IPD camber bushings
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    1. #1
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      IPD camber bushings

      What did those that installed these use? Is it just a ball joint press?

      Thank you

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    3. #2
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      NVM, I found the pictures Dougy posted further down the tech write up, that will work.

    4. #3
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      Post it to refresh the community lol

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    6. #4
      Junior Member TristanScott's Avatar
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      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
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    7. #5
      Member maronha's Avatar
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      I had my Indy do mine. Wasnít something I wanted to wrestle with.


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      Last edited by maronha; 04-01-2020 at 04:59 PM.
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    8. #6
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      [QUOTE=maronha;7548945]I had my Indy do mine. Wasnít someone wanted to wrest with.

      Agreed. I also had an Indy install mine. I'm not wrench, just a dRiveR. After having those, a set of IPD lowering springs, and other related accessories (see signature) installed, I immediately got a 4 wheel alignment and a had SUM calibration performed. Since then (April 2017), I haven't had any camber or toe-related issues with heR.
      Best of luck to you with your project.
      2005 M66 V70R, Silver/Nordkap, DO88 Intercooler, Vibrant 17950 Stainless Steel Resonator, IPD downpipe, cat back exhaust, throttle & turbo inlet tubes, inlet coupler, F&R end links, F&R anti-sway bars, poly subframe bushing inserts, and adjustable rear camber bushings, VIVA (UR) Front Strut Bar, Rear Cross Brace, & Tower Conversion Kit, Performance Led Bulb Upgrade Kit , Brembo DRT Drilled/Slotted Rotors (F&R), Akebono Ceramic pads, K&N Filter, Pioneer App Radio 4, Dynomat (Doors and cargo area), Factory Sub and NAV.

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    9. #7
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      I used a ball joint press. Not a bad job using a lift. Front trailing arm bushings and IPd toe bars made it a different car.


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    10. #8
      Junior Member TristanScott's Avatar
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      Yeah I got mine out with a ball joint c clamp tool as well. I put powerflex bushes in there as I was planning to do adjustable rear lower control arms to deal with the camber but I think now I'm going to settle for these stupid camber bushings cuz I'm not at that point yet to where I want to take on a custom project like that or pay someone to fab them.

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      2004 S60R M66 Electric Silver Nordkap
      Stage 2 Contrast Tune, Snabb Intercooler/Charge Pipes/Tial Recirc, Snabb Downpipe, IPD Catback
      KW V2s, Kaplhenke Front Strut Mounts with 2.5" springs, PDV Rear Strut Mounts with KW springs, IPD V70R Track Spec Sway Bars, IPD Rear Toe Links, Kaplhenke Delrin Front Subframe Bushings, Powerflex Race Bushings almost everywhere
      TTV SMF with 06/07 Volvo Clutch, IPD SS Brake Lines

      FOR SALE (2/22/20) - Save her from the scrap yard: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ring-Overhaul)
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    11. #9
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by TristanScott View Post
      Yeah I got mine out with a ball joint c clamp tool as well. I put powerflex bushes in there as I was planning to do adjustable rear lower control arms to deal with the camber but I think now I'm going to settle for these stupid camber bushings cuz I'm not at that point yet to where I want to take on a custom project like that or pay someone to fab them.

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
      I have a design for a lower control arm mod if your interested. I also dislike these bushings, but never got around to prototyping the control arm design.


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      06 VR GT - daily driver ~18" TSW Nurburgring wheels ~Contrast Stage 4 ~Shimmed block ~EFR7163 turbo ~1050cc Injectors ~TorqByte PM3 fuel pump and CM5-LT W/M controllers ~track spec IPD Bars ~Ultra Racing front strut bar & VST rear strut bar ~SS brake lines~Innovate Boost & AFR fail safe

    12. #10
      Junior Member TristanScott's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Austin V70R View Post
      I have a design for a lower control arm mod if your interested. I also dislike these bushings, but never got around to prototyping the control arm design.


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      PMd you

      Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
      2004 S60R M66 Electric Silver Nordkap
      Stage 2 Contrast Tune, Snabb Intercooler/Charge Pipes/Tial Recirc, Snabb Downpipe, IPD Catback
      KW V2s, Kaplhenke Front Strut Mounts with 2.5" springs, PDV Rear Strut Mounts with KW springs, IPD V70R Track Spec Sway Bars, IPD Rear Toe Links, Kaplhenke Delrin Front Subframe Bushings, Powerflex Race Bushings almost everywhere
      TTV SMF with 06/07 Volvo Clutch, IPD SS Brake Lines

      FOR SALE (2/22/20) - Save her from the scrap yard: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ring-Overhaul)
      2004 V70 2.4 NA AW-55 FWD Ruby Red Metallic

    13. #11
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Austin V70R View Post
      I used a ball joint press. Not a bad job using a lift. Front trailing arm bushings and IPd toe bars made it a different car.


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      Was thinking about the toe bars as they are on sale right now. And if I have to remove it anyway..

    14. #12
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      I found a 30mm socket that fit the bushing perfectly and a large axle nut socket from a Wagoneer that will work for the out side. Bought some grade 8 all thread and nuts. Now I just have to drill two holes in some plate steel pieces I have and.. Voila!

    15. #13
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      Iím going to bump this up.

