Strut replacement, remove axle?
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    1. #1
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      Strut replacement, remove axle?

      So I guess my Corona check is going straight to Rock Auto. I ordered struts and shocks and they are coming today. Bilstein B4.

      Been watching videos on this and some people remove the axle bolt and even pop the ball joint. Is this needed? Or even recommended?

      I still have the ball joint tool because I just did the LCAs...

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    3. #2
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      Quote Originally Posted by bbrages View Post
      So I guess my Corona check is going straight to Rock Auto. I ordered struts and shocks and they are coming today. Bilstein B4.

      Been watching videos on this and some people remove the axle bolt and even pop the ball joint. Is this needed? Or even recommended?

      I still have the ball joint tool because I just did the LCAs...
      Definitely remove the axle bolt prior to removing the strut. I didn't and one of my CV joints popped out. It would be best to replace the axle bolts with new ones (part 30640878). The old ones have been known to break when being reinstalled. Disconnecting the ball joint would make removal of the strut assembly easier.

      Not really part of your question, but if I were to do this job again I would remove the axle bolt, disconnect the outer tie rod (you have to do this anyways), remove the ball joint from the spindle, and then remove brake caliper, pads and possibly the rotor. Don't forget to unplug the ABS sensor. After that you would just take the strut assembly out of the car with the spindle still attached and deal with it outside the car. The other method of removal works fine too, but it can be really annoying to deal with a spindle under tension due to the control arm.
      2004 S60 2.5t (2014-2015)
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    4. #3
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      FWIW, I have done 3 P1 strut replacements without removing the axle bolt or popping the joint. I was extremely careful not to over extend anything, but you never know.
      Logan

      2015 S60 T6 AWD R-Design Polestar
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    6. #4
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
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      I never remove the axle, and yes keeping it bolted in can stress the boot, and I have torn boots that way.

      A compromise I've had success with is undoing the axle bolt most of the way and using that slack to push the axle partway back through the knuckle, easing some of the stress that results from dropping the knuckle off the strut assembly.
      Last edited by lunalolvo; 04-01-2020 at 10:21 AM.

    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by lunalolvo View Post
      I never remove the axle, and yes keeping it bolted in can stress the boot, and I have torn boots that way.

      A compromise I've had success with is undoing the axle bolt most of the way and using that slack to push the axle partway back through the knuckle, easing some of the stress that results from dropping the knuckle off the strut assembly.
      What do you retorque the axle bolts to? I believe they are torque to yield...?

      I just rebooted a couple of years ago, so my boots are in good shape. As are my 2-year-old axle bolts, lol.

    8. #6
      Junior Member rocketscience55's Avatar
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      Here you go for removing the strut in only a few minutes. And second link is torque details, first picture (35ft lbs plus 90deg turn)

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-swy5KB-DM

      https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
      2005 S40 M66, stock
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    9. #7
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      I don't think 35 ft-lb plus 90° is a good idea if you are re-using the TTY axle bolts though. Found a video by autodoc.co.uk that looked good. They reused the axle bolts and torqued to 60 Nm (44 ft-lb).

    10. #8
      Junior Member rocketscience55's Avatar
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      I removed my axle about a 3 weeks ago now, not realizing they were torque to yield bolts but I did the 35ft-lbs plus 90deg and haven't had issues. I'll likely just buy 4 of these bolts to use when needed in the future.
      2005 S40 M66, stock
      2019 XC40 T4 FWD, Momentum with Premium and Vision Package - Hers
      2013 C30 Polestar #141/250, Mototech exhaust, Volvo Skid Plate, RacingBeat RSB, - Sold
      1997 Volvo 850 N/A with 240k, 1 owner, SOLD 2017
      2000 C70 Convertible 5sp HPT, SOLD 2011

    11. #9
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      I'm not sure they are TTY, I just assumed it from the torque+angle torque spec.

    12. #10
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
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      I believe they are (at least I heard it somewhere), and have successfully being ignoring it. Did the same as above, to spec + 90 degrees, no issues to report.

    13. #11
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      It’s 35nm or 25 ftlbs + 90 from what I recall.

    14. #12
      Junior Member edgar.a.montoya@gmail.com's Avatar
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      i just did my struts a few weeks ago and from removing the tire to finish it only took me 20 min after figuring it out. The drivers side took me almost 2 hours though, as i figured how to do it. Just add a little pb blast to bottom of strut, remove outer tie rod, disconnect sensor, remove single bolt holding bottom of strut, use a 2.5-5lb sledge and remove the bottom part first. then remove the top 3 bolts and drop the whole thing. I didn't have any issues with cv axles coming off or damaging them. My car was aligned fine, no sounds coming from the bottom. Disconnecting the axle and ball joint is correct way, as far as I know, and will ensure you don't cause damage to anything else. Had I waited until I changed out the LCA a few weeks later, Id have gone that route. But I am impatient.

    15. #13
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      Just took mine out, removed the axle bolt but not the tie rod or ball joint. Used the mini sledge. Not bad at all.

