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    Thread: Racecar to Be

    1. #1
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      Cool Racecar to Be

      I have a 2008 C30 that I picked up for $500 that I bought planning to build into a racecar. I'm pretty sure it is an R-Design, but I'm not entirely sure. It has the 6 speed M66 transmission and I know it's a T5. I'm much more of an S60 guy, but this is my new toy. I've already stripped basically everything out of the car and pulled the engine and transmission. I'm fairly certain the previous owner blew a heater core line and overheated the head and likely cracked it somewhere. When I pulled the spark plugs coolant came up out of every cylinder...

      Originally I was planning on trying to convert it to RWD, but until I get a space to do something like that I'm going to keep it simple so I don't ruin my ****. I also considered doing the AWD swap on it, but for now I think I'm just going to try to keep it as simple as possible, being that this is going to be enough work as it is. That being said, I know I'm going to try to get my hands onto a Quaife LSD. I was considering running something from the XClutch lineup, probably the dual-clutch, any better suggestions here?

      Talking turbos. Really not too sure where to go here. I could do a simple upgrade like one of the options offered on Viva Performace, or, I've been eyeballing this Borg Warner turbo for both of my Volvos > https://www.full-race.com/store/borg...16-2480-turbo/

      I'm planning on picking up one of the pre-sleeved blocks on Elevate's website. I know they're expensive, but I already have to replace the block which isn't really going to be much cheaper, might as well just do it seeing that it's one of the biggest performance issues with these cars. I'm also going to be going with some forged pistons and rods. I'll take some suggestions there. I also want to upgrade all the engine studs and bolts with ARP hardware.

      As for cams and crankshaft, I don't really think it's necessary to upgrade them until I start pushing some real big power numbers. After building the engine I'll definitely try to get my rev limiter raised, but with variable valve timing I should really need to change my cam setup until it becomes an issue.

      Obviously I'm going to go with a BFMIC, but I want to upgrade the radiator as well. The one on it is pretty trashed and full of rust. I'm thinking I'll probably just pick up something from Mishimoto. But when it comes to induction, what MAF/throttle body upgrades are you guys running?

      I've already removed the AC condenser from the engine, but I'm going to continue removing the entire AC system. I'm also removing most of the interior, all airbags, rear seats, spare tire. basically everything. It's going to be a real racecar. I'll be relocating the battery location to the rear somewhere. I'm also going to be removing all of the sound deadening and seam sealer and I'm going to seam weld the chassis. I'm also going to try to replace at least all of the rear windows with either Lexan or just plexiglass.

      I'm going to be running a nice upgraded oil cooler that I'll mount up by the radiator. I know my S60 has a lot of issues with powersteering fluid overheating, is that a common issue with these as well? If so I'll run a cooler for the powersteering fluid as well. Also, is anyone running performance transmission cooling? and if so, what is your setup like?

      There's a whole list of things I want to do, I'll add a photo.

      https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Spx...ew?usp=sharing

      It would be super cool to get some quality advice with some of this. I want to do something really cool with this car, I bought it just to have fun with. It would be sweet to build it up and take it around to let some C30 owners rip it. I also have a YouTube channel where I've been documenting my progress. If you want to check that out just search Octane Overdrive on YouTube.

      Cheers Volvo fam!

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    3. #2
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      Hey man, welcome! I watched part of your C30 video and am excited to see you're close to where I may be moving to in the near future (Sacramento). Anyway, I could be wrong, but it looks to me like you don't have an RD C30 because you're missing the steering wheel that comes with the RD badge and the blue gauge cluster. Oddly, you do have the RD interior and sport pedals though.

      The stock turbo on the C30 is the K04. The upgrade is the K16 which also came on the euro Focus RS that we didn't get here in the states. I don't believe that'll fit on your P2 though.

      I'd love to get a sleeved block from Elevate someday, but they're pricey and you can probably get it done for cheaper elsewhere. I'm pretty sure they don't do the sleeving themselves and are just the middleman on these transactions.

      For FMIC, the best bang for your buck option is the do88. Can't make a recommendation on a radiator and haven't really heard of anyone upgrading them.

      One cool thing about our cars is that there's a Porsche TB that's PnP on our cars. I'm not exactly sure which one, but I think it's in the stickies and can be found easily either way. You can get one on eBay for pretty cheap.

