Questions on 2015.5 XC60
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    1. #1
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      Questions on 2015.5 XC60

      I have the 2015.5 T6 Drive-E FWD XC60. Closing in on 50K trouble free miles. Iíve used the start/stop since taking delivery, mostly drive in the ďecoĒ mode, especially on highway. My question is regarding the turbo cool down mentioned in the manual; if start/stop is activated, the engine obviously shuts off when parking without any cool down idling? Is this a problem, detrimental to turbo? Is it a reason to deactivate the start/stop every time I use the car? I know Iím in minority, but I got used to and like the added start/stop feature. Iíve heard conflicting arguments as to why I should and should not use the start/stop feature. Any thoughts are appreciated. Also, vehicle has recently started to stutter, jerk at lower speed, after coming to a stop or turn. When accelerating it starts to the stutter at about 10-15mph around 1500-1700RPM. Almost feels like a manual transmission in a higher gear too early. Any thoughts? It is going into dealer for a check on Wednesday. Iím thinking of asking them to change transmission fluid, even if thatís not the cause, but thought at 50k miles, it would be a good p/m move. Any thoughts and suggestions on anything here would be most appreciated. Thanks

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    3. #2
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      I have the 2015.5 T6 Drive-E FWD XC60. Closing in on 50K trouble free miles. Iíve used the start/stop since taking delivery, mostly drive in the ďecoĒ mode, especially on highway. My question is regarding the turbo cool down mentioned in the manual; if start/stop is activated, the engine obviously shuts off when parking without any cool down idling? Is this a problem, detrimental to turbo? Is it a reason to deactivate the start/stop every time I use the car? I know Iím in minority, but I got used to and like the added start/stop feature. Iíve heard conflicting arguments as to why I should and should not use the start/stop feature. Any thoughts are appreciated. Also, vehicle has recently started to stutter, jerk at lower speed, after coming to a stop or turn. When accelerating it starts to the stutter at about 10-15mph around 1500-1700RPM. Almost feels like a manual transmission in a higher gear too early. Any thoughts? It is going into dealer for a check on Wednesday. Iím thinking of asking them to change transmission fluid, even if thatís not the cause, but thought at 50k miles, it would be a good p/m move. Any thoughts and suggestions on anything here would be most appreciated. Thanks
      I'm not sure how Volvo manages their stop start system - I can tell you the vehicle line I work on has a bunch of parameters which can prevent stop start from functioning. For instance, coolant temp or battery voltage. My assumption is the logic is able to prevent stop start if oil/ coolant temp is too high.

      Moreover, this vehicle has an electric water pump. So, likely coolant is still flowing through the turbo cartridge pulling heat out of it even when the engine isn't running.

      Finally, unless your pushing the car to it's limits really heat soaking it, I wouldn't give it a second thought. Modern turbochargers are water-cooled and can moderate temperature much better than the solely oil cooled turbos of the past.



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      Thanks emgrock1. Appreciate any/all feedback on items I am asking about. Your post is helpful.

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      If it's stuttering at low rpms I'm wondering if there is a fuel problem or perhaps the car is out of tune. Have the spark plugs been changed on the car yet? I don't if that's supposed to be done at 60k maybe so do it a little early? From what you're describing it doesn't sound like the transmission.

      Regarding start/stop, I'd probably just let the car do it's thing.
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      Thanks for your input. Plugs are original, and to be changed at 60k service but maybe I will ask them to change tomorrow when itís in for diagnosis. Also considering request to change transmission fluid whether or not thatís the issue. I see they will only do that on vehicles pulling trailers, extreme use, but Iím old school on preventative maintenance and hold onto cars 12-15 years. Iíve had good success in doing pm at the more frequent intervals. Any thoughts on trans fluid change at 50k? I hope they donít give me pushback when I ask them to change it, but if thereís a good reason not to, Iíd like to hear from anybody out there. Thanks

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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      Thanks for your input. Plugs are original, and to be changed at 60k service but maybe I will ask them to change tomorrow when itís in for diagnosis. Also considering request to change transmission fluid whether or not thatís the issue. I see they will only do that on vehicles pulling trailers, extreme use, but Iím old school on preventative maintenance and hold onto cars 12-15 years. Iíve had good success in doing pm at the more frequent intervals. Any thoughts on trans fluid change at 50k? I hope they donít give me pushback when I ask them to change it, but if thereís a good reason not to, Iíd like to hear from anybody out there. Thanks
      I am also an advocate of changing fluids regularly and 50k is a good interval to do so.

