Newly Purchased S40 Needs Some Kinks Worked Out...
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    1. #1
      Junior Member RestlessCylinder's Avatar
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      Newly Purchased S40 Needs Some Kinks Worked Out...

      Hi there! My name is Daniel. I'm new to the S40, new to Volvo, and new to this forum. I recently purchased a 05 S40 T5 AWD and decided to join swedespeed because it seemed like there is a lot of knowledge on these vehicles here. I'm coming from owning a bunch of old, beat up Hondas so this is very different for me. I have a bunch of questions about aftermarket parts that are currently installed on the car, as well as issues I'm having.I'm not really sure where I ask all these questions so I am posting in the S40 forum. To keep this from turning into a novel, I'll just start with the biggest issues. I noticed after a few days of driving that the coolant level in the reservoir was slowly diminishing. I tried to look for a visible leak in the system but have not spotted anything yet. I have read that the upper radiator hose t and the reservoir itself are common failure points. What is the best way to thoroughly check the system? Also, I have been driving the car with a warning that says "Anti Skid Service Required". Sometimes the car drives like normal, and sometimes my dash lights up with abs warnings and "brake failure" as well as reduced engine performance and immobilizer. How do I go about fixing this. Could it be a problem with the charging system?

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    3. #2
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      Welcome aboard. I had slow coolant leaking issues on my 2004 S40. There were 2 leaks. First was the thermostat housing. Couldn't see the leak but once I pulled the airbox I could feel moisture on the underside of the thermostat housing. See https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?442729 After replacing the thermostat housing, found out the coolant reservoir was leaking and had to replace it as well. I also proactively replace the upper radiator T hose.

      2nd problem could be charging system issue. Any idea how old the battery is? These cars are sensitive with regards to electrical dying battery can cause issues similar to what you described. Have you had the battery tested?

    4. #3
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      Two more sources for coolant leak. 1) if the car has an aftermarket reservoir cap, it may not be holding proper pressure, allowing the coolant to boil at normal engine temperature. 2) there are pipes that go through the fire wall for the heater core. They are attached to the heater core behind the center console and have o-rings that go bad. Check the passenger side carpet for coolant.
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

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    6. #4
      Junior Member RestlessCylinder's Avatar
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      Thanks for the replies! There is a K&N intake on the car so I should be able to get easy access to the thermostat. I will check for moisture on that when I'm under the hood next time. As for the cap, it appears to be an oem cap based off of pictures I looked up. Not sure if the aftermarket ones look the same though? The passenger carpet is dry, however the driver's side is wet. Could that possibly be because of the sunroof drain? It rained pretty hard the whole day before when I noticed that it was wet, as well as the car smelling musty. Now onto the reservoir, was the leak easy to spot? Where did it leak from? I have not had the battery tested yet, but the alternator belt has a constant squeal, so I definitely need to address that.

    7. #5
      Quote Originally Posted by RestlessCylinder View Post
      Thanks for the replies! There is a K&N intake on the car so I should be able to get easy access to the thermostat. I will check for moisture on that when I'm under the hood next time. As for the cap, it appears to be an oem cap based off of pictures I looked up. Not sure if the aftermarket ones look the same though? The passenger carpet is dry, however the driver's side is wet. Could that possibly be because of the sunroof drain? It rained pretty hard the whole day before when I noticed that it was wet, as well as the car smelling musty. Now onto the reservoir, was the leak easy to spot? Where did it leak from? I have not had the battery tested yet, but the alternator belt has a constant squeal, so I definitely need to address that.
      My cap (if original to the car) was failing to maintain pressure and it is currently 14 years old. Can get a new Ford Motorcraft one on Amazon for $7.99 iirc. Ford Motorcraft is OEM vs Volvo's $60 cap that's the same thing. ALWAYS go OEM here. Volvo just jacks up the price on the ford part.

      Push down on the driver side backseat floor and see if it's wet. That's how you know your sunroof is REALLY leaking or the problem has been around for a long time. Will require removing the seat and removing the carpet to vacuum up and squeeze the water out of the foam. Easy peasy to do.

      The reservoirs usually leak at the point where the 2 hoses join it. They're usually under a small amount of tension due to gravity and this eventually due to heat and age creates cracks on the top of the plastic reservoir where the hoses join it that leech pressure.

      Test battery and test alternator, replace the belts of course and probably the tensioners at this age. Vida recommends 10 years. Of course if you're going to get into it that far make sure your motor mount is good to go there while you're already in there doing the belts and tensioners.