      Iíve called 5 shops in the area and nobody wants to help. Iíve refreshed my whole suspension so I guess it canít be too bad reading these threads. Is the general consensus to max out the bushing installation at 1.5 degrees? I havenít taken the VR out to the alignment shop yet because I want figure these bushings out first.

    16. #14
      I maxed mine out. Technically, you should find out what your current rear camber is first, then do it, but most of the time the rear camber is pretty atrocious on these things.

      Would be easier to do the job on a lift -- i had a mobile mechanic do it with a floor jack. Let's just say that was some of the best 200 bucks i've spent. Twas a total PITA

    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by gottarollwithit View Post
      I maxed mine out. Technically, you should find out what your current rear camber is first, then do it, but most of the time the rear camber is pretty atrocious on these things.

      Would be easier to do the job on a lift -- i had a mobile mechanic do it with a floor jack. Let's just say that was some of the best 200 bucks i've spent. Twas a total PITA
      Thank you. I surprised nobody wants to do it. But I've changed out a lot on my VR (collar sleeve, pcv, 4c's, springs, etc). So I somewhat competent and pretty good at swearing. From what I've read most are in the -1.5-to high 2's after lowering. I think I'll give it a shot and install them at full max.

    18. #16
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      Im on eibach springs and I had it aligned recently, Im sitting at 2 Deg on each side. I (when I get around to it) will set them at max.

    19. #17
      Quote Originally Posted by gottarollwithit View Post
      I maxed mine out. Technically, you should find out what your current rear camber is first, then do it, but most of the time the rear camber is pretty atrocious on these things.

      Would be easier to do the job on a lift -- i had a mobile mechanic do it with a floor jack. Let's just say that was some of the best 200 bucks i've spent. Twas a total PITA
      Second the TOTAL PITA. I replaced every suspension bushing including the ones on the adjustable uppers with PowerFlex. Used a lathe to get a socket to fit a couple spots. Used a torch to heat up the metal casing just before pressing. Burr grinder here and there. Pneumatic saw to cut out a couple of the sleeves. Small rotary sander to clean the insides of the sleeves. And they sent the wrong diameter sleeve for front lower rears so back to the lathe. Lots of Lucas red-n-tacky and Teflon tape. Oh yeah-a whole lotta choice swearing and a partridge in a pear tree. Would I do it again.....absolutely.


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    20. #18
      Member Body Massage's Avatar
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      Weren't these the bushings where some people cracked their subframes?

      Also, just saw this kit up on Viva: https://www.vivaperformance.com/rear...-s80-xc90-awd/

      I use IPD's toe bars on my R. With the toe zeroed out, I haven't had any bad tire wear at ~-2.5 camber. But those bushing look like you'd be able to adjust camber after installing the bushings.
      2005 V70R

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    21. #19
      Not sure. Seems like there was another underlying issue if replacing some bushes cracked a subframe.
      Hereís what I used.



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    22. #20
      Quote Originally Posted by Body Massage View Post
      Weren't these the bushings where some people cracked their subframes?

      Also, just saw this kit up on Viva: https://www.vivaperformance.com/rear...-s80-xc90-awd/

      I use IPD's toe bars on my R. With the toe zeroed out, I haven't had any bad tire wear at ~-2.5 camber. But those bushing look like you'd be able to adjust camber after installing the bushings.
      No catastrophic damage to mine yet using the iPd rear camber bushings....
      When on jackstands (would be easier using a proper lift), my mobile mechanic had a hell of a time, even with access to a garage full of tools. Ended up sawing, torching, and hammering for a looong time. I'd imagine having more leverage and access if on a lift

    23. #21
      Member FORD420diesel's Avatar
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      What's the part number on that, and it installed onto the rear camber bushing location on the P2 R?

      Quote Originally Posted by paradoxicallymodified View Post
      Not sure. Seems like there was another underlying issue if replacing some bushes cracked a subframe.
      Hereís what I used.



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    24. #22
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      I think you said the indy HATED doing it too. Bob?
      FWIW, I feel lucky, but my tires (with a dealer alignment) wear very well.
      I am due for a rotation and have my sleeved sockets to use to avoid scratching the wheels.
      Quote Originally Posted by maronha View Post
      I had my Indy do mine. Wasnít something I wanted to wrestle with.
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    25. #23
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by FORD420diesel View Post
      What's the part number on that, and it installed onto the rear camber bushing location on the P2 R?

      https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...BoC9hgQAvD_BwE

    26. #24
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      Finished up after 5 hours or so. Part of that was with some snags and having to run to Autozone. I called 8 places in the Atlanta area. No one wanted to do it. Wasn't as bad of a job as I thought it would be. I'll share some thoughts that might help others.

      Autozone rents out a ball joint press that works out for this job. Part # on the right


      I bought a 1-5/16 socket that fits the bushing perfectly. Passenger side was a breeze. Pressed directly on the center of the bushing and popped right out. The driver's was a bit more challenging and had to work some magic. Got it half way out and wasn't budging. So I finished it off with a BFH and pounded it out. Driver bushing on the left.



      Installation wasn't too bad. Doing it solo can make it tough. Pro tip- any job that requires pressing in throw the bushing (or BJ, etc) in the freezer. Makes it slightly easier to press in. Aligning the holes for the long bolt I used a couple jacks to maneuver the arm up and down and to the sides. As some, I only unbolted the toe arm and control arm.



      I guesstimated my camber. Went full correction with the install. It seems good and will get an alignment soon.

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