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      Quote Originally Posted by emgrock1 View Post
      I am also an advocate of changing fluids regularly and 50k is a good interval to do so.

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      Well, my dealer told me they wonít do transmission fluid changes-sealed transmissions and not required nor recommended by Volvo. Iím skeptical, but donít think I will go to an independent shop for fear of Volvo excluding something if future issue and voids any remaining warranty because of third party work. It goes into their shop tomorrow morning to see whatís up with the occasional stuttering at low speeds. Iíve never owned a vehicle that had a ďsealedĒ transmission. I donít have the means to work on the car myself, so I always use dealer for all services except tires. They have been excellent and havenít given me any reason in past to be concerned, but the fact they refuse to change trans fluid even if I pay for it, has me concerned.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      Well, my dealer told me they wonít do transmission fluid changes-sealed transmissions and not required nor recommended by Volvo. Iím skeptical, but donít think I will go to an independent shop for fear of Volvo excluding something if future issue and voids any remaining warranty because of third party work. It goes into their shop tomorrow morning to see whatís up with the occasional stuttering at low speeds. Iíve never owned a vehicle that had a ďsealedĒ transmission. I donít have the means to work on the car myself, so I always use dealer for all services except tires. They have been excellent and havenít given me any reason in past to be concerned, but the fact they refuse to change trans fluid even if I pay for it, has me concerned.
      Sealed transmission is BS. It has a drain and fill plug, clearly not a sealed unit.

      This transmission is used in many many other applications, all with 50k maintenance schedules. Why Volvo chose to not add transmission flush to the list of scheduled maintenance is beyond me.

      I've flushed both of my vehicles one at 60k one at 70k.

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      Quote Originally Posted by emgrock1 View Post
      Sealed transmission is BS. It has a drain and fill plug, clearly not a sealed unit.

      This transmission is used in many many other applications, all with 50k maintenance schedules. Why Volvo chose to not add transmission flush to the list of scheduled maintenance is beyond me.

      I've flushed both of my vehicles one at 60k one at 70k.

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      Yes-Iíve read this in other threads. Iím stymied as to why my dealer was adamant on doing this for me, since I will pay for it. At this point, donít know if I should persist in asking them again to do it when I drop it off for diagnosing the studder issue tomorrow morning, and if they still refuse, perhaps I should call another dealer thatís local but about 25 minutes further away, or if I should seek out a local shop that specializes/qualified to work on Volvoís. I ordered the car new back in 2014; with intentions of holding onto it for 10-15 years, which Iíve done with previous cars. Iím a maintenance nut, and would like maintain this by my standards. Volvo has been quirky with the way they handled a few previous issues for me. I love this vehicle, and want to keep it for a long time, hence my desire to change out the trans fluid at this time.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      Yes-Iíve read this in other threads. Iím stymied as to why my dealer was adamant on doing this for me, since I will pay for it. At this point, donít know if I should persist in asking them again to do it when I drop it off for diagnosing the studder issue tomorrow morning, and if they still refuse, perhaps I should call another dealer thatís local but about 25 minutes further away, or if I should seek out a local shop that specializes/qualified to work on Volvoís. I ordered the car new back in 2014; with intentions of holding onto it for 10-15 years, which Iíve done with previous cars. Iím a maintenance nut, and would like maintain this by my standards. Volvo has been quirky with the way they handled a few previous issues for me. I love this vehicle, and want to keep it for a long time, hence my desire to change out the trans fluid at this time.
      Sorry-this should have been: dealer is adamant about NOT changing out the transmission fluid. Dropped car off this morning-service adviser said he will check into it and let me know if they will do it. Said they don't do it because it causes problems, more likely than leaving it alone. I have trouble with the thinking in that. We'll see what they say. Thanks to all who have chimed in with thoughts.

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      There is a S/S block if temp is high but also if the ECM knows high load operation occurred withing a few minutes of the idling period where engine stop might occur. The drive-e 4 cylinder has electric coolant pump so the cooling system doesn't stop just because the engine stops. If any one of a few things happened within minutes of switching off ignition the coolant pump can operate at a slow speed for a time.

