How to Determine Age of Car Battery?
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    1. #1

      How to Determine Age of Car Battery?

      I suspect my car battery is original to the vehicle, but I absolutely cannot find a date on the battery. You'd think one would be printed on the sticker? I run a Dash Camera, with power cut off at 50%, and it seems the camera shuts off sooner and sooner. If the battery is original to the car, it's about 56 months old. However, I'd like to know for sure, but all I see is a serial number.

      Sometime between now or when I have the car in for service, I'll have battery tested, but I'd like to know the age none the less. Attaching Pictures.

      Also: How long are Volvo Batteries Rated to last?


      20200216_000239.jpg

      20200215_235950.jpg

      20200216_000249.jpg

      20200215_235705.jpg
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 02-15-2020 at 11:48 PM.

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    3. #2
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      I had a 7 year old OEM battery in my V50 that I proactively replaced going into a winter - I figured it was better safe than sorry even though it was still going strong. In our S40, we replaced the original battery after 8 years. In the S60, I assume it's the original battery (I bought the car only 2 years old) and its in-service date was April 2014, so mine is going on 6 years.

      Hope this gives you an idea of longevity! I'll always stick with OEM with these types of results.
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      I suspect my car battery is original to the vehicle, but I absolutely cannot find a date on the battery. You'd think one would be printed on the sticker? I run a Dash Camera, with power cut off at 50%, and it seems the camera shuts off sooner and sooner. If the battery is original to the car, it's about 56 months old. However, I'd like to know for sure, but all I see is a serial number.

      Sometime between now or when I have the car in for service, I'll have battery tested, but I'd like to know the age none the less. Attaching Pictures.

      Also: How long are Volvo Batteries Rated to last?


      20200216_000239.jpg

      20200215_235950.jpg

      20200216_000249.jpg

      20200215_235705.jpg
      T replaced the original Volvo battery in our 07' V70 this year. The battery was still going strong without any problems but I decided to replace because it was starting to weep fluid around the top seam otherwise it would have remained. The battery did not have a date but I suspect it was manufactured sometime in 06'.

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    6. #4
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      It is likely original. Check the top of the negative post for a date stamping. Not sure when they started doing it though and don't think I've seen it on all of them.

    7. #5
      Member Oceans60R's Avatar
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      That is an Original Battery. Replacement Volvo Branded batteries have a green date code sticker right on top with month and year.
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    8. #6
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      This doesn't answer your question but I replace my batteries after 5-6 years. Definitely before the 6-year mark whether it needs it or not. I know batteries MAY last up to 7 years, the hassle of it dying one me (no-start) condition is not worth the hassle (even with AAA protection).

      I usually just go with an Interstate battery although the last one I got was a Bosch AGM from Pepboys when they were offering a $40 rebate.
      Last edited by Config; 02-16-2020 at 10:34 AM.
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    9. #7
      Member msmith's Avatar
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      I think where you live also contributes to when a battery should be changed. In areas then have consistent temperatures you could probably get away with a change every 5-7 years. Up here in Canada, and Ottawa in particular, we have some pretty extreme ranges in temperature. During the summer months daily average can be between 20-32 celcius (68-90F), spring and fall is maybe 10-20C (50-68F), but our winters can be brutal. For the most part we probably average -10 to -15C (14 to 5F) but also have days in Jan /Feb that can hit -30 to -40 (-22 to -40F). These extremes can cause premature wear on a battery.

      I have averaged a battery change about every 4 years on pretty much all the cars I have owned up here.
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    10. #8
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      As far as I know, most aftermarket batteries have a date stamp code on the sticker, although I am not sure OE-labeled batteries are the same.

      Since yours is OE marked, I would suspect it hasn't been changed (although it theoretically could have been done under warranty from the previous owner if there was an isue). Therefore, if you have a DiCE unit and look in VIDA under the Battery Monitoring Sensor submenu, it should tell you the life of the battery in total days and mileage. Of course that is only valid if the battery is 1) original, as aforementioned, or 2) if the battery was indeed replaced and the BMS was reset appropriately using VIDA.



