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    1. #1
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      Angle Gear Resealing

      Hi fellas,
      Have any of you done this? I'm going to attempt to replace my prop shaft over the coming weeks and I also have a RHS axle that I'm going to throw on. Given this, there really isn't much more work required to take the angle gear right out! I've read a few threads on this topic and two bit have me a bit worried - removal of the giant metal notched nut (aka pre-load adjustment nut) and re-installation of same (with correct pre-load applied!). Wondering if I should maybe just either a) ask the local dealership to perform both these steps or b) just take it out and deliver the AG and ask them to do the resealing end to end.

      Here's a thread that provides a good break down...I haven't had a chance to look at VIDA yet for the more detailed procedures.

      https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/an...-leak-fix.html

      My angle gear has a leak between the seams, it seems. I don't think it's a huge leak but like some others have said, there is only 650ml in there so it wouldn't take that much or that long for a minor leak to cause damage.

      Pierre
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

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    3. #2
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      I did couple of AGs. Going to dealer ($180/hr) it may be cheaper in long term to buy a new one ($1600). Dealer will fsck it up most definitely, they usually have not the best mechanics.

      Resealing new to me AG I've got from ErieVovo: It had good splines, so I decided to keep it and reseal myself.



      You need this CTA tool:



      Buy Volvo or Permatex pink sealant:



      And angle protractor for torque-to-yield bolts (buy new):



      I took one shaft and both bearings out for clean/file/seals job. After putting everything back, the preload nut was one tooth off. If I move it in a marked position, the bearings were overtighten, so I decided to let it slack and tighten later if AG will start to howl.

      Another one. Here I tried to refurb input shaft in EU and replace all the bearing, the EU customs decided to tax repair guy for $300 since apparently you can't get junk part from USA.




      I would not recommend replacing this seal unless it's leaking. If you decide to touch it, the AG would need a new crush sleeve and a proper bearing preloading - not quite impossible to do in garage, but mistake is easy to do, and that would cost you AG.



      Otherwise, replaces 3 input shafts seals and O-ring while you are there. Plus new breather/filter.

      Also test/feel input shaft splines with a small screwdriver along the full length. If you feel any notches - replace the AG, it will chew up itself and collar sleeves, and will finally strip, like mine did. Not worth resealing it.

      While the AG is split in halves, you may want to drill the lowest bolt through, so the AG will have a drain plug now. Use caution not to damage the threads. Add copper washer to the bolt and apply liberal amount of sealant, on the threads-free part.

    4. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      I did couple of AGs. Going to dealer ($180/hr) it may be cheaper in long term to buy a new one ($1600). Dealer will fsck it up most definitely, they usually have not the best mechanics.

      Resealing new to me AG I've got from ErieVovo: It had good splines, so I decided to keep it and reseal myself.



      You need this CTA tool:



      Buy Volvo or Permatex pink sealant:



      And angle protractor for torque-to-yield bolts (buy new):



      I took one shaft and both bearings out for clean/file/seals job. After putting everything back, the preload nut was one tooth off. If I move it in a marked position, the bearings were overtighten, so I decided to let it slack and tighten later if AG will start to howl.

      Another one. Here I tried to refurb input shaft in EU and replace all the bearing, the EU customs decided to tax repair guy for $300 since apparently you can't get junk part from USA.




      I would not recommend replacing this seal unless it's leaking. If you decide to touch it, the AG would need a new crush sleeve and a proper bearing preloading - not quite impossible to do in garage, but mistake is easy to do, and that would cost you AG.



      Otherwise, replaces 3 input shafts seals and O-ring while you are there. Plus new breather/filter.

      Also test/feel input shaft splines with a small screwdriver along the full length. If you feel any notches - replace the AG, it will chew up itself and collar sleeves, and will finally strip, like mine did. Not worth resealing it.

      While the AG is split in halves, you may want to drill the lowest bolt through, so the AG will have a drain plug now. Use caution not to damage the threads. Add copper washer to the bolt and apply liberal amount of sealant, on the threads-free part.
      Thank you, great info and pics! Looks do-able. I see that you got the fancy tool to take the lock nut out...hmmmm, I may have to do same. So only one side is beveled, not both? Interesting. Was it easy enough to test whether the right load was placed on bearings upon re-installation? I'm guessing they should be free of play but not rough, right?
      I don't have a breather on mine...wondering how difficult it would be to install one. Thanks for the tip on the drain plug. I like that idea a lot!
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      I would not recommend replacing this seal unless it's leaking. If you decide to touch it, the AG would need a new crush sleeve and a proper bearing preloading - not quite impossible to do in garage, but mistake is easy to do, and that would cost you AG.


