P1 V50 T5 question
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    1. #1
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      P1 V50 T5 question

      Does anybody know how much power the T5 engine in the p1 s40/v50/c30 can handle on stock internals before cracking or blowing up? Debating a stage 2+ hilton tune with downpipe exhaust and fmic. Wondering if the stock internals can handle it. Will also probably get a new clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder. TIA

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    3. #2
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      Elevate built some cars with 400hp on stock internals. I don't think I would trust that. Stage 3 is usually about 300 at the crank and is decently reliable. I'm at probably 150k miles and 15k have had the stage 3 tune with no prominent engine issues.
      As with any car the more power you make the less reliable it will be. Stage 2 is quite safe but I'd also recommend you do all the maintenance for stage 0 before tuning.

      Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

    4. #3
      The numbers typically seen that cause problems are above the 500hp line. That being said, like all tunes, the reality is the closer you get to that limit, the less room you have for mistakes.

      If you're looking for reliability - I would recommend not over 400HP, and would stay around the 350 mark for daily driving. These have I-beam rods which already aren't super strong from the factory, so unless you're going to do them with H beams or solids, I'd stay away from anything above 350HP. The boost required would be hazardous.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 12-25-2019 at 12:56 AM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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    6. #4
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      Thanks, I'm only looking to get about 280 or 300 crank. 225-250 awhp would be ideal. I thought Hilton only did 2+ for cars with a stock turbo? I'm not upgrading the turbo, i have an 06 SR getting a build currently, I don't want to kill the reliability of my v50, but it's way too slow. Just needs a little more make me happy. 50 whp i'd be happy i think. That's like 275 or 280 crank ish?

    7. #5
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Stage 3 is perfectly safe, many Stage 3 cars are over 250k miles now.
      As long as you're sticking with the stock turbo and only doing bolt on parts, you won't have any issues so long as you go with a well written tune.

    8. #6
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      In the UK you will find that most P1 T5 owners as well as ST owners will run stock internals to 380 brake (Its more the torque that will kill) But there have been a few cars which have bent rods after putting a K16 in.

      If you are replacing your clutch and fly, think about getting an S60R clutch kit or a Focus RS MK2 as the oem clutch will not be enough for much more over 300bhp. Also depending on your mileage you will want to get a block mod done to reinforce cylinder walls as they are prone to cracking when turning up the power.
      -------------------------------------------------
      2009 Volvo S40 - With a few mods

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Stage 3 is perfectly safe, many Stage 3 cars are over 250k miles now.
      As long as you're sticking with the stock turbo and only doing bolt on parts, you won't have any issues so long as you go with a well written tune.
      Side note, I currently only have an Injen intake alongside suspension upgrades, should I add more things to get a Tune? Looking for more power when hitting the pedal, when stopped, and a bit more oomph for the PNW roads.

    10. #8
      Quote Originally Posted by deeveeance View Post
      Side note, I currently only have an Injen intake alongside suspension upgrades, should I add more things to get a Tune? Looking for more power when hitting the pedal, when stopped, and a bit more oomph for the PNW roads.
      IIRC, the tunes issued are Stage 3 and limited by your addons - meaning that the more you do to your car physically, the more your tune will be able to put out the upper limits of power the tune says it can.

      People like MyNameIdeasWereTaken and others have had multiple tunes but can attest to this for each individual tune company.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    11. #9
      Quote Originally Posted by deeveeance View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Stage 3 is perfectly safe, many Stage 3 cars are over 250k miles now.
      As long as you're sticking with the stock turbo and only doing bolt on parts, you won't have any issues so long as you go with a well written tune.
      Side note, I currently only have an Injen intake alongside suspension upgrades, should I add more things to get a Tune? Looking for more power when hitting the pedal, when stopped, and a bit more oomph for the PNW roads.
      Per Hilton tuning...

      Your car is only set up for what most companies refer to as a "stage 1" tune. Stock other than minor mods like air intake.

      Stage 2 would be, at minimum, an upgraded downpipe, and can support things like a larger intercooler.

      Stage 2.5 is for cars with intake, downpipe, front mount, exhaust, maybe intake plenum and exhaust manifold upgrades. Even stuff like methanol injection. Again, per Hilton, this is the tune to get you "the absolute most power out of the car before upgrading the turbo."

      Stage 3 you're looking at upgraded turbo and forged / built internals. Stage 4 is for gigantic crazy turbos.

      To be fair these "stage" numbers mean very little and are largely "made up" by the various tuning companies. But to answer your original question? Yes, you should probably do some more basic bolt-ons before paying for a tune.
      06 S40 T5 AWD : DO88 intercooler : 3" EST downpipe : Eibach springs (1" drop) : Magnaflow cat-back exhaust : Hilton stage 2.5 tune

    12. #10
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      I think Hilton stg 2+ is ~Shark/Rica stg 3 power levels, though that is only my guess.
      For me it's been great so far, plenty of torque for daily with zero knock retard. Still thinking of K16 + cams every now and then though
      2005 S40 T5 AWD automatic - Hilton stage 2+ with torque limit removal. Some mods: 3" DP & 2.5" catback, Do88 FMIC, Pumaspeed inlet plenum, ECU spacer.

    13. #11
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by deeveeance View Post
      Side note, I currently only have an Injen intake alongside suspension upgrades, should I add more things to get a Tune? Looking for more power when hitting the pedal, when stopped, and a bit more oomph for the PNW roads.
      It depends how far you want to take the car. Leave it completely stock a throw on a stage 1 tune and you'll already be amazed by how much it wakes the car up.
      But if you think you want to go further with performance, don't waste your money on a tune until you have the bolt ons that you want. Otherwise, you'll just be spending money for another tune file.

      An intercooler is important, as even stock, these cars can suffer from heat soak.
      A downpipe and freer flowing exhaust is a nice upgrade as well and really the only other part you need to get a Stage 3 tune. The rest of the better flowing bolt ons can come at a later time with no need to upgrade tune files.

      Quote Originally Posted by silent-circuit View Post
      To be fair these "stage" numbers mean very little and are largely "made up" by the various tuning companies. But to answer your original question? Yes, you should probably do some more basic bolt-ons before paying for a tune.
      Yep, Stages is a loose term. Shark Stage 1 is stock parts, Stage 2 is a few bolt ons, Stage 3 is all bolt ons with the stock turbo, Stage 4 is turbo upgrade.
      Elevate doesn't do Stages, their tune is basically the equivalent of Stage 3 and is only held back by the parts you have.

    14. #12
      Member EngTech's Avatar
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      ps: I'm doing 1 now - it will 110% Rebuilt to Far Better then OE Standards ~ CHRA ~ will have Better Thrust Bearing HP Kit , which allow slightly more Oil Feed to Thrust Surface Keeping the Wheel
      Assembly from Higher Boost Fiction ie. Read ( Loading 1 end of the Wheel assembly ) , It also will Have Much High Road Race Balancing to Assembly . . other Details to Follow . .





      I'll Just Add - Balanced Cly. Flow as You get Higher then Stock Becomes more Important - every Turbo Manifold I have done has been shifted .040-.060 - that's a lot see Video Proof :
      ( Also .015 shifting in Alignment Head Bolts to Turbo ) Slop If U what I Mean .
      Not to Mention - Creating Hot Spots that should be More Even .. - so Porting & Matching to Manifold to Head does more for Life Motor then You think , while Adding Eff% of the Turbo itself - which is Great for HP .
      At All Stages ~ https://youtu.be/Yy74OS1hxHs






      Last edited by EngTech; 12-31-2019 at 10:38 AM.
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

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