[S40 T5 '05] Stabilization system needs service, wipers flying, no blinkers, no electronic
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    1. #1
      Junior Member mdziobas's Avatar
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      [S40 T5 '05] Stabilization system needs service, wipers flying, no blinkers, no electronic

      Hi,
      Guys, I have warning message with yellow triangle - Stabilitatskont wart erforderl. (Stabilization system needs service).
      As far as I read, it was caused due to problems with ABS sensor or wheel bearing.

      The problem is not the warning message itself, but when it happens, half of my electronic is not available. Wipers are flying on and on, I have no blinkers, I can't spray the cleaning fluid, half of the system is lagged (even "READ" button and the computer steering screen). Other guys had not these sort of problems (when they had this message, maybe one of them had, but got no answer).

      CEM was cleaned this summer.
      I have had it once a year ago, also in winter (it was zero or below, like now), but it disappeared and now seems to be back.
      Does someone had it and repaired?

      PS Would faulty wheel bearing been noticed on suspension test? I was on it three times (I did wheel geometry and searched for annoying creaks location).
      '05 S40 T5 Black /w Medusa & Trunk Lip

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    3. #2
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
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      Sounds exactly like what would happen to my S40 when a passenger would kick out the CEM wiring loom in the passenger footwell. I'd take a look at those connections. For me it was as simple as re-seating the plugs, clearing codes, and installing the felt cover below the CEM that was missing on my car. Without that felt piece it's very easy to catch a shoe on the "lever" that pulls the plug out from the CEM.
      Last edited by lunalolvo; 01-06-2020 at 04:36 PM.

    4. #3
      As for the wheel bearing, they typically go bad in a few ways - you'll notice a loud HUMMMM that gets louder the faster you go. Or it'll begin to click if you lift the car up and spin the wheel. Or if you have a rocking movement in the wheel when you press on the right and left sides AND the up/down sides and your suspension isn't the issue.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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    6. #4
      Junior Member mdziobas's Avatar
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      @lunalolvo There is some possibility - I was driving with passenger when it happened, but it appeared after ~3hrs stop and first run.


      Hmm, right, I took some research and found things related to the clutch issues.

      After plugging in OBD I could see P0564 active (Cruise control system, multi-function switch input A - circuit malfunction).
      One guy was talking he also had problems with not working cruise control, but also had the car shaking and jerking when going on and off throttle. (https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...l-problem-1674)


      In my case I got the same problems - jerking/shaking + not working cruise control + even P0805 which is Clutch position sensor malfunction. Maybe the title problem could be caused by the clutch, but even if not, I could also change the Clutch master cylinder.

      If I'd like to change Clutch master cylinder, should I pick only OEM? I found Sachs/TRW which is 1/4 price of the OEM and many others. I'm not going to use this car for a long time anymore (I plan changing the car), so picking the OEM would be dumby as hell.
      I know I could go with probably the sensor only, but it costs twice as many as the whole slave from Sachs.
      Last edited by mdziobas; 01-07-2020 at 03:07 AM.
      '05 S40 T5 Black /w Medusa & Trunk Lip

    7. #5
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      A bearing that is starting to walk out or a loose ABS will give you the traction fault warning, but considering that it comes with the other electronic malfunctions, I'd be willing to bet the entire issue is electronic.

      CEM, grounds, or battery.

      No point in throwing money at parts until you know what's at fault. You'll can get a bunch of error codes for things that seem completely random when it's an electronics issues.

    8. #6
      Junior Member mdziobas's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      A bearing that is starting to walk out or a loose ABS will give you the traction fault warning, but considering that it comes with the other electronic malfunctions, I'd be willing to bet the entire issue is electronic.

      CEM, grounds, or battery.

      No point in throwing money at parts until you know what's at fault. You'll can get a bunch of error codes for things that seem completely random when it's an electronics issues.
      Clutch position sensor code was with me from the time I bought my car, so it's not related.
      In my other topic I heard I should go with changing my sensor or whole cylinder. It would probably solve cruise control and clutch code problem. If not - it's Volvo.. nothing would surprise me anymore.
      '05 S40 T5 Black /w Medusa & Trunk Lip

    9. #7
      Quote Originally Posted by mdziobas View Post
      Clutch position sensor code was with me from the time I bought my car, so it's not related.
      In my other topic I heard I should go with changing my sensor or whole cylinder. It would probably solve cruise control and clutch code problem. If not - it's Volvo.. nothing would surprise me anymore.
      Just replace the sensor. It snaps off and snaps back on, and doesn't require bleeding. If your master cylinder isn't giving you any issues with use, the sensor is the easier and cheaper and less time consuming repair.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    10. #8
      Junior Member mdziobas's Avatar
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      Regarding the topic problem
      I disconnected battery for 30 minutes and it disappeared. Actually not happened anymore for three runs, but if temperatures below zero come again - who knows.. will see.


