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KKlepack - 1999 RED-V70R

20K views 185 replies 18 participants last post by  UT OLI 
#1 · (Edited)
I just picked up 1999 V70R in Chicago.

Red 1999 V70R, 212k miles.

Carfax shows that car was originally sold in IL and no service history until 06/2010 and 124K. After that was serviced by Howard Orloff Imports, Inc. in Chicago until 08/2013, 147K and was sold to 2nd owner. There is a gap until 06/2016 150K some service was done and next on 11/2019 and 212K by 3rd owner, I assume to reprogram ETM.

The good: New ETM from XeMODeX (previous owner bought it from IPD 10/2019 and had a dealer reprogram it), interior is on decent shape no rips, no rust and tires and rims are OK, looks like it has a new Volvo battery.

Not so bad, I guess:
Paint looks good but some parts were repainted like rear bumper (paint is peeling off in couple areas) and perhaps rear door

The bad: Not sure yet as car starts and dies (rough idle), but runs fine above 2500 RPM,
I could not test drive it so no idea on suspension and AWD no spare tire, TB was done at 120K in 2009, also I see a very small leak under the engine and I suspect it could rear main seal. Maybe not.

Third owner (bought it in 09/2019 and never transferred the title) so I'm the fourth owner.

Plans:

Stage "0"
PCV - completed
Timing and Serpentine Belts - completed
Water pump - completed
and on and on -

Work completed:
-PCV all blue box parts - 212k
-Serpentine Belt - 212k
-Parking brake shoes and cables all blue box parts - 212k
-Power-steering reservoir newer version upgrade -212k
-Spark plugs 212k
-Vacuum lines 212k
-Oil change with new magnetic plug 212k
-New air and oil filter - 212k
-Cabin filter -212k
-Thermostat blue box -212k
-Engine coolant temp sensor blue box -212k
-New fuel pump blue box -212k
-M56 swap out of 1997 or 1998 P80 -212k
-850R clutch and pressure plate
-Front O2 sensor -212k
-All engine mounts - 212k
-PS rack out of 04 C70 - 212k
-RMS -212k
-Upper and lower radiator hoses -212k
-TB, WP and pulley's - 213k

Looking to get some advice with this project. I've owned few Volvos in the past and my DD is 2016 XC60, so not new to Volvo's and not afraid to tackle a project at my own garage.
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#104 ·
Little Update.

Couple weeks ago RobertDIY visited Chicago and he stopped by my place and he suspects the the issues i'm having are related to failing fuel pump. He will be in town in beginning of July and we will do partial sub-frame drop to replace the pump.

Different topping - manual swap
I'm may be able to get cheap 1995 850GLT with manual transition. Is it worth to proceed ? What are the challenges will I be facing ? Are all the parts interchangeable ? Is it even worth it?
 
#107 ·
Very cool that Robert will be helping you out. You can also cut a hole to gain access and replace the pump without dropping the subframe Google the procedure. Regarding the manual swap, i would say it would be worth it, Jared will probably chime in on the "doability" and compatibility of parts from an 850.
 
#105 ·
Can someone explain Robert DIY to me? I understand he has a YouTube channel, but does he just drive around the country helping people fix cars like some sort of Volvo Santa Claus? Or is he a paid professional mechanic that you specifically hire to show up at your house like a mobile mechanic?
 
#106 ·
Yes Robert DIY is like a Volvo Santa Claus. Drives around in his sled and helps people with their Volvo issues. But instead of cookies like Santa, Robert accepts cash. This is his life now and the way he supports himself. With working on people's cars(mostly Volvos) and thru his YouTube channel. He has helped countless of people thru both ways.
 
#109 ·
Yes! don't cut a hole in the floor pan!
I thought we talked about this fuel pump location in the 98-00 V70r a few times on here.
98 was like the year you could get away with unscrewing a cover plate on the inside of the wagon under the rear seats and that got you to the fuel pump.
But 99 and 00, you for sure had to drop the rear sub frame and fuel tank..also that 00 have the two access areas. One was the fuel pump and the other when was called some I can't think of it right now ( and I will need to replace that part on my 00 soon) but that was a pump too, that pumped the fuel over that highest part of the saddle design fuel tank to get the fuel in the fuel pump area.

I Need to get on the computer and look at the tank design break down for those years.
 
#110 ·
Guys, Thanks for the feedback, but I'm give up on manual swap at this time as it is too big of a challenge and luck of space to work on.

For the fuel pump I will take the hard road and will not cut a hole in the bottom of your car. Wish me luck. :)
 
#111 ·
@JaredR - The 850 I could get for $200, but I due too lack of space I contacted RobertDIY and he will be picking up.