      Car manufacturers try to discourage what they consider unnecessary maintenance and trans flushing is one that was abused in the past. The flushing biz is expensive and often will be done with universal fluid with a container of brand specific additive to make it "correct" for the vehicle. I know of no car manufacturer that approves of this but the uni fluid and additive is cheaper and increases profit on the service. Some dealers used (and still do) a maintenance "menu" where they have some suggested services not listed by manufacturer. Some are really a good idea but flushing a trans is overkill when a drain a fill is all that is reasonably needed. The menu services raise the service price and owners will often complain that the car is expensive to own and every service costs more than a thousand $$$. I think your dealer must be under scrutiny for service sales.
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      Quote Originally Posted by cattlecar View Post
      There is a S/S block if temp is high but also if the ECM knows high load operation occurred withing a few minutes of the idling period where engine stop might occur. The drive-e 4 cylinder has electric coolant pump so the cooling system doesn't stop just because the engine stops. If any one of a few things happened within minutes of switching off ignition the coolant pump can operate at a slow speed for a time.

      Car manufacturers try to discourage what they consider unnecessary maintenance and trans flushing is one that was abused in the past. The flushing biz is expensive and often will be done with universal fluid with a container of brand specific additive to make it "correct" for the vehicle. I know of no car manufacturer that approves of this but the uni fluid and additive is cheaper and increases profit on the service. Some dealers used (and still do) a maintenance "menu" where they have some suggested services not listed by manufacturer. Some are really a good idea but flushing a trans is overkill when a drain a fill is all that is reasonably needed. The menu services raise the service price and owners will often complain that the car is expensive to own and every service costs more than a thousand $$$. I think your dealer must be under scrutiny for service sales.
      Thanks cattlecar. Regarding the transmission, I was only thinking of a drain and replace; not the flush. I am getting a number of conflicting views on this, so at this point I am hesitant to do anything, but still waiting to hear back from dealer on whether or not they will do it. I am old school, and always take the "better safe than sorry" approach. I have always had them replace oil and filter at the 5k rather than 10k for that reason, and I frankly don't understand the whole "lifetime sealed trans" thing. I've never replaced previous vehicles before putting on 200-250k miles, with nothing more than routine maintenance and typical replacement of wear parts. Never any "catastrophic" issue. If an engine requires regular oil and filter changes, how is this different with transmissions? Still have moving parts subjected to friction and heat, so my conventional thinking is to drain and replace ATF at regular intervals. I'm frankly shocked at the pushback I'm experiencing. With a perfectly fine running vehicle, I certainly don't want to do anything to screw it up, especially when I'm only trying to be proactive to keep the car running trouble free for as long as I own it.

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      To drain/flush, or not to, is perhaps the most controversial issue I've seen on this site. There are one or two certified Volvo techs on here. Perhaps we could prevail upon one of them for a definitive opinion?
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      Quote Originally Posted by SCwires View Post
      To drain/flush, or not to, is perhaps the most controversial issue I've seen on this site. There are one or two certified Volvo techs on here. Perhaps we could prevail upon one of them for a definitive opinion?
      Thanks. That would be great to hear from a certified tech. Iím waiting word on update on my car, probably wonít hear anything today. Service advisor said he would try to get me a price, if they would agree to do it, but sounded fully doubtful that he would be able t do the drain and flush per my request. After making a couple calls to independents who specialize in European cars, including Volvo, Iím considering dropping the idea, as the independents said same thing Volvo is telling me, and refused to even consider doing the job, stating it could create a problem that I donít have. Will only address it if there is a leak, or malfunction. I guess itís best to leave well enough alone, and wait to hear what diagnostic tests find on the stutter, stumble, brief jerking I was getting at low speeds while accelerating. Maybe-hopefully this whole experience was caused by bad gas I got on a recent return long trip back home. Refilled with Sunoco 93 about 90 miles ago, and problem seems to be reducing/occurring less frequently as time and miles go by.

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      I am not a certified tech, but the tech at my dealer strongly recommended draining/flushing the transmission fluid on my '11 at around 40,000 miles. He is very good at what he does and I trust his opinion. And it was, by that time, black as night.

      I also am a big believer in preventative maintenance and having a "lifetime" fluid just doesn't seem right to me. I also change the engine oil at around 5,000 miles rather than 10,000 for the same reason; 10,000 miles just seems like too much, imho, even with synthetic.

      I suppose if you only plan on keeping your vehicles for a few years then sure, why go through the expense of fluid changes that don't NEED to be done. But I typically keep mine for 15-20 years and drive them hard. So I change all of the fluids that I can.