      You can also upgrade the oil cooler for pretty cheap too. You'll have to do some digging either here or at C30crew (where you should make an account btw), but I believe the diesel xC90 oil cooler is basically the same as ours but bigger.
      2005 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 (2017 - ) || 1987 Toyota MR2 (2016 - ) || 2002 Lexus IS300 (2016 - ) || 2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 (2016 - 2019) || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 (2015 - 2016) || 2001 Acura Integra GSR (2010 - 2010) Stolen lol

    4. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by V50toS40 View Post
      Hey man, welcome! I watched part of your C30 video and am excited to see you're close to where I may be moving to in the near future (Sacramento). Anyway, I could be wrong, but it looks to me like you don't have an RD C30 because you're missing the steering wheel that comes with the RD badge and the blue gauge cluster. Oddly, you do have the RD interior and sport pedals though.

      The stock turbo on the C30 is the K04. The upgrade is the K16 which also came on the euro Focus RS that we didn't get here in the states. I don't believe that'll fit on your P2 though.

      I'd love to get a sleeved block from Elevate someday, but they're pricey and you can probably get it done for cheaper elsewhere. I'm pretty sure they don't do the sleeving themselves and are just the middleman on these transactions.

      For FMIC, the best bang for your buck option is the do88. Can't make a recommendation on a radiator and haven't really heard of anyone upgrading them.

      One cool thing about our cars is that there's a Porsche TB that's PnP on our cars. I'm not exactly sure which one, but I think it's in the stickies and can be found easily either way. You can get one on eBay for pretty cheap.

      You can also upgrade the oil cooler for pretty cheap too. You'll have to do some digging either here or at C30crew (where you should make an account btw), but I believe the diesel xC90 oil cooler is basically the same as ours but bigger.

      So the steering wheel thing was confusing me as well, but this car was in a front end collision that set the airbag off and it was replaced, or so I'm told.. so that could explain the lack of the R badging on the steering wheel but I didn't know that the C30's also had the blue clusters, so that's weird. The little research I did suggested that the cosmic white/rootbeer color combo was only an R-Design option, am I wrong there as well?

      When it comes to turbo upgrades I can fabricate just about anything I might need, so If I need to just weld a new flange onto the exhaust manifold, or even make a completely new custom manifold, I can do it. I really am planning on going custom with this build. I'm going to buy a pipe bender and I'll be making my own main roll hoop and then a harness bar because I am going to be putting real racing seats in it. I want to track this thing at Thunder Hill Raceway with my friends who race there.

      I am in total agreement with you on the pricing on the Elevate block, it's ridiculous. That being said, this seems like a good time to mention that I am planning on doing some outreach and seeing what kind of help I can source for this build. My background lies in fabrication, business, and sales; so with any luck I should at least be able to score a discount or two. 😋

      Do88 is a company I'm very familiar with, I've had my eye on their stuff for my S60 for a while. As for the radiator, I know Mishimoto is tried and true and I ran a Mishimoto radiator on my Ford Escort Zx2 back in the day. Like I said, this radiator is unfortunately full of rust and all kinds of ****... Pretty sure the last owner put that radiator patch **** into it because it's slimy green rust. 🤮

      I have heard about that Porshe TB so I'm glad someone mentioned it, that's what I was hoping for. If I do pick it up I'll for sure get it from FCP Euro... Gotta get that lifetime warranty!

      For the oil cooler, if it's another one that bolts up behind the engine I'd really like to move away from that and move up to the radiator to pass air through a larger cooler. I'm REALLY going to be pushing this car... I'm honestly ****ing amazed that my S60 has kept on kicking like a champion. I have abused the **** out of it for 100,000 miles and the only issue I had where it legit stopped running was the PCV 🙄

      Thanks for your input! I really appreciate it and it looks like you already know where you can see progress on the build! 😁

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    6. #4
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      You have a V2.0, not an R-design. R-design for the Classic C30 was just cosmetic bits, so you're not missing out on anything.

      Being manual, I would just go with an LSD, SMF, and upgraded clutch. That'll be sufficient for any big power build.

      As you probably know form the S60, tuning Volvos get complicated. The K16 turbo is a bolt on upgrade for good power, but it is plagued with tuning issues.
      Any other turbo and you'll need to go full stand alone and custom.
      Most of the K04 bolt ons are supporting mods for the K16 as well, so I would consider just building a hybrid K04 and seeing what you think. Especially if you're starting with a FWD car, the K04 will get you to 300-320 crank horsepower, about 260+hp at the wheels, which is more than enough in a FWD car like these.

