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KKlepack - 1999 RED-V70R

20K views 185 replies 18 participants last post by  UT OLI 
#1 · (Edited)
I just picked up 1999 V70R in Chicago.

Red 1999 V70R, 212k miles.

Carfax shows that car was originally sold in IL and no service history until 06/2010 and 124K. After that was serviced by Howard Orloff Imports, Inc. in Chicago until 08/2013, 147K and was sold to 2nd owner. There is a gap until 06/2016 150K some service was done and next on 11/2019 and 212K by 3rd owner, I assume to reprogram ETM.

The good: New ETM from XeMODeX (previous owner bought it from IPD 10/2019 and had a dealer reprogram it), interior is on decent shape no rips, no rust and tires and rims are OK, looks like it has a new Volvo battery.

Not so bad, I guess:
Paint looks good but some parts were repainted like rear bumper (paint is peeling off in couple areas) and perhaps rear door

The bad: Not sure yet as car starts and dies (rough idle), but runs fine above 2500 RPM,
I could not test drive it so no idea on suspension and AWD no spare tire, TB was done at 120K in 2009, also I see a very small leak under the engine and I suspect it could rear main seal. Maybe not.

Third owner (bought it in 09/2019 and never transferred the title) so I'm the fourth owner.

Plans:

Stage "0"
PCV - completed
Timing and Serpentine Belts - completed
Water pump - completed
and on and on -

Work completed:
-PCV all blue box parts - 212k
-Serpentine Belt - 212k
-Parking brake shoes and cables all blue box parts - 212k
-Power-steering reservoir newer version upgrade -212k
-Spark plugs 212k
-Vacuum lines 212k
-Oil change with new magnetic plug 212k
-New air and oil filter - 212k
-Cabin filter -212k
-Thermostat blue box -212k
-Engine coolant temp sensor blue box -212k
-New fuel pump blue box -212k
-M56 swap out of 1997 or 1998 P80 -212k
-850R clutch and pressure plate
-Front O2 sensor -212k
-All engine mounts - 212k
-PS rack out of 04 C70 - 212k
-RMS -212k
-Upper and lower radiator hoses -212k
-TB, WP and pulley's - 213k

Looking to get some advice with this project. I've owned few Volvos in the past and my DD is 2016 XC60, so not new to Volvo's and not afraid to tackle a project at my own garage.
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#6 ·
@silent-circuit and @Chicago_Wagon - Thank you

@ScottishBrick - I had reach out to XeMODeX and they pointed me in te same direction https://xemodex.com/us/knowledgebas...9-2004-volvo-c701999-2000-volvo-s70-v70-xc70/, but I think I may replace vacuum lines first and if there is no improvement in idle then it is my next step.

To start with:
Ordered red silicon vacuum lines from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/liquid-air-adapter/silicone-boost-vacuum-hose-p-593.html
Order PCV Kit , filters, gaskets, etc, from FCP . Hope all this will arrive before the weekend.
 
#7 ·
These cars have minimal vacuum lines. TCV and brake booster circuit/pcv. A bad hose will cause fuel trim issues but not a failure to idle. Try unplugging the etm and seeing if anything changes. Also get yourself a ViDA/DiCE setup its as useful as a 10mm with working on these cars


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#12 ·
Nice score. Red V70Rs are crazy rare.

Once you figure out what is wrong, I would just do an engine out service, especially since you need a RMS. But even if you didn't you would save time since it sounds like you need to refresh everything. Makes like so much easier having it out. Seals are cheap once you're that far in so I'd just do them all. You'll also want to update the oil pickup and refresh the seals, so you don't spin a bearing going around a corner.

Also your ETM doesn't need to be programmed. That is a myth largely perpetuated by uninformed people who oppose technological advancement.
 
#13 ·
Nice score. Red V70Rs are crazy rare.

Once you figure out what is wrong, I would just do an engine out service, especially since you need a RMS. But even if you didn't you would save time since it sounds like you need to refresh everything. Makes like so much easier having it out. Seals are cheap once you're that far in so I'd just do them all. You'll also want to update the oil pickup and refresh the seals, so you don't spin a bearing going around a corner.

Also your ETM doesn't need to be programmed. That is a myth largely perpetuated by uninformed people who oppose technological advancement.
@JaredR Thanks, I'm still sorting things out as weather permits (getting cold in Chicago). I like your idea on removing engine but at the moment, I have limited space in my garage. At this moment I'm not 100% sure on RMS. I order PCV kit as a precaution as I can not validate "Glove test" since engine dies on idle and at the same time I will check ETM ground.

