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Leaking at/near the coolant overflow tank

3K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  AutoGeek 
#1 ·
Good morning and belated happy new year to everyone. My V50 T5 as a week that appears to be near the coolant overflow tank, from doing some research it appears that this is not an uncommon issue. The temperature needle stays dead center, and there is still coolant in the overflow tank but clearly this needs to be addressed.

It looks like there were some mixed experiences with the less expensive aftermarket tanks and I wanted to check in to see what the current thinking was on using one of the less expensive aftermarket ones.

Thanks in advance for the thoughts.
 
#2 ·
Easy fix and shop at FCP Euro for a replacement.

I just replaced the coolant reservoir last October.
 
#4 ·
The OEM Volvo, the one you'd get from Autozone, and the cheap one from RockAuto all have the EXACT same manufacturing markings on the bottom, at least when I did mine about 2 years ago, so I'd like to believe they are all actually manufactured at the same place with the same materials.

I haven't had any bad luck with my cheapo from RockAuto either.

The only thing you want to go OEM on is the cap. People have had issues using the OE brand documented here, and people have gone back to Volvo OEM specific caps.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I'd like to share this info: I bought a cap from my local ford dealer that is the exact same part as the one that came with my car. I paid $18 for it. That same day my local Volvo dealer quoted me $70 for that cap.

Top cap: taken from my car
Bottom: Ford cap






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#9 ·
I'd like to share this info: I bought a cap from my local ford dealer that is the exact same part as the one that came with my car. I paid $18 for it. That same day my local Volvo dealer quoted me $70 for that cap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The perks of driving a Volord? Forvo? Good catch.
 
#6 ·
The cap is vitally important. I had replaced my cap with a reputable aftermarket cap (Gates). My car did exactly as you described. The temperature was normal (needed in the middle) yet the coolant was coming out the tank overflow. The cap was not holding proper pressure and the coolant was boiling out. I replaced with a genuine Volvo cap 31368311 for $50 and all was good. I noted that the Volvo cap did fit tighter.

That Ford cap does in deed look like the Volvo cap.
 
#12 ·
The best part of this is the way people look at me when I say my car can use:

Toyota transmission fluid, Mazda 3 sway bar links, Ford Focus motor mount and coolant cap, BMW E46 headlight projectors, Porsche 911 throttle body, Renault Laguna timing belt and tensioner, Land Rover LR2 coolant temperature sensor, GM transmission oil pan gasket, Ford Mondeo Engine air filter, BMW M3 Serpentine belt, etc
 
#13 ·
Lmao...I got my cap in today, $12 from amazon - put it on - seems to be a tad less tight than the Volvo one that was on there - but otherwise didn't cause any boiling on my short trip to the daycare on an already hot engine.

In just a half hour with the hood up enough pressure was relieved enough for me to swap out the caps, so that explains where I was loosing a quarter cup of coolant every month with the heatsoak from the engine being off and the pressure being relieved every day when I parked at home/work. Hopefully it is fixed.
 
#16 ·
Excellent tip about the Ford cap. I used to buy Mitsubishi parts for my '90 Dodge Daytona that had the Mitsubishi V6 because they were cheaper and more convenient.
 
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