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    Thread: Front End Clunk

    1. #1
      Junior Member Goots07's Avatar
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      Front End Clunk

      Hello Everyone,

      I have this front end clunk coming from the driver's side of my S60R. Thinking it was the strut mount, I replaced that on Tuesday. While the mount was pretty tore up and it did help reduce the noise, the noise is still there. Here is what I have replaced thus far in terms of suspension over the last 2 years or so:

      - Control Arms (IPD)
      - Ball Joints
      - CV Axles
      - Strut Mounts
      - Endlinks (IPD HD)
      - Wheel bearings

      Everything appears to be strong and tight with the exception of the outer passenger side tie-rod which I plan on replacing soon. The other tie rod is in good shape. The noise sounds like the when the endlinks were bad. I did not remove them but there was no play in them when I shook them. I am officially out of ideas and hope someone can help. Thank you.
      2005 Volvo S60R | Black Sapphire Metallic | Gobi
      1996 Volvo 850 | Champagne Metallic | Tan | RIP - The thing was a tank
      1980 Volvo 242 GT | Silver | Was brought home from the hospital in that car and still have it.

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    3. #2
      Junior Member TristanScott's Avatar
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      When does the clunk happen?
      The only clunks I've experienced were from bad ball joints, or the lower transmission torque mount going bad in which case you'd be getting clunks during gear shifts or loading/unloading the drivetrain rapidly.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
      2004 S60R M66 Electric Silver Nordkap
      Stage 2 Contrast Tune, Snabb Intercooler/Charge Pipes/Tial Recirc, Snabb Downpipe, IPD Catback
      KW V2s, Kaplhenke Front Strut Mounts with 2.5" springs, PDV Rear Strut Mounts with KW springs, IPD V70R Track Spec Sway Bars, IPD Rear Toe Links, Kaplhenke Delrin Front Subframe Bushings, Powerflex Race Bushings almost everywhere
      TTV SMF with 06/07 Volvo Clutch, IPD SS Brake Lines

      FOR SALE (2/22/20) - Save her from the scrap yard: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ring-Overhaul)
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    4. #3
      Junior Member Goots07's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by TristanScott View Post
      When does the clunk happen?
      The only clunks I've experienced were from bad ball joints, or the lower transmission torque mount going bad in which case you'd be getting clunks during gear shifts or loading/unloading the drivetrain rapidly.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
      The clunk happens when going over small bumps in the road. It does not happen during shifting.
      2005 Volvo S60R | Black Sapphire Metallic | Gobi
      1996 Volvo 850 | Champagne Metallic | Tan | RIP - The thing was a tank
      1980 Volvo 242 GT | Silver | Was brought home from the hospital in that car and still have it.

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    6. #4
      Junior Member TristanScott's Avatar
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      It sounds like you replaced the things that may cause it. I bet something is loose or not put together right, no offense. Double check the endlinks aren't loose. Also check that the whole strut mount/spring seat assembly is correct. There's another thread going on right now where somebody was dealing with something similar and found out a shop had missed a certain part in that whole assembly which caused an issue.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
      2004 S60R M66 Electric Silver Nordkap
      Stage 2 Contrast Tune, Snabb Intercooler/Charge Pipes/Tial Recirc, Snabb Downpipe, IPD Catback
      KW V2s, Kaplhenke Front Strut Mounts with 2.5" springs, PDV Rear Strut Mounts with KW springs, IPD V70R Track Spec Sway Bars, IPD Rear Toe Links, Kaplhenke Delrin Front Subframe Bushings, Powerflex Race Bushings almost everywhere
      TTV SMF with 06/07 Volvo Clutch, IPD SS Brake Lines

      FOR SALE (2/22/20) - Save her from the scrap yard: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ring-Overhaul)
      2004 V70 2.4 NA AW-55 FWD Ruby Red Metallic

