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    1. #1
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Oil or PS Leak? Location?

      I was doing some work to change the WP, Decoupler, Acc. tensioner/idler and belt, and noticed this large oily mess. Also, the top of the power steering pressure hose (where the crimp is) is wet. I attached a photo of the hose and the area from the leak.

      What would be a possible cause of this? Has anyone seen a similar pattern leak? It's a family members car and they said a Volvo diagnosed it as needing to replace both timing chain cover gaskets. Could this all be from the bad hose crimp?

      PS was 1/2 full upon inspection with no other leaks seen, and oil level was fine.

      It's probably been leaking for at least 40k miles.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      Looks like a 3.2 from the pics and your XC90 is not listed in your signature. If so, then look up the leaky vacuum pump. It's the silvery roundish metal thing in the upper middle of your second pic. That looks like engine oil.

      The o-ring is a replacement item listed in the About the XC90 3.2 thread. FCP has a kit.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

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    4. #3
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      It is an XC90 3.2. The vacuum pump is dry. I did check that area as I've read that's a common leak location.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      That line is just seeping a little, not enough to make that mess. Even if the vacuum pump had been leaking and previously repaired without the residual oil being cleaned up, I've never seen oil all over the timing cover from a vacuum pump leak. You probably need to pull the timing covers and reseal them.

    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      That line is just seeping a little, not enough to make that mess. Even if the vacuum pump had been leaking and previously repaired without the residual oil being cleaned up, I've never seen oil all over the timing cover from a vacuum pump leak. You probably need to pull the timing covers and reseal them.
      Would you recommend replacing both gaskets on the cover? Inner and outer? I guess now would be the time since it's already all apart, right?
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      Yeah now would be the time. The outer cover is easier than the inner. For the inner, you have to remove the timing chain and cam pulleys, which will need a special tool to hold. Or clean it all up, put it together and try to see specifically where it is coming from.

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      How many miles on the 3.2? What year?

      I would clean and re-inspect to trace the oil to the source. It could still be the vacuum pump and the moving serpentine belt/pulleys threw the oil all over. I wouldn't take the timing cover off unless you have done that before on another car or familiar with sealing gaskets, keeping bolts in the right order, and have a 3/8" torque wrench. It could also be a valve cover gasket, leaky seal from REED drive, sensor o-ring, leaky PCV, etc.

      Or it could be an old leak that was already taken care of if the vehicle was bought used. What I don't see is dripping oil like when I see a 2.5t blow its cam seals. Do you know the history of the maintenance of the vehicle?

      Here are some videos for your reference of what it takes to take apart the covers and valve cover:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcRkD1lJxGQ
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTAk_Y_3jfQ
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ua9vQaNYHg
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
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    10. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      How many miles on the 3.2? What year?

      I would clean and re-inspect to trace the oil to the source. It could still be the vacuum pump and the moving serpentine belt/pulleys threw the oil all over. I wouldn't take the timing cover off unless you have done that before on another car or familiar with sealing gaskets, keeping bolts in the right order, and have a 3/8" torque wrench. It could also be a valve cover gasket, leaky seal from REED drive, sensor o-ring, leaky PCV, etc.

      Or it could be an old leak that was already taken care of if the vehicle was bought used. What I don't see is dripping oil like when I see a 2.5t blow its cam seals. Do you know the history of the maintenance of the vehicle?

      Here are some videos for your reference of what it takes to take apart the covers and valve cover:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcRkD1lJxGQ
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTAk_Y_3jfQ
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ua9vQaNYHg
      Thanks for the videos! That makes it seem pretty straightforward.

      2007 with 150k miles.

      I talked to the family member that owns it more. They have owned it since original. It developed a leak around 110k. They took it to the dealer, dealer replaced vacuum pump seal. Went back to the dealer, and the dealer recommended replacing both timing gaskets. I replaced the vacuum pump seal for them because they wanted to try that again. And that is where we currently are. The vacuum pump seems dry. It is wet on the timing cover and below the PS pump. So, I don't think it is old.

      The PCV was done around 110k, the READ assembly seems dry, and there is no grinding noise from the bearing. The alternator side of the READ assembly is dry. Most of the oil is on the outer timing cover bolts or housing. It has dripped all over the transmission and down to the pan. Owner states they lose about a quart of oil every 3-4k miles.

