I hate the stock airbox, so - 2.4i intake
Username
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Results 1 to 31 of 31
    1. #1
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262

      I hate the stock airbox, so - 2.4i intake

      I've had to venture below the airbox a few times now in my S40 2.4i. Now I may be clumsy, but every single time this blasted thing has been the hardest part of the repair by miles.

      Most recently I was heading under there to take a look at a sticky starter (which seems to have solved itself for now). I did what avenger09123 suggested - cut off the leftmost "arm" holding the box, which was a hugely helpful maneuver, I was able (just) to remove the box without shifting the engine.

      Though I got the box out, I severed a coolant hose doing so (my fault), and was generally fed up with its bulk and how tricky you had to be with it and everything around it to coax it out.

      Enough was enough for me, so in the interests of serviceability and not noise, MPG, power, or any other dubious claims that come with an intake:



      This is a Spectre 9833 inline air box with two silicone elbows (trimmed a little), a Spectre 87051 MAF mount which seems to have our stock MAF tube's inner diameter (simpler than the similar Spectre 9405 kit), and a bookshelf bracket holding the ECU (subject to improvement, hopefully). Other things include a 3" coupler and a 10mm breather filter, which clamps around the breather line with the OEM 90 degree elbow removed from it. Also: sink strainer mesh before the MAF tube to emulate the pre-MAF mesh in the OEM box. It's a good hint from a member on here, from the Cheap Mods thread I believe. I had a lumpy idle and hesitant acceleration before doing that, silky smooth now.

      Notable things:
      Oiled gauze air filters are notoriously less than ideal. I'm using foam as a pre-filter (oiled lightly with foam-specific stuff) to hopefully shore up the filtration a bit on both the airbox filter and the breather filter. You can see it on the breather filter, I did something very similar with the one inside the airbox.

      It's quiet until 4k RPM! This is why I chose the relatively small diameter airbox - didn't want any din from an oversized one. Ironically in my case it's quieter than the stock setup at low RPM, as the "elbow" going to the snorkel was rattly in my S40. Per Spectre, the CFM rating (of the box, not just the filter itself) should be well over what's needed for the 2.4i, and I'm certain I haven't lost any appreciable amount of power.


      Figured I'd share an inexpensive way to throw together a very simple intake for the 2.4i. No codes so far, but I'll update with developments if there are any.
      Last edited by lunalolvo; 04-23-2020 at 09:42 AM.

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. #2
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,587
      makes oil changes so much easier!
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    4. #3
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      makes oil changes so much easier!
      I never had an S40 with the early airbox resonator, so I can't say I've ever had trouble with oil changes. I did have a lower engine cover with the hole in the wrong spot though, had to hack away my own oil drain hole - that was fun

      I can finally get to the transmission fluid dipstick without taking off the ECU cover to make enough space for my hands - that's an upgrade for sure

    5. Remove Advertisements
      SwedeSpeed.com
      Advertisements
       

    6. #4
      Member EngTech's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Knight's of the Round Table - TN
      Posts
      8,343
      Sure Seems - these - 2.4 with Natural Breathing - would Benefit - Most from Lower Intake Porting & Cams . .
      Matching that Upper Better to Lower "Ported Unit" seems would be 15HP .. then Cams 10HP so Combined 28HP . .
      Sure would be Rev Happy . .

      Pop lower unit on E-bay for $50. and Ship it to Me ~ I'll Port it for $325.00 it's really easy - "DIY" Bolt On

      ps: Have to take a Look at Exhaust Manifold ~ Make it into Header ..
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    7. #5
      That is awesome dude. I never considered in an IN-LINE air filter, that's awesome.

      That filter is fine, the 2.4i only pulls 165 CFM at 6500RPM if you account for stroke, RPM, and volumetric efficiency, so you'll be fine on a filter that size.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 01-11-2020 at 01:01 AM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    8. #6
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,587
      Quote Originally Posted by EngTech View Post
      Sure Seems - these - 2.4 with Natural Breathing - would Benefit - Most from Lower Intake Porting & Cams . .
      Matching that Upper Better to Lower "Ported Unit" seems would be 15HP .. then Cams 10HP so Combined 28HP . .
      Sure would be Rev Happy . .

