Time for a brake job?
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    1. #1
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      Time for a brake job?

      I have a 06 S40 T5 6spd manual. I've noticed the ABS seems to be more 'sensitive' lately. Once in a while I catch the "Brake" light flickering, and sometimes I hear a rumble when braking hard or on a downhill. Is it time for a brake job? Which parts do I buy? an ATE kit from FCP? I appreciate any advice and recommendations.
      Thanks!

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    3. #2
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      how many miles on the car?...have the brakes ever been done? you have a 14 year old car and gave no further information, that makes it hard to give advice.
      based on the limited info you gave, a rumble on braking usually means pads/ rotors. I'm a firm believer in completely replacing brake fluid regularly over the years of ownership, something most people don't do. They let their fluid get literally black and then wonder why the abs and brake light warnings illuminate. So, how's the fluid?

    4. #3
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
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      Is it your brake lights that’s are flickering or the word brake on the dash for the Ebrake. If it’s the dash light then the sensor at the base of the ebrake may be slightly bent from being worn down. I have an AT and still had mine go loose, easy fix but you may have to remove the center console to get to the sensor.


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      2008 S40 T5 AWD ("Shadow") |ELEVATE 3" Intake, 2.5" Charge Pipe, Intercooler, Torque Mount, ECU Mount, TCV, Turbosmart CBV, Turbosmart Actuator, stage 3 APC Tune, 3 Stickers (5HP)ea||ClockWorkCalibrations Custom 3" Exhaust||EuroSportTuning 3" downpipe.||CF Cone Filter||De-Badged||custom Mesh Grill||Intercooler Cut out||Porsche 911 Throttle body upgrade||18" Enkie PDC Wheels wrapped in 225/45/18 Sentury UHP||M3 Spoiler|| 8k Morimoto HID Kit|| White LED Fog,City,trunk light|"embody God, then go crazy"

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by jlh3rd View Post
      how many miles on the car?...have the brakes ever been done? you have a 14 year old car and gave no further information, that makes it hard to give advice.
      based on the limited info you gave, a rumble on braking usually means pads/ rotors. I'm a firm believer in completely replacing brake fluid regularly over the years of ownership, something most people don't do. They let their fluid get literally black and then wonder why the abs and brake light warnings illuminate. So, how's the fluid?
      I guess details might help! I think around 162K or so. I've had the car 2 years, it sat for about 8 months during that time, but has been my daily driver since last February. I have never done brakes on it, but when I do brakes I always do fluid- I'm a big believer in reconditioning the whole system (especially cheap functional areas like fluids!). That being said, the car sat for 8 months. toward the end of that time, the clutch was replaced. By 2 different mechanics. Not going to bore with details, but I am 99% sure the fluid was replaced by the second mechanic... he bled the thing at least 3 times, and I'd bet one of those times was a reverse bleed- good mechanic, lots of experience, and troubleshooting shifts into gears. all that to lead up to this question: Is the hydraulic clutch the same fluid circuit as the brakes (so, if the whole clutch was flushed, would that include the brake fluid?) or is the clutch fluid separate from the brakes?

      So, the light that flickers is the dash "BRAKE" light, and it flickers very rarely- I noticed it twice in the past week and it flickered once or twice each of those two times- so briefly that I had to turn the key off and on to identify which idiot light it was.
      I'm gearing up for the worst case- since my tires were replaced last March, I am pretty sure it will be time for pads, rotors, fluid.... and then I saw some additional hoses on the ATE kits, perhaps on one of the Zimmerman kits on FCP. Sounds like I'll need to go with one of those. But which one? My VIN last 6 start with 15, and one of the kits mentions the last 6 starting with something like 52, so I don't need that one, but it looks like there are three different sizes of rotors, I think 280, 300, and 320mm. Which kit would I need and how likely is it that I would need additional parts (ABS sensors or something similar)? It's hard for me to get time to work on these things, so I try to hit as much as possible at a time. Also, are there any pads I should avoid dur to high rate of failure or excessive dust? I don't need extra performance- I'm a spirited driver but just need my daily driver working. Thanks!

