DIY Subwoofer - 2018 XC60
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    1. #1
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      DIY Subwoofer - 2018 XC60

      2018 XC60 Subwoofer Project.
      First of all, I give massive credit to mark-sf for his initial excellent article on constructing the subwoofer for the earlier XC60, the guidance on amplifier and speaker selection, wiring and installation (https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...to-the-Low-End). I was really keen to go the same route as Mark, wanting a stealth installation and not needing massive bass like years gone by. All of the success criteria that he laid down appealed to me and after reading the article many times, I decided to have a go and use the same recipe.




      I soon found out that the box dimensions for the earlier XC60 were not quite suited to the later model, without having to cut a hole in the cargo tray floor and I did not want to do that. The maximum depth of box I could fit was 5.5” and still keep the cargo tray sitting in the correct position. My model is fitted with air suspension and so there are a couple of aluminium reservoir cylinders on the sides of the boot, but there was still extra width and depth in the boot to enable me to increase the box volume to make up for the reduction of thickness.

      Using the WinISD speaker program, I played with the internal volumes and tried different duct lengths and diameters. I could not buy the Precision Port duct without importing from the USA at great cost and various alternatives from e-bay turned out to be too small, then I realised I could 3D print my own duct through a friend. I made the rear (sealed) internal volume 8.40 litres versus 10.0 litres front chamber volume. This required the centre of the internal baffle to be installed 1” towards the rear chamber from the box centre. Using 3D CAD software, I designed the duct to the dimensions I needed, with a 1” flare inside and out. This gave a tuning frequency of 49.25Hz, a duct diameter of 53mm and length 233mm. With this non-standard diameter, I was able to reduce the maximum air velocity to below 29m/s, based on 30 being a maximum recommended I had seen elsewhere. The length also ensured that I had at least 2 duct diameters clear inside the box at the end of the duct. My friend Rod 3D printed this in two pieces with a joint. It’s fitted into the front of the box with screws. Final external box dimensions of my box are 26”x13”x5.5” and the build is otherwise the same as Mark’s.





      I’ve included the screenshots of the speaker parameters in WinISD for this SWS6.5X, as initially I had some issues entering in the correct units from the manufacturer’s box, which were throwing the curves right out. Also the performance curves of my subwoofer using the software.







      The Earthquake SWS6.5X speakers can just be made to fit in the box of this depth, but the ¾” MDF is not sufficient to separate the dust cones of the speakers when bolted face to face. Bolted to the wood, the cones could be heard scratching each other. I got my friend Rod to 3D print 3mm solid rubber gaskets, which gave just a little lift off the wood to stop contact.



      The speaker magnet bolts fouled the insides of the box and so after marking the locations, I routed some grooves to recess the bolt heads. These speakers are a tight fit! I added 2mm thick neoprene tape in the locations behind the magnet to reduce chance of contact vibration in this area. I cut in a speaker terminal box to the front to connect the internal wiring to, instead of banana sockets.



      The installation of the box required the sawing off of two studs on the boot floor, centre and RHS. A batten of timber approx 1.5” x 1” high was bolted to two existing brackets on the floor, to support the rear of the sub box. I initially fixed this to the box itself with two shelf dowel pins into the boot floor brackets, but due to vibration issues, then modified it to fix the batten solidly to the boot floor instead. I drilled through the batten into the box, and used four shelf dowel pins to provide a secure location of the box to the batten and still allow removal by lifting off as required.



      The front of the box is secured with a steel L-bracket that I fabricated to pickup two threaded bolts on the seat cross member. I’ve yet to get any nuts to secure this as they are a weird thread, but the weight is adequate to hold it down with some neoprene tape to reduce vibration. The box is lifted slightly off the floor to avoid transfer of vibration from wood to metal that I discovered during initial fitment, as there are some bumps in the floor that create uneven contact otherwise (just spotted this point in one of Mark’s later posts!).



      Using the Rockford Fosgate PBR300X1 amplifier recommended by Mark, I screwed this to the RHS end of the subwoofer box, with a plate of aluminium as a token heatsink, and it sits neatly under the floor without any extra fuss and keeps the wiring short.