      Otherwise, replaces 3 input shafts seals and O-ring while you are there. Plus new breather/filter.
      Can you clarify which seal you would recommend NOT be replaced? I was planning on replacing 2x #3, 2x #15, 1x #12 and 1x #5 in image below. Does that make sense? Is one of those the one you refer to?

      https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s...rimLevel=28254
      Last edited by bigtimemcalpine; 01-09-2020 at 12:21 PM.
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by bigtimemcalpine View Post
      Can you clarify which seal you would recommend NOT be replaced? I was planning on replacing 2x #3, 2x #15, 1x #12 and 1x #5 in image below. Does that make sense? Is one of those the one you refer to?

      https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s...rimLevel=28254
      5,6. Any seal that sits behind flange 2. If you remove the flange, new crush sleeve and preload adjustment are needed.

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by bigtimemcalpine View Post
      Was it easy enough to test whether the right load was placed on bearings upon re-installation? I'm guessing they should be free of play but not rough, right?
      I don't have a breather on mine...wondering how difficult it would be to install one. Thanks for the tip on the drain plug. I like that idea a lot!
      I had another AG laying around, with the stripped splines. Preload was set by hand feel, comparing to how it was preloaded on the failed AG. In short, it should not bind, nor have any slack. Dry AG will be clicking in pinions, don't pay much attention to it while preloading, it's not the slack.

      The right way to preload is, of course, get a precision low-range torque wrench. I didn't have it, maybe next time...

      All AGs have the breather. Yours may have an older design, like that:



      It better be replaced with a new "mushroom" design. Put the filter on right before bolting AG to the transmission: filter is very easy to break, I had 3 of them broken =)

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      I had another AG laying around, with the stripped splines. Preload was set by hand feel, comparing to how it was preloaded on the failed AG. In short, it should not bind, nor have any slack. Dry AG will be clicking in pinions, don't pay much attention to it while preloading, it's not the slack.

      The right way to preload is, of course, get a precision low-range torque wrench. I didn't have it, maybe next time...

      All AGs have the breather. Yours may have an older design, like that:



      It better be replaced with a new "mushroom" design. Put the filter on right before bolting AG to the transmission: filter is very easy to break, I had 3 of them broken =)
      OK thanks - if my filter does look like the one in the pic, does it just yank out with the new one being pushed back in? I ask as all the pics of the replacement filter show it as a smooth copper sleeve.
      I appreciate your input. Sounds like keeping the companion sleeve on is the right move. In your experience, does the seal in behind it take lots of abuse or does it typically survive just fine over lifetime of AG?
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    10. #8
      Member Antherzoll's Avatar
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      I'd buy or pick a used angle gear before performing this job. Perform the necessary repairs on the new angle gear then it's all bolt on come time to install instead of potentially leaving your vehicle out of commission for an extended period of time on axle stands .

      All of what VTL says is spot on.
      Last edited by Antherzoll; 01-09-2020 at 06:03 PM.
      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by bigtimemcalpine View Post
      OK thanks - if my filter does look like the one in the pic, does it just yank out with the new one being pushed back in? I ask as all the pics of the replacement filter show it as a smooth copper sleeve.
      I appreciate your input. Sounds like keeping the companion sleeve on is the right move. In your experience, does the seal in behind it take lots of abuse or does it typically survive just fine over lifetime of AG?
      I've had the old breather extracted with help of cutting pliers, new one has been greased and installed by tapping through a wood plank. Real easy.

      IMO that seal only leaks if the bearing has died and the whole AG is falling apart. The seal on my AG w/ 220k miles was all dry, no leaks. I had all the quality parts needed for a full AG rebuild, however a correct bearing preload is so crucial for the long life of AG that I decided not to touch it in donor AG that its bearings in a visually fair state.

      P2 XC70 don't suffer from crappy SKF bearings made in south Asia that Volvo started to use after 2007. Failed bearings in AG or final drive in P2 V70/XC70 is something unheard off, unlike 2008+ P3 or XC90.

    12. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      I did couple of AGs. Going to dealer ($180/hr) it may be cheaper in long term to buy a new one ($1600). Dealer will fsck it up most definitely, they usually have not the best mechanics.


      Yeah. Most definitely.

      I've never messed up one filter, let alone three.

      And did you use anaerobic sealer? Looks like it. And that's wrong.
      Last edited by Tech; 01-09-2020 at 10:23 PM.

    13. #11
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      Thanks guys, great feedback all around! @antherzoll - Iíve got he luxury of access to a third vehicle for a few months so all good.


      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    14. #12
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      Also, there is no crush sleeve. You can replace the pinion shaft seal. The procedure is in VIDA.

    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Also, there is no crush sleeve. You can replace the pinion shaft seal. The procedure is in VIDA.
      Part number 8689678



      Without correct preload the bearing will die in 2-3 years, even if you got the preload in the correct range. Correct preload requires a new crush sleeve.