      After all that is done, I would highly recommend a Stage 0 on the car (all fluids/filters/plugs etc) and a volvo specific scantool. Can buy cloned DiCE and comes with VIDA, but will need a Windows 7 Pro 32bit on a laptop to get it to run. If you buy a legit VIDA subscription, it can run on anything with the cloned DiCE. I also own a volvo specific handheld for reading codes and clearing them and lights as they randomly show up. Sometimes you fart and it makes a code show up. For example, I just changed my front O2 sensor. For some reason now, I get a code if it's below 20*F outside and I start my car that says "No communication with O2 sensor" But I go into the details and it's providing info to the computer. Only occurs when it's below 20*F and the engine is cold, no idea why.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 02-29-2020 at 12:41 AM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    8. #6
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      I would guess the upper octopus hose is likely the problem with coolant leak. They seem to be biodegradable as are the heater hose connections. I went a few years slowly losing coolant and could never find the leak. Finally, the upper hose let loose, lost all coolant and overheated the engine. It's imperative that you find the leak and replace it since you have no coolant sensor.

      Anti skid is annoying problem. If it comes and goes it could be a bad connection in your CEM under dash on the pass front seat side. Usually is accompanied by other strange electronic stuff. Wipers activate on their own, keyless locks don't work, etc. If not and anti skid light is always on, it could be the steering angle sensor or the BCM (Brake Control Module). Even with Vida, it is not the easiest thing to diagnose. It's not that critical but your abs may not work. There are companies that will rebuild brake module if that is indeed the problem.

      Sunroof drains are likely loose or clogged under A pillar. There is an elbow that pops off. Squeezing out all the water on that foam sucks.

      Alternator could be going bad. You should get a message about that though. Good thing is it is easy to change. Bad thing is if you don't catch it you could be left stranded. Squeal could just be belts. I changed both tensioners and still had squeal. New belts fixed it though.
      1985 240 Turbo 330K | 1995 Yellow T5-R 238K | 1996 850 Turbo 250K | 2005 S40 2.4i 178K | 2005 XC90 2.5T 240K | 2006 C70 T5 214K | 2007 S40 T5 170K

    9. #7
      Junior Member RestlessCylinder's Avatar
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      I would love to do a stage 0, but I have a very limited budget at the moment so I will have to address one thing at a time. The only part of the floor that was wet when I checked was the driver footwell. It was pretty damp for a few days but has since dried up (at least the carpet). After daily checking the reservoir to monitor my levels, I haven't noticed any significant loss of coolant after filling it back to the proper level. I did however notice a small puddle gathering along the front edge of the reservoir, near the point with the two hoses, so that may be the source. This may sound dumb, but how would I check the motor mount? I was told that the car had motor mounts replaced when I bought the car, but I don't know which ones. When I start the car i do not see any vibration of the engine at idle. The anti skid problem is constant, but the other warnings and the immobilizer are intermittent. They usually disappear after i remove the key and play with the door locks and try to start the car a few times. I read that it might be possible that a bad wheel bearing could cause anti skid because of some sensor on the wheel bearing or near it? I have noticed a sound coming from the driver's side front area that sounds like a bad wheel bearing. As for the scan tool, I would prefer VIDA DiCE but I have been pretty overwhelmed with all the info about it, I don't completely understand how it works, and I don't have the proper computer to run such a software. Would it be better to invest in a obd2 scan tool at least for now (ex. AUTOPHIX ES610, AUTEL MD802)? Thanks again for the help guys. I haven't done extensive work on my cars in the past, just basic upkeep, and there is definitely a lot more going on in the Volvo than my old Hondas, so all your help is greatly appreciated!

    10. #8
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      I thought I had read in a few threads that coolant level dropping and error messages go hand in hand, due to the coolant leaking onto the CEM.

      Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

    11. #9
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
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      Autophix ES610 will give you most of what you need. I've kept two S40s running without VIDA.
      That said, I've only ever used the ES610 to clear an airbag code, so you can probably get by with a generic bluetooth OBD2 dongle and torque lite.

      In my case, coolant would make its way out of a janky cap and the upper radiator hose. The plastic junctions should be easily visible below your intake - the stock airbox obscures them from view. When I had leaks from these junctions, they were hard to detect - they hit the transmission and evaporated, so a visual inspection of the hose itself is useful.
      Not sure about the constant antiskid (wheel speed sensor maybe?), but the intermittent "everything lights up" does sound consistent with CEM issues.
      Last edited by lunalolvo; 03-03-2020 at 01:06 PM.