      They want to get it done, so that's why I didn't mind the idea of doing the gaskets. It doesn't seem worth cleaning it up and putting it back together to troubleshoot the leak more. Everything is already off, and all that labor would have to be done again. If anything, I'd do the outer gasket, and clean it up. I have a friend that had the special tool kit from Volvo.

      Is that logic of mine flawed? That seems to be the most sense. It's interesting the top of the case is wet and oily. That makes me think gaskets, but I didn't find anything about that being a common leaking point.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Yeah now would be the time. The outer cover is easier than the inner. For the inner, you have to remove the timing chain and cam pulleys, which will need a special tool to hold. Or clean it all up, put it together and try to see specifically where it is coming from.
      I thought you still need special tools for the outer cover to reposition it back on correctly. Or is there a trick where you don't need the two pieces?
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Yeah now would be the time. The outer cover is easier than the inner. For the inner, you have to remove the timing chain and cam pulleys, which will need a special tool to hold. Or clean it all up, put it together and try to see specifically where it is coming from.
      I thought you still need special tools for the outer cover to reposition it back on correctly. Or is there a trick where you don't need the two pieces?
      There are guides you install in the vacuum pump hole and READ hole. Not sure how necessary they are if you're careful.

      There's also a tool to remove the READ clutch that I forgot about. Not sure if those videos cover it.

      To be honest, I've never seen a timing cover leak that bad. Definitely not common. I've also never seen that much oil on the cover from a vacuum pump leak, and I've probably resealed hundreds.

      Your logic makes total sense. That's what I would do. Just don't know how long you can have the car down and if you feel like the additional work at this time. If you don't need the car, now is the time to reseal the timing cover.

    13. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      There are guides you install in the vacuum pump hole and READ hole. Not sure how necessary they are if you're careful.

      There's also a tool to remove the READ clutch that I forgot about. Not sure if those videos cover it.

      To be honest, I've never seen a timing cover leak that bad. Definitely not common. I've also never seen that much oil on the cover from a vacuum pump leak, and I've probably resealed hundreds.

      Your logic makes total sense. That's what I would do. Just don't know how long you can have the car down and if you feel like the additional work at this time. If you don't need the car, now is the time to reseal the timing cover.
      The position tools are in the kit I have, so that's fine.

      Are you talking about the READ clutch tool being the decoupler pulley tool? That 33 tooth end that holds the clutch, and a T50 torx to remove the center bolt? I also have the special lip seal tool since it appears that the seal is reversed and will leak it just normally pressed on.

      I haven't come across anything that resembles this bad of a leak. That's why I found it odd. It's had regular changes, and it's also leaking from the inner cover gasket towards the top of the engine. It's all over.

      They are on vacation for a couple weeks, so time is no issue. I just didn't want to dive into something without talking it out or being haphazardly about it. The gaskets are short money compared to taking it all apart again and them being without a car for that time.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      It sounds like good logic, you have the time, and you have already decided to move forward. Take pics and post here!

      I wish I could see the serpentine belt before the vacuum pump was sealed at 110k miles because the oil made it all the way to the top of the transmission. Any splatter on the hood pad?
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
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      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
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    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      It sounds like good logic, you have the time, and you have already decided to move forward. Take pics and post here!

      I wish I could see the serpentine belt before the vacuum pump was sealed at 110k miles because the oil made it all the way to the top of the transmission. Any splatter on the hood pad?
      I'll do a write-up depending on the outcome lol I always forget to take photos because my hands are covered in oil.

      That's a good question. I'll post back when I look at the hood insulator.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      There is oil on the top insulator.

      Also, I took some more pictures. I haven't seen it in a couple thousand miles, but now that I have it, I noticed it actually is wet on the alternator side of the intermediate shaft. It leaks all the way down to the bottom of the transmission. (I did clean the other side up a bit since the first photo, as you can see.)

      Now I'm wondering about the READ. It looks very wet on the auxiliary side and wet on the alternator side...

      Thoughts? Advice how to proceed?
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      Do as planned and change the shaft seal for the READ on both sides too, including the alternator side. A little more work, but like you said, while you are there and the vehicle is already down. Once you change those gaskets and seals, the hope is you won't have to go that deep again. Anything residual could be sensor o-ring or might have been residual from the vacuum pump.