      Pop lower unit on E-bay for $50. and Ship it to Me ~ I'll Port it for $325.00 it's really easy - "DIY" Bolt On

      ps: Have to take a Look at Exhaust Manifold ~ Make it into Header ..
      If anyone spent that much money on a 2.4i i think id, actually i spent about that much on my old 2.4i in odd-ball accessories so i guess its not that crazy lol
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    9. #7
      Member EngTech's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Knight's of the Round Table - TN
      Posts
      8,343

      Porting Increases volumetric efficiency

      Turbo's are getting 11-12Hp to say 14Hp on Lower Unit Depending on Tune ~ that a Motor that's Being Assisted Via ~ Turbo .. volumetric efficiency .. is way Lower on on Vac Pump ~ Normal Motor ..
      Any Improvement in Going to achieve Higher Results , seeing 2.4i already has Header style Exhaust - Now the Front of the Motor needs to be Un_Corked ..
      Matching the Upper & Lower Unit and Ported Lower Unit ~ 15Hp..

      ( 2400cc / 2 ) x 6000rpm/1728 = CFM 254.254

      Then Take Cu. Ft. Min. 254.254 x .85 volumetric efficiency = 216 C. F. M

      216 CMF could be Bumped Up to .92 or More with Porting 234 CFM through Motor ..so approx 3.75 Cu. ft. Per Cly. ( Increase )


      ps: Exhaust Header - Looks pretty good - I'd maybe do Port Match to the Gasket as on Turbo Motors the Exhaust Flange is under sized .080 & Shifted .060 . .
      Most Likely the ~ 2.4i Exhaust Ports in Head aren't Aligned any Better to Manifold Exit ~
      Last edited by EngTech; 01-11-2020 at 09:27 AM.
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    10. #8
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      That is awesome dude. I never considered in an IN-LINE air filter, that's awesome.

      That filter is fine, the 2.4i only pulls 165 CFM at 6500RPM if you account for stroke, RPM, and volumetric efficiency, so you'll be fine on a filter that size.
      Yeah, and I'm hoping foam doesn't restrict it too much - I really don't trust the bare filter on its own. I have 1/4" 30PPI stuff on there which I suspect won't be enough, so I may bump it to 60PPI later on. Planning on doing a UOA on the setup as is and seeing what comes up.



      Photo was being weird on some browsers, I think I fixed that

    11. #9
      Member EngTech's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Knight's of the Round Table - TN
      Posts
      8,343
      PORTING WOULD Bring may more then Cold Air ~


      ( 2400cc / 2 ) x 6000rpm/1728 = CFM 254.254

      Then Take Cu. Ft. Min. 254.254 x .85 volumetric efficiency = 216 C. F. M

      216 CMF could be Bumped Up to .92 or More with Porting 234 CFM through Motor ..so approx 3.75 Cu. ft. Per Cly. ( Increase )


      ps: Exhaust Header - Looks pretty good - I'd maybe do Port Match to the Gasket as on Turbo Motors the Exhaust Flange is under sized .080 & Shifted .060 . .
      Most Likely the ~ 2.4i Exhaust Ports in Head aren't Aligned any Better to Manifold Exit ~
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    12. #10
      Member EngTech's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Knight's of the Round Table - TN
      Posts
      8,343
      Just trying to Demonstrate Improving ~ volumetric efficiency ~

      Ported.jpg
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    13. #11
      Quote Originally Posted by EngTech View Post
      Just trying to Demonstrate Improving ~ volumetric efficiency ~

      Ported.jpg
      Cool graphic. I accounted for 60% VE since 80% and above was usually forced induction vehicles and he's got a 2.4i
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    14. #12
      Member 80sGuy's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2013
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      1,010
      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      makes oil changes so much easier!
      Never an issue with oil-changes on the 2.4i, only the 2.5 Turbo where you'd have to remove part of the front duct/snorkel for clearance to the oil filter.

    15. #13
      Member EngTech's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Knight's of the Round Table - TN
      Posts
      8,343
      2.4I is pretty Good seeing it has 4 Valve Head and Medium Header with 11:1 Compression ,so more Like .88
      But there are Improvements to be Had , as Described . .

      I went back through the Calu. using more Acute Numbers : 228 Cfm @ 6000 Rpms
      Ported would be Up around 242 Cfm ..