    12. #10
      Quote Originally Posted by RestlessCylinder View Post
      I would love to do a stage 0, but I have a very limited budget at the moment so I will have to address one thing at a time. The only part of the floor that was wet when I checked was the driver footwell. It was pretty damp for a few days but has since dried up (at least the carpet). After daily checking the reservoir to monitor my levels, I haven't noticed any significant loss of coolant after filling it back to the proper level. I did however notice a small puddle gathering along the front edge of the reservoir, near the point with the two hoses, so that may be the source. This may sound dumb, but how would I check the motor mount? I was told that the car had motor mounts replaced when I bought the car, but I don't know which ones. When I start the car i do not see any vibration of the engine at idle. The anti skid problem is constant, but the other warnings and the immobilizer are intermittent. They usually disappear after i remove the key and play with the door locks and try to start the car a few times. I read that it might be possible that a bad wheel bearing could cause anti skid because of some sensor on the wheel bearing or near it? I have noticed a sound coming from the driver's side front area that sounds like a bad wheel bearing. As for the scan tool, I would prefer VIDA DiCE but I have been pretty overwhelmed with all the info about it, I don't completely understand how it works, and I don't have the proper computer to run such a software. Would it be better to invest in a obd2 scan tool at least for now (ex. AUTOPHIX ES610, AUTEL MD802)? Thanks again for the help guys. I haven't done extensive work on my cars in the past, just basic upkeep, and there is definitely a lot more going on in the Volvo than my old Hondas, so all your help is greatly appreciated!
      Understood at the Stage 0 and limited finances. I would start at the front and work your way backwards.

      In regards to your puddle of coolant in front of the reservoir, that's often where the cracks are, so you can get either the cheapo or the expensive one from RockAuto.com. When I compared them they both had the exact same manufacturing markings, so I am not sure what the difference is. I have had the cheapo in the car for some time now and there has been no issue thus far.

      How one traditionally checks motormounts is you'd set up your cell phone on the cowl or somewhere solid it won't fall down and record the engine running, then get behind the wheel and mash the brake while giving it some gas and letting the clutch out - even on an automatic similar - mash the brake and press the gas. Go as far as you safely can for your environment and then watch the video, there should be very little movement. For the torque mount (bottom one) Most of us either get the electric ford focus mount or a powerflex insert for the stock mount. If you get the Mazda Speed 3 one, you have to get the bolt that comes with it as it's not the same as ours. As for drivers side mount - there's an upgrade kit to the new hydraulic mount, or you can get a new mount and not change anything. Both cost the same. Passenger side mount fails the most often due to its odd design. It makes me sad as I've searched for people to make me a solid or semisolid non hydraulic one but so far no dice.

      Yes the back of the bearing features a metallic ring that triggers the sensor for the ABS sensor in the wheels. Two things can happen - if the sensor isn't held down by the screw (they seize and have to be broken sometimes) it can vibrate it's way out of the knuckle and upward. Simply remove the wheel and look if it's raised up out of the knuckle, then a screw driver and a few light hammer taps and it's back in. Alternatively, on the fronts - the bearing can walk out of the knuckle and that created distance also triggers the anti skid/abs lights. There is a brace to help prevent this for $25 per front knuckle.

      The sound for the bad wheel bearing from the front can break down into two points - first the bearing can be crunchy - which can be felt by jacking up the car and turning the wheel by hand while having your other hand on the suspension coil spring. The crunch can be felt in the spring as the wheel turns. However alternatively, bad wheel bearings generate a hum as well that gets louder with speed.

      I use the autophix es610. It is the single best sub $100 handheld to interface with volvo specific modules and reset lights. For $150 you can get a dice clone that comes with a cracked version of VIDA 2014D. That means no software updates but all the diagnostics and parts diagrams and install instructions you can handle for one copy of Windows 7 Pro 32bit.

      Good luck.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 03-03-2020 at 11:30 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    13. #11
      Junior Member RestlessCylinder's Avatar
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      I've been pretty busy with work, but I managed to find some time to look over things a bit further. I removed the A pillars and found that the sunroof drain hoses on both sides had separated from the grommets and were draining into the car. Unfortunately it looks like the passenger side was dumping right onto the CEM, so I guess my first attempt at remedying that will be a good clean with electrical cleaner and then some deoxit gold for the electrical connections. There is quite a bit of visible mineral/dried up water deposits on the entire top side of the CEM. I was able to successfully unclog and reconnect the sunroof drains so they are functioning correctly once again. I purchased an OBD 2 scan tool and was able to pull some codes. The DEM could not be scanned and there is no communication between the DEM and CEM. Also the BCM is storing codes dealing with accelerometer (would that have any relation to the wheel speed sensor-there was a code that stated that mileage had been manipulated so it seemed like the wheel speed sensor at least at some point was not functioning correctly). I am definitely considering returning the OBD scan tool and just going all out on the Vida Dice after doing a bit more research. The car still has not leaked any more coolant and I've been driving it about 50 miles a day. Also, the car has started doing something weird with the boost pressure. Sometimes the car will fall flat on its face around 2000 or 3000 rpms, especially in first gear. The boost is cutting in and out quite frequently and with the intake noises it is easy to tell because even when cruising at the same throttle position there is frequent hissing and blowing noises, as well as the car suddenly feeling very quick or very slow. Thanks again for all the help guys, I know its a lot of information at once but I really appreciate the support and I'm doing my best to address everything that was suggested. I can't wait to get this car running perfect again!

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