Safety considerations charging battery
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    1. #1
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      Safety considerations charging battery

      My CPO 2016 S60 Drive-E Platinum Insription with 60K miles shows the start/stop unavailable, and the reason is consistently electrical, most likely battery charge or temp. I have gone on 4 30 to 40 minute highway drives, and 4 20 minutes on the highway to the middle of town drives, and the condition persists. My dealer will likely provide a battery; OR I could just invest in a charger. But I have concerns about using a charger because the manual says to disconnect battery from car if charging. Do I need to do this? If I disconnect the battery long enough to try charging it for several hours, will it reset all my computer, radio presets, etc.?

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    3. #2
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      I have had issues with my 2015 after 3 1/2 years, and the dealer just replaced it under warranty.

      Marco.

      Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
      Current: '15.5 V60RD Platinum, KW V3, IPD swaybar+protective plate, SprintBooster, Ferrita DP+Exhaust, BOV, Do88 FMIC, Ultraracing braces, TDI-Tuning box, Snabb Turbo and HF Intake; '15 Lexus CT200h F-Sport (wife's)
      Past: Porsche 914 '74; LR LR3 HSE '06; Saab 9-3 Aero '05; BMW M3 E30 '88; VW Jetta '00 and '98; VW Fox '86 198

    4. #3
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      No need to disconnect. Simply connect negative connector not directly to the battery, search for a blank spot or use the engine block.

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    6. #4
      Junior Member RobertK's Avatar
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      I have the same car you do. I had the same issue with mine and could resolve it for a week or so by charging the battery. One day the car wouldn't start after buying gas, and I had to get it jumped to get to the dealership. A new battery was installed and all is well now. My battery failed at 47 months and 38000 miles. One more month and it would have been out of warranty (I don't have CPO, and I don't think that CPO covers the battery anyway).

      You won't harm the battery or the car by charging it with the battery connected, but you are probably going to need a new battery soon regardless. You should probably get it checked out before it leaves you stranded somewhere.
      Current Volvo: 2016 S60 T5 Inscription w/Platinum package
      Previous Volvos: 1993 850 GLT (sold in 2016), 1984 240 DL Diesel (sold in 1993)

    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by MarcoC View Post
      I have had issues with my 2015 after 3 1/2 years, and the dealer just replaced it under warranty.

      Marco.

      Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
      There are still a few months left on the original factory warranty; perhaps it can be covered that way. I was concerned because I don't think the car had an extended contract covering service items like oil changes, etc.

    8. #6
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      I own a 2005 S60 2.5T, that I bought in 2017. I did manage to run the battery down several times, and I was able to put on a charger and bring it back to full charge with no problems, no sign of damage to the various computers and electronic modules that this car has. The procedure I used was to gain access to the battery, and carefully hook up the charging cables with the charger unplugged. This results in no sparking when the cables are attached to the battery terminals. The charger was then energized, and typically the initial charge rate was about 6 amps. After 6 or 8 hours of charging, the charge rate would typically drop to around 1 amp, so at that point, I would unplug the charger, disconnect the cables, and consider the battery to be reasonably charged, even though it might have been at 90%. Note that the battery was installed and connected to the car during the entire charging procedure. It is possible to damage electronics by introducing high voltage transients into the DC supply circuit. However, the procedure given above has so far been successful. I will not comment on how often these batteries should be replaced, and/or if this should be done under warranty. I will say that in general, we expect our cars to be reliable, and having a fully charged battery is important in that regard.

    9. #7
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      Don't connect the charger directly to the battery otherwise the BMS will get ****ed up. The BMS then doesn't "know" that the battery was charged and is confused by the higher voltage. This can lead to charging problems of the battery in the car.

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    10. #8
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      Since my Volvo is a 2005 model, it would not have the Battery Monitor System(BMS) found on the later models. There is no way for me to know that the procedure given above would work OK with a later model Volvo. I can say that battery temperature was checked during the charging process, and it never exceeded 80 degrees F. Also, I can say that the car operates normally, charges normally, and that all of the electric features work well, including the headlights and starter motor, which both subject the battery to high drain. The last time the battery was charged using this method was over 12 months ago.

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by wertzius View Post
      Don't connect the charger directly to the battery otherwise the BMS will get ****ed up. The BMS then doesn't "know" that the battery was charged and is confused by the higher voltage. This can lead to charging problems of the battery in the car.