      Author of Formula _ says Turbo Motors today are 100% or More as to Recovery of Waster Energy being used to Pressurize Intake .. I don't see it this Way has As the Turbo's are Very Restrictive
      Hence Cutting Back of the Exducer Wheel and Opening up Waste Gate some ~ allow ~ a Lot more Top End - Higher Spin on Turbo also .. - When I Port the Turbo Manifold I also Open up - Internal Passage way to Main Exhaust Scroll


      Porting the Lower Unit and Matching the Exhaust Manifold Plate ( S. Steel ) probably SS409 as those do get Rusty ~ Port & Ceramic Coat on that would be 1 step ..
      Better step would be Matching Up and Streamline Lower Intake Manifold - Taking out all the Casting Web , Major Roughness . . Steps between the Mating Surfaces - has to be at Least 16Hp / 12 ft. lbs Tq. in there .. Dan
      Last edited by EngTech; 01-12-2020 at 11:05 AM.
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    16. #14
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      Some interesting points:

      Per the Amazon customer Q&A page, the filter box can be oriented both ways, with the cone facing incoming air, or facing the throttle body. There is some CFM benefit to the latter, and that's how I originally installed it (by mistake).
      I've since flipped the box so the filter cone points towards incoming air (the prefilter was wrapped around the cone, so for now that's really the only valid orientation from a filtration standpoint).

      Throttle response is a bit more similar to stock than with the filter reversed (less jumpy)
      Induction "honk" can be heard sooner than with the filter reversed. It's not loud to start, just a tone difference. Now starts at ~3k, as opposed to ~4k with the filter reversed.
      I may wrap the prefilter on the inside of the cone and reinstall it reversed just so it's quieter in the future, but I'm keeping it as is for now.
      Last edited by lunalolvo; 01-12-2020 at 04:37 PM.

    17. #15
      Member EngTech's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      Knight's of the Round Table - TN
      Posts
      8,343
      What No Electric Fan to Boost Air Flow ?

      What CFM is rated for ?

      How many Sq. Inches of Air Filter ?

      Anyone running 70mm Throttle-body ?

      Aren't there any other wireless throttle bodies ? sure seems someone would have come up with Nice set up
      by now , seems VW 2.5 5 cly. has more support . .
      ** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
      A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc

    18. #16
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      365 CFM forward, 427 reversed per the guy from Spectre one of the buyers spoke to.

      Can't imagine that the throttle body is a bottleneck for the 2.4i (don't think the Porsche one bolts up) nor is the stock intake.

      I have a 2.5 Golf, and would spend probably $2k+ to get an appreciable horsepower gain - intake, intake manifold, exhaust, tune. Even so, it might only make the 200 mark. Lots of noise, still not much power. At that point why not buy a t5?

    19. #17
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Takoma Park, MD
      Posts
      757
      Lunalovo, it sure looks like the engine will be a lot easier to work on. Do you have any worries about ECU cooling? The stock airbox seems to have some ducting across the ECU cooling fins.
      Mark

      "New-to-me" V50 Back from the dead.

    20. #18
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      Quote Originally Posted by mf70 View Post
      Lunalovo, it sure looks like the engine will be a lot easier to work on. Do you have any worries about ECU cooling? The stock airbox seems to have some ducting across the ECU cooling fins.
      The Simota kit uses a similar placement and claims no issues. I believe a member on here had overheating issues with a DIY setup that were resolved by moving the ECU closer to the battery cooling duct. Someone else preemptively made an extra hole in that same duct, so there are options.
      Last edited by lunalolvo; 01-14-2020 at 10:09 AM.

    21. #19
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      Somewhat related update:

      I've had super low idle LTFT values related to: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?401201 , https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...uns-great-2-4i

      As I had disconnected the crankcase breather from the airbox and it now has its own filter, I had a bit of flexibility to mess around with the left over vacuum line "elbow". Usually the vacuum ejector valve only is sold in a full assembly (~$100), but P/N 30744402 (can be found under $30) is used on both turbo and N/A 5 cylinder P2s. Remarkably similar to the original, but with "ribbed" nibs on the ends. With some hose trickery and home depot clamps it can be made to fit:

      Idle LTFT has gone from -17% to just around -2%.
      Last edited by lunalolvo; 02-02-2020 at 02:00 PM.