      Once everything is clean, drive and observe. That's the issue with old oil leaks, it can be difficult to find the source with all the gunk. If you want to, buy a dye kit for the oil. When you run it for a little time, use a blacklight or UV light, depending on the kit, and see if you can source a leak. If nothing lights up, then you are done with that leak.

      Just a thought, did you remove the ignition coils to see if there is any oil in the spark plug holes, which could indicate valve cover gaskets?
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

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      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
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      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

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      If you're going that deep, you might consider removing the cam cover, cleaning it up and resealing it as well. The anaerobic sealer fails eventually and causes oil to leak internally, getting into the PCV system and burning.

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      I haven't pulled any spark plugs to see, I can do that after. Also, I'll see about the valve cover, makes sense, but I'm not sure.

      Here it is stripped down. I have to remove the remainder of the inner gasket. It's cold here this week, and it's not easily removable. Any tips?



      Anyway, I got it all off after being a little busy this week. I'll save pictures and info for a write-up, but I'm wondering if the gasket circled in blue should be replaced to?



      I'm trying to order all the o-rings and gaskets to begin reassembly.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      I replace that while I'm in there. No sense taking a chance on reusing it.

      As for the remaining parts of the inner gasket, a razor blade should work well.

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      If it were me, yes change that gasket and any o-rings, seals, gaskets you can see. If you use a razor, make sure not to scratch or mar the aluminum surface. When I remove valve covers or timing covers in any vehicle, I like to change the plastic chain guides while I am there. I sometimes do the chain tensioner too, depending on the engine.

      I haven't researched this, but is that dirty inner channel running from the rear upper to the front intake manifold the PCV return? If so, clean it out.

      I'm not due for a serpentine belt for another 50k miles, but after seeing your pics I'm a little tempted to do seals, gaskets, chain guides, and cleaning for longevity's sake. Before, my goal with my 3.2 was to hit the 200k mile mark, but I might readjust that to at least 250k miles.

      Could you keep us updated on your parts cost because I think this good measure can be done for around $100-$150 in parts.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      If it were me, yes change that gasket and any o-rings, seals, gaskets you can see. If you use a razor, make sure not to scratch or mar the aluminum surface. When I remove valve covers or timing covers in any vehicle, I like to change the plastic chain guides while I am there. I sometimes do the chain tensioner too, depending on the engine.

      I haven't researched this, but is that dirty inner channel running from the rear upper to the front intake manifold the PCV return? If so, clean it out.

      I'm not due for a serpentine belt for another 50k miles, but after seeing your pics I'm a little tempted to do seals, gaskets, chain guides, and cleaning for longevity's sake. Before, my goal with my 3.2 was to hit the 200k mile mark, but I might readjust that to at least 250k miles.

      Could you keep us updated on your parts cost because I think this good measure can be done for around $100-$150 in parts.
      I'll post a part list later!

      I'm not sure about the oil channels, but yes, the do look like they could be cleaned.

      Also, I wasn't sure about the chain guides and tensioner, so I'm glad you mentioned that. The chain looks good, and the guides look fine. I was trying to keep costs down, but am open to looking into it. From what I saw they are "lifetime", but we all know that doesn't mean it'll last 999999k+ miles.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      I have yet to have one of those come in with a timing chain related failure. Doesn't mean it can't happen, of course. Just isn't at all common. I do replace the tensioner if I'm taking the chain off, though.

    24. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      I have yet to have one of those come in with a timing chain related failure. Doesn't mean it can't happen, of course. Just isn't at all common. I do replace the tensioner if I'm taking the chain off, though.
      What's the benefit/your reason to replacing the tensioner if removing the chain?
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      Just covering my ass, really.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Just covering my ass, really.
      Have you seen tensioners fail? Does the tensioner expand a decent amount? It's my understanding that as the chain stretches, the tensioners pushes itself out to keep tension.

      I'm curious when the point is that the tensioner can no longer extend to compensate for chain stretching. Or is this all kinda not a big deal in the real world application.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      I'm curious when the point is that the tensioner can no longer extend to compensate for chain stretching. Or is this all kinda not a big deal in the real world application.
      It's not really stretch; it's wear. When the tensioner looses its ability to compensate for the wear, the chain is pretty badly worn, and that's how you end up with broken timing chains. Once it gets loose enough to make noise it's time to replace it.
      John C
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      2011 XC90 3.2 173,000 miles and counting...