    16. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Also, there is no crush sleeve. You can replace the pinion shaft seal. The procedure is in VIDA.
      Part number 8689678



      Without correct preload the bearing will die in 2-3 years, even if you got the preload in the correct range. Correct preload requires a new crush sleeve.
      That part number is for rear ends in 780s, 850s, S/V/XC70 up to 2000.

      The only bevel gear that used it was a 1997 850.

      Try and find it on a parts diagram for a P2. Or any mention of it in the replacement procedure for the pinion shaft seal.
      Last edited by Tech; 01-10-2020 at 12:26 PM.

    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      That part number is for rear ends in 780s, 850s, S/V/XC70 up to 2000.

      The only bevel gear that used it was a 1997 850.

      Try and find it on a parts diagram for a P2. Or any mention of it in the replacement procedure for the pinion shaft seal.
      This is from my bevel gear from MY2005 XC70.

    18. #16
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      Great. Look up the parts diagram and procedure. Not there.

      I've probably resealed at least 50. Much longer than 2 to 3 years ago. Never had one come back.

      The dealer I work at has collectively resealed who knows how many. Have yet to see one come back with a pinion bearing problem.
      Last edited by Tech; 01-10-2020 at 01:19 PM.

    19. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Great. Look up the parts diagram and procedure. Not there.
      According to parts diagram in VIDA, BG does not have anything between its halves. Take one BG fully apart, just for your own education.
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      I've probably resealed at least 50. Much longer than 2 to 3 years ago. Never had one come back.

      The dealer I work at has collectively resealed who knows how many. Have yet to see one come back with a pinion bearing problem.
      This is good to know that the customers didn't return to you with another BG problem. Crush sleeve is still there, and this is a one time use thing, just like torque-to-yield bolts, that some people still reuse.

    20. #18
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      Here on SS: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...on-for-failure

      Search for the "new bearings on the pinion gear shaft and all four new bearing races"

      Here the pictures are gone, but the guy also mentions crush sleeve, which he decided NOT to reuse (wise): https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...the-angle-gear
      Last edited by vtl; 01-10-2020 at 02:02 PM.

    21. #19
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      My education is fine, thanks.

      Parts diagram doesn't show sealant between the halves... Is that why you used the wrong sealant?

      Removing the pinion flange, replacing the seal and reinstalling the flange properly (180-200 Nm) will not lead to problems in 2-3 years. For your education.
      Last edited by Tech; 01-10-2020 at 02:32 PM.

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Great. Look up the parts diagram and procedure. Not there.
      ...
      Parts diagram doesn't show sealant between the halves... Is that why you used the wrong sealant?
      So, by that you admit that the parts diagram does not list everything and the AG has that crush sleeve, or what?

      There's certainly a reason for a weak AWD in these P2 Volvo's, I get it. Bad design and miserable cost savings in repairs.



      https://books.google.com/books?id=jR...sleeve&f=false

      In 140k miles I had to fix AWD in my XC70, let's see... 2 collar sleeves, 1 Haldex pump, 1 propeller shaft, 1 bevel gear.

    23. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Great. Look up the parts diagram and procedure. Not there.
      ...
      Parts diagram doesn't show sealant between the halves... Is that why you used the wrong sealant?
      So, by that you admit that the parts diagram does not list everything and the AG has that crush sleeve, or what?

      There's certainly a reason for a weak AWD in these P2 Volvo's, I get it. Bad design and miserable cost savings in repairs.



      https://books.google.com/books?id=jR...sleeve&f=false

      In 140k miles I had to fix AWD in my XC70, let's see... 2 collar sleeves, 1 Haldex pump, 1 propeller shaft, 1 bevel gear.
      Sure, its there. But it isn't part of the repair procedure which, if followed, will lead to no problems in 2 or 3 years like you claim. We don't remove the pinion to replace the seal. Torquing the pinion flange according to the procedure is all you need to do.
      Last edited by Tech; 01-10-2020 at 05:55 PM.

    24. #22
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      Very interesting. I've only ever heard of this repair being done with a new crush sleeve. I assume if you reused the old crush sleeve and torqued it enough to securely fasten the parts together without compressing it further then it would maintain the same tolerances, but this would only work if you were to only replace the seal and reusing the exsisting bearings. If new bearings are installed then a new crush washer will need to be used as the new bearings will require a different preload.

      So Tech, are bearings part if the service, or do you only replace the seal?
      Last edited by Antherzoll; 01-10-2020 at 09:27 PM.
      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    25. #23
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      Volvo doesn't have a procedure for replacing the bearings that I'm aware of. Yes, it can be done and yes, it would require a new crush sleeve. But for simply resealing an angle gear, the procedure is just to bevel the edge of the one half (which is totally pointless if you use anaerobic sealant), replace the seals, vent, filter and o-ring. The link in the first post isn't just some write up, it's the bulletin straight from Volvo.
      Last edited by Tech; 01-10-2020 at 09:29 PM.