    22. #20
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      Update on ECU bracket:

      I drilled out and bent a "safety plate" I had bought for like $2 from Home Depot a while ago with the intent to replace my jerry-rigged bookshelf bracket ECU holder. This gave me a few more placement options, and much better appearance once painted with hi-temp grill paint.

      That coolant hose that wraps around the ECU on my car limits how far towards the radiator I can move the ECU. I was able to swing it to the other side of the ECU, by relocating one of the hose "holders" by the radiator. Gives about 1" clearance with the ECU.

      I attempted installing the ECU the other way around, with the heatsink facing the radiator, and found that the wiring bundle had to be quite strained to achieve this placement. I decided to just angle it upwards to hopefully improve heat dissipation but ultimately opted not to flip it around. The wires of the bundle aren't actually "bundled" in all places, and their insulation is aged and stiff.

      Last edited by lunalolvo; 05-20-2020 at 04:04 PM.

    23. #21
      Member evy0311's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Ohio, USA
      Posts
      1,520

      I hate the stock airbox, so - 2.4i intake

      Looking at doing this here hopefully next week. I know you mentioned you had issues a while back with the grumbly idle until warm. I recently replaced that whole vacuum hose with the brake ejector valve and what not. Did doing this intake cause your issues with the hose, or was it just aged?

      I just want to make sure doing this won’t cause the hose to prematurely fail, I doubt it would but wanted to check. Any updates after running this for a while? Any issues with cooling the ECU? Or any issues with anything else? Thanks again for the info on this, looking forward to doing this (I hate working with the stock air box anytime I have to do anything to the car).

      Edit: also another question. I’m looking to make the air intake bring in fresh air from directly in front of the throttle body and through the grill. If I had a pipe come straight into the throttle body with no right angle, would this throw a code on the MAF? I’ve heard the MAF on this motor is super sensitive to high volumes of air coming in without being slowed down first, but may just need some trial and error.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Last edited by evy0311; 07-09-2020 at 11:17 PM.
      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    24. #22
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      The vacuum hose had gone south well prior to the intake being installed, so they're completely unrelated. If you have a new one, you're good to go.

      No issues with anything thus far. I would consider doing what I did by wrapping the cone filter with a layer of oiled foam. I have used those filters naked before and there was dust on the wrong side of the intake. That dust makes its way into the engine, scores the cylinder walls and eventually loses you compression. Next oil change I'll be running another used oil analysis to know for sure what effect this filter setup had on silica in oil - that'll be a scientific answer to whether it's safe or not.
      Either way you'll have more air filter upkeep to do here, as you're replacing the stock air filter with an objectively inferior set of filters that let more dirt by.
      Cooling seems okay so far, but be advised that placement of the ECU is finicky, in that it likes to bang into the fan shroud or interfere with the shift linkage. Special care is required with the wires, which get stiff and brittle with age. You'll have to spend some time mounting it. No heat issues yet, but I've only driven in up to 90 degree weather or so.

      I wouldn't go the straight through the grill route for a few reasons. I know that intake design is used on the PCP concept and seems cool, but you're on the money - the MAF knows what it likes. Somewhere up there I mentioned that the car idled kind of funny until I added mesh ahead of the MAF, and that was with similar-to-stock routing. I'm certain the MAF would be harder to make amends with if you go straight out with the intake, and even if the car runs okay it may run rich all the time.

      Additionally, the routing I went with here retains some resistance to water/dirt intrusion due to the bends, whereas with the straight out design the filter media is getting hammered with whatever is in front of your car, with no bends to slow it down first. The filter will go bad faster this way too.

    25. #23
      Quote Originally Posted by lunalolvo View Post
      The vacuum hose had gone south well prior to the intake being installed, so they're completely unrelated. If you have a new one, you're good to go.

