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Questions on 2015.5 XC60

5K views 50 replies 11 participants last post by  Lexillent1 
#1 ·
I have the 2015.5 T6 Drive-E FWD XC60. Closing in on 50K trouble free miles. I’ve used the start/stop since taking delivery, mostly drive in the “eco” mode, especially on highway. My question is regarding the turbo cool down mentioned in the manual; if start/stop is activated, the engine obviously shuts off when parking without any cool down idling? Is this a problem, detrimental to turbo? Is it a reason to deactivate the start/stop every time I use the car? I know I’m in minority, but I got used to and like the added start/stop feature. I’ve heard conflicting arguments as to why I should and should not use the start/stop feature. Any thoughts are appreciated. Also, vehicle has recently started to stutter, jerk at lower speed, after coming to a stop or turn. When accelerating it starts to the stutter at about 10-15mph around 1500-1700RPM. Almost feels like a manual transmission in a higher gear too early. Any thoughts? It is going into dealer for a check on Wednesday. I’m thinking of asking them to change transmission fluid, even if that’s not the cause, but thought at 50k miles, it would be a good p/m move. Any thoughts and suggestions on anything here would be most appreciated. Thanks
 
#2 · (Edited)
I have the 2015.5 T6 Drive-E FWD XC60. Closing in on 50K trouble free miles. I've used the start/stop since taking delivery, mostly drive in the "eco" mode, especially on highway. My question is regarding the turbo cool down mentioned in the manual; if start/stop is activated, the engine obviously shuts off when parking without any cool down idling? Is this a problem, detrimental to turbo? Is it a reason to deactivate the start/stop every time I use the car? I know I'm in minority, but I got used to and like the added start/stop feature. I've heard conflicting arguments as to why I should and should not use the start/stop feature. Any thoughts are appreciated. Also, vehicle has recently started to stutter, jerk at lower speed, after coming to a stop or turn. When accelerating it starts to the stutter at about 10-15mph around 1500-1700RPM. Almost feels like a manual transmission in a higher gear too early. Any thoughts? It is going into dealer for a check on Wednesday. I'm thinking of asking them to change transmission fluid, even if that's not the cause, but thought at 50k miles, it would be a good p/m move. Any thoughts and suggestions on anything here would be most appreciated. Thanks
I'm not sure how Volvo manages their stop start system - I can tell you the vehicle line I work on has a bunch of parameters which can prevent stop start from functioning. For instance, coolant temp or battery voltage. My assumption is the logic is able to prevent stop start if oil/ coolant temp is too high.

Moreover, this vehicle has an electric water pump. So, likely coolant is still flowing through the turbo cartridge pulling heat out of it even when the engine isn't running.

Finally, unless your pushing the car to it's limits really heat soaking it, I wouldn't give it a second thought. Modern turbochargers are water-cooled and can moderate temperature much better than the solely oil cooled turbos of the past.

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#4 ·
If it's stuttering at low rpms I'm wondering if there is a fuel problem or perhaps the car is out of tune. Have the spark plugs been changed on the car yet? I don't if that's supposed to be done at 60k maybe so do it a little early? From what you're describing it doesn't sound like the transmission.

Regarding start/stop, I'd probably just let the car do it's thing.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for your input. Plugs are original, and to be changed at 60k service but maybe I will ask them to change tomorrow when it’s in for diagnosis. Also considering request to change transmission fluid whether or not that’s the issue. I see they will only do that on vehicles pulling trailers, extreme use, but I’m old school on preventative maintenance and hold onto cars 12-15 years. I’ve had good success in doing pm at the more frequent intervals. Any thoughts on trans fluid change at 50k? I hope they don’t give me pushback when I ask them to change it, but if there’s a good reason not to, I’d like to hear from anybody out there. Thanks
 
#6 ·
Thanks for your input. Plugs are original, and to be changed at 60k service but maybe I will ask them to change tomorrow when it's in for diagnosis. Also considering request to change transmission fluid whether or not that's the issue. I see they will only do that on vehicles pulling trailers, extreme use, but I'm old school on preventative maintenance and hold onto cars 12-15 years. I've had good success in doing pm at the more frequent intervals. Any thoughts on trans fluid change at 50k? I hope they don't give me pushback when I ask them to change it, but if there's a good reason not to, I'd like to hear from anybody out there. Thanks
I am also an advocate of changing fluids regularly and 50k is a good interval to do so.