    26. #24
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      @tech and @vtl - thanks for the spirited contributions. Iíve got a much better appreciation for this stuff and now feel comfortable attacking this one!


      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    27. #25
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      Quote Originally Posted by bigtimemcalpine View Post
      @tech and @vtl - thanks for the spirited contributions. I’ve got a much better appreciation for this stuff and now feel comfortable attacking this one!


      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      You should be able to handle it. Just be sure to use the correct sealant. You can use anaerobic, but don't bother beveling the edge and make sure to apply it correctly (roll on, not a bead). I wouldn't though, as that's the original sealant which failed and caused Volvo to issue to updated procedure in the first place.

      Without the special tool, you'll have to get creative to install the input shaft seal. DIYers probably install it before putting the case together. I'd also suggest replacing the input shaft sleeve and thoroughly greasing it with the proper grease.
      Last edited by Tech; 01-11-2020 at 08:28 AM.

    28. #26
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      Well the good news is that I got the shaft and angle gear out. The bad news is that one angle gear bolt snapped without warning. But hereís my favourite part, spent 10min looking for the top AG bolt. Took some pics but could not find. What I did find however was a bolt hole with no bolt. Wait, thereís more. The hole is filled with whatís left of the bolt. So two broken bolts to deal with. Love it.


      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    29. #27
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      JFC! That's terrible! The AG that keeps on giving
      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    30. #28
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      I just resealed my AG on my Ď05 SR. It was a rushed job and I wasnít too happy about that. I used standard gear box RTV, and didnít bevel the case. And because of the rushed nature of the work, didnít replace all the seals. Luckily the leaking seals were at the ring gear preload adjustment - the crown ring , so they were easy to get to.
      I had previously taken the car to a shop to have a new collar installed (among other things) and found when doing this job that they hadnít installed the top bolt. I was pretty disappointed given their reputation.
      The splines on my input shaft didnít look great (you canít strip a collar and not do at least some damage to the AG input), so Iíll probably spice a better one and do a full reseal at some point.

      For the crown ring removal, I had a 2í length of 1/4Ēx2Ē mild steel lying around that fit nicely in the crown portion and gave me nice leverage.

      You probably already know this, but use a center punch or something similar to mark the location of the crown ring and donít forget to COUNT the number of turns when taking it off. Thats if youíre not replacing the bearings.

    31. #29
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      I've had the old breather extracted with help of cutting pliers, new one has been greased and installed by tapping through a wood plank. Real easy.

      IMO that seal only leaks if the bearing has died and the whole AG is falling apart. The seal on my AG w/ 220k miles was all dry, no leaks. I had all the quality parts needed for a full AG rebuild, however a correct bearing preload is so crucial for the long life of AG that I decided not to touch it in donor AG that its bearings in a visually fair state.

      P2 XC70 don't suffer from crappy SKF bearings made in south Asia that Volvo started to use after 2007. Failed bearings in AG or final drive in P2 V70/XC70 is something unheard off, unlike 2008+ P3 or XC90.
      Angle gear is out and the seal in behind the companion flange looks totally dry. I'm going to let this sleeping dog lie.
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    32. #30
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      Hereís what Iím up against.



      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    33. #31
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      Yeah, this is pain... Use new bolts VIDA says.

      Also, collar sleeve looks almost stripped. The splines on the AG shaft are bad too, most certainly.

    34. #32
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      Collar and sleeve look way worse than they are. Iím told 01-02 donít put same sudden torque on sleeves like the 03+ so likely will not replace. I will take a hard look at both when I clean the whole mess up.

      Staring at the angle gear pics and it just occurred to me that Iím pretty sure you could slam the axle back in without reinstalling the angle gear itself and have a fully functional fwd. I was aware you could run these fwd but everything I read suggested you needed the AG. Not so sure about that. Anyway, Iím still keen on keeping mine AWD for time being so not really a factor.


      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    35. #33
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      Yes you can. Just keep the collar sleeve in place. Sleeve should stay in place, but I've seen people add hose clamps as a way of locking it in.
      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    36. #34
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      Angle Gear Resealing

      Alright, hereís the update. Bottom hole is perfectly centred drilled and ready for re-tapping. Check.

      Top bolt is drilled through but the hole is off centre I guess because my perspective was off when I started. Crap. Any ideas on best course of action for this one. Iím afraid that I I keep drilling that the hole is just going to start cutting into the softer aluminum and put things off centre. I have no faith in extractors and really donít want to break one and be back to square one.



      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    37. #35
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      I just went through this with my S60R. You may be able eat away at the larger portion with a Dremel. I ended up having to drill and tap it a size bigger.
      2007 V70R GT Electric Silver/Nordkap
      2005 XC70 It's got HIDs yo.
      2006 S60R Black Sapphire M66

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