      Power is connected via 10GA wire (as recommended by Rockford Fosgate) nearby to the battery (in the boot of this later model), via a spare fuse slot in the battery terminal housing – I had to take the battery terminals apart completely to bolt in an extra midi fuse and run this to the amp, but it was worth it, as it keeps it looking stock. The earth wire connects locally to the boot floor. I did not need a remote cable, using the amp sense to switch on.



      High level speaker connections were taken from the connector on the factory amp under the driver’s seat and these cables run under the carpet from the air duct under the seat towards the driver’s door, as I was able to push the cables through a void under the seat by removing the trim panel below the driver’s door and lifting the carpet. From here, it’s a simple route to the boot behind the trim panels. Splicing into the connector block wires was a little fiddly, because I didn’t want to cut the wires and I couldn’t remove the pins, which I would have liked to have done to enable me to heatshrink the connections. I bared the wires then soldered and wrapped with insulation tape, not ideal, but adequate. Wiring colours are different on the later model, but the same pin numbers as noted on Mark’s instructions. I found further photos and help on the later amp wiring on www.xc90audio.blogspot.com.

      Front left connected to Brown (+ve) and Yellow/Grey (-ve). Front right connected to Purple/Brown (+ve) and Yellow (-ve).


      My boot undertray and polystyrene insert were carefully sawcut to make space for the speaker box. Once I have finished testing and the box does not need to come apart again, I intend to carpet the box to match the boot floor.



      So far I am very impressed with the low bass that the subwoofer produces, although using spotify I think the losses in the mp3 music format become apparent, especially with the narrow band of the bandpass design. Hence, I have since saved 320kb/s mp3 files to a memory stick, which is much better quality and seems to overcome this issue of missing data at the low end. Maybe Spotify on the highest quality will be as good. In terms of settings, I am running the amp crossover at 150Hz, the gain at 5. Factory amp equaliser settings are 100Hz 2 below centre, 300Hz at centre, still undergoing testing. Volume is a good level and doesn’t put so much bass through the doors. What I will say is that the peak of the bandpass box is more evident and perhaps the rolloff above could be a bit higher. As shown on my WinISD graphs, the sub peaks between 30-80Hz. The low end sounds good, so impressed for the size of speaker! Any way, testing still continues and now I am wrestling with the tags on my media library to try to get compilations to show as albums, not individual songs!

      Credits:
      mark-sf – massive thanks for the original article and assistance!
      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...to-the-Low-End
      WinISD program for allowing me to calculate speaker box volumes and duct dimensions.
      www.Xc90audio.blogspot.com for an interesting audio upgrade article, but which mostly helped understand the wiring colours and pins from the factory amp.

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    3. #2
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      Congrats on completing your project! I'm glad you found my thread helpful. I'd be interested in what your final tone/equalizer settings will be since I am sure Volvo has changed things since 2011. You are right on in trying to optimize the source and I recommend that you try some lossless files as well. Finally, I was going to carpet mine but decided not to for two reasons. First, it would increase the height which I worked so hard to get just right (I know you did too!). Second, since this design has its woofers internally mounted, if one needed to repair anything it would me at least partial carpet removal. The spray paint I found, Rustoleum Textured Galaxy Metallic, is an excellent match to the carpet if you want to consider a painted finish. Enjoy!
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    4. #3
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Mark, also with the factory amplifier, it doesn't have the extra equaliser bands that the better amp with the sub out has so it think it's a five band equaliser with 100hz, 300hz and so on. Would there be an alternative to the 4th order bandpass principle to reduce the upper roll off?

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tall-person View Post
      Mark, also with the factory amplifier, it doesn't have the extra equaliser bands that the better amp with the sub out has so it think it's a five band equaliser with 100hz, 300hz and so on. Would there be an alternative to the 4th order bandpass principle to reduce the upper roll off?
      I am afraid you are going to need to perform some tests as I did starting with my post here. Your equalizer/tone controls are different from mine. You need to understand the frequency response changes made with the Bass, 100, and 200 controls. This will be very tough to perform by ear but fortunately there are Smart Phone apps like AudioTools and their videos that can assist you without actual test equipment.