      As far as life goes, typical manufacturers will only warranty their batteries for about 4 years. In my experiences, I've typically gone between 5-6 years and then have seen charging failures prior to replacing batteries.
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    11. #9
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      It is likely original. Check the top of the negative post for a date stamping. Not sure when they started doing it though and don't think I've seen it on all of them.
      I didn't see a date printed anywhere. Only serial numbers. Car was made in June 2014 and bought June 2016. Came as a Demo / Loaner with in service date of June 2015 + 2000 miles. So I'd surmise the battery is original too, unless there had been an issue necessitating a swap.

      What is the average life of an OE battery from Volvo? I know having a Dash Cam hardwired will shorten the life some, but I'm suspecting I'm nearing maybe 60% since cutoff is at 50% and camera isn't staying on nearly as long as it use to. Not really wanting to lower voltage to 25% or I might find I have a car that doesn't start.

    12. #10
      Quote Originally Posted by GRUENDIG View Post
      T replaced the original Volvo battery in our 07' V70 this year. The battery was still going strong without any problems but I decided to replace because it was starting to weep fluid around the top seam otherwise it would have remained. The battery did not have a date but I suspect it was manufactured sometime in 06'.
      I really hope the hardwired Dash Cam isn't draining the batter down this quick, as I've run it over a year. Last time battery was tested (sometime last year) it was at around 75%. Starting to wonder if it's nearing around 60% since Camera shuts off sooner now. Guess I'll need to get it tested. I presume as others suggested, the battery is original, even though there's no date to be found.

    13. #11
      Quote Originally Posted by p.rico View Post
      As far as I know, most aftermarket batteries have a date stamp code on the sticker, although I am not sure OE-labeled batteries are the same.

      Since yours is OE marked, I would suspect it hasn't been changed (although it theoretically could have been done under warranty from the previous owner if there was an isue). Therefore, if you have a DiCE unit and look in VIDA under the Battery Monitoring Sensor submenu, it should tell you the life of the battery in total days and mileage. Of course that is only valid if the battery is 1) original, as aforementioned, or 2) if the battery was indeed replaced and the BMS was reset appropriately using VIDA.


      As far as life goes, typical manufacturers will only warranty their batteries for about 4 years. In my experiences, I've typically gone between 5-6 years and then have seen charging failures prior to replacing batteries.
      Car was manufactured 2 years before I purchased, but was only put into service year before purchase. In service June 2015 and purchased June 2016 with ~2000 miles on clock. No access to Vida. I've seen Low Battery Messages, but I do have a hard wired Dash Camera trickling power when parked. The camera seems to be shutting down more frequently at 50% voltage cutoff. So I'm starting to think the batter may be nearing 60% or less. It was tested last year at 75%. Course having something trickling the battery constantly is going to wear it quicker. Guess only solution without Vida is have it tested.
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 02-16-2020 at 11:52 PM.

    14. #12
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      Any idea how much the camera draws?

    15. #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Any idea how much the camera draws?
      ACC for Camera is hardwired to 15 AMP Heated Front Passenger Seat (Fuse 27). Battery is hardwired Power Front Passenger Seat (Fuse 14) 20 AMP.

      Here is Camera I own: https://www.viofo.com/en/home/79-a12...sh-camera.html

      I am not sure amperage but product details state:

      Input DC 5.0V / 1A

      Measurements DC5.0V/3.1A via mini USB

      Thinking it's ~ 3 Amps?
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 02-16-2020 at 11:59 PM.

    16. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Check the top of the negative post for a date stamping.

      It is stamped exactly as Tech stated. I can barely make it out in your 4th picture. Looks like 25 / 16. Which would be week 25 of year 2016. Which would correspond to June 2016. So they must have replaced the battery right before the sale.

    17. #15
      Quote Originally Posted by budleach View Post
      It is stamped exactly as Tech stated. I can barely make it out in your 4th picture. Looks like 25 / 16. Which would be week 25 of year 2016. Which would correspond to June 2016. So they must have replaced the battery right before the sale.
      I'll check again and take a photo later today.