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#11 ·
There is a S/S block if temp is high but also if the ECM knows high load operation occurred withing a few minutes of the idling period where engine stop might occur. The drive-e 4 cylinder has electric coolant pump so the cooling system doesn't stop just because the engine stops. If any one of a few things happened within minutes of switching off ignition the coolant pump can operate at a slow speed for a time.

Car manufacturers try to discourage what they consider unnecessary maintenance and trans flushing is one that was abused in the past. The flushing biz is expensive and often will be done with universal fluid with a container of brand specific additive to make it "correct" for the vehicle. I know of no car manufacturer that approves of this but the uni fluid and additive is cheaper and increases profit on the service. Some dealers used (and still do) a maintenance "menu" where they have some suggested services not listed by manufacturer. Some are really a good idea but flushing a trans is overkill when a drain a fill is all that is reasonably needed. The menu services raise the service price and owners will often complain that the car is expensive to own and every service costs more than a thousand $$$. I think your dealer must be under scrutiny for service sales.
 
#12 ·
There is a S/S block if temp is high but also if the ECM knows high load operation occurred withing a few minutes of the idling period where engine stop might occur. The drive-e 4 cylinder has electric coolant pump so the cooling system doesn't stop just because the engine stops. If any one of a few things happened within minutes of switching off ignition the coolant pump can operate at a slow speed for a time.

Car manufacturers try to discourage what they consider unnecessary maintenance and trans flushing is one that was abused in the past. The flushing biz is expensive and often will be done with universal fluid with a container of brand specific additive to make it "correct" for the vehicle. I know of no car manufacturer that approves of this but the uni fluid and additive is cheaper and increases profit on the service. Some dealers used (and still do) a maintenance "menu" where they have some suggested services not listed by manufacturer. Some are really a good idea but flushing a trans is overkill when a drain a fill is all that is reasonably needed. The menu services raise the service price and owners will often complain that the car is expensive to own and every service costs more than a thousand $$$. I think your dealer must be under scrutiny for service sales.
Thanks cattlecar. Regarding the transmission, I was only thinking of a drain and replace; not the flush. I am getting a number of conflicting views on this, so at this point I am hesitant to do anything, but still waiting to hear back from dealer on whether or not they will do it. I am old school, and always take the "better safe than sorry" approach. I have always had them replace oil and filter at the 5k rather than 10k for that reason, and I frankly don't understand the whole "lifetime sealed trans" thing. I've never replaced previous vehicles before putting on 200-250k miles, with nothing more than routine maintenance and typical replacement of wear parts. Never any "catastrophic" issue. If an engine requires regular oil and filter changes, how is this different with transmissions? Still have moving parts subjected to friction and heat, so my conventional thinking is to drain and replace ATF at regular intervals. I'm frankly shocked at the pushback I'm experiencing. With a perfectly fine running vehicle, I certainly don't want to do anything to screw it up, especially when I'm only trying to be proactive to keep the car running trouble free for as long as I own it.
 
#14 ·
Thanks. That would be great to hear from a certified tech. I'm waiting word on update on my car, probably won't hear anything today. Service advisor said he would try to get me a price, if they would agree to do it, but sounded fully doubtful that he would be able t do the drain and flush per my request. After making a couple calls to independents who specialize in European cars, including Volvo, I'm considering dropping the idea, as the independents said same thing Volvo is telling me, and refused to even consider doing the job, stating it could create a problem that I don't have. Will only address it if there is a leak, or malfunction. I guess it's best to leave well enough alone, and wait to hear what diagnostic tests find on the stutter, stumble, brief jerking I was getting at low speeds while accelerating. Maybe-hopefully this whole experience was caused by bad gas I got on a recent return long trip back home. Refilled with Sunoco 93 about 90 miles ago, and problem seems to be reducing/occurring less frequently as time and miles go by.
 
#15 ·
I am not a certified tech, but the tech at my dealer strongly recommended draining/flushing the transmission fluid on my '11 at around 40,000 miles. He is very good at what he does and I trust his opinion. And it was, by that time, black as night.

I also am a big believer in preventative maintenance and having a "lifetime" fluid just doesn't seem right to me. I also change the engine oil at around 5,000 miles rather than 10,000 for the same reason; 10,000 miles just seems like too much, imho, even with synthetic.

