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"Power system service urgent" questions (P062001 & P062074 codes)

8K views 14 replies 11 participants last post by  tattedtriathlete 
#1 ·
Got the red "power system service urgent" message yesterday while out shopping...stopped and restarted the car, and it went away for a few miles, then came back. Repeated that cycle a few times trying to limp home, and wound up needing a tow (did another stop, but battery was too weak to restart). Hooked up the DICE and got (among others), codes P062001 "generator control circuit - general electric failure" and P062074 (generator control circuit - mechanical failures - actuator slipping"). After I got home, the tow driver hooked up his starter box (across the engine bay jump point, not direct to the battery) and got 10V with the engine running. So, it looks like a bad alternator...except that today when I hooked my meter direct to the (fully charged) battery, with the engine running and all accessories on, I got about 13.9V dwindling to 13.65V and holding there. So, questions:

1) Is voltage in the high 13V range low, or is that low?
2) Anything else I should check before popping for a new alternator?
3) Should I be OK with a remanufactured Bosch unit, or is there a consensus for Volvo-branded?
4) I've read in other threads that on the 2.5T, the control system for the alternator changed around 2005 making it tricky to get the right alternator. Any similar pitfalls on the V8?
 
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#2 ·
I got the same massage on Last week "Power System Service Urgent" which went away after turning off the engine and restart. It hasn't come back since.

Should I start looking for replacing the alternator now to avoid being stranded [emoji33].

Is Bosch remanufactured alternator a good choice?

It is 2007 xc90 v8 with 195k km on the clock

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
#4 · (Edited)
Urgent Help Please.


Over the weekend I got the same red Triangle again with "Power System Service Urgent". So I called my mechanic and we ordered the remanufactured Bosch (180 Amber) for the V8. I installed the Alternator yesterday along with changing the idler and the tensioner pulleys and Serpentine Belt. The battery also was re-charged.

While at it, I installed new Beilstein B4 front struts, new mounting plates, new spring seats, new end links, and new ball joints.

Total cost for parts and labour is CAD $3500.00

So today morning while in my way to work, the Red Triangle Light came up again with the same message "Power System Service Urgent". and then all lights start flashing: " Transmission Urgent Service" " Brake Failure" etc. etc. I stopped immediately on the shoulder of the highway and the car came to completely dead.

I called my mechanic and got the car towed back to his shop. He is telling me now (according to Volvo dealers) there is a new modification to Volvo XC90 V8 Alternator with new air ventilation/cooling and I need to order a new Volvo OEM Alternator instead of the Remanufactured Bosch part. In addition to the Alternator (CAD $800), there is a new part for the air ventilation (around CAD $250) that I need to get as well.

Has anyone had any idea what is new modification is? is he right? have anyone done this recently?

I appreciate any help here.
 
#5 ·
The new air ventilation part should not affect it charging specially if the alternator was replaced, there have been known instances where the rebuilt alternator was indeed bad out of the box.
 
#6 ·
Swapped in a Bosch reman unit last week, then did a little over 500 miles over the weekend. No charging problems. Job was, of course, a multi-day bitch of a project (also did a LCA swap while I was in there). Thanks to everyone for the input.
 
#7 ·
I ended up getting the Volvo OE new part from the dealer (at discounted CAD $620 which almost the same price of the Bosch rebuild Alternator of CAD $580). In addition to the new modification part (air ventilation) for CAD $240. Installed and things are back to normal.