      Your goal is to roll-off the bass using the tone/eq controls so that the doors and built-in amp don't reproduce it, but compensate for that roll-off by increasing the gain of the Fosgate. To do this you need to follow these steps:

      1. Disconnect/turn off your sub.
      2. Set Bass and Treble to Center, Fader to Front, EQ to Custom with all 5 bands at center (0) position.
      3. Check out the video tutorials on using the Audio Toools app to perform a Pink Noise FFT test using your home system.
      4. Mount the phone about head height at the drivers position so that the mic hole is facing forward and it is stable and accessible.
      5. Perform the following tests retiring the controls to neutral after each and saving the results:
      a. Baseline everything set to neutral as in Step 2.
      b. Bass all the way down.
      c. 100 all the way down.
      d. Bass and 100 all the way down.
      e. Bass all the way up and 100 all the way down.
      f. 200 all the way up.

      6. Post pictures of the graphs here.

      My guess is that you will find that the 100 and Bass controls have exactly the same effect as the Bass and 60 did in mine. But we need to confirm.
      What you then need to do is, after finding a combination of tone/eq settings that cause a low frequency rolloff where 80hz is about -6db down from the level between 500 and 1K. set your Fosgate Freq at 80Hz and then adjust its gain to a bass level that meets your listening tastes. At the end of this when playing songs with heavy low bass, you should be able to place your palm on the lower door panel and not feel significant vibrations. If you find that this level varies, I would recommend getting the Fosgate dash control instead of using your car's controls. The reason is that your HP amp is barely adequate, so the less it has to do the better for your overall sound.
      Last edited by mark-sf; 04-30-2020 at 01:23 PM.
      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    7. #5
      Junior Member PSamy's Avatar
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      @Tall-person : That was as impressive build, What was your stock music system? Harman Kardon or bowers and wilkins?
      2019 XC60 - T6 - R-Design - Polestar - Air Suspension W/Four-C Chassis - Advance - Crystal White Pearl - 21" R-Design Wheels

    8. #6
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Thanks Mark, I will get the app and work through that over the weekend if I can...
      Last edited by Tall-person; 05-01-2020 at 07:45 PM.

    9. #7
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Hi PSamy - Thanks! I have the stock audio system, as I bought the car a year old so couldn't choose options....to be fair, the standard audio system isn't bad, but I'm sure the upgrades are very worthy. I'm pleased with the subwoofer as it has filled in the low end of the bass and not lost any boot space.


      BTW, how did you get the @ user link to work? It didn't work when I just wrote you in with an @....?

      Cheers.
      Last edited by Tall-person; 05-01-2020 at 05:47 PM.

    10. #8
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      Excellent work, and agree @mark-sf was invaluable in helping me with some questions I had with my audio set up. Love the stealth enclosures you guys have built.

    11. #9
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mark-sf View Post
      I am afraid you are going to need to perform some tests as I did starting with my post here. Your equalizer/tone controls are different from mine. You need to understand the frequency response changes made with the Bass, 100, and 200 controls. This will be very tough to perform by ear but fortunately there are Smart Phone apps like AudioTools and their videos that can assist you without actual test equipment.

      Your goal is to roll-off the bass using the tone/eq controls so that the doors and built-in amp don't reproduce it, but compensate for that roll-off by increasing the gain of the Fosgate. To do this you need to follow these steps:

      1. Disconnect/turn off your sub.
      2. Set Bass and Treble to Center, Fader to Front, EQ to Custom with all 5 bands at center (0) position.
      3. Check out the video tutorials on using the Audio Toools app to perform a Pink Noise FFT test using your home system.
      4. Mount the phone about head height at the drivers position so that the mic hole is facing forward and it is stable and accessible.
      5. Perform the following tests retiring the controls to neutral after each and saving the results:
      a. Baseline everything set to neutral as in Step 2.
      b. Bass all the way down.
      c. 100 all the way down.
      d. Bass and 100 all the way down.
      e. Bass all the way up and 100 all the way down.
      f. 200 all the way up.