      I will be draining/flushing the transmission fluid only '16 at around 40,000 miles as well.
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      Quote Originally Posted by BLUKTY2 View Post
      I am not a certified tech, but the tech at my dealer strongly recommended draining/flushing the transmission fluid on my '11 at around 40,000 miles. He is very good at what he does and I trust his opinion. And it was, by that time, black as night.

      I also am a big believer in preventative maintenance and having a "lifetime" fluid just doesn't seem right to me. I also change the engine oil at around 5,000 miles rather than 10,000 for the same reason; 10,000 miles just seems like too much, imho, even with synthetic.

      I suppose if you only plan on keeping your vehicles for a few years then sure, why go through the expense of fluid changes that don't NEED to be done. But I typically keep mine for 15-20 years and drive them hard. So I change all of the fluids that I can.

      I will be draining/flushing the transmission fluid only '16 at around 40,000 miles as well.
      Iím in total agreement with you. Iíve always done fluid changes and other factory maintenance twice as frequent as factory recommendation. I also hold onto my cars for on avg 13 years/225k miles and every car I replaced was still in good condition and running order, and a reliable vehicle to whoever ended up with it. The quagmire here is that nobody will do the drain/replace for me on this vehicle, just turning 49k miles. I thought this would be the time to be proactive, but itís becoming a real headache. Picking up my car from dealer tomorrow morning; they didnít find any codes or issues and regarding a price to change ATF, told me ďyou donít want to do thatĒ. I received similar response from two independent import car repair service centers. I like and trust my dealer service, and never take it anywhere else for maintenance. Iíve never had any dealer service department refuse to perform a requested service that I would pay for.p, until now, and itís not just this dealer. So, tomorrow I pick up my car and drive off into the unknown. At this point, Iím afraid to even let someone do it, even if I find someone who will, as I donít want any unqualified or any inexperienced tech doing work on my car, especially since all I keep hearing is donít need it, and if I have it done, I could end up with problems that were not present prior to theĒproactiveĒ work request. The whole situation has turned into a futile attempt to do something I thought would be a routine maintenance effort to preserve the life of the vehicle. I never thought it would be so complicated.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      Iím in total agreement with you. Iíve always done fluid changes and other factory maintenance twice as frequent as factory recommendation. I also hold onto my cars for on avg 13 years/225k miles and every car I replaced was still in good condition and running order, and a reliable vehicle to whoever ended up with it. The quagmire here is that nobody will do the drain/replace for me on this vehicle, just turning 49k miles. I thought this would be the time to be proactive, but itís becoming a real headache. Picking up my car from dealer tomorrow morning; they didnít find any codes or issues and regarding a price to change ATF, told me ďyou donít want to do thatĒ. I received similar response from two independent import car repair service centers. I like and trust my dealer service, and never take it anywhere else for maintenance. Iíve never had any dealer service department refuse to perform a requested service that I would pay for.p, until now, and itís not just this dealer. So, tomorrow I pick up my car and drive off into the unknown. At this point, Iím afraid to even let someone do it, even if I find someone who will, as I donít want any unqualified or any inexperienced tech doing work on my car, especially since all I keep hearing is donít need it, and if I have it done, I could end up with problems that were not present prior to theĒproactiveĒ work request. The whole situation has turned into a futile attempt to do something I thought would be a routine maintenance effort to preserve the life of the vehicle. I never thought it would be so complicated.
      What they mean is "WE don't want to do that." If they don't touch it, they can't be held liable if you decide to come in in 6 months complaining about any kind of shifting issue. At your mileage, a drain and fill would almost certainly not hurt anything. Regular fluid services will definitely prolong the life of your vehicle. The problem is, the dealers make money when you trade in and buy a new vehicle. It may not be a primary driving factor in their decision making (subconscious maybe), but what is in your best interest (keeping a car for 12+ years and over 200k miles) is NOT in their best interest. Always keep that in mind.

      There is a lot more profit and a whole lot less risk involved (for the dealership) in replacing a whole transmission at 120k miles after the vehicle is out of warranty, than changing the fluid every 40k miles.

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      I am ASE Master plus L1 and L3 certified. I have worked on automobiles or trained automotive technicians for 4 plus decades. I do not know one tech that doesn't service their own transmission on any car they intend to own long term. I also know of few car manufacturers that have recommended intervals for doing this. The pressures to make vehicles less costly to maintain are real for manufacturers. Ownership costs and environmental damage are reasons for this and the lengthened oil service intervals. I do not know of any tech that does 10K oil service intervals with few exceptions (Amsoil dealers...) for that matter.

