S60 05' Wont start!
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    1. #1
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      S60 05' Wont start!

      Hi,

      On my way to work a couple of weeks ago I went out to start my beloved S60, like I do almost everyday of the month. But on this cold and rainy morning my dear car wouldn't start. Everything sounded normal until the engine had taken two "turns", at this moment I heard a "wooof" sound, and then it felt like I lost all of the compression. At first I thought it might be the timing belt that had snapped, or that the starter had been broken. But the belt was all good, and so was the starter. But the problem remains. These are the things I have checked and verified:

      - Fuelpump is good
      - All sparkplugs ignite (And were "humid" from fuel)
      - There Is fuel present in all cylinders when cranking the engine
      - Timing belt is in good shape

      So now I've comed to a stand still. But I stumbled upon this thread about lawnmower syndrome. So I will try this trick about putting some oil in each cylinder, in order to "regain" the compression. I want to give this a try, but wanted to "consult" with someone that has a little more experience than me, before I end up doing any permanent damage to my car :P Any tips or tricks to get my car going again will be highly appreciated, thanks!

      Also, here's a vid showing the problem (I also noticed that the timing belt gear "wobles" back and forth a bit, but I dont know if this is normal when crancking?)

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    3. #2
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      Compression. Fuel. Ignition. The rest is Timing.

      If you've got compression and your plugs are wet start looking at Ignition. Cam sensor/Crank sensor.

    4. #3
      Junior Member Orange's Avatar
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      Of course, just guesses, but the belt looks quite offset on the cam gears, could it be it did jump a few teeth ? Timing marks aligned ? It's a weird sound and I even may hear a small knocking - hopefully not valves hitting pistons. Worth removing the side cover and looking at the tensioner and even at the water pump

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    6. #4
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      S60 05' Wont start!

      Is the car a turbo - could not tell from video. If so, are both ends of the charge pipe connected? Has the rubber sleeve at end of charge pipe split? Sound fine to me, just slow to turn over due to battery now being tired. Have you removed the air filter to be sure there are no obstructions? Have you inspected all rubber hoses to make sure none are split? Has the CEL come on?


      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      2010 V70 3.2 125,000miles
      2002 V70XC, 175,000 miles
      2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000 miles

    7. #5
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      I think I see the OTE pipe screw missing. Looks like the pipe is uninstalled if so.
      Do the NA cars have that screw at the front of the motor?
      Quote Originally Posted by bigtimemcalpine View Post
      Is the car a turbo - could not tell from video. If so, are both ends of the charge pipe connected? Has the rubber sleeve at end of charge pipe split? Sound fine to me, just slow to turn over due to battery now being tired. Have you removed the air filter to be sure there are no obstructions? Have you inspected all rubber hoses to make sure none are split? Has the CEL come on?


      2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by Krist0ffer View Post
      engine had taken two "turns", at this moment I heard a "wooof" sound, and then it felt like I lost all of the compression.

      - Timing belt is in good shape

      here's a vid showing the problem
      The sound on your video is of an engine with no compression. I would check the compression first, then the cam timing - (unfortunately if it changed enough you have bent valves)

      A squirt of oil is not going to bring back compression on a solid lifter engine (the earlier 5 cyl cars with hydraulic lifters were prone to "losing compression" but not after about 1999)
      Last edited by hoonk; 04-15-2020 at 09:27 AM.

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
      The sound on your video is of an engine with no compression. I would check the compression first, then the cam timing - (unfortunately if it changed enough you have bent valves)

      A squirt of oil is not going to bring back compression on a solid lifter engine (the earlier 5 cyl cars with hydraulic lifters were prone to "losing compression" but not after about 1999)
      That's what I'm hearing as well. Do a compression check. Probably the first cylinder you try will read zero. I'm guessing the timing belt jumped.

    10. #8
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      Hi guys! I’m back with a little update on the situation. And btw, Thank you all, for all the replies so far. It gives me a lot of motivation seeing all of the advices and tips I’ve gotten so far! I’m by far any born car guy, just a regular guy with average knowledge. But I’m trying my best to understand and learn from this process. And so far it’s been quite educational on my behalf. So please correct me if I make any weird statements or conclusions ;P

      I forgot to mention in the first post. But this is a 2.0T petrol engine, that has been running for about 210.000KM. I’ve not experienced any kind of problems with the car before this problem occured (I’m from Norway btw, so I’m sorry if there is any bad English/formulation here. Just ask If I need to clarify anything)

      So since I have no compression at all (Not measured, but judging from the sound and the “resistance” in the engine, there is absolutely no compression there) So me and a colleague decided to open the top cover in order to inspect the camshafts (He is far more into car and engines than me, so he has provided some very valuable help so far) So we took off the timing belt as well in order to inspect both the exhaust and the intake cams. And we couldn’t see any obvious damage on any of the cams. And it seemed to be good lubrication, judging from the amount of oil that was lying in the in the camshaft housing. There was a little bit of “slack” on both of the cam “gear-wheels”, but it was the same on both cams. So we kinda jumped to the conclusion that this was the normal state for this type of camshaft. We didn’t check any valve clearance, as the cams looked good. But looking back, we absolutely should have done that. So we put the camshafts back in place, and mounted the top cover back on. We then timed the engine up again, before trying to start the engine. The result was the same: No compression.

      So I decided to bring my car down to my local car workshop. I told them about the problem, and asked if they could confirm if we had gotten the timing right. It proved that we missed by 1 step/tooth on the timing (My bad :P) But the mechanic said, that these engines usually can be 2-3 steps off, without any damage occurring. So hopefully we didn’t damge anything more in this process. The mechanics called me after a couple of hours, and could tell that the exhaust cam was broken, or had jumped off :/ But we found this quite strange considering the cam looked in good condition when we inspected it. They had just inspected the exhaust cam on the cam sensor side, and couldn’t see any rotation. So our inspection probably wasn’t good enough. So my thought is that the cam “gear-wheel” is turning, but is not bringing the camshaft rod around.(I didn't want them to open the engine, because car workshops are hella expensive here in Norway :P) Possible tear or breakage between the gear-wheel and the cam-rod transition(?) So my valves are probably bent But I just find it very weird that I’ve not experienced any weird sounds from the engine. But there might not always be noise from the engine, even though the valves are “crushed/bent”? And if so, wouldn’t there only be damage on 1-3 cylinders? And I would still experience some kind of compression on 1 or 2 cylinders? I also find it hard that the timing belt jumped, since it was tight, dry and in good shape. But of course it can be the cause of failure. So now I’m probably looking for a new engine.. But I really want to find the cause of failure to learn from this situation. So I will try to open the top cover again for a new inspection when I get the time.

      Best regards Kristoffer

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by Krist0ffer View Post
      So now I’m probably looking for a new engine..
      You usually can just have a valve job done, replacing the bent valves. That would be much less complex and less expensive than an engine replacement. There will be small dents in the tops of the pistons, but those have not proven to be a problem in the 2.4/5 liter cars we have in the US.

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