      6. Post pictures of the graphs here.

      My guess is that you will find that the 100 and Bass controls have exactly the same effect as the Bass and 60 did in mine. But we need to confirm.
      What you then need to do is, after finding a combination of tone/eq settings that cause a low frequency rolloff where 80hz is about -6db down from the level between 500 and 1K. set your Fosgate Freq at 80Hz and then adjust its gain to a bass level that meets your listening tastes. At the end of this when playing songs with heavy low bass, you should be able to place your palm on the lower door panel and not feel significant vibrations. If you find that this level varies, I would recommend getting the Fosgate dash control instead of using your car's controls. The reason is that your HP amp is barely adequate, so the less it has to do the better for your overall sound.
      Mark - downloaded a free Android based RTA tool, which has given different results to yours. See what you think of these graphs. I've just bought an external mic, so may try again in the morning and I have also looked up and now tried to match the settings of Audiotools. Failing that, if these are no good, I will buy the audiotools app on another family mobile which is apple and it's only £9.99 at the moment.
      By the way, the brown/orange line on these graphs is the peak hold line.
      All neutral:

      Bass Down:

      100Hz Down:

      Bass and 100Hz Down:

      Bass Up 100Hz Down:

      300Hz Up:

      All with the sub off and an uncorrelated pink noise sample I got from the Dynaudio website. I can see the effect of dropping the Bass or 100Hz slider is similar and dropping both has a more pronounced effect. I had not realised that both would operate at the same time. However, I can't say I see any real noticeable impact of the sliders on the bottom end. And I'm not sure why my graphs are very different to yours, maybe the apps are setup differently, but they suggest that my bass levels are much higher as standard? Yours seem to start at -60db, going up to like -20db across the mid to high range frequencies, whereas all mine are -60 to -20 then dropping right back down to -60 at the high end. Maybe it's just the comparison between equaliser levels we are comparing here and i don't need to worry about the subtleties...I'll try again with the external mic.
      Today, I had a setting that sounded pretty good, bass at neutral, 100Hz at -3, 300 at +3, 1k +6, 5k +6 and 10k +3, going from memory, these might not be correctly recalled, so i may edit my message tomorrow! Gain still on 5 and crossover at 150Hz. I repeated these three times and they all look similar. I then switched the sub back on and did a repeat set. Here is the neutral result:

      Any thoughts welcomed Mark, but it's an iterative exercise as you know, so in the obsessive nature that one can be with these challenges, I will be out there in the morning again!
      Cheers!
      Raoul.
      Last edited by Tall-person; 05-02-2020 at 07:28 PM.

    12. #10
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Hello again Mark. After doing that last set of tests, I picked up a decent external microphone and repeated the tests with the same software. As before, the brown line is the peak hold line.
      a - All Neutral:

      b - Bass Down:

      c - 100Hz Down

      d - Bass and 100 Down

      e - Bass Up 100Hz Down

      f - 300Hz Up

      I then turned the sub on with everything back to neutral.

      It seems like the high frequencies were dropping off, so i went a bit radical and increased the treble as well as equaliser levels! Likewise, bass dropped and the 100Hz. These are my current testing levels to listen further with.
      and got this result:

      Any thoughts welcomed, but ultimately i need to get out and listen longer.....difficult in current coronavirus lockdown times to get out and about that much!
      Cheers,
      Raoul.
      Last edited by Tall-person; 05-07-2020 at 06:18 PM.

    13. #11
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      Nice build, and thanks for sharing the pictures.
      Denim Blue 2018 xc90 T6 Momentum+

    14. #12
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      Rahul, thanks for uploading the graphs. There is an issue with your test environment in that you either have too much background noise or your levels are not high enough. You need to have at least 40db between your average level in the 500-1K range and the ambient noise level. Your low frequency noise is far too high relative to your signal which is why you see the response flattening below 60Hz.

      To solve this you need to run the test in a quieter location with the engine off and doors closed. Then make sure your sound in the 500-1K octave is at least 40db above ambient.

      Even with the results you have, it appears the Bass and 100Hz controls are performing the same adjustment which is how it is on mine. From this I would expect that you will need to cut the 100Hz all the way down and cut the Bass by about 50% to start. Then bring the lows back up via the sub gain.

      Do not try to equalize the system by boosting the treble like you did. The goal is to have the stock amp do as little work as possible since it is powered-limited. Do not worry about the kids and treble until you get the bass sorted out.


