, I'd just swap the whole business out and then inspect the weird one while it's on a stand. Then you can sell it if you find the problem.
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
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    20. #18
      The almost zero cost method is following cattlecar. You’d save the current motor at the expense of pulling in, tinkering with it a lot, then dumping it back in. You’re in for the cost of gaskets and labor.

      Easier way would be just to buy another engine, they’re only a few hundred bucks.

      Alternatively, you could upgrade to a B5244T5 motor - it’s a drop in swap, but the engine cost will be higher, think $1500 or so.

    21. #19
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      Are you sure you put the oil pump gasket in correctly? It can be installed the wrong way and block a passage if I remember correctly.

    22. #20
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      It had a lack of oilpressure when I got it so I dont think anything I've done to it could cause the problem. What is the deal with the clock spring on the pump? Since this car isn't my daily and I'm a broke engineering student I'll probably just pull the engine and and take the bottom apart. I've never dealt with the bottom end of a whiteblock, what gaskets do it need? In a perfect world I was hoping I could take off the intermediate plate and leave the crank in. Do I need to replace crank bearings if they look good? Also I've been told the best way to pull the motor is with the trans attached? Thanks for the input everyone, I really appreciate it!!!

    23. #21
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      There isn't a clock spring. It is a cylindrical spring bearing against a bullet shaped slug that is pushed into a seat. The end of the bullet is in the oil pump outlet casvity where oil is under pressure. If the oil pressure gets high enough it pushes the bullet slug off seat and that oil flow goes back to the inlet of the pump. It limits the max pressure to 84 psi +/-. When the engine is cold and you rev the engine with thick oil the pump pressure can go to 200 psi easily. The relief valve assures the oil filter canister isn't ruptured. If it got pushed open asnd something wedged it open it could kill oil pressure. The bottom end of engine is sealed with anaerobic sealer. Permatex brand version of this is adequate. You should replace the front and rear crank seals. The bearings are reuseable if not damaged. Upper rod bearing shells and lower main bearing shells will always show some wear as the pistons hammer down on the upper shell and try to push the crank out of the bottom of engine against the lower main bearing shells. That engine has selective main bearings so keep up with where they go. The block openings are measured and marked on an edge of the block where lower crankcase bolts to block. The crank journals are measured after satisfactory polish and the main journal sizes are stamped on the last counterweight. Old engines used sloppy clearances to avoid high scrapping rates. Modern engines use tight clearances and use the selectively sized shells to get the desired clearance after bearing bores in block are prefect round and parallel. The crank journals are polished (extra fine grinding) until the roundness and concentricity is perfect. There size range is miniscule. If it comes to it I could screen shot a bearing size chart and post or email.
      2004 V70R GT 255K miles purchased 9/15/12. Had several R company cars in the past and had to have one of my own.
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    24. #22
      If you’re boned and gotta pull it, out the top will probably be easier. Without a lift, dropping the subframe with motor and trans attached will be a lot of work. Sure looked like a pain on the YouTube vid of a S60 guy doing it in his driveway.

    25. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by Parker View Post
      It had a lack of oilpressure when I got it so I dont think anything I've done to it could cause the problem. What is the deal with the clock spring on the pump? Since this car isn't my daily and I'm a broke engineering student I'll probably just pull the engine and and take the bottom apart. I've never dealt with the bottom end of a whiteblock, what gaskets do it need? In a perfect world I was hoping I could take off the intermediate plate and leave the crank in. Do I need to replace crank bearings if they look good? Also I've been told the best way to pull the motor is with the trans attached? Thanks for the input everyone, I really appreciate it!!!
      Got it. It sounded like you rebuilt the oil pump.

    26. #24
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      I'm going to try and pull the engine and trans next week and I'll update the thread once it's out.

    27. #25
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      Are you sure you got the o-rings between the pan and the intermediate section in correctly? That would cause low oil pressure. Have you tried to measure the pressure other than the oil pressure sensor outlet?

    28. #26
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      I think I got the o rings in correctly, I'm not really sure how I could have done it wrong. Plus it didnt have oil pressure before that. I don't know how else to measure pressure as the only place I know is the sender unit port. I'm willing to try anything before I pull the motor as it's really going to suck, especially out in the oregon rain.

    29. #27
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      Also, I didnt rebuild the oil pump, only took it out and cleaned it. The relief valve could be stuck open, that could theoretically explain why I get plenty oil flow when the filter is out, but once I put it back on I get no flow. Something to look into I guess.

    30. #28
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      Quote Originally Posted by Parker View Post
      Unfortunately I tried that lmao, but hardly anything comes out of where the filter is. I really don't want to pull it and hot tank it
      Hot tanking probably won't touch it. You'd have to remove all oil passage plugs and do it the old fashioned way, with a long steel dowel and a hammer.
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    31. #29
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      Quote Originally Posted by Parker View Post
      Also, I didnt rebuild the oil pump, only took it out and cleaned it. The relief valve could be stuck open, that could theoretically explain why I get plenty oil flow when the filter is out, but once I put it back on I get no flow. Something to look into I guess.

      I don't have a ton of experience with whiteblocks (no need to work on things that never break ) but every single Series II Buick V6 that I received from a certain engine builder would come to me with the plunger and spring reversed, leading to plenty of flow but no oil pressure. The guy who put the filter adaptor on the front cover was putting in the spring first and then the plunger, so the bypass port was permanently uncovered...
      '06 S60 R GT (224k and counting)
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      '81 RX-7 ex-rallycross champion sunny day cruiser
      '73 RX-3 proto-rallycross-champion
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    32. #30
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      Hmm maybe I'll pull the oil pump and take a look at it again before I pull the engine, couldn't hurt to check the relief valve.

    33. #31
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      FYI, You can't hot tank aluminum.

      Are you checking pressure at the oil pressure sending port with a gauge or just the sender indicating there is pressure or not?
      Last edited by 300+_T5R_855; 12-25-2019 at 03:43 PM.

    34. #32
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      Didnt know I cant hot tank aluminum, I should be able to just clean it out with pipe cleaners and a ton of carb cleaner. When I say there is no flow at all, I mean if I leave the sender unit out no oil will flow out.

    35. #33
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      So we all agree I should pull the motor/trans, remove the intermediate section, and clean it out?

    36. #34
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      Ladies and gentlemen do I have a picture for you! I pulled the bottom end apart and I found the culprit!

      http://imgur.com/gallery/WqV1vNY

      This thing is nasty!

    37. #35
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      wow. Is that caramel?

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