Belt or chain? 2015 T6 R-Design
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    1. #1
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      Belt or chain? 2015 T6 R-Design

      Dumb question, but I cannot seem to find a definitive answer, does the I6 in the V60 have a timing belt or a timing chain? I have found threads saying chain and a few others saying belt. So, which is it?

      Thanks.

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    3. #2
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      Chain. The 3.0 inline 6 gets a chain.
      Last edited by sleepstate; 02-05-2020 at 04:08 PM.

    4. #3
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      Thank you, I suspected it was a chain but after finding posts mentioned a belt was not sure.

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    6. #4
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      New models with the Drive-E (where T5, T6, T8 are trim levels and don't mean engine) use a belt. Probably whats causing the confusion.

    7. #5
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Some of the confusion also is that the SI 6 has a specific interval (150k miles) for changing the accessory drive belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. Some folks get that confused with the timing belt.

      https://volvornt.harte-hanks.com/man...chedule-v1.pdf
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    8. #6
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      ^^^
      Very true. Also very important because that accessory belt runs the water pump (I would not call the water pump and accessory, but thanks Volvo)

    9. #7
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      LOL! Water pump an accessory, that's excellent.

    10. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by sleepstate View Post
      where T5, T6, T8 are trim levels and don't mean engine)
      That's incorrect. The T5, etc is still the engine, but it's with a power output now rather than a cylinder count. Multiply the number by 50 and you have the aprx horsepower. It has nothing to do with trim level. We have Momentum, R- Design, and Inscription for trim levels. All the new ones are belts. The old 6 cylinder cars were timing chains, but the T5s were belts. I know the Volvo 240s were belts, but non-interference motors and pretty easy to swap belts on. Not sure about the motors before then.
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    11. #9
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by abcdefghii View Post
      LOL! Water pump an accessory, that's excellent.
      I don't know if the conventional wisdom is to change the water pump at the same time like in timing belt instances but from what I've read I think the cost of the accessory belt change is pretty high, similar to what a timing belt costs. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong about that - it will be a several years before I get there with any of my cars.
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
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    12. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by abcdefghii View Post
      LOL! Water pump an accessory, that's excellent.
      Many engines use the "accessory" belt to drive the water pump. Probably all engines that use a timing chain instead of a timing belt.

    13. #11
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      Timing belt trivia...

      When designing an engine from scratch, the valvetrain engineer must make sure the valves don't crash into the pistons even at the extremes of wear and tolerances. As part of this exercise, he will make compromises on cam timing if the engine has a timing chain because chains "stretch" but belts don't.

      If you don't believe chains stretch, you've never owned a motorcycle.

    14. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dyno View Post
      Timing belt trivia...

      When designing an engine from scratch, the valvetrain engineer must make sure the valves don't crash into the pistons even at the extremes of wear and tolerances. As part of this exercise, he will make compromises on cam timing if the engine has a timing chain because chains "stretch" but belts don't.

      If you don't believe chains stretch, you've never owned a motorcycle.
      but ive also never seen a chain jump timing, ive seen a number of belts that did before replacement interval for one reason or another.

    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by DFrantz View Post
      That's incorrect. The T5, etc is still the engine, but it's with a power output now rather than a cylinder count. Multiply the number by 50 and you have the aprx horsepower. It has nothing to do with trim level.
      Well how about that. Learn something every day. Thanks for the info

    16. #14
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      To further elaborate on the T5/T6/T8, T5 is turbocharged only, T6 turbocharged and supercharged, T8 turbocharged, supercharged and hybrid.

    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      To further elaborate on the T5/T6/T8, T5 is turbocharged only, T6 turbocharged and supercharged, T8 turbocharged, supercharged and hybrid.
      Vs former T3, T4, T5, T6 & V8 engines, all turbocharged, except the last, and designating number of cylinders.

      Volvo is just following other (German) EU manufacturers who have largely changed from displacement-based designations (e.g., BMW 325e in line 6 or Mercedes E420 V8) to largely-turbocharged designations based, loosely, on relative power output: BMW 325i (2L 4 cylinder) or Mercedes E43 (3L 6 cylinder)


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      KECA Kombi - Now '16 V60 T6 AWD R-Design - Just a K&N filter so far, but love the PoleStar tune.

    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by brich999 View Post
      but ive also never seen a chain jump timing, ive seen a number of belts that did before replacement interval for one reason or another.
      In Volvos - in all these designs is a spring loaded chain tensioner, which takes up the ‘slack’ at the chain wears and may have a service interval (although it should last as long as the chain and engine).

      Had a 2000 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 V8, which was a lovely car when running but very instructive as, compared to our Volvos, many of the things you just assume are well sorted and will work, just weren’t and didn’t. One of the few things that didn’t fail, fortunately, was the chain tensioner, which was supposed to be ‘lifetime’ like the chain and engine, but was rendered in inferior plastic and would give up, unexpectedly, with catastrophic results.