    7. #5
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      It makes sense to bleed the brakes and clutch at the same time, but doesn't mean it was done. The mechanic would have had to go out of their way to do the brakes as well.

      As for brakes, you probably have 300mm front brakes. Only AWD manuals (for the most part) got 320mm brakes. Here's the sticky on identifying brake size: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...p?65244#636399

      I'm using Zimmerman rotors with Akebono pads (ceramic). Essentially no dust, very quiet and performance is good but probably not as good as semi-metallic pads. Trade-off is semi-metallic pads produce a lot of dust and can be noisy.
      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
      2006 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 - Titanium Grey
      Hilton Tuning Stage 2 ~ Mototec 3" Downpipe & Sport Exhaust ~ Do88 Intercooler ~ Snabb Intake Pipe
      RIP - 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD Geartronic - Passion Red

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by LittleRedRidingHood View Post
      It makes sense to bleed the brakes and clutch at the same time, but doesn't mean it was done. The mechanic would have had to go out of their way to do the brakes as well.

      As for brakes, you probably have 300mm front brakes. Only AWD manuals (for the most part) got 320mm brakes. Here's the sticky on identifying brake size: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...p?65244#636399

      I'm using Zimmerman rotors with Akebono pads (ceramic). Essentially no dust, very quiet and performance is good but probably not as good as semi-metallic pads. Trade-off is semi-metallic pads produce a lot of dust and can be noisy.
      LOL... I'm driving a 6spd (M66) with AWD..... Is 320mm a safe bet for me or was it only for select stick AWD's?

    9. #7
      Junior Member LittleRedRidingHood's Avatar
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      Pretty safe to assume that they are 320mm, but it's easy to tell by looking at your brakes.

      320s look like this, whereas 300mm calipers have more of a coat hanger looking pad retainer.

      2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 - Passion Red
      2006 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 - Titanium Grey
      Hilton Tuning Stage 2 ~ Mototec 3" Downpipe & Sport Exhaust ~ Do88 Intercooler ~ Snabb Intake Pipe
      RIP - 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD Geartronic - Passion Red

    10. #8
      So I went with the Z23 One Click Kit on both my wife's Subie Outback AND my S40. I can say they have been phenomenal on the Outback. On my S40, I managed to warp the fronts within 2 months twice. Rears are still going strong, but after about 50k are about through the pads.

      The 278 and 300mm fronts have this for a pad retainer:
      https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1433148&jsn=19

      Whereas the 320mm's have this for the pad retainer:
      https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1433148&jsn=18

      I do heavy commutes (90+mph->0mph and lots of traffic some days and a total 60 mi one way trip) - and I can say without a doubt I LOVED the lack of brake fade and issue I had with the PowerStop Z23 kits - I am currently waiting for them to drop in price to get another set so I can replace both my wife's and mines again.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 03-08-2020 at 04:23 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    11. #9
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      I have a 2007 V50 AWD T5 M66. i bought it used, came with 16" wheels and 300mm!! rotors. current OEM pads in front stop nicely, dirty as heck.
      1994 850 wagon 5spd N/A
      2007 V50 T5 AWD 6spd

    12. #10
      Junior Member Volvos rock's Avatar
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      Brakeperformance.com for rotors and their premium ceramic pads. Highly recommend.


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      1996 850 GLT sdn (deceased @ 250k), 2002 V70 XC 120k (traded), 2009 S80 3.2 52k
      2010 VW Croutan 3.8 SE 29k
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    13. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by jlh3rd View Post
      how many miles on the car?...have the brakes ever been done? you have a 14 year old car and gave no further information, that makes it hard to give advice.
      based on the limited info you gave, a rumble on braking usually means pads/ rotors. I'm a firm believer in completely replacing brake fluid regularly over the years of ownership, something most people don't do. They let their fluid get literally black and then wonder why the abs and brake light warnings illuminate. So, how's the fluid?
      Very good point, sir!

      For those who reference the owners manual, they may notice that brake fluid flush is part of normal Volvo service maintenance. Brake fluid is to be replaced every 2 years or 37,500 miles per the owners manual.
      2007 S40 T5

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