Can you elaborate little more on where I can get more info on "update the oil pickup and refresh the seals, so you don't spin a bearing going around a corner".
 
#17 ·
@Zoinks, Thanks for the info , my priority is to get the engine running smooth and i will definitely revisit this idea,

So, I was at the local junkyard and was able to locate Relay Cooling Fan2 middle plug now it is time to solder wires together and plug it in. Yesterday, I did dry compression test on cold engine (Chicago temps 30F} and I believe i did it correctly (removed all spark plugs, removed Fuel Replay, pedal to the metal and for about 7 cranks) and reading was :
C1-95
C2-95
C3-95
C4-90
C5-100

Is doing cold engine compression correct way or should I try to worm up the engine and try again?
I'm still chasing rough idle and stalling issue, Will connect VIDA today to get some codes.
 
#21 ·
Question , what is the best way to reset all codes and start with clean slate? Disconnect battery for 15min, and turn the key to position II to drain power?

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Also need to clear codes with VIDA to get rid of old codes. Probably a lot of them unless it's been serviced at Volvo.

Those compression numbers are not good. I checked the compression in my T-5R a couple years ago at about 290k (mostly curiosity but it has always sounded like one was a little low) and I was at 150, 170, 170, 165, 165.
 
#22 ·
Little update.
It is cold in Chicago and I had no time to redo the compression test, but I was able to hookup Vida.

For hack of it, I did start the car multiple times before I connected the Vida and car ran fine for about 10-15 mins , 880RPM, nice idle and I was able to do the "glove test" and it passed (glove was being sucked in) so PCV seems like it is not clogged but I will replace it with the one with FCP PCV kit just to make sure, or should I clean it?

Then when engine wormed up rough idle reappeared and car was stalling . Vida showed coolant temperature about 87F and seemed like level of coolant have raised in coolant tank.Coolant level was at cold engine between min and max and after car started idleing rough coolant level was above the max level, but temp on dash was shown normal level.

When I scanned for codes I only got two codes:
ECM-6110 Engine cooling fan (FC) low-speed - Signal missing
ECM-6120 Engine cooling fan (FC) high-speed - Signal missing

That make sense since. I have a broken connector (found one in junkyard off of 850 and need to solder the wires and reconnect it).

Any suggestions?
 
#23 ·
The fcp kit has waaaay too much stuff you don’t need.

However it’s also missing an important updated banjo bolt that you most certainly do need!

31325709 is the 4th revision of the intake manifold PCV banjo bolt and what it does is add a check valve that closes under boost so you don’t pressurize the crank case. Also need 2x 11994 washers when you replace it. Easiest way to swap it is to drop the alternator and leave the intake manifold on.


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#25 ·
The fcp kit has waaaay too much stuff you don't need.

However it's also missing an important updated banjo bolt that you most certainly do need!

31325709 is the 4th revision of the intake manifold PCV banjo bolt and what it does is add a check valve that closes under boost so you don't pressurize the crank case. Also need 2x 11994 washers when you replace it. Easiest way to swap it is to drop the alternator and leave the intake manifold on.

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Question, What is the difference between Volvo Banjo Bolt - Genuine Volvo 973950 vs. 31325709. Being cheap I got 973950.
Also the PCV kit I got was https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-pcv-breather-system-kit-c70-s70-v70-s60-turbo-v70t100. Should I return some of the parts?
 
#33 · (Edited)
Update: I fired up the car tonight and seems like coolant is in the oil. Take a look at the photo of the oil fill cap. Auto part
Auto part Engine Suspension Suspension part Fuel line
.
Am I correct? Or is it some kind of condensation since car ran for few minutes in cold weather. Also seems like coolant level raised when engine got worm. When engine was cold the level was between MIN and MAX. When I unscrew cap from coolant reservoir tank there was a pressure buildup. Is it worth spending my time on it or find an another engine? Or am I F##k@d? Please help.
 
#34 · (Edited)
I mean you bought a non-running 212K mile 20 year old car, I wouldn't say you're ****ed, hopefully you went into it assuming it would be a money pit from the start!

Hard to say just based on the cap, could be condensation, maybe not. Best thing to do is to drain the oil and see how it looks. If it comes out like milk well, there's your answer.

You should also check compression warm or even better do a leakdown test on all cylinders.
 