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      KECA Kombi - Now '16 V60 T6 AWD R-Design - Just a K&N filter so far, but love the PoleStar tune.

    19. #17
      Junior Member Tonyfr's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dyno View Post
      If you don't believe chains stretch, you've never owned a motorcycle.
      /
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      Last edited by Tonyfr; 02-06-2020 at 08:26 PM.
      2013 Volvo S60 T5
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    20. #18
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      Do your drive belt and timing belt before 120K if you have a T5, I learned the hard way.

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...er-replacement

      The drive belt on the T5 is prone to failure, not sure if T6 drive belts fair any better.

      While my T5 was in the shop, the A.C compressor belt was also swapped as P.M. Got 5 new Bosch Iridium plugs too. Next up is flushing out the engine oil, doing the solenoids and changing the oil pressure switch.
      2012 S60 T5 FWD & 2013 XC90 AWD

    21. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman View Post
      Do your drive belt and timing belt before 120K if you have a T5, I learned the hard way.

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...er-replacement

      The drive belt on the T5 is prone to failure, not sure if T6 drive belts fair any better.

      While my T5 was in the shop, the A.C compressor belt was also swapped as P.M. Got 5 new Bosch Iridium plugs too. Next up is flushing out the engine oil, doing the solenoids and changing the oil pressure switch.
      A 5 cylinder T5, not Drive-E T5.

      And it's the tensioner that failson those, causing the belt to shred.

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      A 5 cylinder T5, not Drive-E T5.

      And it's the tensioner that failson those, causing the belt to shred.
      yes, the tensioner fails causing the belt to snap or wrap other parts. Something is not quite right with my T5 after the rebuild, and I would like your opinion.

      Right now after my rebuild I get a P000A & P000B for slow cam shaft response. During the rebuild we poured half a quart of lucas oil (thicker than 5W30 synthetic) stabilizer on the cams and valves to lube it since it sat for 6 months. Don't know what else could have gone wrong but a few weeks ago I get the oil pressure warning symbol flashing saying to stop engine, no oil pressure. Thing runs great and there is no drivability issue but it does run rich, less efficient.

      Other theories from friends and mechanics range from change the solenoids and the oil pressure switch and flush out the oil oil which after 3K of driving is due for an oil change soon anyway. Car has 114K and runs great.

      One theory was we used too much anaerobic sealer on the cam cover which I doubt is the cause of p000A & B.

      The lifters are making the rattling noise on cold starts but it runs fine. Don't know what else it could be.
      2012 S60 T5 FWD & 2013 XC90 AWD

    23. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      A 5 cylinder T5, not Drive-E T5.

      And it's the tensioner that failson those, causing the belt to shred.
      So you recommend changing the tensioner not the belt ?


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    24. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by anewman644 View Post
      So you recommend changing the tensioner not the belt ?


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      I don't see why you wouldn't also do the belt while you were there. Cost is not much more.
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    25. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by anewman644 View Post
      So you recommend changing the tensioner not the belt ?


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      belt and tensioner are replaced together. timing belt comes as a kit with included parts. aux belts are sold separate but should be replaced with idler roller

    26. #24
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      Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman View Post
      yes, the tensioner fails causing the belt to snap or wrap other parts. Something is not quite right with my T5 after the rebuild, and I would like your opinion.

      Right now after my rebuild I get a P000A & P000B for slow cam shaft response. During the rebuild we poured half a quart of lucas oil (thicker than 5W30 synthetic) stabilizer on the cams and valves to lube it since it sat for 6 months. Don't know what else could have gone wrong but a few weeks ago I get the oil pressure warning symbol flashing saying to stop engine, no oil pressure. Thing runs great and there is no drivability issue but it does run rich, less efficient.

      Other theories from friends and mechanics range from change the solenoids and the oil pressure switch and flush out the oil oil which after 3K of driving is due for an oil change soon anyway. Car has 114K and runs great.

      One theory was we used too much anaerobic sealer on the cam cover which I doubt is the cause of p000A & B.

      The lifters are making the rattling noise on cold starts but it runs fine. Don't know what else it could be.
      vvt solenoids are sensitive buggers and difficult to remove and reinstall without getting messed up. have seen sealer end up causing problems in them and also the removal process. cant twist them out, which seems like the most gentle method but twisting messes them up

    27. #25
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      This is why these threads get confusing. People are talking about different engines, different belts, etc.

      On the 5 cylinder T5, I recommend changing the drive belts and tensioner before the service interval. There's another thread about it around.

