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Disappointed with dyno results (Hilton Stage 2.5 tune)

11K views 34 replies 14 participants last post by  EngTech 
#1 · (Edited)
Car is a 2006 S40 T5 AWD with ~103k miles on it. Just bought a couple of weeks ago from a former SwedeSpeed member. (He went full Ford and has a 2015 Mustang GT now.) Well maintained, all the little stuff already taken care of.

He did the following performance mods:

3" EST downpipe
DO88 intercooler (full kit, big pipes all around)
Magnaflow cat-back exhaust
Larger intake tube and a pod style filter (a downgrade from stock airbox, I know)

He then got a Hilton stage 2.5 tune. I have DICE and the tune files.

Just went to one of two local shops with 4 wheel dynos, paid for 3 pulls. Nice guys, seemed to know what they were doing.

Here is the graph:


Rounding, 231hp, 277lb-ft at the wheels.

This is on a Mustang (150?) 4 wheel dyno.

Is the car not making power like it should, or am I just expecting too much? I somehow got it in my head it should be making around 300hp at the crank (Am I? Is Haldex that lossy?) but now I can't seem to find anyone pulling those numbers with a similar setup. In fact... I haven't found a single P1 (S40/C30/V50) Hilton 2.5 dyno graph. Maybe I'm just bad at searches.

Are my expectations unreasonable? Is there something wrong with the car? Something wrong with the tune? I was really gung-ho to keep building this engine, but starting with far less power than I thought it had has me hesitant. Expectation bias.

Haven't reached out to Hilton yet. I like how the car drives and had planned to go to a K16 and bigger injectors in the near future, intending to go back to Hilton for the upgraded tune. Now (perhaps unfairly) I'm wondering if I should go to Contrast or that guy on Instagram everyone is crazy about lately instead. That of course assuming it's worth bothering with in the first place.

Please, share your experience and suggestions, I'm feeling more than a little lost. Thanks.
 
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#2 ·
230 WHP doesn't sound bad, and at 20% loss is about 290 crank HP, and20% is a low estimate for AWD cars to my knowledge. Doesn't sound too bad to me. I think that pod filter isn't doing any favors - I'd expect to see peak power a touch higher than 5200 RPM, maybe 5500 RPM which would add some power.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks. I'm looking hard at that DO88 intake kit, but I think they're asking way too much, and as someone said "that looks like a weird vacuum cleaner attachment". Still, numbers are hard to argue with.

Someone want to let me borrow theirs? I'm gonna make a mold out of Sugru. [emoji6]

Edit: the other thing that frustrated me: Heatsoaked instantly! DO88 intercooler is about 2x stock size / volume. Dropped 10 HP right off the first run. I expected better.
 
#4 ·
My understanding based on what I've read is that the stock airbox is good fora lot more power than even a K16 can make and is more or less a cold air intake. Don't take my word for it, though.

I think the stock turbo just makes a ton of heat when you turn up the boost. A K16 would run much cooler. That being said, I haven't noticed any issues with my Do88 heatsoaking, though I've never had a dyno session and only drive it on the street without many consecutive pulls.
 
#5 · (Edited)
DO88 says theirs is better than stock all around and has the graphs to back it up (and amusingly it looks like a streamlined stock box with a big oiled foam panel filter, so, makes sense) but I can't get theirs from a junkyard for $50 or less like the stock box.

The question then becomes "how much is 5 degrees C lower intake temperatures in heat soak conditions worth"? I do intend to autocross this car, so heat soak is in its future. I dunno.

There's currently no heat shielding on the intake; I may try to make something with plastic and heat reflective tape (saw someone make one with a little trash can and was inspired). We'll see how that goes.

What you think about this?
https://www.vivaperformance.com/cci-intake-system-volvo-s40-v50-c30-c70/

Price is right and I like the design. Would feel silly paying $250 if stock is better, though.

A K16 or hybrid turbo and injectors is in the cards for this thing soon as I can get the cash together.
 
#16 ·
Redid my math.

Kind as you are, 230 at the wheel + 20% works out to 276hp crank. So.... Very generous. I'd have to be at 30% loss (which is horrific) to get to 300 crank.
The math is not to add 20% to your wheel horsepower. The math would state that 230 is 80% of your crank horsepower. So, 230 / 0.8 = 287.5

If 25% loss, 230 / 0.75 = 306.7 as mentioned above.
 
#10 · (Edited)
M66, 6 speed manual. Sorry I didn't include originally.

Boost is around 15psi max in all gears, based on my dash gauge.

I did not install the gauge and have no idea how accurate it is.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Ok. Those numbers sound right for that package then.
(230whp @ 25% loss is 306 crank hp)

Stage 2.5 should run 18-19psi so it would be worth looking into. I would also switch to 1-step colder plugs on a 2.5 tune.
Make sure its tuned for the right fuel. Would be good to do a boost leak and a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks. A full "stage 0" go-over on the car is also helpful, as the drivetrain (especially fluids) get neglected on these cars bad. If the M66 or transfer case or rear diff fluids havent been serviced they are going to be gross and burnt, also wearing on the Haldex clutches.

