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Polyurethane bushings on control arms 2007 Xc90 V8

1K views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  ChitownV 
#1 ·
Wondering what it takes to install the Poly bushings on the control arms
Can it be done without a press? I got old bushings out with my air chisel so now I want to install the poly bushings
 
#2 · (Edited)
I just did a pair of control arms with poly and Volvo rearward bushings. I do have a press and couldn't imagine doing this without it. I paid around $100 for mine from Harbor Freight with the 20% off coupon. If you don't want to get a press, then at this time it might be good to find a shop that will press them in. Always be safe.

That said, there are ways without a shop press, if you already have the old bushings off, then the rearward bushing could be pressed-in with the C-clamp style bushing/bearing tool. Just ensure the same reveal on each side. EDIT: also make sure the bushings are rotated the same way they were taken off.

With the front poly bushing is more flexible than people think, but the "Y" part makes it difficult. I would not recommend this and not sure if the arm would fit vertically, but people have used a jack with either a lift or the vehicle's weight: The issue here is finding a completely flat spot under the vehicle and the lip that will extend out the bottom side. You need a cup (base) to give lower clearance. I ironically used the 2in pipe from this XC90 rear trailing arm bushing tool build: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-replacement&p=6298041&viewfull=1#post6298041 and ground off a little of the outer corner so it fits into the inner "Y" of the arm. It is possible cups that come with the C-clamp style bushing/bearing tool can serve this purpose too. Not a great video, but you can see how a cup base (in this case a big socket) has to surround the bushing when using a press:

The C-clamp style press is not long enough to press the poly bushing in from the start, but it might work if you can get the poly bushing halfway in using some other method, then finish with the C-clamp.
 
#3 ·
Installing the poly bushings is a challenge even with a press. The problem I had was getting the things to go in straight, which they never did. I tried using hose clamps and a piston ring compressor to get a good start, but the hose clamp, although promising at the outset, ended up with Poly bouncing all over the shop, anyway. The piston ring compressor sleeve would have worked, I think, if it could have tightened a little more. A motorcycle ring compressor might be good. Ultimately, I did it the counter-intuitive way of pushing it in crooked as per the instructions.. Powerflex claims that no special tools are required. It may be possible with a really good C-clamp, but what's needed is flat sock bridging the outlet hole and pushing against the busing. What I was wishing for was a rod welded perpendicularly to the flat stock to help guide and keep the flat stock from sliding off the face of the bushing.
Once you get the things in, they'll pretty much self center, with the flanges popping right out over the edge of the journal.
I have both front and rear polys, and I still love them after 6 months and lots of world-class potholes.
 
#4 ·
I too had the issue with the alignment, but using the lower pipe helped keep the control arm level. Then, I used one of the C-clamp round ends in the bushing/balljoint kit so it gave a circular pressure on top of the poly bushing with one of the flat cast iron plates that came with the shop press on top of that end piece. Definitely a sandwhich and easier to understand if seeing rather than writing about. But yeah, they can go in crooked, but it self-centers as you continue to press them in.

The polys can take a lot of flex and where it might appear the end lip might pop off when pressing it in, it stays connected.

The order of how I pressed the polys in:
Shop Press |_|
Plate (keeps even pressure below) ____
Round C-Clamp end from kit --
Poly bushing )(
Control Arm | |
2" pipe w/ inside grounded out [ ]
 
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