#35 ·
Yep, drain the oil. Head gasket might be shot, If you need to do an engine swap its not as hard as it might seem. I did mine on the S70, it was my first time ever and wasn't too difficult.
 
#36 ·
It’s auto so you can leave the trans and AG in the car. Or yank with the driveline and engine bolted together it will all fit out the top.

Any 01+ t5 engine is the way to go, 03+ gets some inprovements. P1 single piece exhaust manifold gasket. Japanifold or R manifold. Probably needs an 18t CHRA while it’s out. Never easier to do pcv banjo bolt, control arms and heater core junction. If you do all the work yourself and go full bluebox on all parts you’re looking at about $1500 all in.


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#38 ·
You could send an oil sample off for analysis to be totally sure if the oil isn't milky, but a leak down test is a really good idea. If you have an air compressor you should be able to rent one from an auto parts store. Or there are plenty of enthusiasts down there who I'm sure could lend a hand/tools.

It's auto so you can leave the trans and AG in the car. Or yank with the driveline and engine bolted together it will all fit out the top.

Any 01+ t5 engine is the way to go, 03+ gets some inprovements. P1 single piece exhaust manifold gasket. Japanifold or R manifold. Probably needs an 18t CHRA while it's out. Never easier to do pcv banjo bolt, control arms and heater core junction. If you do all the work yourself and go full bluebox on all parts you're looking at about $1500 all in.
Will is absolutely right in terms of refresh cost. I spent about that (maybe a little less but I haven't done suspension stuff yet) on my 850 swap. The only thing I have to add is to not remove only the engine out of the top. Especially if it's your first experience pulling an engine I'd either remove engine & trans out the top or drop the subframe (dropping the subframe would be my recommendation). I bent a flexplate and I would have had to pull the engine again if I didn't realize it when I did.
 
#39 ·
Today, I removed cleaned turbo intake hoses and reinstalled them back. They were dirty outside and there was little oil inside. l took out the Turbo Hose with PTC nipple and it was clean as I'm planing to do PCV repair, but I did glove test again and it passed, so I may hold off until I get the car running smooth.

Someone suggested to replace ECT. ECT and thermostat has been replaced and no luck same symptoms. Re-scanned for codes and again no codes.

Did XeMODeX ETM test by their flow chart troubleshooting and all passed. Do not think there is the ETM problem, perhaps MAF could be the issue, but again no codes?

Also, I think that there was a condensation on the oil cap as to day car ran for 15 minutes fine and oil cap was clean.

What else can I try?
 
#40 ·
I let it run for 10 minutes until stalled and cap was clean, so it is defiantly condensation. Oil cap and dipstick are clean no milky stuff on it. By the way here in Chicago we had a nice weather in last few days.
Tested coils last night I did unplug coils one at the time when car was running and when I did that engine was performing worst so seems like coils are good. I was told that PO replaced the spark plugs and coils 10k miles ago.

Looked under the car and fuel filter looks like it was replaced.

One observation. after car wormed the temp gauge arrow stayed in the middle 3 o'clock position on the dashboard and the coolant almost reached to the top of the coolant tank. Before replacing thermostat I drained 2 qts of coolant and when I re added the level stays above the MAX all the time. Is it normal ?
Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Auto part Automotive exterior


Also when car was choking/puffing after worm up is saw smoke coming out of dipstick, but glove test passed. PCV?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XgrP7TsZghdPDh5b7
 
#41 ·
Run Vida for fault codes again, see what comes up, and then run it again. I've had fault codes not show up on initial diagnostic check and then surface with another scan. I bet your frustrated but don't give up. If all else fails,,,, there has to be a decent indy shop in Chi-town that you can pay to diagnose and you fix yourself. There is supposedly a great place in Schaumburg "Swedish Car Specialists" But i know that might not be doable. You could always call them, explain your symptoms and ask to pay them for their phone diagnostic time. All they can say is no.
 
#44 ·
Will rescan today or tomorrow and report back. Swedish Car Specialists are located about 17 miles from my house, but I have not registered the car yet so technically I should not drive it (tow will be $150) so mind as well register it.
 
#42 ·
Are you saying the coolant level was changing while it was running?
 
#43 ·
Well, before I drained 2 qrts or so of coolant to change the thermostat and ECT, level was at MAX after refill and engine warmup about 10 min the coolant almost spilled out of the tank. So, seems like there is no coolant circulation?
 
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