Factory intercooler pipes? Or the full do88 kit (pipes and core)
 
#13 ·
I have HVTroom; not sure if it's current but I can update if needed. Will post logs some time in the next couple days

I'm down in Charleston, SC (sea level).
 
#14 ·
For me, the 'seat of the pants' feel was night and day before and after Hilton stage 1 tune. I just knew there was improvement in response and pull (I also have a boost gauge) and am quite happy with the investiment. Unfortunately, if you bought it with Hilton 2.5 you can't tell before and after. Half the fun of a tune is to get that before and after tune woohoo moment.
 
#15 ·
For what it's worth, Mustang dynos almost always read significantly lower than others... especially the older ones. I used to own one (recognized your chart right away LOL,) great for load tuning but heartbreakers in terms of the numbers. They would definitely be higher on a Dynojet or nearly any other dyno for that matter.

And yeah, 9.5 AFR is hella rich, but doesn't look like it was reading properly since the AFR line is totally flat.
 
#18 ·
For what it's worth, Mustang dynos almost always read significantly lower than others... especially the older ones. I used to own one (recognized your chart right away LOL,) great for load tuning but heartbreakers in terms of the numbers. They would definitely be higher on a Dynojet or nearly any other dyno for that matter.

And yeah, 9.5 AFR is hella rich, but doesn't look like it was reading properly since the AFR line is totally flat.
They told me from the start the ODB2 link wasn't cooperating and they had to force it, so... Don't trust all the numbers.
 
#19 ·
Here is a link to a discussion about a C30 with a similar setup.

(Click on see 21 comments)

His number are 230 AWHP and 308 Torque at 20psi peak boost on stock k04. All in all, that seem pretty much the same except the higher torque.

I own a 2010 S40 T5 AWD M66 R-Design and have roughly the same setup as you. Ill get it for a tune on the dyno soon when im done finishing the pods (PSI and A/F) and post a build thread with result/comments.
 
#20 ·
Anyone of these Tuners - have - Ethanol Compensation Senors they are able to Add ?
Could use B50 ?

Also Porting gets the extra 400 Rpm with Power .. .
 
#21 ·
Hope He took Time to get K04 CHRA Highly Balanced as I have Heard the Extra Boost Wears on Turbo's Bearings & Higher RPM any slight Out of Balance will add as much Weight as a Brick 150,000 RPM ..
OE Turbo's are Only Balanced for mild Boost ..& Rpm's

EricVolvoR Here is a link to a discussion about a C30 with a similar setup.

(Click on see 21 comments)

His number are 230 AWHP and 308 Torque at 20psi peak boost on stock k04. All in all, that seem pretty much the same except the higher torque.

I own a 2010 S40 T5 AWD M66 R-Design and have roughly the same setup as you. Ill get it for a tune on the dyno soon when im done finishing the pods (PSI and A/F) and post a build thread with result/comments.[/QUOTE]
 
#23 ·
Yeah 20 psi seems high for a K04. From what i read getting past 15 psi with that turbo only generate heat without any power gain.

If you have 3-4 min check that Youtube video. https://drivetribe.com/p/our-modded...k-fqQmyJd4qt8eoIoA?iid=VA4CUvIJQC6D_UH7pX7Vuw

The guy is from the C30 Crew (P1 platform) and just added an Intercooler (Elevate) with the cold air intake and then get back to the dyno to see any improvement. (He had the Downpipe and Catback before and wasnt pleased enough with the result)

Hes getting 247 WHP and 318 Torque. (Its on FWD Mustang Dyno)

So there again the number seems to correlate with you.

Aside this ''Stage 2,5 set up'' Im wondering if adding the 7+7 Turbo Billet Compressor Wheel to that set up would get some little extra power. (There isnt much more review about it)

I ordered one from Viva but will wait to see what the tuner say about it. Rebalancing the CHRA is recommended and that sound like a turbo rebuild to me.
 
#25 ·
This is all very interesting and relevant to me. I've received the Hilton 2.5+ tune but haven't installed it yet as I need to regap the plugs before I do (I'm running a step colder as someone else mentioned.

I'm running similar mods (have a look at my build thread in the signature) - Do88 cooler, snaab intake pipe, I've got that CCI air filter you were looking at. I've also got a turbo back 3 inch exhaust and high flow cat... Air filter is ok (Is feeding from outside air but given it's going all the way around the engine bay like all the others I suspect it suffers from heat soak). I'm thinking about heat wrapping the intake and maybe a turbo blanket to try and get under hood temps down a little.

I'm curious as to the numbers it might be running once I get the tune in (maybe in a week or two) as I too had expectations around 300+HP.

I should add that I did the full stage zero thing including Haldex refresh, new clutch etc.

I wasn't planning on getting it dynoed but I'll let you know what I think of the but dyno afterwards!

I'm not really planning to do much more to the car (as I've got an old VW that needs some love too) but I may overhaul the turbo as I've got a GFB TCV and a billet compressor wheel sitting on the shelf winking at me.