    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Any idea how much the camera draws?
      Standby battery drain (quiescent), momentary charging current as well as battery age and state of charge SoC can be displayed on a smartphone in Car Scanner ELM OBD2 android/ios app (Volvo 2008+ or 2014VEA profile should be selected in setup/connection/profile).

    19. #17
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      You could try cutting it in half and counting the rings... I'm betting once you've done that you'll find it needs to be replaced though!
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    20. #18
      My battery full image
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      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 02-17-2020 at 05:08 PM.

    21. #19
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      Looks like 2514, which would be original.

    22. #20
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Looks like 2514, which would be original.
      Attaching image of terminal alone.

      bat.jpg
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 02-17-2020 at 05:14 PM.

    23. #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Looks like 2514, which would be original.
      4/25 mean anything?

    24. #22
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      25th week of 2014
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    25. #23
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      25th week of 2014
      Thank you. So 100% original since manufacture date is June 2014. Probably sat around a year... Then used as Demo / Loaner yr with 2000 Miles beginning June 2015. I've had a little under 4 years (June 2016) and 62,000 miles of driving.

      Imagine the power seats and other systems trickle battery. Camera I presume is drawing 3.1 AMPS? All and all I suspect the battery is hitting around 60%, but will get tested. Voltage cutoff works in increments.

      From what I've been told:

      12.6 = 100% battery
      12.4 = 75% (First choice)
      12.2 = 50%
      12.0 = 25%
      11.8 = Dead

      I'm pretty reluctant to set it to 12.0 for fear of walking home. If I have to throw a few hundred bucks at a new battery here soon, I can't complain. Dash Camera has more than paid itself off.

    26. #24
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      Typical draw with the car off is around 15 milliamps. So if that camera draws 3 amps, that is 200x the normal draw. There is no way I'd keep that running with the car off. I don't know if it draws 3 amps though.

    27. #25
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Typical draw with the car off is around 15 milliamps. So if that camera draws 3 amps, that is 200x the normal draw. There is no way I'd keep that running with the car off. I don't know if it draws 3 amps though.
      Doubtful even when powered. That's more than most 12USB adapters can supply.
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    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Typical draw with the car off is around 15 milliamps. So if that camera draws 3 amps, that is 200x the normal draw. There is no way I'd keep that running with the car off. I don't know if it draws 3 amps though.
      The link he posted earlier days it draws 1 amp at 5 volts. So a bit more than 0.4 amps at 12 volts. However, there's no way that the converter is 100% efficient, so the actual draw is probably something like 0.5 amps (500 milliamps). Still way too high for a parasitic draw though.

      It's why I have my dashcam wired into a switched circuit.
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    29. #27
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Camera I presume is drawing 3.1 AMPS?
      FWIW A quick search found the A129 camera you're using consumes 3.8W in parking mode and goes up to 5W in normal mode. If you're on a 5V connection, that means you're pulling 750mA - 1A which is at least 50x the 'sleeping' current draw for your cars other electronics (according to Tech's info below). I'm not too familiar with car battery technology but it doesn't sound like this is going to be good for your battery in the long term?

      Is there a reason you're running the camera with the car off?
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    30. #28
      Quote Originally Posted by PostmanPat View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Camera I presume is drawing 3.1 AMPS?
      FWIW A quick search found the A129 camera you're using consumes 3.8W in parking mode and goes up to 5W in normal mode. If you're on a 5V connection, that means you're pulling 750mA - 1A which is at least 50x the 'sleeping' current draw for your cars other electronics (according to Tech's info below). I'm not too familiar with car battery technology but it doesn't sound like this is going to be good for your battery in the long term?

      Is there a reason you're running the camera with the car off?
      Parking mode ensures if some backs into, vanadalizes, or in anyonrme does something while car is parked, it'll be captured on camera. Sans anyone banging side of car as that's out of cameras peripheral vision.

    31. #29
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Typical draw with the car off is around 15 milliamps. So if that camera draws 3 amps, that is 200x the normal draw. There is no way I'd keep that running with the car off. I don't know if it draws 3 amps though.
      Truthfully, I can't really say the draw, but Postman claims it uses 3.8W or .75 amps in parking mode..How parsitic is a constant 750 milli amp draw off battery?