I suppose if you only plan on keeping your vehicles for a few years then sure, why go through the expense of fluid changes that don't NEED to be done. But I typically keep mine for 15-20 years and drive them hard. So I change all of the fluids that I can.

I will be draining/flushing the transmission fluid only '16 at around 40,000 miles as well.
 
#16 ·
I am not a certified tech, but the tech at my dealer strongly recommended draining/flushing the transmission fluid on my '11 at around 40,000 miles. He is very good at what he does and I trust his opinion. And it was, by that time, black as night.

I also am a big believer in preventative maintenance and having a "lifetime" fluid just doesn't seem right to me. I also change the engine oil at around 5,000 miles rather than 10,000 for the same reason; 10,000 miles just seems like too much, imho, even with synthetic.

I suppose if you only plan on keeping your vehicles for a few years then sure, why go through the expense of fluid changes that don't NEED to be done. But I typically keep mine for 15-20 years and drive them hard. So I change all of the fluids that I can.

I will be draining/flushing the transmission fluid only '16 at around 40,000 miles as well.
I'm in total agreement with you. I've always done fluid changes and other factory maintenance twice as frequent as factory recommendation. I also hold onto my cars for on avg 13 years/225k miles and every car I replaced was still in good condition and running order, and a reliable vehicle to whoever ended up with it. The quagmire here is that nobody will do the drain/replace for me on this vehicle, just turning 49k miles. I thought this would be the time to be proactive, but it's becoming a real headache. Picking up my car from dealer tomorrow morning; they didn't find any codes or issues and regarding a price to change ATF, told me "you don't want to do that". I received similar response from two independent import car repair service centers. I like and trust my dealer service, and never take it anywhere else for maintenance. I've never had any dealer service department refuse to perform a requested service that I would pay for.p, until now, and it's not just this dealer. So, tomorrow I pick up my car and drive off into the unknown. At this point, I'm afraid to even let someone do it, even if I find someone who will, as I don't want any unqualified or any inexperienced tech doing work on my car, especially since all I keep hearing is don't need it, and if I have it done, I could end up with problems that were not present prior to the"proactive" work request. The whole situation has turned into a futile attempt to do something I thought would be a routine maintenance effort to preserve the life of the vehicle. I never thought it would be so complicated.
 
#18 ·
I am ASE Master plus L1 and L3 certified. I have worked on automobiles or trained automotive technicians for 4 plus decades. I do not know one tech that doesn't service their own transmission on any car they intend to own long term. I also know of few car manufacturers that have recommended intervals for doing this. The pressures to make vehicles less costly to maintain are real for manufacturers. Ownership costs and environmental damage are reasons for this and the lengthened oil service intervals. I do not know of any tech that does 10K oil service intervals with few exceptions (Amsoil dealers...) for that matter.

I drain and refill unless there is a reason to flush. The reason to flush is not that the fluid looks bad on a white plastic plate with depressions on it to hold your sampled fluid and a small amount of new fluid. Flushing is done if motor oil was put in by accident (or ignorance) or there was some other event that would have contaminated the fluid. ATF gets dark in any trans that uses torque converter clutch slip to cover up bad effects of higher stall speed torque converter. The reasons you change fluid is that the debris too fine to be caught by filtration is not healthy for duty cycled solenoids used for fluid pressure regulation and shifting and the additives in fluid degrade with time and use. Most every manufacturer has changing fluid as a remedy for shifting concerns or torque converter clutch chatter. They have "check condition of fluid and change if there is evidence of debris".
 
#19 ·
Thanks for your detailed response. My dealer service writer said tech found no codes, and could not replicate the condition on test drive. They told me it could be the contaminated gas situation and to run out the tank as much as possible and refuel and observe. I picked up the car yesterday morning and it seemed fine, minor shudder/chatter but not as bad. However, last night I had to take a 60 mile round trip and started noticing it on the way to destination, and it was more severe and noticeable on return trip. It seems to happen most frequently when accelerating from a stop, anywhere between 15-40 mph. Same thing if reducing speed to make a turn, and accelerating back up to speed. It feels like a shudder or chatter, similar to stick shift shudder if going into higher gear too early. That is my best explanation. My service writer DID say he would talk to the tech about a drain and refill service when I return for my 5K oil & filter change in about 5 weeks. I will be leaving on a 2k mike long trip in 10 days, and will be trying my best to see how I can replicate the problem "on demand" so I can demonstrate to tech on a test drive. The challenge being, it is intermittent and I am not sure I will be able to force the condition at will. I should note, I am a very light footed driver, conservative and smooth, rather than aggressive. I appreciate your detailed response and if you could provide any suggestions on what my next steps should be, I'd be grateful. Thanks to you and all who have chimed in here.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I just got my 2016 awd 5cyl back from the dealer today, 50k miles. They called me and told me that the trans fluid was getting dirty and recommended changing it. $520 was the quote for the fluid change. Have not looked at trans plug to see if it was removed.
Its interesting that your dealer wont touch the fluid and mine offered to get it done without me asking for it.
Unless the difference is drive-e 4cyl vs the older 5 cyl drive system.
 