      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Just replace the sensor. It snaps off and snaps back on, and doesn't require bleeding. If your master cylinder isn't giving you any issues with use, the sensor is the easier and cheaper and less time consuming repair.
      Main problem is the sensor isn't cheaper than the whole cylinder.
      Wherever I searched for sensor it was 170€ as OEM Volvo. Cylinder I could find for 65€ made by Sachs. I can't find any other sensor. Paying 170€ for such little thing makes me nuts.
      Have you found it not being an OEM and for a little price?


      ---
      Maybe let's check something..
      The sensor which we are talking about is - 31325388 - isn't it?
      Avenger, you were talking with me about it in my previous topic (link) regarding "shakey shake". You also mentioned about Sachs whole unit. I will make some calls to nearest junkyards, but I am skeptical.

      Have someone any replacement tutorial? Is it reachable for a street guy like me? As far as I see it's accessible from the hood, but you have to pull out the battery and don't know what else is there.
      Last edited by mdziobas; 01-08-2020 at 06:12 AM.
      '05 S40 T5 Black /w Medusa & Trunk Lip

    11. #9
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Replacing the clutch master cylinder requires disassembling the interior, as it's up under the dash at a really weird angle. The last one I pulled, I disconnected the steering column to gain better access.

      It's a messy job and some awkward angles. So I wouldn't replace it unless you absolutely have to.
      Plus factor in the cost of seals, DOT4 fluid, getting a pressure bleeder if you don't have someone to help bleed the system, and you might as well replace the lines while everything is disconnected and you're back there.

    12. #10
      Junior Member mdziobas's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Replacing the clutch master cylinder requires disassembling the interior, as it's up under the dash at a really weird angle. The last one I pulled, I disconnected the steering column to gain better access.

      It's a messy job and some awkward angles. So I wouldn't replace it unless you absolutely have to.
      Plus factor in the cost of seals, DOT4 fluid, getting a pressure bleeder if you don't have someone to help bleed the system, and you might as well replace the lines while everything is disconnected and you're back there.
      How about replacing sensor? I found used sensors for 20€, but named as 0-1468992-2, which seems to be Ford Mondeo Mk4 part. Pump seems to be the same, I'll double check it later.
      Do you know something about replacing the sensor only? Should we go through hood or the interior? What I can see on diagrams the part of pump and sensor should be behind the wall, on engine's site. ****, there is no any information in web..
      '05 S40 T5 Black /w Medusa & Trunk Lip

    13. #11
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      I'm not sure about just the sensor, but I'm sure it'll be easier than replacing the whole master cylinder since the sensor is a much smaller piece.

      I'll see if I can find any pictures.

    14. #12
      Junior Member mdziobas's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      I'm not sure about just the sensor, but I'm sure it'll be easier than replacing the whole master cylinder since the sensor is a much smaller piece.

      I'll see if I can find any pictures.
      Thanks! The question is is the whole thing with pump and sensor inside or outside the interior.
      '05 S40 T5 Black /w Medusa & Trunk Lip

    15. #13
      Sensor itself:


      Sensor on the slave:
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    16. #14
      Junior Member mdziobas's Avatar
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      I've got three DTC's from VIDA:
      ECM-9110 Clutch pedal sensor - Faulty signal
      CEM-3F01 Clutch pedal sensor - Signal too low
      ECM-9100 Clutch pedal sensor - Faulty singal

      Symptoms are surely not working cruise control and jerking (on/off throttle and between gear change - I also read about them in several topics about the switch/sensor).


      I've ordered used one (CP Sensor) - gonna replace it and give feedback.
      Last edited by mdziobas; 01-09-2020 at 12:50 PM.
      '05 S40 T5 Black /w Medusa & Trunk Lip

    17. #15
      Junior Member mdziobas's Avatar
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      Guys, thanks! Resolved!

      Every single problem has been resolved by plugging in Clutch Position Sensor (this on clutch pump). It was totally unplugged.
      I am so happy! No more jerking, shaking when manipulating the throttle!

      I had this problem since I bought this car, didn't ever thought CPS could do this !
      '05 S40 T5 Black /w Medusa & Trunk Lip

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