Three problems at once
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    1. #1
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2019
      Location
      Ottawa, Ontario
      Posts
      87

      Three problems at once

      Having fixed my power steering a few weeks ago I was driving the car around this weekend.

      All of a sudden error#1 popped up, BCM-0020 Wheel sensor, right front Faulty signal.
      ABS and traction control lights are both on even after a restart and drive of the car.

      While driving it to see if the ABS error would go away I got some more errors. The screen in the car now says:

      ABS / Anti-Skid Service Required (Likely the BCM-0020)
      DTSC Spin Control Off (Likely BCM-0020 as well)
      BLIS Reduced Function (Cleaned the lenses... no difference)
      Headlamp Failure Service Required (When in "active bending" mode the green indicator led flashes)


      I don't think I fully understand how to clear all the codes and kind of reset the system. Some of these old inactive codes are from powering the car without a headlight or letting the battery get low while using VIDA. I now make sure to plug in a 8A or 12A charger while using the DICE/Vida setup.

      Fixes:
      ABS I ordered a $20 sensor to see if that fixes the issue (based on using the FORD part number instead of Volvo mentioned here in the forums).

      BLIS I don't really care about right now... maybe I need to drive it on the road with other cars for it to start working after cleaning the lenses.

      Headlights, I have the active bending xenons. I noticed both lights turn on but the driver side either seems pointed too low or perhaps is somehow dimmer than the rest. High beams seem fine. I am not sure if there should be a code if one of the motors goes bad? Based on the codes below it seems more like a communication issue rather than a hardware fault in the motors? The other problem is based on freeze frame data, I think these codes may be old and from when I powered the car up with the passenger headlight.



      BCM-0020 Wheel sensor, right front Faulty signal - ACTIVE
      BCM-0115 Communication between control units Communicational problems
      HCM-2287 Control module Communication fault - ACTIVE
      HCM-2987 Control module Communication fault
      HCM-DD11 LIN Communication fault

      Other interesting codes:
      ECM-618C Exhaust camshaft control during cold start
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

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    3. #2
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2019
      Location
      Ottawa, Ontario
      Posts
      87
      I managed to get my front right wheel sensor out. It did break upon first trying to pull it out. I don't have a replacement yet, but the long part was always going to be getting the old one out so I am glad that is out of the way.

      I ended up drilling a hole in the sensor and then using a #10 screw most of the way down into the sensor. You can see the hub/bottom of the sensor from the back of the hub so I made sure not to go too far and damage anything.

      I attached vice grips to the screw and kind of banged it and wiggled it up and out... took a while but I am pretty happy it came out.

      Sensor with harness disconnected:
      ABS_Sensor4.jpg

      Broken top half of sensor:
      ABS_Sensor3.jpg

      Vice grips over the screw I inserted into the sensor
      ABS_Sensor.jpg

      View from the back, bottom of sensor is sticking out, do not drill/screw past here:
      ABS_Sensor2.jpg


      Update: I called Ford to see what their price was. I saw in the previous thread here it was ~$20 for the part number BRAB374. They told me it is now BRAB531 and it was $60 Canadian. I ordered a $20 one from Amazon and will see how it works.
      Last edited by sirloins; 03-17-2020 at 11:36 AM.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    4. #3
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2019
      Location
      Ottawa, Ontario
      Posts
      87
      Installed the new sensor went for a quick drive and all my warnings disappeared. (ABS/SKID, BLIS, Headlamp)

      Now I'm not sure if the headlights are OK as I honestly don't know how to make them switch from DRL to the normal beam. My headlight switch has 4 positions.

      0 - Daytime lowered beam?
      1 - Parking lights?
      2 - Lowered beam?
      3 - Bending lights, but when I switch to this I don't see any height adjustment on them when pointed at a garage. I have seen them turn with the steering wheel.

      When do the lights raise/lower themselves? Is it always only automatically at night?

      Anyway, time to learn more about these headlights.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

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    6. #4
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Jun 2004
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      Eastern MA
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      8,964
      It's remotely possible that the headlights read the vehicle speed and adapt their behavior. The bogus values from the bad sensor may affect that controller differently from others.

      Personally I'd call it good and fugeddaboutit.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
      2016 XC60 T6 AWD
      1956 PV444 complete, running
      1956 PV444 very original, very rough

    7. #5
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2019
      Location
      Ottawa, Ontario
      Posts
      87
      Thanks!

      Yeah, I just checked now that it is dark out and both lights moved side to side and up/down as expected.

      All from an ABS Sensor.
      Just to note, I don't think the sensor part of the sensor failed, but one of the pins sort of just fell off of it while I was testing ohms/voltage. The pin looked fine aside from that, it wasn't visibly corroded.

      One of the headlight error codes I received (HCM-2987) said it could be caused: "Interrupted or missing communication with the Brake control module (BCM)" so it seems plausible.

      Case closed.
      Last edited by sirloins; 03-17-2020 at 07:50 PM.
      2010 V50 T5 AWD M66

    8. #6
      Awesome -
      So if you're ever interested in saving the sensors for removal - first thing I did was spray some liquid wrench or desired lube on it. Then I stuck a screw driver under the lip where the torx screw holds it down and GENTLY tapped it in with a hammer. This tapping caused it to lift up out of the hole. Applying force off the CV upward helps as well. Eventually with some spraying and gentle persuasion I managed to get all 4 of mine out without breaking any of them. It's a tight fit.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

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