What's your recipe for my S60R?
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    1. #1

      Question What's your recipe for my S60R?

      Hello R Experts!

      I recently purchased a 2005 S60R, manual trans, 105k miles for $2800. I know that there are some things that I need to do in order to get it to stage 0, and I wanted to get some performance recipes from you folks regarding how you would build up my S60R to fit the following goals:

      -This will be my commuter car (~25miles each way in the Denver metro area)
      -I'd like to keep it comfortable and easy to drive
      -I'd like to keep it as reliable as possible (for what the car is, I understand that it isn't a Honda/Toyota)
      -I'd like to do as many "best bang for the buck" mods as possible

      About me: I used to be a tech at a Ford/Infiniti dealer, so I'm going to try to do as much work myself as possible.

      What would you do with this car? What mods have been your favorite?

      Thank you all in advance!
      (I will post pics once I get the car cleaned up)

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    3. #2
      Moderator The Driver's Avatar
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      PCV System, Forge TCV swap, Plugs, Oil change, Air filter, Rad flush, Fuel Filter, Injector cleaning and most likely a new upper and lower engine torque brace.
      06R - Custom Electric Blue Silver - Suntek PPF / IGL Kenzo Coated / Llumar Airblue 80 / Huper Optic 40
      07R - Magic Blue IGL - Sold

    4. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by SWEDISHMEATISH View Post
      What mods have been your favorite?
      3" downpipe and upgraded intercooler.
      2006 V70R MT
      Sonic Blue / Gobi

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    6. #4
      Junior Member dyslex's Avatar
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      Snabb short throw shifter

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
      2005 S60R M66 MAGIKAP

    7. #5
      You lucky b******! You know that's highway robbery prices for that car with that kind of milage, even with more serious issues, and sounds like yours is largely problem free. Treat it well.

      As for mods, the traditional 2.5T / T5 "Trinity" - bigger intercooler, 3" downpipe, full exhaust, then a supporting Tune from Hilton, Elevate, or similar.

      In terms of maintenance, PCV, bushings, shocks (coilovers?), fluids, timing belt and water pump if that hasn't been done ... Normal stuff.
      Last edited by silent-circuit; 01-12-2020 at 01:14 AM.
      06 S40 T5 AWD : DO88 intercooler : 3" EST downpipe : Eibach springs (1" drop) : Magnaflow cat-back exhaust : Hilton stage 2.5 tune

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by silent-circuit View Post
      then a supporting Tune from Hilton, Elevate, or similar.
      I would take the similar option....

    9. #7
      Quote Originally Posted by kTaLgsTo View Post
      I would take the similar option....
      Hilton and Elevate both seem pretty well regarded from what I've seen, and are arguably the "big names" since Shark stopped doing tunes.

      Who would you recommend instead?

      Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
      06 S40 T5 AWD : DO88 intercooler : 3" EST downpipe : Eibach springs (1" drop) : Magnaflow cat-back exhaust : Hilton stage 2.5 tune

    10. #8
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      https://urbastuning.wordpress.com/
      Or
      S60rr on Instagram also

    11. #9
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      3" down pipe with exhaust upgrade. Front mount inter cooler and a tune by Contrast.

    12. #10
      Member qwkbrk's Avatar
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      Tires, tires, tires. As in dedicated summer tires. Modifications mean little if one slides around the corners, cannot put the power down, or hydroplanes into the ditch. The amount of wet grip Michelin Pilot Super Sport, and now Pilot Sport 4S, provides is astounding.

      Then consider a second set of inexpensive used wheels + dedicated winter tires = incredibly capable winter driver. It won't help the
      Check the bushings... 15 years regardless of miles could have some hard, cracking bushings, particularly in the front end.

      Upgraded anti-sway bars made a big difference in handling and stability around the curves. I'm sure there are some fun mountain roads in your area to explore.

      Tinted windows help tremendously with the glare, cabin temperature, and appearance.

      FMIC to alleviate heat soak in the warm weather, though it may not be quite as much an issue in Denver as warmer climates.