      I drain and refill unless there is a reason to flush. The reason to flush is not that the fluid looks bad on a white plastic plate with depressions on it to hold your sampled fluid and a small amount of new fluid. Flushing is done if motor oil was put in by accident (or ignorance) or there was some other event that would have contaminated the fluid. ATF gets dark in any trans that uses torque converter clutch slip to cover up bad effects of higher stall speed torque converter. The reasons you change fluid is that the debris too fine to be caught by filtration is not healthy for duty cycled solenoids used for fluid pressure regulation and shifting and the additives in fluid degrade with time and use. Most every manufacturer has changing fluid as a remedy for shifting concerns or torque converter clutch chatter. They have "check condition of fluid and change if there is evidence of debris".
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      Quote Originally Posted by cattlecar View Post
      I am ASE Master plus L1 and L3 certified. I have worked on automobiles or trained automotive technicians for 4 plus decades. I do not know one tech that doesn't service their own transmission on any car they intend to own long term. I also know of few car manufacturers that have recommended intervals for doing this. The pressures to make vehicles less costly to maintain are real for manufacturers. Ownership costs and environmental damage are reasons for this and the lengthened oil service intervals. I do not know of any tech that does 10K oil service intervals with few exceptions (Amsoil dealers...) for that matter.

      I drain and refill unless there is a reason to flush. The reason to flush is not that the fluid looks bad on a white plastic plate with depressions on it to hold your sampled fluid and a small amount of new fluid. Flushing is done if motor oil was put in by accident (or ignorance) or there was some other event that would have contaminated the fluid. ATF gets dark in any trans that uses torque converter clutch slip to cover up bad effects of higher stall speed torque converter. The reasons you change fluid is that the debris too fine to be caught by filtration is not healthy for duty cycled solenoids used for fluid pressure regulation and shifting and the additives in fluid degrade with time and use. Most every manufacturer has changing fluid as a remedy for shifting concerns or torque converter clutch chatter. They have "check condition of fluid and change if there is evidence of debris".
      Thanks for your detailed response. My dealer service writer said tech found no codes, and could not replicate the condition on test drive. They told me it could be the contaminated gas situation and to run out the tank as much as possible and refuel and observe. I picked up the car yesterday morning and it seemed fine, minor shudder/chatter but not as bad. However, last night I had to take a 60 mile round trip and started noticing it on the way to destination, and it was more severe and noticeable on return trip. It seems to happen most frequently when accelerating from a stop, anywhere between 15-40 mph. Same thing if reducing speed to make a turn, and accelerating back up to speed. It feels like a shudder or chatter, similar to stick shift shudder if going into higher gear too early. That is my best explanation. My service writer DID say he would talk to the tech about a drain and refill service when I return for my 5K oil & filter change in about 5 weeks. I will be leaving on a 2k mike long trip in 10 days, and will be trying my best to see how I can replicate the problem ďon demandĒ so I can demonstrate to tech on a test drive. The challenge being, it is intermittent and I am not sure I will be able to force the condition at will. I should note, I am a very light footed driver, conservative and smooth, rather than aggressive. I appreciate your detailed response and if you could provide any suggestions on what my next steps should be, Iíd be grateful. Thanks to you and all who have chimed in here.

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      I just got my 2016 awd 5cyl back from the dealer today, 50k miles. They called me and told me that the trans fluid was getting dirty and recommended changing it. $520 was the quote for the fluid change. Have not looked at trans plug to see if it was removed.
      Its interesting that your dealer wont touch the fluid and mine offered to get it done without me asking for it.
      Unless the difference is drive-e 4cyl vs the older 5 cyl drive system.
      Last edited by FR_XC60; 01-27-2020 at 09:30 PM.