#21 ·
That is interesting. I can only assume the difference IS the 4 cylinder drive-e. I was told by service advisor that Volvo has been using the sealed automatic transmissions for several years, and doesn't recall ever doing a drain and fill atf service on any vehicles since those transmissions were introduced. Of course I am skeptical but want to wait for them to get back to me about asking the tech about performing the drain and fill for me. I will follow up Thursday if I don't hear from them tomorrow. In the meantime my car is still shifting weird, intermittent stutter, or bucking, while accelerating after slow down to make a turn, happens around 30-40 mph sometimes a hard shift too. None of this was present until a couple weeks ago. I'm hoping I can get it straightened out soon. Thanks for sharing your experience and to everyone offering ideas here.
 
#22 · (Edited)
It's probably more a matter of two dealerships with different service policies, nothing more nothing less.

The one that doesn't want to touch the transmission most likely had a case where they mistakenly flushed the fluid in a high mile transmission (which is the wrong thing to do) and it failed shortly thereafter and they had to eat some of the cost to fix it, so no more transmission fluid changes at that store. Volvo's maintenance schedule further supports that position.
 
#24 ·
It's probably more a matter of two dealerships with different service policies, nothing more nothing less.

The one that doesn't want to touch the transmission most likely had a case where they mistakenly flushed the fluid in a high mile transmission (which is the wrong thing to do) and it failed shortly thereafter and they had to eat some of the cost to fix it, so no more transmission fluid changes at that store. Volvo's maintenance schedule further supports that position.
Thanks Wayne T5. That's the way I'm understanding it. If you don't mind me asking, what would you do in this situation? My plans were to hold onto this car for at least 200k with my OCD preventative maintenance frequency , same as previous long term vehicles.
I'm not sure now if I should pursue this further-if my dealer sticks to their no need to drain & fill, should I ask another dealer? I'm still hoping another fill up with top tier gas will return my car to "normal feel", since condition developed after a longer trip with 4 fill ups with gas not listed as "top tier". I'm still hoping that it's a crappy fuel issue, as it appears to get better, but then pops up intermittently just when I think it's back to normal. Even if that proves to be the case, I would still prefer routine refreshment of transmission fluid just because I thought it would be a good thing to do over the long run.
 
#23 ·
Wayne that could be. Got recommendations for tires as well.

It is also possible Volvo figured out how make the trans last. As an example my commuter car is a Yaris. There is no trans service interval on this car. I have 145k miles on it and it shifts fine. At 135k I noticed some shifting wierdness but its minimal and I notice it because I have driven the car for 130k miles by then. I drive the car like I stole it because its fun to drive. My research shows that some folks drain and fill a quart or two around 100k miles but there is no difference after, dont remember if old fluid color is dirty. Some folks drive the Yaris for 250k miles and trans is still fine. So yes it could be Volvo thinks they figured it out.
 
#25 ·
Thanks FR_XC60. If it ends up that I can’t get the drain & fill done anywhere, I can only hope you’re correct in that Volvo has figured it out. With everything I’ve learned here on previous posts, I am nervous about even doing drain and refill if they agree to do it; sounds like potential to cause more trouble than it’s worth. Never thought it would be this complicated but car technology has changed so much recently, and even more the last 5 years of ownership on my 2015.5 model year. My previous vehicle was 2002 and a lot had changed before getting into the Volvo. I’ve learned a lot from this post so thanks to everyone who has contributed here.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the feedback. Do you do your own work or take to dealer or independent service center for work? I’ll be following up with dealer on the ATF service, as well as a tune-up check in the next few weeks. Car runs fine, but intermittently rough, jerky, or hard shifts accelerating after taking turn, slowing down then speeding up, most noticeable in the 25-40MPH range. Smooth sailing on highway. Just turned 49k today, but heading out next weekend for round trip which will probably be about 1750-2000 miles when I return. Will be going to dealer for oil and filter changthen, and possibly get the atf change as well, depending what dealer says. Will call tomorrow and post any news as things develop. Thanks again for your input.
 