      Remove the hood blanket and foam air filter sock so you can hear the turbo spool and blowoff more. No performance gains, but it sounds cool.
      '06 Long Roof R Magic Blue | Eroticama | 3-Pedal Arrangement | 222k miles | My story: Addicted to a new drug: torque, baby!!!
      '06 S2000 Berlina Black | Black | 27k miles - garage queen | RIP 10/05/17, now a parts car.
      '06 S2000 Berlina Black | Black | 26k miles - garage queen
      '07 Passat 2.0T Wagon | Deep Black | Wifemobile | 161k miles

    13. #11
      Having 2 S60r simultaneously I can directly compare what mods are "Performance" and ones that are "feel good for the driver" My 04 has everything short of block shimming and is tuned, suspension upgrades, exhaust and anything my disposable $ could do since 2012. My 07 is mainly stock with some mods that were left over from the 04 when I went bigger and faster. I did all stage 0 on both cars and enjoy each one for what it is. the 04 is an awesome toy and the 07 is a reliable daily. For me the short throw shifter was one of my faves for the manuel, that and a forge bypass valve, and modified airbox and you can feel like you have a racer with out going broke. These are definitely "feel good" ones.

      Suspension, sways, bushings, exhaust, make slow commuting a drag around town. Don't get me wrong, I'd do it again in a heartbeat on my toy (for tearing around) but the 07 will remain stock from those things and OEM replacements are being installed as long as I own it. I wasn't aware how far I went away from stock comfort until i got another car. They are really wonderful the way there were intended to be.
      Last edited by headhunter_paintball; 01-12-2020 at 05:35 PM.
      04 S60r - Hilton Stage 3 Tuned
      07 S60r - Project Resurrection

    14. #12
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      At this age, I'd do a few things that will make a big difference in how it feels:

      1. Suspension bushings- all of them, including the subframe bushings. Since you have a shop with a lift and a hydraulic press, you should be able to do this easily. Rubber this old is hardened and generally perished.
      2. Engine mounts- all of them, for the same reason as the suspension bushings.
      3. Bigger swaybars, like the ipd set, with new bushings (obviously they come with new bushings if you buy new). The car in stock form rolls way too much, but this will impact ride quality so don't do it if comfort is a high priority.
      4. Downpipe- big difference in turbo spool up. Keep a stock-ish exhaust for sound levels or it will get obnoxious quickly.

    15. #13
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      Hey - I am local to Denver with an 07 VR M66. Feel free to message me and we can chat!

    16. #14
      Sorry for the delayed response, for some reason I wasn't getting emails about people replying to my thread, or that my thread actually got published...

      Regarding the responses, I'm VERY impressed by the knowledge-base and will be taking all of this in to account and I truly thank you all for your opinions. I've had previous experience where I bough a vehicle and didn't listen to the advice of those on the forums and regretted some decisions because of that.

      Also, for the fellow Denverite, I will be reaching out to you!

      I ordered a VIDA/DICE unit off of ebay today, as I'm finding out that is pretty important...

      Regarding things that I know I need to do:

      • Timing belt service (w/pulleys, tensioner, water pump) ASAP. Its on it's original one now at 105k and about 15 years.....yikes. I'll be doing this myself because the local "Volvo" shops want the same amount as the dealer at over $1000. So it looks like I'll be doing this in my cold, tiny garage!
      • Tires, they are shot and the fronts are worn much more on the inside edge than the outside. Chalking it up to bad control arm bushings (which are original) so I went ahead and ordered new control arms and ball joints on amazon.
      • It does have a clunking noise at low speed, so I also ordered some Moog front sway bar end links, hopefully that will quiet it down. Could be the spring seat instead/as well making the noise, TBD
      • No Check engine lights, but it does have the Anti-skid Service Required light on all the time. Not sure what it is yet, previous seller said that a shop took a look at it and said the "module was corroded". I'm assuming it's the haldex module, so I found a used on on ebay for a 06-07 one that will hopefully plug n play even though its the later "instant traction" one. If this isn't the problem, then I'm assuming it's the steering Angle Sensor (no ABS lights are on)
      • DRL bulb out message is on as well, but is the least of my concerns.
      • Passenger side window doesn't go up/down properly, assuming it was the sliding blocks so i ordered some replacements.
      • The HVAC isn't really blowing much at all from any of the vents, regardless of position. Blower motor sounds like its going at full bore, A/C compressor seems to be kicking on appropriately. I hope I don't have to do a dashboard-out style blend door service like I used to have to do on old Ford Explorers. Any thoughts?
      • I will also do regular tune-up stuff, as I'm pretty sure (from reading the service records) that the plugs are original.
      • As a few of you have mentioned, this definitely needs some mounts replaced. I know at least the upper engine mount, probably others.