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      Quote Originally Posted by FR_XC60 View Post
      I just got my 2016 awd 5cyl back from the dealer today, 50k miles. They called me and told me that the trans fluid was getting dirty and recommended changing it. $520 was the quote for the fluid change. Have not looked at trans plug to see if it was removed.
      Its interesting that your dealer wont touch the fluid and mine offered to get it done without me asking for it.
      Unless the difference is drive-e 4cyl vs the older 5 cyl drive system.
      That is interesting. I can only assume the difference IS the 4 cylinder drive-e. I was told by service advisor that Volvo has been using the sealed automatic transmissions for several years, and doesnít recall ever doing a drain and fill atf service on any vehicles since those transmissions were introduced. Of course I am skeptical but want to wait for them to get back to me about asking the tech about performing the drain and fill for me. I will follow up Thursday if I donít hear from them tomorrow. In the meantime my car is still shifting weird, intermittent stutter, or bucking, while accelerating after slow down to make a turn, happens around 30-40 mph sometimes a hard shift too. None of this was present until a couple weeks ago. Iím hoping I can get it straightened out soon. Thanks for sharing your experience and to everyone offering ideas here.

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      It's probably more a matter of two dealerships with different service policies, nothing more nothing less.

      The one that doesn't want to touch the transmission most likely had a case where they mistakenly flushed the fluid in a high mile transmission (which is the wrong thing to do) and it failed shortly thereafter and they had to eat some of the cost to fix it, so no more transmission fluid changes at that store. Volvo's maintenance schedule further supports that position.
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      Wayne that could be. Got recommendations for tires as well.

      It is also possible Volvo figured out how make the trans last. As an example my commuter car is a Yaris. There is no trans service interval on this car. I have 145k miles on it and it shifts fine. At 135k I noticed some shifting wierdness but its minimal and I notice it because I have driven the car for 130k miles by then. I drive the car like I stole it because its fun to drive. My research shows that some folks drain and fill a quart or two around 100k miles but there is no difference after, dont remember if old fluid color is dirty. Some folks drive the Yaris for 250k miles and trans is still fine. So yes it could be Volvo thinks they figured it out.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      It's probably more a matter of two dealerships with different service policies, nothing more nothing less.

      The one that doesn't want to touch the transmission most likely had a case where they mistakenly flushed the fluid in a high mile transmission (which is the wrong thing to do) and it failed shortly thereafter and they had to eat some of the cost to fix it, so no more transmission fluid changes at that store. Volvo's maintenance schedule further supports that position.
      Thanks Wayne T5. Thatís the way Iím understanding it. If you donít mind me asking, what would you do in this situation? My plans were to hold onto this car for at least 200k with my OCD preventative maintenance frequency , same as previous long term vehicles.
      Iím not sure now if I should pursue this further-if my dealer sticks to their no need to drain & fill, should I ask another dealer? Iím still hoping another fill up with top tier gas will return my car to ďnormal feelĒ, since condition developed after a longer trip with 4 fill ups with gas not listed as ďtop tierĒ. Iím still hoping that itís a crappy fuel issue, as it appears to get better, but then pops up intermittently just when I think itís back to normal. Even if that proves to be the case, I would still prefer routine refreshment of transmission fluid just because I thought it would be a good thing to do over the long run.

    27. #25
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      Thanks FR_XC60. If it ends up that I canít get the drain & fill done anywhere, I can only hope youíre correct in that Volvo has figured it out. With everything Iíve learned here on previous posts, I am nervous about even doing drain and refill if they agree to do it; sounds like potential to cause more trouble than itís worth. Never thought it would be this complicated but car technology has changed so much recently, and even more the last 5 years of ownership on my 2015.5 model year. My previous vehicle was 2002 and a lot had changed before getting into the Volvo. Iíve learned a lot from this post so thanks to everyone who has contributed here.

    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      Thanks Wayne T5. Thatís the way Iím understanding it. If you donít mind me asking, what would you do in this situation? My plans were to hold onto this car for at least 200k with my OCD preventative maintenance frequency , same as previous long term vehicles.
      Iím not sure now if I should pursue this further-if my dealer sticks to their no need to drain & fill, should I ask another dealer? Iím still hoping another fill up with top tier gas will return my car to ďnormal feelĒ, since condition developed after a longer trip with 4 fill ups with gas not listed as ďtop tierĒ. Iím still hoping that itís a crappy fuel issue, as it appears to get better, but then pops up intermittently just when I think itís back to normal. Even if that proves to be the case, I would still prefer routine refreshment of transmission fluid just because I thought it would be a good thing to do over the long run.
      You could call around to a couple other dealerships to see if they would change the ATF or you could go the independent route and look for a mechanic in your area who is familiar with Volvo's and ask them. In any event, I don't think the ATF is the reason for the driveability problem you were dealing with. I think that was more fuel related or perhaps the vehicle is out of tune.