    28. #26
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      LOL at the chain sprocket

    29. #27
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      Quote Originally Posted by brich999 View Post
      vvt solenoids are sensitive buggers and difficult to remove and reinstall without getting messed up. have seen sealer end up causing problems in them and also the removal process. cant twist them out, which seems like the most gentle method but twisting messes them up
      I think you hit the nail on the head. Right when we started the rebuild removing those solenoids was way too tight. Had to twist them out with a pair of pliers as could not hand remove. They're in the $250 range for the pair of solenoids.

      And didn't mean to derail the thread, just chiming in as there's a lot of movement and opinions on this thread.
      Having the T5 5 cylinder motor has its mixed blessings. The tensioners can and will fail. We struggled with the drive belt tensioner but I'm glad it's done.
      2012 S60 T5 FWD & 2013 XC90 AWD

    30. #28
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      Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman View Post
      Right now after my rebuild I get a P000A & P000B for slow cam shaft response. During the rebuild we poured half a quart of lucas oil (thicker than 5W30 synthetic) stabilizer on the cams and valves to lube it since it sat for 6 months. Don't know what else could have gone wrong but a few weeks ago I get the oil pressure warning symbol flashing saying to stop engine, no oil pressure. Thing runs great and there is no drivability issue but it does run rich, less efficient.

      Other theories from friends and mechanics range from change the solenoids and the oil pressure switch and flush out the oil oil which after 3K of driving is due for an oil change soon anyway. Car has 114K and runs great.

      One theory was we used too much anaerobic sealer on the cam cover which I doubt is the cause of p000A & B.

      The lifters are making the rattling noise on cold starts but it runs fine. Don't know what else it could be.
      So I guess you haven't dropped the pan to check the oil pickup yet? Did you measure your bottom end bearing clearances when doing the rebuild?

      I know it is not the explanation you want to hear, but the symptoms (ticking lifters, low oil pressure light, slow camshaft solenoid response CELs) all point, unsurprisingly, to low oil pressure.

      Possible causes:
      -oil pickup is clogged
      -bottom end bearing clearances are too large.
      -excessive piston ring blowby, causing fuel to contaminate and thin the oil.

      The hydraulic lifters ticking at startup means they are not holding prime. Which means the oil is too thin, or there is some gap in the pressurized oil system so big that fluid surface tension can no longer prevent the oil from gravity draining back into the pan.

      I hate to say it, but a clogged oil pickup is actually the best case scenario, and it is looking less and less likely to be the cause.

    31. #29
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      Quote Originally Posted by budleach View Post
      So I guess you haven't dropped the pan to check the oil pickup yet? Did you measure your bottom end bearing clearances when doing the rebuild?

      I know it is not the explanation you want to hear, but the symptoms (ticking lifters, low oil pressure light, slow camshaft solenoid response CELs) all point, unsurprisingly, to low oil pressure.

      Possible causes:
      -oil pickup is clogged
      -bottom end bearing clearances are too large.
      -excessive piston ring blowby, causing fuel to contaminate and thin the oil.

      The hydraulic lifters ticking at startup means they are not holding prime. Which means the oil is too thin, or there is some gap in the pressurized oil system so big that fluid surface tension can no longer prevent the oil from gravity draining back into the pan.

      I hate to say it, but a clogged oil pickup is actually the best case scenario, and it is looking less and less likely to be the cause.
      no sir, have not dropped the pan yet. My mechanic said exactly what you said, it's probably a clogged oil pick-up. Is there a pick-up screen or strainer there of some sort..have never done that. Will ask my mechanic friend about the bearing clearances. He tweeked a few things on the rebuild but not sure that was one of them.

      Will update my other thread on the p000A & p000B cam shaft slow response thread so as not to derail this thread any further but I think it's still great you took the time to explain things to members just looking to DIY and learn. Cool

      Other thread on cam shaft slow response:

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...-Slow-Response
      Last edited by Highwayman; 02-08-2020 at 08:30 AM.
      2012 S60 T5 FWD & 2013 XC90 AWD

    32. #30
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      I'd be interested to see how long those Bosch plugs last, as I've had very short life-cycles with their platinum plugs. They were listed as 40,000 mile plugs, but were junk by 25,000 miles, in two different cars. I switched to NGK platinum and the life-cycle almost doubled. I changed them at 40,000 miles as a matter of routine, but they still looked great. My wife and I were (not so much anymore) both high-mileage drivers, and keep our cars a long time, so we actually have real-world data to work with. Please post your experience when you next change your plugs.

    33. #31
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      [QUOTE=DFr I know the Volvo 240s were belts, but non-interference motors and pretty easy to swap belts on. Not sure about the motors before then.[/QUOTE]

      Actually, I had a '75 240 with neither. It wasn't an overhead cam engine. Solid lifters too. Unfortunately, the guy who owned it before me never adjusted the valves, so I ended up replacing the cam at about 60k miles. It was the last year that used leaded gas, too, when everyone else had to use unleaded. Fuel injection allowed it to meet smog standards for a little longer than most.

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