      Follow-up questions:
      • Down-pipe 1st or exhaust, or both? Seems like the best gains come from the down-pipe by itself, is this true? Also, what down-pipe brand will be the least likely to cause me emissions issues in Colorado?
      • Mounts: stick with regular replacements, or should I go IPD for some of the mounts/bushings? Mix of both?
      • Sway bars: IPD track spec, who likes them? Who regrets them?
      • 4C struts: The struts may or may not be good on mine, but if you were to replace them would you stick with the 4Cs? Or change to another type and put in the resistor modification?


      Thanks again for all of your help!
      Last edited by SWEDISHMEATISH; 01-14-2020 at 12:42 PM.

    17. #15
      Member HunterBD's Avatar
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      What's your recipe for my S60R?

      1)DP and exhaust (I have the EST DP and Touring exhaust waiting to install)
      2) FCPEuro for all your OEM parts. iPD or Viva for performance bushings. (Powerflex?). I am currently putting in Powerflex in the rear end.
      3) I’ve always upgraded my bars to IPD in all my Volvo’s. Always an improvement.
      4). I went with 4C’s from FCPEURO. I bought the entire kit with spring seats, etc. A lifetime warranty replacement as long as I own my Vr. You could go with coil overs.
      5). I upgraded to TME springs from Viva. iPD has similar less expensive springs. You might want to consider if replacing shocks.


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      Last edited by HunterBD; 01-16-2020 at 01:12 PM.
      05 VR GT Titanium Grey/Nordakp, sunroof, Winter Package, Premium sound with Volvo Sub. VST rear brace, Ultra Racing front strut brace.

    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by SWEDISHMEATISH View Post

      Follow-up questions:
      • Down-pipe 1st or exhaust, or both? Seems like the best gains come from the down-pipe by itself, is this true? Also, what down-pipe brand will be the least likely to cause me emissions issues in Colorado?

      I have the Snabb catted downpipe and haven't had any issues with emissions testing here in Phoenix.

      As for the exhaust, be aware of the possibility of excessive droning with some aftermarket systems:
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...-exhaust-drone

      I have the factory rear exhaust and I have no complaints with it.

      And speaking of exhaust, be sure the EBD has been removed, and if not, get rid of it now!
      2006 V70R MT
      Sonic Blue / Gobi

    19. #17
      AAAHHH I think you just solved a mystery for me! So, the previous owner has a lot of maintenance records for this car, which is GREAT. However, he was trying to explain a situation to me where he ran over something and it caused a pretty costly repair that he got a lot covered by insurance. I'm now pretty convinced that he did hit the EBD, which hit the driveshaft (?). There are receipts for new angle gear, driveshaft, transmission, etc... but the underbody is in pretty good shape for what I saw yesterday. Granted I'm used to working on the underside of an old Chevy Express with 265k miles on it....

      I have the car on jack stands inside of my ****ty garage for the timing belt/WP change, I'll be checking on that exhaust bracket before I'm done, if it's still there haha.

      Great info from you guys on the DP and exhausts. I think my route will be DP only to avoid drone issues, and the short shifter I didn't even think about, but after all the good reviews that will now be top of the list.

    20. #18
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      For Dp I would go with Snabb or 8Eightfab, and have the cat back done at a shop and use a long resonator (19" or better) or the Vibrant ultra quiet with a good welded muffler (Magnaflow 14419?).

      Mounts, I would stick with the OEM for all but the upper engine mount and the lower torque mount (I went IPD). Do the IPD subframe inserts if you don't want to do the sub bushings right away.

      Sways, IPD, track might be a little stiff for the lovely Colorado roads. FYI, you need to drop subframe in the rear to get the sway in, good times.

      Springs. TME or Eibach with the 4c.
      Last edited by Rodtheviking; 01-16-2020 at 12:23 PM.

    21. #19
      I like the price of the Snabb DP! Also, yes did not consider the stiffness of the sway bars compared to the conditions of the roads here, they aren't super terrible but not great either.

      I also currently have the 18in wheels on mine, and although they definitely look great, I kinda wish I had the 17's. From personal experience, I always prefer whatever the smaller wheel option is on any car, truck, SUV to get more tire options, better ride, less chance of sidewall issues with potholes, etc...

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