      I run camera when parked outside. Turn off camera overnight when parked iin my garage.

      Quote Originally Posted by PostmanPat View Post

      FWIW A quick search found the A129 camera you're using consumes 3.8W in parking mode and goes up to 5W in normal mode. If you're on a 5V connection, that means you're pulling 750mA - 1A which is at least 50x the 'sleeping' current draw for your cars other electronics (according to Tech's info below). I'm not too familiar with car battery technology but it doesn't sound like this is going to be good for your battery in the long term?

      Is there a reason you're running the camera with the car off?
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 02-18-2020 at 04:27 PM.

    32. #30
      Quote Originally Posted by zenmervolt View Post

      The link he posted earlier days it draws 1 amp at 5 volts. So a bit more than 0.4 amps at 12 volts. However, there's no way that the converter is 100% efficient, so the actual draw is probably something like 0.5 amps (500 milliamps). Still way too high for a parasitic draw though.

      It's why I have my dashcam wired into a switched circuit.
      Humor me, but what do you mean by switched circuit? I have Camera hardwired via a voltage cutoff set to 12.4 volts. So Camera seems to cut off sooner and sooner.

      Only way that I'm aware to avoid using car battery and a parasitic draw, and correct me if wrong, is use a battery pack for parking mode.
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 02-18-2020 at 05:13 PM.

    33. #31
      Junior Member Sysyphus61's Avatar
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      Looks like the battery capacity is 80Ah, so half an amp for twelve hours would use less than ten percent of the battery capacity... assuming you drive it enough to charge up each day then leaving the camera on overnight shouldn’t be a problem
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    34. #32
      Quote Originally Posted by Sysyphus61 View Post
      Looks like the battery capacity is 80Ah, so half an amp for twelve hours would use less than ten percent of the battery capacity... assuming you drive it enough to charge up each day then leaving the camera on overnight shouldn’t be a problem
      Parked in house garage overnight. Camera powered off then.

    35. #33
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Humor me, but what do you mean by switched circuit? I have Camera hardwired via a voltage cutoff set to 12.4 volts. So Camera seems to cut off sooner and sooner.

      Only way that I'm aware to avoid using car battery and a parasitic draw, and correct me if wrong, is use a battery pack for parking mode.
      I don't use parking mode on my camera. It's wired into a fused accessory circuit that is not powered unless the ignition is in position II. So the camera shuts itself off when I turn the car off.

      The camera does contain a battery of its own and I could use its parking mode (uses a low-draw g sensor that will wake the camera if the car is jolted) but the camera is hypersensitive. Even on the least sensitive mode it woke up every time I opened the door to get something out of the car and since I've never had a problem with people messing with the car I just turned off the parking mode so I didn't have the SD card littered with "event" clips that I could only delete manually instead of relying on the automatic overwrite of the camera for old files.

      Also, letting the battery get down to 50% often is very, very hard on standard automotive SLI (Starter, Lighting, and Ignition) battery. They aren't really designed to be discharged and will live longest when maintained between 80% and 100% state of charge.
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    36. #34
      Quote Originally Posted by zenmervolt View Post
      I don't use parking mode on my camera. It's wired into a fused accessory circuit that is not powered unless the ignition is in position II. So the camera shuts itself off when I turn the car off.
      What Camera Model are you running?

      Quote Originally Posted by zenmervolt View Post
      The camera does contain a battery of its own and I could use its parking mode (uses a low-draw g sensor that will wake the camera if the car is jolted) but the camera is hypersensitive. Even on the least sensitive mode it woke up every time I opened the door to get something out of the car and since I've never had a problem with people messing with the car I just turned off the parking mode so I didn't have the SD card littered with "event" clips that I could only delete manually instead of relying on the automatic overwrite of the camera for old files.
      The camera I run (A129 Duo) has Low Bitrate recording in parking mode - Records in real time while parked, in "lesser quality". The problem with motion detection is three fold. One you mentioned that it can be way to sensitive for no good reason. The second is these event captures only activate if an "event occurs". Meaning if I back up into your car, it will activate after the fact. Meaning you'll miss the moment I hit your car. But might capture me driving away, giving you less evidence to prove what happened. Third, your camera probably operates via a super capacitor. Meaning since it only stores a limited amount of power to capture events, since there is no current to replenish the energy usage.