    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      It's not really stretch; it's wear. When the tensioner looses its ability to compensate for the wear, the chain is pretty badly worn, and that's how you end up with broken timing chains. Once it gets loose enough to make noise it's time to replace it.
      Any info on the longevity of Volvo chains and guides? Owner is trying to keep the car until it just can't run anymore.
      Last edited by mgm7890; 01-18-2020 at 11:04 PM.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      Quote Originally Posted by John C View Post
      It's not really stretch; it's wear. When the tensioner looses its ability to compensate for the wear, the chain is pretty badly worn, and that's how you end up with broken timing chains. Once it gets loose enough to make noise it's time to replace it.
      Exactly as John C said. The wear. A tensioner can degrade its overall tension, while not failing. Chain guides can wear grooves and any plastic can crack over time.


      Quote Originally Posted by mgm7890 View Post
      Any info on the longevity of Volvo chains and guides? Owner is trying to keep the car until it just can't run anymore.
      No info on longevity and no known short lifespan issues. However, you have everything open and check prices if the owner can afford the tensioner and guides.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
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    30. #28
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      FYI: I found the plastic chain guides at only $26.80 for the set of 3 and the tensioner at $40.76 for my 2008. Double-check your year 3.2.
      https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p.../30759064.html
      https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p.../30677866.html
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    31. #29
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      Yeah. A local dealer has local pickup at prices the tensioner at $38.21, and the guides at $25.13. They also offer a kit (30759065) which would include the chain.

      I'll talk to the owner about it. I get the "while you're in there"mentality.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    32. #30
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      Owner wants to replace timing chain, tensioner, and guides. They want to keep this going and not worry about it down the road!
      2005 S40 2.4i

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      I would do the same thing since a tensioner alone is ~$38-$40, but the chain & tensioner pair is ~$70. Still looking like this all can be done for around $150 in parts.

      If the owner wants to keep this for a long time, may I also suggest to do the transmission fluid since you have it because the dealer probably hasn't done it. It is a bigger pain in time for an owner to come back to do that additional work. What year 3.2 is it?
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
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      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    34. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      I would do the same thing since a tensioner alone is ~$38-$40, but the chain & tensioner pair is ~$70. Still looking like this all can be done for around $150 in parts.

      If the owner wants to keep this for a long time, may I also suggest to do the transmission fluid since you have it because the dealer probably hasn't done it. It is a bigger pain in time for an owner to come back to do that additional work. What year 3.2 is it?
      They live close by, so they will do that later.

      I have a running list list. I'll try to organize it later.

      It's a 2007 with 150k.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    35. #33
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      Could you keep us updated on your parts cost because I think this good measure can be done for around $100-$150 in parts.
      Here's what I've replaced as part of the 112.5 and 150k suggested maintenance.

      I broke it down in relation to the attached part diagrams.

      Cooling System:


      #21 - 30670569 (O-Ring Coolant Pump) [$2.64] *
      #22 - 975667 (Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring) [$1.85] *
      #28 - 31219000 (Water Pump Kit - Includes WP/Gaskets/Screws) [$134.33]
      #33 - 31219096 (Water Pump Coupling - Includes Plastic Coupling to PS Pump and Coupling - Must replace if doing so the first time according to VIDA) [$60.91]
      #43 - 30670570 (O-Ring) [$2.64] *

      Engine Transmission:


      #5 - 8692941 (Timing Cover Intermediate Gasket) [$12.23] *
      #12 - 30711317 (Engine Crankshaft Seal) [$10.26] *
      #16 - 30759064 (Tensioning Guide Rail Pack - 3) [$25.14] *
      #20 - 30759065 (Chain Kit - Includes Chain & Tensioner) [$70.19] *
      #26 - 31251345 (Timing Cover Inner Gasket) [$45.18] *
      #27 - 30711315 (Timing Cover Outer Gasket) [$45.18] *
      #28 - 30696265 (Gasket - Lower Seal on Inner Cover) [$3.19] *
      #29 - 30677807 (Gasket - R.E.A.D. Assembly to Inner Cover) [$7.44] *
      #38 (x2) - 988589 (Exhaust cam uses a TTY bolt, so I replaced them both) [$2.88/ea = $5.76] *
      #47 - 31316803 (Decoupler Pulley - The cover comes with #49) [$251.28] {$103.76 for INA}
      #48 - 988566 (Decoupler Pulley Bolt) [$2.08]
      #49 - 30777012 (Decoupler Pulley Cover) [$2.84] *