I really hope this is the last most expensive work I need to do to my Volvo. No more pouring money in it (finger crossed)
 
#9 ·
2006 xc90 4.4L Alternator

I have searched and searched on repairs and FINALLY did the amazing Alternator replacement. I bought a ReManufactured from AdvancedAuto with promo for like $180 total. Anyways.....*
I got my old one out new one installed which took all of 8 hours. 1 day later My POWER SYSTEM FAILURE SERVICE URGENT came on the dash. I found that my LIN wire connector on the Alternator was loose and would only slide up and down and would NEVER clip into place onto the Alternator. I bought a replacement Alternator plug off eBay for $8 and used cut off the OLD Connector. I used a Tap Splice connector and plugged the new harness / connector on to the Alternator but it was stil not charging. I thought F**K I may have to drop the Alternator again and have it tested. I also NOTICED my Washer T connector on the Pass side was also broken on the bottom which dumped Fluid down towards the alternator, so i replaced that as well.*

Here is what I'm getting at....I NEVER saw this on ANY FORUM, so I wanted to SHARE in case someone runs into this as well. I have a iCarsoft Scanner. I thought WHY NOT checked and see what codes it may display. I showed the ECM having a ECM-U012087 " Lost communication with starter / Generator Control Module.

ALL I DID WAS ERASE THAT CODE AND BOOOOMMMM THE CAR WAS BACK TO CHARGING!!!!!! It has been 2 weeks since I have cleared that code with no issues charging. CHECK YOUR VOLVO ERROR CODES WITH A SCANNER, AND ERASE! I hope that helps someone!*
 
#10 ·
Had a similar issue and warnings in a V6

I have a 3.2L V6, so this might not help you, but might help someone else-
When I had all kinds of error messages as described in this thread, the problem was the coupling bolt for the alternator had backed out, so the engine was no longer providing torque to the alternator. In a V-6 this is relatively easy to check with a long handled screwdriver, the black rubber coupling kind of looks like a belt and is visible between the intake manifold channels at the front of the engine. If you can spin the coupling freely with the screw driver, then the bolt has backed out.

(The alternator for the engine is under the intake manifold and is not directly belt-driven)

The intake manifold was a struggle to remove and replace, and I broke a sensor plug that I had to pay someone to fix. Once the manifold was out of the way, pulling the alternator, coupling, and re-installing the bolt was easy. Make sure you torque it properly and put in some thread locker.

That was a couple years ago. The xc90 is now up to 167,000 miles, haven't had any more trouble with the alternator.

2007 XC90 3.2L V6 AWD.
 
#11 ·
Had a similar issue with my alternator a few months back. My mechanic advised using a new Hella alternator and he has been using Hella to replace the Volvo Bosch alternators with no issues. And it was way cheaper than a new Volvo OEM alternator.

I was sceptical and worried at first, but all is fine and compatible. So Hella appears to be a good aftermarket alternative
 
#13 ·
I had this issue pop up last night. 3.2L V6, 102,000 miles. Driving along, and then hesitation and no acceleration. “POWER SYSTEM FAILURE SERVICE URGENT” and a Christmas tree of lights on the dash, then “ANTI SKID TEMPORARILY DISABLED” in the display.

Pulled off to the side of the road, powered down. Went to restart the car, and wouldn’t start. Clicked like the starter was trying to engage, but more of a single click rather than the rapid clicks I’m used to hearing with starters. Interior lights eventually died, but flashers were going strong (2+ hours) while waiting on roadside assistance. Roadside assistance came with a jump pack, got us up and running right away. Driving home, no issues, no lights, nothing.

It’s got me confused. At first, with all electrics functioning fine and clicking in the engine bay, I was thinking starter or alternator. The longer I sat, the more it started to seem like battery. Then with the jump pack working its magic, I’m really thinking battery. Anyone have other explanations here?

I’m going to be getting ready for some 100k service items (Plugs, coils, PCV, engine mounts) in addition to a new battery (honestly could use it anyway, just wondering if that’s my issue), anything else I should specifically check for while I’m under the hood?
 
#15 ·
Well, the bolt is still in snugly, everything moving as it should. The issue has reoccurred in the last couple of days, but instead of stopping and turning off, I’ve continued driving. I’ve noticed no ill effects from doing so - all electric functions are working fine, no loss of power, and the warning goes away on its own. Going to replace voltage regulator and see what we get.

@vince1 you knew what I meant, so... tomato, tomato. Since you seem to be an expert, what amperage should I be looking at for my alternator? Looks like a 160 or 180 amp are the options.
 
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