#31 ·
Well, I just received a quote from a highly rated independent shop specializing in the big name high end imports to drain and fill the ATF for $175 which seems obviously too good to be true. If I don’t get a response from the dealer by end of day, I will call them tomorrow morning and see what they say. If I can’t get a dealer in my area to do the work, I’ll follow up with the Indy and ask him for details on what they are doing for $175...seems way too low compared to the $520 dealer estimate in the earlier post by FR-XC60
 
#32 ·
Well, I just received a quote from a highly rated independent shop specializing in the big name high end imports to drain and fill the ATF for $175 which seems obviously too good to be true. If I don't get a response from the dealer by end of day, I will call them tomorrow morning and see what they say. If I can't get a dealer in my area to do the work, I'll follow up with the Indy and ask him for details on what they are doing for $175...seems way too low compared to the $520 dealer estimate in the earlier post by FR-XC60
The $520 quote was probably a total fluid flush, although that's still high IMHO but so much of it depends on prevailing labor rates. With a flush the tech typically hooks it up to a machine that will change out pretty much all of the fluid in the transmission, so probably 12-14 qts of ATF.

The $175 that you were quoted is probably more of a drain and fill where the tech drains what is in the pan and replaces around 4-5 qts, so a lot less fluid so a lot cheaper. If it's something you want to do then it sounds like you found a good shop. If you don't do a lot of work yourself on your car it's good to establish a relationship with a mechanic and something pretty easy like this is a good first step.

I do pretty much all of my own work at this point - with four Volvo's to maintain and a couple other cars it's the only way that it's somewhat affordable. I also enjoy doing it so there's that.
 
#33 ·
Thank you for your comments. I did specify to both dealer service and independent that I only wanted to drain and refill, not a flush. I have heard that the flush could cause trouble, and with only 49k miles, changing out ATF in regular intervals would be good for long term. I should point out I am very pleased with my dealer and services they have done. I had the Volvo safe and secure, 5 years or 50k miles bumper to bumper except tires, so it's been basically zero $ to date. 5 yrs was up (August2019). My intention is to dealer service the car. I know I pay more for it, but I like having the 100% dealer service history for backup in the event of a future issue, I get free loaner, and right or wrong, I don't feel as comfortable going to an independent. I worry about them not being up to date with current diagnostic devices and software. If my dealer won't perform the service for me, I will pursue it with the independent. Do you know if they need to do multiple fills to get completely fresh ATF? Does car have to be run and shifted at certain temperature, will it need reprogramming, or other resets? Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for the help you've provided on this thread.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Do you know if they need to do multiple fills to get completely fresh ATF? Does car have to be run and shifted at certain temperature, will it need reprogramming, or other resets? Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for the help you've provided on this thread.
With the drain and fill method, you will never get 100% fluid replacement. The torque converter holds onto a lot of fluid. Draining only removes the fluid in the sump. Usually ~half the total capacity, or less. So the method would be drain, fill, start the car and cycle through the P R N D and back. Doing so thoroughly mixes the old with the new fluid. So assuming half the total capacity can be drained from the sump, 1 drain/fill will get you ~50% new fluid, doing a second drain/fill cycle will get you to 75% new fluid, a third cycle will get you to 87.5%, and so on.

I think you have the 8 speed transmission since you have a drive E, in which case i'm not exactly sure the process, but generally the fluid level is set when it is in a certain temperature range (at least it is for the older 6 speeds attached to the 5 and 6 cylinder engines.) For the 6 speed box there is a counter that needs to be reset when changing the fluid, I assume it is similar with the 8 speed since they are both made by the same manufacturer (Aisin).
 
#34 · (Edited)
Wayne T5 makes a good point. If you're not worried about maintaining a factory warranty and you are relying on a mechanic to do most of your maintenance, I highly recommend finding a reputable (do your research) independent shop that specializes in your make of vehicle and establishing a good relationship. An independent shop's top priorities are keeping the customer happy so they get return business, and keeping your car running as long as possible since that is how they make money. Plus they are generally passionate about the brand since they made a conscious decision to start a business based around it, which means they usually want to do the right thing for the car.