      Quote Originally Posted by zenmervolt View Post
      Also, letting the battery get down to 50% often is very, very hard on standard automotive SLI (Starter, Lighting, and Ignition) battery. They aren't really designed to be discharged and will live longest when maintained between 80% and 100% state of charge.
      I would think 50% would be a reasonable cut off? Other choice is 75% but my battery is definitely past that point. I was told by an ASE mechanic friend that car should have no issues starting at 50%, to which I have never experienced a problem. However, I do agree that a constant energy draw will decrease the lifespan of the battery. I accept this fact and all the caveats that follow because:

      1. My camera has come in handy twice now (Not Parking Mode) - Normal Driving.

      2. A prime anecdotal experience of why parking mode is worth while. ~15 Years ago (before dash cameras), my grandparents were parked at their health club. They come out to find their car suffered moderate damage. Some lady while reversing plowed into the back of their vehicle, and drove off. Luckily, the health club had a security camera facing the parking lot, and the person was able to be identified.

      There are plenty of A-Holes out there, who would choose to never leave a note, if they are able to drive off "without being seen".

    37. #35
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      What Camera Model are you running?



      The camera I run (A129 Duo) has Low Bitrate recording in parking mode - Records in real time while parked, in "lesser quality". The problem with motion detection is three fold. One you mentioned that it can be way to sensitive for no good reason. The second is these event captures only activate if an "event occurs". Meaning if I back up into your car, it will activate after the fact. Meaning you'll miss the moment I hit your car. But might capture me driving away, giving you less evidence to prove what happened. Third, your camera probably operates via a super capacitor. Meaning since it only stores a limited amount of power to capture events, since there is no current to replenish the energy usage.



      I would think 50% would be a reasonable cut off? Other choice is 75% but my battery is definitely past that point. I was told by an ASE mechanic friend that car should have no issues starting at 50%, to which I have never experienced a problem. However, I do agree that a constant energy draw will decrease the lifespan of the battery. I accept this fact and all the caveats that follow because:

      1. My camera has come in handy twice now (Not Parking Mode) - Normal Driving.

      2. A prime anecdotal experience of why parking mode is worth while. ~15 Years ago (before dash cameras), my grandparents were parked at their health club. They come out to find their car suffered moderate damage. Some lady while reversing plowed into the back of their vehicle, and drove off. Luckily, the health club had a security camera facing the parking lot, and the person was able to be identified.

      There are plenty of A-Holes out there, who would choose to never leave a note, if they are able to drive off "without being seen".
      It all about trade-offs. Consider the cost of a new battery more often than you otherwise would need one if you leave the camera on when parked. Consider the savings if you turn the camera off when parked. Consider the cost of lowering the deductible to zero on your comprehensive insurance so you can just use that every time someone damages your car while parked.

      If I were you, since you already have the camera setup, and we know you would rather chase down the culprit than go through your own insurance (based on a prior thread), I would just resign myself to buying a new battery a little more often. The Bosch battery for our car is $146.24 at Pep Boys and has a 4 year warranty. If it dies on day 1,462, it will have cost you $36.56 per year or $.10 per day. That doesn't mean it cost you an additional $36.56 per year to run the camera, because your battery will wear out eventually even if you don't run the camera. Let's be conservative and say the camera will cut your battery life in half and the battery would have lasted 8 years. That means running the camera only costs you $18.28 per year, or a nickel a day. AND, if the camera shortens the battery life to the extent it runs out before the warranty, you'll get a new battery for free and, it may cost even less!

      TL;DR: Your best option is just buying a new battery with a good warranty and not sweating it because the incremental cost of running the camera is lower than the other options.

      After 2 years, I would keep an eye on your battery and consider getting it tested every few months even when its working just so you don't get stranded. Or get a jump starter to keep in your car.
      Last edited by meade18; 02-19-2020 at 11:00 AM.
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