@Jaydiesel and @JaredR- No cutting a hole in the bottom of your car :nono:

@UT OLI - Since I've hooked up Robert with cheap 850 perhaps I can get a discount on his services.
 
#112 ·
@JaredR - The 850 I could get for $200, but I due too lack of space I contacted RobertDIY and he will be picking up.

@Jaydiesel and @JaredR- No cutting a hole in the bottom of your car :nono:

@UT OLI - Since I've hooked up Robert with cheap 850 perhaps I can get a discount on his services.
Yeah, i probably should of put a disclaimer stating cutting a hole was not recommended, but an option. Hopefully you and Robert will get her going and post a Video on his channel or a link here. I like that you haven't given up like the previous owner did.
 
#113 ·
Question.
Since, I'll be doing fuel pump replacement and I'm going to be dropping just the front of the tank down and partial drop of rear sub-frame, remove the back of the prop shaft and the viscous unit.
Where is the best area to place the jack stands in the read of the car ?
I will be using pair of ESCO 10498 Jack Stands.
 
#114 ·
I put them under the pinch seam where the arrows are on the plastic rocker panels. Be careful to not damage the panel. You don't need to completely remove the viscous unit just pull the bolt to the floorpan.
 
#118 ·
So yesterday Robert stopped by and we have finish replacing blue box fuel pump by partial sub-frame drop and car is still has same symptoms.
Replacing fuel pump did not HELP. Could it be ETM or ECM issue because when I disconnect negative cable from battery for 10-15 min and reconnect it back car start fine and runs great for 15-30 min and then dies. We connected the VIDA and again no codes. We are hitting the wall here.
 
#119 ·
I don't think its ETM. Do you have a Junk Yard you could snag a ECU from a 99 or 00 ? I remember one in Bensenville but that was 20 years ago. Or maybe someone here has a spare they could lend you.
 
#124 ·
You sure gave it a hell of a try to do it yourself. No shame in handing it over to a fresh set of eyes and troubleshooting minds. Im sure its not the financial route you wanted to take, but when this get figured out, im sure a lot of people here will benefit from the solution. Good Luck !!
 
#128 ·
did you guys do a sweep test on the etm
 
#130 ·
I have experienced a similar issue with intermittent stalling.

I replaced fuel pump and fuel pump relay with no solution.

Figured out that for whatever reason, if I created a crossover at the relay to make it constant on, the problem went away.

I can get additional details later once I chat with my mechanic friend that helped with the solution.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
#131 · (Edited)
UPDATE:
Car is back and running fine and now I can enjoy it. Swedish Car Specialists shop replaced oxygen sensor (running rich), ECT sensor (as a precaution) and did Xemodex QMSF-1025 TECHNICAL BULLETIN – ETM Power Supply bypass (as a precaution)
Did 30 miles trip on highway at speed of 60-80 mph with out any issues. Trans fluid looks brown so time to do drain and fill on transmission with Valvoline Dex III, and rear diff fluid change.
There is a clunk coming from front on bumps perhaps sway bar links needs to be replaced. ANY RECOMMENDATIONS? Meyle HD or Lemforder or anything else?
 
#132 ·
I like Lemforder
 
#133 ·
Awesome news !! Seems they took a while to get on your car, must be busy. How would you rate your experience with them ? Its always good to rate the Indy's for other members that might live in the area.

If the front end doesn't wander, i would say its your end links, or strut mounts. Ends links are easy to check. IIRC on the P80 links you have to put a open end on the backside of the stabilizer bar to remove the link nut. Otherwise the ball joint will just spin. Just pull the boot back a little and you will see. I cant remember from your previous posts, is your AWD functional ?
 
#134 ·
IIRC on the P80 links you have to put a open end on the backside of the stabilizer bar to remove the link nut. Otherwise the ball joint will just spin. Just pull the boot back a little and you will see.
Lemforder has a T30 on it instead.
 
#143 ·
So today while backing it to the garage I LOST reverse WTF, Car drives fine forward no issues. When I select R car does not move and I hear wine, I will do Vida scan tomorrow for codes. Should I do grain and fill ( I did that 300 miles ago). How about Lucas trans fix? Anything I can check or look for another trans?
 
#144 ·
Update.
I'm scrapping the idea of auto trans replacement and going with M56H swap. I know no more AWD and I'm fine with that. Auto trans 127k miles replacement I've picked up it is for sale if someone is interested .
Got manual swap from @Zoinks (thanks mate). Picked up FWD steering rack from 04 C70 in local JY. Started removing prop shaft, angle gear. More to come. Chicago weather is not helping, Wish me luck.
 
#145 ·
Good move only going through this once. Grab a FWD front subframe and delta link while you're at it. Pro tip: split the engine wiring harness at the ECU box so you can modify it out of the car.
 
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