Of course dealers want to keep their customers happy to get repeat business too, but unless you are type that trades out cars every couple years their business model does not align with your best interests.

I hate to come across like I believe all dealers are not to be trusted but they really have no financial incentive to keep a car running long after it's warranty has run out. As long as it remains low maintenance and trouble free long enough for their golden customers to get their use out of it and trade up, they have made their money... twice.

Not bashing dealer mechanics. I'm sure they are some of the best in the business and i'm sure they want to do right by the cars as well, but there is a buffer layer of management between the customer and the actual mechanic doing the work. And those managers are usually sales and profit driven. Some people prefer to only deal with the clean customer service professional at the front desk who is polite and smiley. Their salary is part of the reason the dealer hourly rate is so high. Personally, I prefer to cut out the middle man and talk directly to the mechanic (expert). That is usually the experience you get at an indy shop.

::EDIT:: Just saw your last post, and I understand why you prefer the dealer, many people do. I guess the indy shop is more of the "mechanic's mechanic." For when a mechanical type person has the ability to do the job themselves, but is is too old or doesn't have the patience anymore. I just hate all the fluff and fake smiles, and I hate knowing that i'm paying for it. Also, I'm generally not concerned about having a good dealer service history, since I usually keep my cars so long that it doesn't really add much to the resale value.
 
#36 ·
Thanks for weighing in on this. You've really provided me some food for thought, and I will be seriously considering the independent route. Your comments make a lot sense, and I agree on everything you pointed out regarding dealer service and operations. I will be researching the independent further, and perhaps take a trip to their shop as soon as I can get there. Might be well worth a trip to check out the operation and having a face to face discussion about my vehicle, questions and concerns. Thanks again
 
#39 ·
Thank you both, Wayne_T5 and budleach. This is very helpful information. I am in the process of checking out the independent shop to be sure they’re equipped with all of the latest resources; VIDA. Keeping my fingers crossed. Making the switch to a well qualified independent shop to take over the maintenance on my vehicle moving forward makes the most sense based on the feedback you have provided to me.
 
#40 ·
Our 2017 XC60 T6 is coming up to 40k miles.

I am going to get the trans fluid flushed out at the 40k mark. Local dealer will do a complete flush for $329.

I had them do it on my 07 S80 (6 speed box) and it did improve the shifting.
 
#41 ·
Our 2017 XC60 T6 is coming up to 40k miles.

I am going to get the trans fluid flushed out at the 40k mark. Local dealer will do a complete flush for $329.

I had them do it on my 07 S80 (6 speed box) and it did improve the shifting.
I should have my dealer call yours. I called today to see if they had answer and price on the ATF service. Told me they would get back to me next week. It's already been a week since they said they would let me know. I'm still in the process of finding an independent shop that has the VIDA subscription. If I do, I'll be heading there for the ATF service and all future scheduled maintenance.
 
#46 ·
Wow, thanks for following up with us. It's unfortunate that you had to get a new transmission but to have one that's guaranteed for the life of the car for $1k sounds like a decent compromise.
 
#47 ·
Thanks Wayne. They said it's a rebuilt transmission, can't get a factory "new" one, but lifetime warranty as long as I own it is perfectly reasonable to me. I guess I won't have to worry about the on-going debate on the ATF servicing.:). I have to extend kudos to my dealer. They really went the extra mile to get my problem resolved, even gave me a free loaner until my car is ready. It's a 2020 Inscription XC60. Nice, but I like my 2015.5 more. Maybe it's the familiar and comfortable thing. Looking forward to getting my car back.
 
#49 ·
No. Just told me the consensus is a drain and refill of the ATF wouldn't be a solution, and that I needed a new transmission. I plan on asking them for more details once the car is ready for me; hopefully this week. I am curious as well, and wonder if there's a known issue that is kept "secret ", but once the problem surfaces, Volvo offers some sort of action, in my case replacing the transmission. Pure speculation on my part. I will post any information I get from them. As I said, I am extremely satisfied with how the dealer has responded to this issue. I'm looking forward to getting my car back, and hopefully it will perform just like it was before the issue started.
 
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