      I have a '15.5 XC60 as well and it just crossed 50k miles. I was thinking I'd start thinking about changing the ATF when the car reaches 60k miles - that's just my number, some folks would do it at 40k miles (or any interval they desire).
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
      Present: '95 854 T-5R, '06 XC70, '15 XC70 T6, '15.5 XC60 T6, '16 V60 P*

    29. #27
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      Thanks Wayne T5. Thatís the way Iím understanding it. If you donít mind me asking, what would you do in this situation? My plans were to hold onto this car for at least 200k with my OCD preventative maintenance frequency , same as previous long term vehicles.
      Iím not sure now if I should pursue this further-if my dealer sticks to their no need to drain & fill, should I ask another dealer? Iím still hoping another fill up with top tier gas will return my car to ďnormal feelĒ, since condition developed after a longer trip with 4 fill ups with gas not listed as ďtop tierĒ. Iím still hoping that itís a crappy fuel issue, as it appears to get better, but then pops up intermittently just when I think itís back to normal. Even if that proves to be the case, I would still prefer routine refreshment of transmission fluid just because I thought it would be a good thing to do over the long run.
      I'm pretty much in agreement with Wanye T5. It's hard to tell if a trans fluid drain and fill would fix your problem. In your original description you did not explicitly say the shudder/jerk only occurs during gear changes. It could just as easily be combustion related.

      I would, however, service the trans fluid at regular intervals if I were you. Whatever interval you are comfortable with. The dealer can say it is "good for life," but unless they are willing to stand behind that claim with a lifetime warranty on the transmission (or at least define the lifetime expectancy in terms of years/miles and warranty it for that period), those words are meaningless.

    30. #28
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      Thanks for the feedback. Do you do your own work or take to dealer or independent service center for work? Iíll be following up with dealer on the ATF service, as well as a tune-up check in the next few weeks. Car runs fine, but intermittently rough, jerky, or hard shifts accelerating after taking turn, slowing down then speeding up, most noticeable in the 25-40MPH range. Smooth sailing on highway. Just turned 49k today, but heading out next weekend for round trip which will probably be about 1750-2000 miles when I return. Will be going to dealer for oil and filter changthen, and possibly get the atf change as well, depending what dealer says. Will call tomorrow and post any news as things develop. Thanks again for your input.

    31. #29
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      I do my own work. Only thing I take it in for is tires/alignments since that is a case where having the right (expensive) equipment is necessary to get the job done right.

    32. #30
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      Quote Originally Posted by budleach View Post
      I do my own work. Only thing I take it in for is tires/alignments since that is a case where having the right (expensive) equipment is necessary to get the job done right.
      Thanks for your reply. I wish I could do my own work. Limited on skill-set-wouldn't trust myself working on the newer cars today, plus I don't have the facilities to do so.

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      Well, I just received a quote from a highly rated independent shop specializing in the big name high end imports to drain and fill the ATF for $175 which seems obviously too good to be true. If I donít get a response from the dealer by end of day, I will call them tomorrow morning and see what they say. If I canít get a dealer in my area to do the work, Iíll follow up with the Indy and ask him for details on what they are doing for $175...seems way too low compared to the $520 dealer estimate in the earlier post by FR-XC60

    34. #32
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      Well, I just received a quote from a highly rated independent shop specializing in the big name high end imports to drain and fill the ATF for $175 which seems obviously too good to be true. If I donít get a response from the dealer by end of day, I will call them tomorrow morning and see what they say. If I canít get a dealer in my area to do the work, Iíll follow up with the Indy and ask him for details on what they are doing for $175...seems way too low compared to the $520 dealer estimate in the earlier post by FR-XC60
      The $520 quote was probably a total fluid flush, although that's still high IMHO but so much of it depends on prevailing labor rates. With a flush the tech typically hooks it up to a machine that will change out pretty much all of the fluid in the transmission, so probably 12-14 qts of ATF.

      The $175 that you were quoted is probably more of a drain and fill where the tech drains what is in the pan and replaces around 4-5 qts, so a lot less fluid so a lot cheaper. If it's something you want to do then it sounds like you found a good shop. If you don't do a lot of work yourself on your car it's good to establish a relationship with a mechanic and something pretty easy like this is a good first step.