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      2011.5 XC60 3.2L Flamenco Red/Anthracite Black, Premium, Multimedia, Convenience, BLIS, Xenon + Custom Subwoofer

    15. #13
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Thanks Mark. With these graphs I was taking the readings in the car with engine off, doors closed and volume just over half way.....the pink noise sample from Dynaudio website was an uncorrelated pink noise if that has any bearing, and I tried the correlated version and that was similar. I'll have another go and crank the volume up to see if I can get up to the level you are suggesting.
      Cheers,
      Raoul.

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      DIY Subwoofer - 2018 XC60

      Quote Originally Posted by Tall-person View Post
      Thanks Mark. With these graphs I was taking the readings in the car with engine off, doors closed and volume just over half way.....the pink noise sample from Dynaudio website was an uncorrelated pink noise if that has any bearing, and I tried the correlated version and that was similar. I'll have another go and crank the volume up to see if I can get up to the level you are suggesting.
      Cheers,
      Raoul.
      When you try again, take a reading with nothing playing to see what your ambient baseline is first. Then you’ll have a better sense where +40 dB will be.


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    17. #15
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Hi Mark, i think i may have misinterpreted the amp wiring block colours and got my signal polarity reversed. You said the wires are white and grey with black stripes on pins 1, 3, 9 and 11 of the connector, but the diagram you posted has different codes - pin 1 GR Grey?-BK black?, pin 9 GN Green? BK black?).
      If you look at my connector above, on the later model, would you agree that Pin is the 1 lower right with yellow grey wire? In which case, brown above is pin 9 and Left front +, pin 11 is purple brown right front +, pin 1 underneath as yellow grey left front - and pin 3 yellow as right front -. Do you agree? All negatives are the bottom row as viewed from the amp rear and the upper row all positives? Or have I got the numbering the wrong way around?
      What this also suggests weirdly is one speaker has a stripe on the positive wire and the other has a stripe on the negative.....surely the convention would be for all negatives to have the striped wire?
      Last edited by Tall-person; 06-11-2020 at 06:54 PM.

    18. #16
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      Raoul, colors are going to change but pinouts won’t. As long as both channels are consistent, polarity in this configuration in a car sub is not going to matter as there is no phase alignment. I don’t remember whether the top or bottom row has the lower pins. If you are concerned switch them at the amp and listen to see which configuration produces more bass. I doubt you’ll find a audible difference, but if you do use the loudest one.


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    19. #17
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Thanks Mark. I haven't yet found a happy medium with the equaliser settings and it's either too quiet on the road or quite peaky, the bass roll off can be noticeable. I just had a thought as to whether I had had wired these high level inputs the right way and it prompted me to do a check....which i will do in the morning daylight...

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      Quote Originally Posted by Tall-person View Post
      Thanks Mark. I haven't yet found a happy medium with the equaliser settings and it's either too quiet on the road or quite peaky, the bass roll off can be noticeable. I just had a thought as to whether I had had wired these high level inputs the right way and it prompted me to do a check....which i will do in the morning daylight...
      Did you ever retest based upon setting the baseline as I described earlier? If so what were your results? Trying to do it by ear is virtually impossible as there is quite a lot of overlap in the EQ and Tone controls and you end up chasing your tail.


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    21. #19
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      No that's something I might try at the weekend.....I have messed with the levels somewhat and it varies by track on Spotify so I don't think that helps either. I did consider the rockford fosgate PEX remote, but that curve seems to increase around the 60hz centrepoint, which may not help me as the sub has no problem producing low end bass. I have to say that the bass does sound quite awesome on some tracks, coming from the subwoofers of this size.....sound is definitely better from a memory stick even compared to the highest spotify quality. At the moment I am running the bass about half way below midpoint and the 100hz approx 2 or 3 below mid. Crossover is on approx 100hz and level 6.

    22. #20
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      I would add Mark that when I tested the levels before with pink noise, the volume was over half way, so I will check again the background baseline and go from there.

    23. #21
      Junior Member Tall-person's Avatar
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      Mark - Here are the background levels with the doors closed and everything off. Comparing this to any of the others above, I would say that I do have 40db between background and 500-1k.

      I haven't bought the Audiotools app you recommended in your original post, thinking all spectrum analyser apps would be similar, but perhaps that is the reason why the plots are different to yours. Even the external mic made little difference..
      Last edited by Tall-person; 06-22-2020 at 06:29 PM.

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