I hope you work out the issue with your set up!
 
#26 ·
Actually CCI was Dyno'd back in Day over in UK had some very good results for those Needing more Room do to Elevate Upper being as Large as it is ..
Many had Issues getting stock Unit back in ~ I just was able to Squeeze Stock back in with removing 1 back Mount and Heat Molding the Back just a little to Allow Better Fitting .

I have 1 Turbo on Hand Now for Rebuilding , Porting , New CHRA , with or Without 7+7 Wheel , Coatings are Recommended ..

I have 1 Lower Unit already Done another shipping in Ported and May Include Coating Prep ~

Time will starting to run out as other Projects will be coming ~ On Line ~
 
#27 ·
Really interesting, since I too have Hilton stg 2+ S40 AWD. My gauge shows 18-19 psi, but it's a cheap one cheap one and not very accurate. Vida shows a bit lower readings from boost sensor last time I logged. I wonder if 4th gear would be any better... Probably not. Any idea what was the ambient temp/pressure?
 
#29 · (Edited)
The third run was a 4th gear pull, but it had already heat soaked and didn't make any more power. Pulls were done around 11am January 17th, temperature was probably about 60F in the bay (unheated garage, 55F high for the day).

Going to put VIDA on it after work and see how reported boost compares with my gauge.
 
#28 ·
The GlowShift digital gauge on my V50 with stock K04 and ARD Stage II shows 17 or 18 depending on the weather. Planning on going with an EngTech lower inlet to complement my new Elevate upper. Then, after a few more upgrades I might try out a dyno - but it will be a 2wd unit.

686Sport
 
#35 · (Edited)
Thank You much , like one other stated Spacer on the stock Air Box Unit and Open Up that Horn Scoop Plastic Item in Frt. of Radiator - instead of Two Opening on Both Ends _ I slit it and
Removed 33% on Bottom to allow Positive Air Pressure to be Applied to Larger Area - when Volvo is Moving ..

Lower Unit is Shipping out Soon - You'll have to Trim Your Thermal Gasket some cly. 1, 2, 3, Etc. are Plus .110 , .100 , .107 Larger then stock Going In .
Around .045 -.050 Larger coming Out .. Normally a Stock Intake has Fairly Large Step .040 -.050 Smaller & "Not Lined Up" - Going into Lower Stock Intake Units ..

Now it's just the Opposite it'll Puff - Air Rings - ( Like Smoke Rings ) @ Very Slow Speeds . . Velocity Stack effect should start to Chime in 3600 R's

Seeing Volvo Designed these Turbos' to come on Line @ Low Rpm - they Squeezed Lower Unit smaller to Speed Up Flow . . seeing Turbo running Extra Boost it's already Sped Up ..
 
#30 · (Edited)
😐 Am I missing something here? Why don't you just flash back to stock and take another run?

I did a run with Polestar and got about 225/255 at the wheels. My first tune from Rob felt about the same, so he had me take a log and he tweaked it. Biiig difference. I'm betting he got me about 10% more across the board, but I'm waiting for warmer weather to have a comparable dyno run. First gear is actually kind of a pita, even with LSD, heavier duty clutch and SMF. Traction control is funny, though. I think they must not look at all four wheels at launch, because it will let both wheels spin without cutting power, I'm assuming because there isn't a difference in speed between the driven wheels.

If you took the first tune he gave you, you didn't get nearly all the power.

* Just re-read. Yeah, you're getting all of it. I'd roll the tune back and compare.
 
#31 · (Edited)
[emoji52] Am I missing something here? Why don't you just flash back to stock and take another run?

I did a run with Polestar and got about 225/255 at the wheels. My first tune from Rob felt about the same, so he had me take a log and he tweaked it. Biiig difference. I'm betting he got me about 10% more across the board, but I'm waiting for warmer weather to have a comparable dyno run. First gear is actually kind of a pita, even with LSD, heavier duty clutch and SMF. Traction control is funny, though. I think they must not look at all four wheels at launch, because it will let both wheels spin without cutting power, I'm assuming because there isn't a difference in speed between the driven wheels.

If you took the first tune he gave you, you didn't get nearly all the power.
I think this is the third revision, at least. I didn't buy the tune from Hilton, it was on the car (with the mods) when I bought it about 3 weeks ago. The previous owner never had the car on a dyno, they just said "oh this feels better" and were happy with it. Given I didn't buy the tune I don't expect Rob to refine it for free, but by the same token if the tune isn't putting up the numbers it should I'm not willing to spend $400+ once I get a bigger turbo for the car to update it, either, when others getting similar or better results seem to be out there at lower price points.

Also, I'd love to do more pulls, but there are only two 4 wheel dynos in town here, and the cheaper one is $150 for 3 pulls, minimum. That adds up fast and there are tons of ways I'd rather spend the money.
 
#33 ·
Have a chat to the dyno place and ask about renting the dyno for an hour.

I've done that here before, they charge more for people wanting to just get a power number but are more willing to help when they know people are troubleshooting something and arnt just after a 3 pull pass to get a power figure.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
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