      No issues with anything thus far. I would consider doing what I did by wrapping the cone filter with a layer of oiled foam. I have used those filters naked before and there was dust on the wrong side of the intake. That dust makes its way into the engine, scores the cylinder walls and eventually loses you compression. Next oil change I'll be running another used oil analysis to know for sure what effect this filter setup had on silica in oil - that'll be a scientific answer to whether it's safe or not.
      Either way you'll have more air filter upkeep to do here, as you're replacing the stock air filter with an objectively inferior set of filters that let more dirt by.
      Cooling seems okay so far, but be advised that placement of the ECU is finicky, in that it likes to bang into the fan shroud or interfere with the shift linkage. Special care is required with the wires, which get stiff and brittle with age. You'll have to spend some time mounting it. No heat issues yet, but I've only driven in up to 90 degree weather or so.

      I wouldn't go the straight through the grill route for a few reasons. I know that intake design is used on the PCP concept and seems cool, but you're on the money - the MAF knows what it likes. Somewhere up there I mentioned that the car idled kind of funny until I added mesh ahead of the MAF, and that was with similar-to-stock routing. I'm certain the MAF would be harder to make amends with if you go straight out with the intake, and even if the car runs okay it may run rich all the time.

      Additionally, the routing I went with here retains some resistance to water/dirt intrusion due to the bends, whereas with the straight out design the filter media is getting hammered with whatever is in front of your car, with no bends to slow it down first. The filter will go bad faster this way too.
      Additionally, I highly recommend a rain sock if you're operating a cone. I have moved away from oiled filters due to their need to be cleaned and re-oiled and drained of excess. Basically I wanted to remove my own potential for error and destroy parts (particularly the MAF). I went with a dry AEM filter. To supplement this to avoid rain soaked Colorado days, I went with a rain sock from Outerwears - supposedly their design of the mesh makes it inherently hydrophobic, whereas everyone else I could find was a coating that had a 2 year lifespan before you had to buy another. So now on dry days it acts like a pre-filter. On wet days I don't have to worry about poor drainage in the construction areas of I-25.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    26. #24
      Member evy0311's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Ohio, USA
      Posts
      1,520
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Additionally, I highly recommend a rain sock if you're operating a cone. I have moved away from oiled filters due to their need to be cleaned and re-oiled and drained of excess. Basically I wanted to remove my own potential for error and destroy parts (particularly the MAF). I went with a dry AEM filter. To supplement this to avoid rain soaked Colorado days, I went with a rain sock from Outerwears - supposedly their design of the mesh makes it inherently hydrophobic, whereas everyone else I could find was a coating that had a 2 year lifespan before you had to buy another. So now on dry days it acts like a pre-filter. On wet days I don't have to worry about poor drainage in the construction areas of I-25.
      Would you be able to post up the models of what you used for filter and sock? This does seem better as I hate oiled filters, I’d be worried if mess something up and I’m sure many people around here know I’ve had many problems with my MAF in the past... LOL.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    27. #25
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Additionally, I highly recommend a rain sock if you're operating a cone. I have moved away from oiled filters due to their need to be cleaned and re-oiled and drained of excess. Basically I wanted to remove my own potential for error and destroy parts (particularly the MAF). I went with a dry AEM filter. To supplement this to avoid rain soaked Colorado days, I went with a rain sock from Outerwears - supposedly their design of the mesh makes it inherently hydrophobic, whereas everyone else I could find was a coating that had a 2 year lifespan before you had to buy another. So now on dry days it acts like a pre-filter. On wet days I don't have to worry about poor drainage in the construction areas of I-25.
      Also if going this route, if you can find an enclosure for that filter it'd be great - as far as I know, us naturally aspirated folks are hurt more by hotter intake air, and a filter hanging out in the engine bay will do more harm to us than the t5 folks.

    28. #26
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jun 2017
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      257
      Can you lose power this way? Someone told me that upgrading the intake without the intake manifold will cause you to drop a couple or HP. I have the T5 though.
      Barents Blue Metallic S40 T5 AWD M66 Manual

    29. #27
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      Quote Originally Posted by Tarsas View Post
      Can you lose power this way? Someone told me that upgrading the intake without the intake manifold will cause you to drop a couple or HP. I have the T5 though.
      Eh, probably. I've seen dyno tests of other cars with intakes but no tune, and they'd either make no difference or lose a few hp. Mine does seem to be running the same 0-60 as before though, so I doubt it's perceptible on the 2.4i.