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      the 2012 volvo s60 t5 manual says the battery can be recharged, if needed. It also says the battery "should" be removed, not " must" .
      What difference does it make, however, if the battery is charged in the car or out when talking about the BMS. It's going to see higher voltage from a freshly charged battery whether in the car or out.

    12. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by wertzius View Post
      Don't connect the charger directly to the battery otherwise the BMS will get ****ed up. The BMS then doesn't "know" that the battery was charged and is confused by the higher voltage. This can lead to charging problems of the battery in the car.
      No. It will not lead to charging problems.

      It will lead to the BMS temporarily misreading the battery, but this situation will rectify itself once the car sits for at least 8 hours undisturbed with the doors locked because the BMS will recalibrate over that period.

      This recalibration ability has caused confusion because some have mistaken it for an ability to recalibrate without a manual reset when a new battery is installed, which is not possible.
      I'm not good, I'm not nice, I'm just right.
      2012 S60 T6 R-Design | 1998 S70 T5 SE | 1986 944 Turbo

    13. #11
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      Sorry to resurrect an old thread but we had an unusual situation after seeing a Low Battery Charge message in our '16 XC70 T5, 5-cyl.
      In the past, when we've had these messages, I've connected the charger(+) to Battery(+) and charger(-) to a chassis ground. When I did that last night, the charger's meter didn't move off zero and my DVOM reading of . It didn't matter where (-) was attached. The only change I saw was when I bypassed the BMS by connecting (-) directly to the battery(-) terminal.

      Any insight as to the why of this would be appreciated.

      After an hour, when the rate of charge had dropped to 1-2 amps, I removed the charger and connected a 750ma Battery Tender(BT) overnight, using the same connection points.

      Other notes:
      - This morning, BT float was ~13.1v. When I moved the BT(-) to a chassis ground, the charge went up to ~14.5v for another 20 mins then returned to 13.1v.
      - In January, when the car was in for warranty work, we mentioned the low voltage messages. The battery was recharged and tested good. Yesterday's message was the first we'd seen since then. Cranking has always been strong.
      - We had been leaving the car unlocked in the garage which, along with short tripping, has undoubtedly contributed to the gradually declining state of charge. We will lock the car and use the BT regularly from now on.
      Last edited by halfast3; 03-23-2020 at 01:33 PM.
      2016 XC70 2.5L T5 AWD, Platinum, Seashell/black, ipd rear bar, Curt hitch and wiring
      Previous Volvos: '16 V60CC, ours; 7? 245DL & '6? 145DL, hers; '68 122S Wagon, his.
      Non-Volvos previously owned: waaay too many to list here.

    14. #12
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      The (-) post on the battery should be connected to a good chassis ground. Test for a bad connection by turning on headlights or other large load and measure the voltage between (-) battery post (physically on the lead post, not the clamp) and a solid chassis ground. It should be 0.0 volts. If not, the battery ground connection is bad.

    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by Don Ridley View Post
      The (-) post on the battery should be connected to a good chassis ground. Test for a bad connection by turning on headlights or other large load and measure the voltage between (-) battery post (physically on the lead post, not the clamp) and a solid chassis ground. It should be 0.0 volts. If not, the battery ground connection is bad.
      Checked that, thanks. There is 0.00v drop. That's why I'm at such a loss to understand the conditions I described. Maybe I didn't wait long enough before trying another ground connection...?

      Used to see bad chassis grounds on cars with stamped battery cable ends. Corroded clamp would break during battery replacement. Installer would disconnect the cable from the chassis and the trans mount and replace it with one which bypassed the chassis. Talk about electrical gremlins! As we know electrons will take the path of least resistance... like the speedo cable... or the fuel injector line's braided protective sheaths
      2016 XC70 2.5L T5 AWD, Platinum, Seashell/black, ipd rear bar, Curt hitch and wiring
      Previous Volvos: '16 V60CC, ours; 7? 245DL & '6? 145DL, hers; '68 122S Wagon, his.
      Non-Volvos previously owned: waaay too many to list here.

    16. #14
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      Car should not be left unlocked in the garage. With door locks open, several electronic units are constantly active and drain the battery.
      "Low battery" relates to state of charge under 60% SoC.
      SOC and other battery parameters can be accessed via ELM327 dongle - Car Scanner Elm Obd2 app for ios or android.



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