    7. #5
      Junior Member Goots07's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by TristanScott View Post
      It sounds like you replaced the things that may cause it. I bet something is loose or not put together right, no offense. Double check the endlinks aren't loose. Also check that the whole strut mount/spring seat assembly is correct. There's another thread going on right now where somebody was dealing with something similar and found out a shop had missed a certain part in that whole assembly which caused an issue.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
      No offense taken. I took a wrench to the nuts on the endlinks and they did not even budge. I might remove the endlinks and see if they have any play like the old ones did when I switched them out. I have never heard a bad thing about IPD's HD links.
      2005 Volvo S60R | Black Sapphire Metallic | Gobi
      1996 Volvo 850 | Champagne Metallic | Tan | RIP - The thing was a tank
      1980 Volvo 242 GT | Silver | Was brought home from the hospital in that car and still have it.

    8. #6
      Member IwantaS60R's Avatar
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      So I just finished chasing down something similar. Mine was a combination of endlinks AND swaybar bushings. If you have an aftermarket sway bar check your bushings. Stock ones can also go bad. This has not only removed the clunk but also significantly tightened the front end.
      HERS - 2019 XC90 T6
      MINE - 2004 S60R : List of modifications - PhMIC, EST grille, K&N filter w/velocity stack, Eibach springs, iPd rear camber bushings, ELEVATE front and rear sways, Powerflex front LCA bushings, superflex rear LCA bushings, Turbo back exhaust, Aquamist, TWM short shifter, TWM shift knob (Big Type R), Black Forgestar F14 18x8.5 wheels, roof spoiler

    9. #7
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      I had a clunk just like that, it was loose strut tower bar bolts, the last moron to work on the car (me) had forgotten to fully tighten them.
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

    10. #8
      Junior Member Goots07's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by IwantaS60R View Post
      So I just finished chasing down something similar. Mine was a combination of endlinks AND swaybar bushings. If you have an aftermarket sway bar check your bushings. Stock ones can also go bad. This has not only removed the clunk but also significantly tightened the front end.
      Interesting. I will have to check out the swaybar bushings. How easy/hard is it to replace those? Replacing the swaybar itself looks light a nightmare.
      2005 Volvo S60R | Black Sapphire Metallic | Gobi
      1996 Volvo 850 | Champagne Metallic | Tan | RIP - The thing was a tank
      1980 Volvo 242 GT | Silver | Was brought home from the hospital in that car and still have it.

    11. #9
      Junior Member TristanScott's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Goots07 View Post
      Interesting. I will have to check out the swaybar bushings. How easy/hard is it to replace those? Replacing the swaybar itself looks light a nightmare.
      They're vulcanized to the bar if I remember right so it'd be easier to replace the bar at that point.

      It's really not that bad. Gets your feet wet with how the whole front end is laid out.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
      2004 S60R M66 Electric Silver Nordkap
      Stage 2 Contrast Tune, Snabb Intercooler/Charge Pipes/Tial Recirc, Snabb Downpipe, IPD Catback
      KW V2s, Kaplhenke Front Strut Mounts with 2.5" springs, PDV Rear Strut Mounts with KW springs, IPD V70R Track Spec Sway Bars, IPD Rear Toe Links, Kaplhenke Delrin Front Subframe Bushings, Powerflex Race Bushings almost everywhere
      TTV SMF with 06/07 Volvo Clutch, IPD SS Brake Lines

      FOR SALE (2/22/20) - Save her from the scrap yard: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ring-Overhaul)
      2004 V70 2.4 NA AW-55 FWD Ruby Red Metallic

    12. #10
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      Sway bar bushings. Good luck, have to drop the subframe to get at them.

    13. #11
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      Front lower control arms will also do this, I know you mentioned IPD, but might be worth checking for play - those seem to get mixed reviews.
      05 V70R BSM, 6MT

    14. #12
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      I 2nd sway bar bushings..... often overlooked and a hidden culprit.