    30. #28
      Quote Originally Posted by lunalolvo View Post
      Eh, probably. I've seen dyno tests of other cars with intakes but no tune, and they'd either make no difference or lose a few hp. Mine does seem to be running the same 0-60 as before though, so I doubt it's perceptible on the 2.4i.
      What you mean K&N LIED TO ME WITH THEIR MARKETING? GAH I AM A FOOL. Just kidding.

      AEM filter: 21-203D or 21-203DK (IIRC the only difference between them is one has a smooth surface the other has the AEM Logo)
      If you are feeling saucey and want slightly more surface area, you can get the 21-203D-XK.

      Outerwears Pre-Filter: Website says based on the same dimensions of the filter:
      Water Repellent
      20-1046
      Plain Pre-Filter
      10-1046

      Can you lose power? Meh. It just sucks in the hot air out of the enginebay first - same thing as the OEM box if you remove la snurkel. The only thing the cone does over the panel and the OEM box is (besides making oil changes easier), it relieves the pressure difference between the pre and post-filter areas easier. on an NA this is beneficial. On the turbo it just means the turbo can build boost faster and doesn't have to drop the pressure more to build the same amount over the same amount of time. Literally not much difference but less and easier servicing.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    31. #29
      Member evy0311's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Ohio, USA
      Posts
      1,520
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      What you mean K&N LIED TO ME WITH THEIR MARKETING? GAH I AM A FOOL. Just kidding.

      AEM filter: 21-203D or 21-203DK (IIRC the only difference between them is one has a smooth surface the other has the AEM Logo)
      If you are feeling saucey and want slightly more surface area, you can get the 21-203D-XK.

      Outerwears Pre-Filter: Website says based on the same dimensions of the filter:
      Water Repellent
      20-1046
      Plain Pre-Filter
      10-1046

      Can you lose power? Meh. It just sucks in the hot air out of the enginebay first - same thing as the OEM box if you remove la snurkel. The only thing the cone does over the panel and the OEM box is (besides making oil changes easier), it relieves the pressure difference between the pre and post-filter areas easier. on an NA this is beneficial. On the turbo it just means the turbo can build boost faster and doesn't have to drop the pressure more to build the same amount over the same amount of time. Literally not much difference but less and easier servicing.
      Awesome, thanks for the info!!

      So on my 2.4i, obviously no tuning will be done, so I shouldn’t feel any loss in power right? Maybe a bit snappier throttle but no loss in overall power? If I did I feel like it’d be negligible.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    32. #30
      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Awesome, thanks for the info!!

      So on my 2.4i, obviously no tuning will be done, so I shouldn’t feel any loss in power right? Maybe a bit snappier throttle but no loss in overall power? If I did I feel like it’d be negligible.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Correct. You shouldn't feel any loss of overall power. You should gain 0.1 or so MPG's if you don't spend your time hammering on the throttle. Only difference will be it'll suck in hot enginebay air, which in theory on ours results in 1 or 2 seconds of less than ideal temps and some loss of power due to hot air density vs cold air density. After that power delivery increases. But correct the speed of throttle response increases.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    33. #31
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Jersey->Boston
      Posts
      262
      After-summer update: no ECU heat issues to report, driven in 90-100 degree weather a couple times. Have barely driven during lockdown, so haven't had a chance to do a UOA yet.
      Despite oiled filter and "prefilter", no MAF issues to report. Didn't drench them in oil, though. Used the tacky Maxima stuff.

    34. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    Similar Threads

    1. S4 MAF in stock airbox w/ stock or K&N (or similar) filter
      By aznatama in forum R Forum (2004-2007)
      Replies: 9
      Last Post: 04-18-2017, 06:04 PM
    2. 2008 s40 2.4i stock airbox removal
      By nkdwpn40 in forum S40 & V50 (2005-2012)
      Replies: 26
      Last Post: 04-06-2014, 05:28 PM
    3. Yes i'm so lucky tonight, ow wait i'm so so SO unlucky!!
      By Bas_T5 in forum S40 & V50 (2005-2012)
      Replies: 4
      Last Post: 09-24-2013, 06:18 AM
    4. Replies: 11
      Last Post: 03-20-2012, 05:22 PM
    5. Hate...words cannot express how much I hate it when people...
      By SladetheSleeper in forum S70, V70 & V70XC (1998-2000)
      Replies: 11
      Last Post: 12-20-2009, 05:59 PM