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KKlepack - 1999 RED-V70R

20K views 185 replies 18 participants last post by  UT OLI 
#1 · (Edited)
I just picked up 1999 V70R in Chicago.

Red 1999 V70R, 212k miles.

Carfax shows that car was originally sold in IL and no service history until 06/2010 and 124K. After that was serviced by Howard Orloff Imports, Inc. in Chicago until 08/2013, 147K and was sold to 2nd owner. There is a gap until 06/2016 150K some service was done and next on 11/2019 and 212K by 3rd owner, I assume to reprogram ETM.

The good: New ETM from XeMODeX (previous owner bought it from IPD 10/2019 and had a dealer reprogram it), interior is on decent shape no rips, no rust and tires and rims are OK, looks like it has a new Volvo battery.

Not so bad, I guess:
Paint looks good but some parts were repainted like rear bumper (paint is peeling off in couple areas) and perhaps rear door

The bad: Not sure yet as car starts and dies (rough idle), but runs fine above 2500 RPM,
I could not test drive it so no idea on suspension and AWD no spare tire, TB was done at 120K in 2009, also I see a very small leak under the engine and I suspect it could rear main seal. Maybe not.

Third owner (bought it in 09/2019 and never transferred the title) so I'm the fourth owner.

Plans:

Stage "0"
PCV - completed
Timing and Serpentine Belts - completed
Water pump - completed
and on and on -

Work completed:
-PCV all blue box parts - 212k
-Serpentine Belt - 212k
-Parking brake shoes and cables all blue box parts - 212k
-Power-steering reservoir newer version upgrade -212k
-Spark plugs 212k
-Vacuum lines 212k
-Oil change with new magnetic plug 212k
-New air and oil filter - 212k
-Cabin filter -212k
-Thermostat blue box -212k
-Engine coolant temp sensor blue box -212k
-New fuel pump blue box -212k
-M56 swap out of 1997 or 1998 P80 -212k
-850R clutch and pressure plate
-Front O2 sensor -212k
-All engine mounts - 212k
-PS rack out of 04 C70 - 212k
-RMS -212k
-Upper and lower radiator hoses -212k
-TB, WP and pulley's - 213k

Looking to get some advice with this project. I've owned few Volvos in the past and my DD is 2016 XC60, so not new to Volvo's and not afraid to tackle a project at my own garage.
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#51 ·
Not sure how you would do pcv from under the car unless you are cleaning the block passages?
 
#53 ·
Yes you can remove the oil pan from underneath. Use a cardboard box and draw a rough sketch of the oil pan. Remove a corner bolt and push it into the box and label it #1 and its approx location say "drivers side front" Then continue to remove the remaining bolts in order around the pan and push them into your box. There are a lot of different lengths to these bolts and getting them mixed up would be a nightmare. Not sure on the bolt sizes for the new pick up tube but you can call FCP. And don't forget to order the aenerbolic (cant remember how to spell it) purple pan sealant for when reinstalling. But chase down those Vac leaks first. Google homemade smoke testers.
 
#54 ·
anaerobic. it's pink.

I've never had a problem keeping the pan bolts straight just throwing them in a box or whatever. Really long ones all go on the port side, typicals in the middle, anything else weird on the starboard side.

Pickup seals are definitely worth doing. Clean the PCV block passage while you're in there. Also update the oil pickup tube.
 
#55 ·
Quick hijack here,,,, hey Jared when you gonna start a new thread for your Mom's new S70 ? just caught it at the bottom of your sig. Or have Mom start her own thread.
 
#58 · (Edited)
Little update: Car runs the same as before no improvement after changing below components and I still do not get any codes with VIDA.

I did compression test one more time and results are a lot better. Believe prevues gage was bad.
C1-155
C2-160
C3-160
C4-160
C5-160

New spark plugs NGK Spark Plug - NGK 6962
I did new PCV job with new blue box parts.
Replaced serpentine belt and idler.
Also replaced all vacuum lines with silicone ones and did cigar smoke test. I saw little smoke coming out of PTC nipple on the intake tube to the turbo. Also when I removed oil filler cap and dipstick smoke came out of there as well.
I did not find any other leaks anywhere else, but I hear hissing noise around by intake manifold by cylinder one where banjo bolt is and PCV (no coolant leaks)

Still have to do fuel pressure test. Went to rent fuel tester from AutoZone and it did not have right connectors.

Running out of ideas. I'm ready to take it to http://www.swedishcarspecialists.com/ and have them look at it.
 
#59 ·
Im really suprised VIDA isnt telling you something. Are you saying that after running diagnostics every module in VIDA is displayed in green (meaning no faults found) ?
 
#60 ·
That is correct. I even unplug few connectors like MAF sensor or Injector wire just to make sure vida is working and I get those errors. After the codes erase all i do scan and no codes. I will try to rent ODBII reader from auto parts and check if I get same results.
 
#63 ·
Just read this thread toe to heel. Stop throwing money at the thing. Get it idling first. Perhaps the crank position sensor or cam position sensor, prob the former, is near end of life. You’ll need to troubleshoot those circuits against the spec. Don’t have books in front of me. Yes they could be operationally sound, not parking a code.
 
#66 ·
Hang in there and keep going, I know its frustrating but you will enjoy it even more once you get it sorted because perseverance gratification trumps easy fixes in the long run. And you will have a rare sought after wagon. Keep us updated, we want to see this R back on the road.
 
#71 ·
Not in the pump itself. Some people have had problems with loosing pressure (myself included) that makes for longer crank times on start up due to pressure bleed off. You can install a aftermarket check valve by the fuel filter. Google Volvo fuel check valve. I think it was JRL who did a write up on this. However i don't think that would be related to car dying after a few minutes of running.
 
#74 ·
I know, I know you guys told me. "Fix idle issue before dumping money in it".

But, I can not help myself and during the "Shelter in Place" in IL do not want to take it to shop, so I was poking around and found that ebrake cable on driver side was cut and on passenger side it is pinched under sub frame so I'm planing to get both replaced. Also, rear brake line are cracked (protective rubber) but not leaking.

So, I took back wheels off and removed rusty rotors and broke the brake shoe clip on one side. There are two per side

Black White Brown Line Monochrome


I have a dilemma removing the screw as it is rusted. Blasted with PB like 5 times in past 2 days and no luck so far. Any suggestions?
 
#80 ·
So, I found someones suggestion to :
a. disconnect battery
b. fully charge it
c. connect it back
d. put the key in ON position for 10 mins, but do not start the car

After doing so, car started fine with perfect idle for 30 min or so, then I took it for a short 1 mile drive around the area (as car has not been registered so did not want to take it for longer ride) and car ran fine.

Today, I went to start the can and it is back to rough Idle and staling. WTF!!!! I wonder if something needs to be reprogrammed/software update?

I guess, I'm giving up for now. Next step is to get it registered (have to wait for State to open the registration facilities) and take it to Volvo shop around me.
 
#81 ·
Hey kklepack
You've got a project on your hands for sure.
I noticed that you said it hasn't been registered - and back on first post you said "Third owner (bought it in 09/2019 and never transferred the title) so I’m the fourth owner."
DO YOU HAVE A GOOD TITLE FOR THIS CAR? I hope you're not spending money on someone else's car....
 
#82 ·
Hey kklepack
You've got a project on your hands for sure.
I noticed that you said it hasn't been registered - and back on first post you said "Third owner (bought it in 09/2019 and never transferred the title) so I'm the fourth owner."
DO YOU HAVE A GOOD TITLE FOR THIS CAR? I hope you're not spending money on someone else's car....
Yes, I do. I transferred the title under my name.
 
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