    16. #14
      Quote Originally Posted by bbrages View Post
      Just took mine out, removed the axle bolt but not the tie rod or ball joint. Used the mini sledge. Not bad at all.
      +1 - what I did.
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    17. #15
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      Any tricks reinserting the new strut into the knuckle?

      I have heard the Blisteins are extra tight, and FCP recommends hitting the inside of the knuckle with a flap disc. I have a wire wheel I'm going to use.

      Speaking of time, I think I got both struts out in about 45 minutes, starting with car on jackstands and wheels off. Plus I have a strut tower brace to deal with. So I'm going to call myself the champ.

      I have some rust on my springs so dealing with that is going to slow the project down a lot...

    18. #16
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
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      Sandpaper on the inside of the knuckle + lubricant of some kind has worked every time for me when the strut was hesitant to slide down.

    19. #17
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      Do you jack up the knuckle to get it to go, or is it supposed to just slip in?

    20. #18
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      I'm also having an issue getting the strut the final 1/4 inch into the knuckle.

      Watching and reading the tutorials make it look so easy. Guess we aren't all that lucky or really even know what we're doing. I hit the inside of the knuckle with rust penetrate and wiped them out and lubed up my struts but didn't think of wire brushing the knuckle.

      I haven't seen much stuff about actually putting the strut back in either. The Chris Fix video where he does front struts on a Madza 3 might be the only video I saw. And his slipped in easily.

      https://youtu.be/cI3EDqzOghc?t=376

    21. #19
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      There is a tool in the moose tech video you can make from an 8mm Allen wrench to spread out the clamp and get it to fit.

    22. #20
      Junior Member lunalolvo's Avatar
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      I usually use gentle jack pressure under the control arm/ball joint, tapping the sides of the knuckle with the same hammer I got it off with in the first place. Haven't been able to do it without.

    23. #21
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      These guys use a wire brush and wd 40:

      https://youtu.be/BNVtzZ1aayg

    24. #22
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      The VW guys also will drive a 3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter into the crack and spread the clamp by turning the adapter. I'm going to try that.

    25. #23
      Junior Member LMGVolvo's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by bbrages View Post
      These guys use a wire brush and wd 40:

      https://youtu.be/BNVtzZ1aayg
      That is a great video. Thanks!
      2005 S40 2.4i (200k)

    26. #24
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      I get the concept of the pry tool in the Moosetech vid.

      And upon Googling, it's just a low-tech homemade steering knuckle spreader. And that they sell socket wrench tools for the VW guys. (I didn't know these tools existed)


    27. #25
      Quote Originally Posted by lunalolvo View Post
      I usually use gentle jack pressure under the control arm/ball joint, tapping the sides of the knuckle with the same hammer I got it off with in the first place. Haven't been able to do it without.
      +1 what I do. Healthy amount of anti-seize on the inside of the strut hole.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 04-02-2020 at 12:16 PM.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
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    28. #26
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      I just tried the 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and it seems like it would fit perfectly. Will grind down an Allen key if that doesn't get it.

    29. #27
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    30. #28
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      Very nice!

    31. #29
      Junior Member rocketscience55's Avatar
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      Nice photo of spreading it. Will that pose an issue with installing the new strut? They have a metal notch that needs to fit in that slot and it looks like the adapter might get in the way.
      2005 S40 M66, stock
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    32. #30
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      I think you could put the adapter at the bottom of the slot. We'll see...

    33. #31
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      I'm confident that it will fit at the bottom. And obviously it has to go below the bolt because of the guide on the back of the strut. I was skeptical that the square socket wrench drive would hold at 45 degrees across the hypotenuse but bbrages got it to work. The modified allen has 2 flat sides. I'm going to try that after supper.

    34. #32
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      It's a use for all those loose hex keys they throw in socket sets to get the piece count up!

    35. #33
      Junior Member rocketscience55's Avatar
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      I'd tend to agree, the bottom of the strut has a cutout for the bolt so this should be a good spot for it. And yea who actually uses those allen keys? I bought a set of sockets and t-handles almost right away and haven't used them since.
      2005 S40 M66, stock
      2019 XC40 T4 FWD, Momentum with Premium and Vision Package - Hers
      2013 C30 Polestar #141/250, Mototech exhaust, Volvo Skid Plate, RacingBeat RSB, - Sold
      1997 Volvo 850 N/A with 240k, 1 owner, SOLD 2017
      2000 C70 Convertible 5sp HPT, SOLD 2011

    36. #34
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      After you've pried open the knuckle with the drive, you should be able to slide the 8mm hex in there. In case the drive doesn't hold while you're putting in the strut.

    37. #35
      Member thefisch33's Avatar
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      Strut replacement, remove axle?

      Warning about over torquing the axle bolt. 25 ft lbs it will shear off at 26ft lbs. I've never removed the axel or taken out the axle bolt to get the strut out fwiw.
      2010 s40 T5 AWD M66 a tribute to Heico's ODIN HS4

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