2007 S80 3.2 - High Temp Warning, Screeching and Slow Belt movement.
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    1. #1
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      2007 S80 3.2 - High Temp Warning, Screeching and Slow Belt movement.

      Pretty sure the issue is a bad tensioner or other serpentine drive component. Really loud screeching and you can smell burning belt and see it coming apart a bit. Pulled it off the A/C compressor (it stretched due to heat) and noise stops and engine smooth as silk. Was concerned about driving it home due to no power steering (boy does this car need it!) and potential that the belt drives the water pump. Is that the case?

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    3. #2
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      Quote Originally Posted by ironmike View Post
      Pretty sure the issue is a bad tensioner or other serpentine drive component. Really loud screeching and you can smell burning belt and see it coming apart a bit. Pulled it off the A/C compressor (it stretched due to heat) and noise stops and engine smooth as silk. Was concerned about driving it home due to no power steering (boy does this car need it!) and potential that the belt drives the water pump. Is that the case?
      DO NOT drive the car without the serpentine belt. The only accessory not driven by the belt is the alternator. If you drive it, the will overheat. Have it towed.
      2004 S60 2.5t (2014-2015)
      2006 S40 2.4i (2015-2016)
      2009 S80 3.2
      1966 122S

    4. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by greys60 View Post
      DO NOT drive the car without the serpentine belt. The only accessory not driven by the belt is the alternator. If you drive it, the will overheat. Have it towed.
      Yep, done! Surfed some parts diagrams and sure enough the water pump is driven by the power steering pulley. Interesting design and glad I did not drive it home - not a fan of having the water pump turning rely upon all those other parts staying in shape. It was about 32 degrees out so hopefully that helped potentially save the engine. The Coolant Low message came on with the read triangle/exclamation point. Family member was driving it and got the "High Engine Temp" warning and pulled over immediately and shut the car off (good guy!). Will dig into it over the week, I can already feel the upper idler pulley is really loose. But the engine was run for for however minutes with the belt not moving much so hoping the fix is only need to replace the pulley. Concerned the fluid had dropped a bit, hoping it's just a leak and not a blown head gasket. That did happen at another point in time during the summer and we just topped it off (car is new to us with 100k on it so wanted to see how long that would hold and it's stayed nice for a while actually). Sadly, I do seem to smell coolant outside the car and hoping it's not coming from the exhaust. Coolant clean, oil clean, remaining hopeful. Any tests I can do to confirm head gasket before getting all the new parts I'm glad to put in if it's just a leak?

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by ironmike View Post
      Yep, done! Surfed some parts diagrams and sure enough the water pump is driven by the power steering pulley. Interesting design and glad I did not drive it home - not a fan of having the water pump turning rely upon all those other parts staying in shape. It was about 32 degrees out so hopefully that helped potentially save the engine. The Coolant Low message came on with the read triangle/exclamation point. Family member was driving it and got the "High Engine Temp" warning and pulled over immediately and shut the car off (good guy!). Will dig into it over the week, I can already feel the upper idler pulley is really loose. But the engine was run for for however minutes with the belt not moving much so hoping the fix is only need to replace the pulley. Concerned the fluid had dropped a bit, hoping it's just a leak and not a blown head gasket. That did happen at another point in time during the summer and we just topped it off (car is new to us with 100k on it so wanted to see how long that would hold and it's stayed nice for a while actually). Sadly, I do seem to smell coolant outside the car and hoping it's not coming from the exhaust. Coolant clean, oil clean, remaining hopeful. Any tests I can do to confirm head gasket before getting all the new parts I'm glad to put in if it's just a leak?
      You could do a compression to check for the head gasket. It might be more difficult with the push button starter though. Definitely pressure test the cooling to system to check for leaks though. Under these circumstances, make sure the water pump isn't leaking or seized. Chances are that the head gasket is probably fine if the car was stopped quicky.
      2004 S60 2.5t (2014-2015)
      2006 S40 2.4i (2015-2016)
      2009 S80 3.2
      1966 122S

    7. #5
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      Exclamation

      That's a good point about the push button start and compression testing. Don't suppose there's a nifty paper clip insertion into some fuse spots which makes the starter run, eh? Perhaps techs use VIDA to engage the starter or other tool. I'll try it later, perhaps there's enough rotations with push button to get a stable reading if the car doesn't start right away.

      Dug into this a bit more last night. Went to inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys. The idler was loose and makes the exact noise we heard a few weeks ago, so that's going to get replaced of course. Went to inspect the tensioner pulley and... THERE WAS NO TENSIONER PULLEY!!! Exploded, yikes...

      I'd show pictures but it shows the following down below:

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      Quote Originally Posted by greys60 View Post
      You could do a compression to check for the head gasket. It might be more difficult with the push button starter though. Definitely pressure test the cooling to system to check for leaks though. Under these circumstances, make sure the water pump isn't leaking or seized. Chances are that the head gasket is probably fine if the car was stopped quicky.
      Last edited by ironmike; 02-17-2020 at 11:09 AM.

    8. #6
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      Question, I see FCP sells a kit that includes the Alternator "clutch". This is a new design to me (always had S70's and 700s and 240s) and I can't move that thing at all. Should I be able to turn the alternator pulley by hand? What drives that whole system, is there another belt inside that housing or is it a gear system? Want to determine if it needs replacing too while I'm at it.

      https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...70-s80-oem-kit

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by ironmike View Post
      Question, I see FCP sells a kit that includes the Alternator "clutch". This is a new design to me (always had S70's and 700s and 240s) and I can't move that thing at all. Should I be able to turn the alternator pulley by hand? What drives that whole system, is there another belt inside that housing or is it a gear system? Want to determine if it needs replacing too while I'm at it.

      https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...70-s80-oem-kit
      There are 2 alternator decoupler pulleys. One is on the alternator and the other is bolted to the READ assembly on the belt side of the engine. The one shown in the kit is the one located on the belt side of the engine. It should move freely in one direction by hand and lock up in the other. If it locked up in both directions, it has failed. Mine was locked up when I replaced all my belt components at 150,000 miles. I would assume that it had been like that for awhile. I would replace it to avoid having to pull everything apart again in the future. It is a pain to get at though due to the bracket underneath the A/C compressor. You will need an alternator pulley removal kit, which you should be able to rent at an auto parts store. Technically you also need a special tool to realign the bracket. I did not use the tool and marked the bracket with sharpie to ensure proper realignment. It went back together without any issues. It has some thick washers that you cannot lose or else it won't go back together. So be mindful of that if you decide to do this. The entire system is pretty interesting. I've linked a video with some more information on how these engines work.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OY9ZklL6bk0
      2004 S60 2.5t (2014-2015)
      2006 S40 2.4i (2015-2016)
      2009 S80 3.2
      1966 122S

    10. #8
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      Thank you! I was in fact able to rotate it CCW but not CW. Unsure how smooth/free it should be, seems to have a bit of drag to it, it doesn't freewheel like a bicycle freewheel that's for sure. Should it (i.e., no belt on and I spin it, it keeps spinning on it's own)?

    11. #9
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      It should have some resistance when you turn it, but it should also feel smooth. It should move pretty easily but shouldn't keep moving on its own when you let go. To me it sounds like yours is still good.

      Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
      2004 S60 2.5t (2014-2015)
      2006 S40 2.4i (2015-2016)
      2009 S80 3.2
      1966 122S

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