      Don't do mods that you don't consider to be necessary, but if you already have the engine apart, it's a convenient time to throw in performance cams. But then again, tuning... One part at a time and getting everything working right makes trouble shooting inevitable issues much easier.

      Do88 in the best bolt in intercooler and the best price. You can't fit anything bigger without cutting/removing the crash bumper.
      The radiators on these cars are perfectly sufficient. But if yours is rusty, you might as well upgrade it. I plan to get a Mishimoto if mine ever needs to be replaced.

      Porsche Throttle body is a good upgrade. It won't add hp or improve the dyno numbers, but it improves the power delivery curve.



      The stock MAF has never been a problem for me. I've heard some people opting for upgraded Bosch parts (probably another Porsche part), but you also want to make sure it plays nicely with your tune. Not something you need to bother replacing unless you go bigger than a K16.

      The AC has two pulleys on it. The accessories belt drives the first AC pulley and the second AC pulley drives the alternator belt. You can pull the AC, but you'll need to rig some sort of a pulley system so that you're still powering the alternator. I don't really understand why you'd pull the AC though... Real racecars have AC. AC is a system for defrosting.

      Remove everything, and you can get the car under 3000lbs. https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ression-Thread
      Which again, makes the K04 pretty sufficient for power while retaining reliability and ease of tuning.

      Any relocated oil cooler will be good, though I've never had oil temp issues on mine with the stock oil cooler.
      No power steering issues with P1s.
      No real need for external transmission cooling with the M66 either. Look at my build in the link above... Mostly just bolt ons and tracked/driven hard. Engine lasted until 194k miles before cracking sleeves on the stock block.

      Couldn't see your to do list, but best of luck with the build! I love that these P1s have gotten cheap enough that others are starting to pick them up as project cars.

    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      You have a V2.0, not an R-design. R-design for the Classic C30 was just cosmetic bits, so you're not missing out on anything.

      Being manual, I would just go with an LSD, SMF, and upgraded clutch. That'll be sufficient for any big power build.

      As you probably know form the S60, tuning Volvos get complicated. The K16 turbo is a bolt on upgrade for good power, but it is plagued with tuning issues.
      Any other turbo and you'll need to go full stand alone and custom.
      Most of the K04 bolt ons are supporting mods for the K16 as well, so I would consider just building a hybrid K04 and seeing what you think. Especially if you're starting with a FWD car, the K04 will get you to 300-320 crank horsepower, about 260+hp at the wheels, which is more than enough in a FWD car like these.

      Don't do mods that you don't consider to be necessary, but if you already have the engine apart, it's a convenient time to throw in performance cams. But then again, tuning... One part at a time and getting everything working right makes trouble shooting inevitable issues much easier.

      Do88 in the best bolt in intercooler and the best price. You can't fit anything bigger without cutting/removing the crash bumper.
      The radiators on these cars are perfectly sufficient. But if yours is rusty, you might as well upgrade it. I plan to get a Mishimoto if mine ever needs to be replaced.

      Porsche Throttle body is a good upgrade. It won't add hp or improve the dyno numbers, but it improves the power delivery curve.



      The stock MAF has never been a problem for me. I've heard some people opting for upgraded Bosch parts (probably another Porsche part), but you also want to make sure it plays nicely with your tune. Not something you need to bother replacing unless you go bigger than a K16.

      The AC has two pulleys on it. The accessories belt drives the first AC pulley and the second AC pulley drives the alternator belt. You can pull the AC, but you'll need to rig some sort of a pulley system so that you're still powering the alternator. I don't really understand why you'd pull the AC though... Real racecars have AC. AC is a system for defrosting.

      Remove everything, and you can get the car under 3000lbs. https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ression-Thread
      Which again, makes the K04 pretty sufficient for power while retaining reliability and ease of tuning.

      Any relocated oil cooler will be good, though I've never had oil temp issues on mine with the stock oil cooler.
      No power steering issues with P1s.
      No real need for external transmission cooling with the M66 either. Look at my build in the link above... Mostly just bolt ons and tracked/driven hard. Engine lasted until 194k miles before cracking sleeves on the stock block.