      I do pretty much all of my own work at this point - with four Volvo's to maintain and a couple other cars it's the only way that it's somewhat affordable. I also enjoy doing it so there's that.
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
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    35. #33
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      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      The $520 quote was probably a total fluid flush, although that's still high IMHO but so much of it depends on prevailing labor rates. With a flush the tech typically hooks it up to a machine that will change out pretty much all of the fluid in the transmission, so probably 12-14 qts of ATF.

      The $175 that you were quoted is probably more of a drain and fill where the tech drains what is in the pan and replaces around 4-5 qts, so a lot less fluid so a lot cheaper. If it's something you want to do then it sounds like you found a good shop. If you don't do a lot of work yourself on your car it's good to establish a relationship with a mechanic and something pretty easy like this is a good first step.

      I do pretty much all of my own work at this point - with four Volvo's to maintain and a couple other cars it's the only way that it's somewhat affordable. I also enjoy doing it so there's that.
      Thank you for your comments. I did specify to both dealer service and independent that I only wanted to drain and refill, not a flush. I have heard that the flush could cause trouble, and with only 49k miles, changing out ATF in regular intervals would be good for long term. I should point out I am very pleased with my dealer and services they have done. I had the Volvo safe and secure, 5 years or 50k miles bumper to bumper except tires, so itís been basically zero $ to date. 5 yrs was up (August2019). My intention is to dealer service the car. I know I pay more for it, but I like having the 100% dealer service history for backup in the event of a future issue, I get free loaner, and right or wrong, I donít feel as comfortable going to an independent. I worry about them not being up to date with current diagnostic devices and software. If my dealer wonít perform the service for me, I will pursue it with the independent. Do you know if they need to do multiple fills to get completely fresh ATF? Does car have to be run and shifted at certain temperature, will it need reprogramming, or other resets? Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for the help youíve provided on this thread.

    36. #34
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      Wayne T5 makes a good point. If you're not worried about maintaining a factory warranty and you are relying on a mechanic to do most of your maintenance, I highly recommend finding a reputable (do your research) independent shop that specializes in your make of vehicle and establishing a good relationship. An independent shop's top priorities are keeping the customer happy so they get return business, and keeping your car running as long as possible since that is how they make money. Plus they are generally passionate about the brand since they made a conscious decision to start a business based around it, which means they usually want to do the right thing for the car.

      Of course dealers want to keep their customers happy to get repeat business too, but unless you are type that trades out cars every couple years their business model does not align with your best interests.

      I hate to come across like I believe all dealers are not to be trusted but they really have no financial incentive to keep a car running long after it's warranty has run out. As long as it remains low maintenance and trouble free long enough for their golden customers to get their use out of it and trade up, they have made their money... twice.

      Not bashing dealer mechanics. I'm sure they are some of the best in the business and i'm sure they want to do right by the cars as well, but there is a buffer layer of management between the customer and the actual mechanic doing the work. And those managers are usually sales and profit driven. Some people prefer to only deal with the clean customer service professional at the front desk who is polite and smiley. Their salary is part of the reason the dealer hourly rate is so high. Personally, I prefer to cut out the middle man and talk directly to the mechanic (expert). That is usually the experience you get at an indy shop.

      ::EDIT:: Just saw your last post, and I understand why you prefer the dealer, many people do. I guess the indy shop is more of the "mechanic's mechanic." For when a mechanical type person has the ability to do the job themselves, but is is too old or doesn't have the patience anymore. I just hate all the fluff and fake smiles, and I hate knowing that i'm paying for it. Also, I'm generally not concerned about having a good dealer service history, since I usually keep my cars so long that it doesn't really add much to the resale value.
      Last edited by budleach; 01-30-2020 at 08:12 PM.

    37. #35
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lexillent1 View Post
      Do you know if they need to do multiple fills to get completely fresh ATF? Does car have to be run and shifted at certain temperature, will it need reprogramming, or other resets? Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.
      If the goal is to change out all of the fluid then you'd be better off finding a shop with a flush machine (or if not some other way such as the gibbons or modified gibbons method) that would change out all of the fluid. IMO I don't think you need to do that but some of that depends on the condition of the fluid. Multiple drain and fills will help but you're still mixing new fluid with old so it will never be completely changed, but that may be fine.

      The really important part is to make sure that whatever shop you choose uses the correct ATF for your vehicle and transmission. Check the spec in your owners manual and make sure the shop uses that fluid.

      Pretty sure there is a fluid counter reset that would probably be needed with a total fluid flush (I don't know how an indie shop would be able to do that) but you may be okay without it with just a drain and fill.
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
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