      Accessory Drive System:


      #20 - 31401193 (Idler Pulley) [$47.96]
      #22 - 30757007 (Serpentine Belt) [$38.03] {$10.99 for Continental}
      #23 - 30750804 (PS Pump to WP Pin - Included with water pump kit) [$1.61] *
      #24 - 31401286 (Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner) [$79.55] {$56.76 for INA}

      Crank Mechanism:


      #17 - 30637986 (Engine Crankshaft Seal - Must be replaced for special tool to be inserted) [$6.94] *

      Cylinder Head:


      #13 (x2) 31251117 (Engine Camshaft Seal - Must be replaced for special tool to be inserted) [$5.24/ea = $10.48] *

      You'd also want to change your coolant, so add a 4L concentrate mix to it.
      ---------

      I bought most of my parts from Boston Volvo Village and FCPEuro. I used a mixture of Genuine Volvo parts and OE parts.

      I did need to use special tools to do this job "by the book".

      Special tools used:

      Lisle 57650 (Alternator Decoupler Pulley Remover Tool) [$24.60]
      9997265 (Reverse Lip Seal Installer) [$36.08]
      9997262 (Auxillary Bracket Installer) [$156.37]

      The final tools all came in an aftermarket kit [$200] to use to remove the camshaft hubs. I imagine a genuine kit with these is very expensive:
      9997264
      9997263
      9997261
      9997266
      9997271
      9997257
      9997267
      9997272

      -------

      I'm sure you can find better prices or deals, but I was just listing this all for reference. Could you reuse some of the gaskets or o-rings? Sure, that's up to you though.

      So, all genuine parts would put you at $867.71 plus tax.

      Add special tools to that at $217.05. Some places let you rent these tools, or you can borrow them if you know someone that has them...

      If you supplement aftermarket parts for some things that I listed above, parts are $688.36

      ------

      Now, let's say you don't need the 112.5k or 150k services, and you just want to do preventative maintainence like ChitownV. I marked those item with a '*'.

      Parts would be $253.57. The majority of that is the chain kit and the two gaskets. Those alone are $160.55.
      Last edited by mgm7890; 01-20-2020 at 05:58 PM.
      2005 S40 2.4i

    36. #34
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      Great summary! I like how you also gave the aftermarket/OE parts price and that can drop the overall cost nearly $200 for all you are doing.

      The chain/cover parts cost still isn't bad at ~$250. If I buy the tools, I could recoup part of the cost and re-sell it here when I'm done.

      I'm gonna add this thread to the About the 3.2 one.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 148k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

    37. #35
      Member mgm7890's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ChitownV View Post
      Great summary! I like how you also gave the aftermarket/OE parts price and that can drop the overall cost nearly $200 for all you are doing.

      The chain/cover parts cost still isn't bad at ~$250. If I buy the tools, I could recoup part of the cost and re-sell it here when I'm done.

      I'm gonna add this thread to the About the 3.2 one.
      Sounds good! I'll post the write-up here. Everything is apart and finally cleaned. Honestly, cleaned took the longest. The remaining parts should arrive at the end of this week and it'll go back together this weekend.

      As far as the tools go, they aren't that bad. The decoupler pulley tool is good to have. The timing set kit works on 3.2 and 3.0T engines. I have a 3.0T XC60, so I'm sure I'll need it at one point.

      The seal installer is cheap but needed! It is a reverse lip seal. If you do not install it with the special tool, the "lip" will be backwards and the seal will leak.

      The positioning tool is tricky. Some say you don't need it, but I didn't see it worth the risk. It helps align everything up quickly so the AC clutch and decoupler pulley are aligned for the accessory belt. It's a silly design that you need a tool to realign them, which is probably why Volvo changed the bracket design later.
      Last edited by mgm7890; 01-20-2020 at 07:09 PM.
      2005 S40 2.4i

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