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      06 VR GT - daily driver ~18" TSW Nurburgring wheels ~Contrast Stage 4 ~Shimmed block ~EFR7163 turbo ~1050cc Injectors ~TorqByte PM3 fuel pump and CM5-LT W/M controllers ~track spec IPD Bars ~Ultra Racing front strut bar & VST rear strut bar ~SS brake lines~Innovate Boost & AFR fail safe

    15. #13
      Member esmith813's Avatar
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      When I had a clunk that wouldn't go away, replacing my outer tie rod fixed it. I'd say replace that as planned and see if that was your source before jumping into dropping the sub frame for sway bars. Unless you want to upgrade of course.
      2006 S60R MT Sonic Blue with Atacama - Garage Queen
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    16. #14
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      FCP had a post on how to replace sway bar bushings rather than the whole shebang, anyone ever tried that? I'm curious myself.

      https://blog.fcpeuro.com/the-trick-t...0-xc70-s60-s80

    17. #15
      Junior Member Goots07's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by esmith813 View Post
      When I had a clunk that wouldn't go away, replacing my outer tie rod fixed it. I'd say replace that as planned and see if that was your source before jumping into dropping the sub frame for sway bars. Unless you want to upgrade of course.
      Well I am always down for an upgrade. My wallet... not so much. This is good stuff everyone. Thank you. I do not think it is the LCA bushings. I checked those over pretty well. I did not check the sway bar bushings. I will soon. I might pull the endlinks as well to see if they are shot as opposed to just trying to tighten them.
      2005 Volvo S60R | Black Sapphire Metallic | Gobi
      1996 Volvo 850 | Champagne Metallic | Tan | RIP - The thing was a tank
      1980 Volvo 242 GT | Silver | Was brought home from the hospital in that car and still have it.

    18. #16
      Junior Member Goots07's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by kartner View Post
      FCP had a post on how to replace sway bar bushings rather than the whole shebang, anyone ever tried that? I'm curious myself.

      https://blog.fcpeuro.com/the-trick-t...0-xc70-s60-s80
      I would be curious about this as well. I know this FCP post is for the rear but are the fronts that easy?
      2005 Volvo S60R | Black Sapphire Metallic | Gobi
      1996 Volvo 850 | Champagne Metallic | Tan | RIP - The thing was a tank
      1980 Volvo 242 GT | Silver | Was brought home from the hospital in that car and still have it.

    19. #17
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Goots07 View Post
      I would be curious about this as well. I know this FCP post is for the rear but are the fronts that easy?
      Not a hard job, but also not trivial. Spend a couple hundred dollar a upgrade the sway bar if you’re in there. You’ll need to support the engine and drop the rear of the subframe, but it’s worth it.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      06 VR GT - daily driver ~18" TSW Nurburgring wheels ~Contrast Stage 4 ~Shimmed block ~EFR7163 turbo ~1050cc Injectors ~TorqByte PM3 fuel pump and CM5-LT W/M controllers ~track spec IPD Bars ~Ultra Racing front strut bar & VST rear strut bar ~SS brake lines~Innovate Boost & AFR fail safe

    20. #18
      Junior Member TristanScott's Avatar
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      IPDs bar has some good instructions. Go download them from the product page if they're still there and see if you can handle it.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
      2004 S60R M66 Electric Silver Nordkap
      Stage 2 Contrast Tune, Snabb Intercooler/Charge Pipes/Tial Recirc, Snabb Downpipe, IPD Catback
      KW V2s, Kaplhenke Front Strut Mounts with 2.5" springs, PDV Rear Strut Mounts with KW springs, IPD V70R Track Spec Sway Bars, IPD Rear Toe Links, Kaplhenke Delrin Front Subframe Bushings, Powerflex Race Bushings almost everywhere
      TTV SMF with 06/07 Volvo Clutch, IPD SS Brake Lines

      FOR SALE (2/22/20) - Save her from the scrap yard: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ring-Overhaul)
      2004 V70 2.4 NA AW-55 FWD Ruby Red Metallic

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