      Couldn't see your to do list, but best of luck with the build! I love that these P1s have gotten cheap enough that others are starting to pick them up as project cars.

      Thanks for the reply! Looks like we've got 3 of the same vehicles, I have a 98 F150 4.6L as well.

      Sounds like some very solid advice. I am mainly just running ideas by right now, but the more logical side of myself has been leaning more towards many of your recommendations. When I was tearing everything apart I did notice that the AC condenser had 2 pulleys on it, so I was already on the same page as you there. The main reason I was wanting to ditch it was because the system is already not charged and I just wanted to try to save the weight where I could.

      As for the tuning issues, this is something I'm very aware of. I've done a little tiny talking with Rob at Hilton Tuning and it seems like he might be able to hang with most of the mods I do, he tunes through dice and I've already got one. I was thinking about going full stand alone and it's also something that I would love to do but I live in California so getting around our laws is not always so fun... Should be moving to central Oregon at the end of the year though.

      As for mods that I don't consider to be necessary, that's not really something I'm worried about, I bought this for $500 with the intention of just trying to have fun and build something cool. If it ends un in the scrapyard, I'm out less than $500 because I've already sold some parts off of it.

      Which seems like a good moment to revisit the idea of trying to convert it to RWD. Now this was my original intention and it was never again going to be meant to be a nice reliable car. I wanted to make something I could take out to the local track and drift around with my buddies. And yes, I'm fully aware that it would be cheaper and easier to just go pick up a mustang; but I wanted to have my own taste, and I like Volvos. There is a garage who pulled it off already, I'm sure you guys have seen the 2 that have been done. The one that the guys built for drifting was so overly complicated though. And they used a subframe from a BMW. I would want to start with the closest thing to what Volvo would have put into it. For the AWD swap the rear subframe from an AWD V50 is used, do why not use this for a RWD swap as well?

      But yes, the RWD still interests me, I think it would be cool to do. though, for simplicity sake, I was just going to pull either an LS powerplant or something similar and make it fit. It would be much easier to shove a small LS in there and make it fit, cut and fabricate a new transmission tunnel, and I'm sure I'd have to cut a whole bunch of other crap too. But LS, custom driveshaft, figure out a better rear subframe situation, and what diff to run. And driveshaftshop makes custom driveshafts and axles.

      I know it would be harder than I think and it would take a long time and be expensive, but I think it would be badass.

    8. #6
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      Absolutely have fun with it! Ignore the purists who might claim you're ruining it, because it's your car and you're meant to have fun with it.
      There will be the people who spent $30k on their C30 and hate this idea, then there will be people like us with cars worth just a few hundred dollars, so it doesn't really matter.

      Not if, but when my engine goes again, I've already been measuring up for how hard it would be to cutout the rear floor and make the car an MR with a Porsche power plant. It'd be a lot of cutting and reinforcing structure, but anything is possible.

      There's a guy on Crew who has been doing a lot of research for the RWD swap and it may be easier than you think: http://www.c30crew.com/forum/showthr...RWD-Conversion

      Also, Hilton would be my first suggestion for tuning at this point.
      I've had Elevate, they were great until they weren't.
      I have Shark, they were also great until they weren't.
      Hilton is the only other person I'd trust to tune a modern Volvo.

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      Absolutely have fun with it! Ignore the purists who might claim you're ruining it, because it's your car and you're meant to have fun with it.
      There will be the people who spent $30k on their C30 and hate this idea, then there will be people like us with cars worth just a few hundred dollars, so it doesn't really matter.

      Not if, but when my engine goes again, I've already been measuring up for how hard it would be to cutout the rear floor and make the car an MR with a Porsche power plant. It'd be a lot of cutting and reinforcing structure, but anything is possible.

      There's a guy on Crew who has been doing a lot of research for the RWD swap and it may be easier than you think: http://www.c30crew.com/forum/showthr...RWD-Conversion

      Also, Hilton would be my first suggestion for tuning at this point.
      I've had Elevate, they were great until they weren't.
      I have Shark, they were also great until they weren't.
      Hilton is the only other person I'd trust to tune a modern Volvo.
      Wow, mixing a C30 and a Porsche power plant would definitely be insane, kinda hope you go for it. Thanks for sharing the info that you've found, I appreciate it a lot because I would prefer to do the RWD swap if possible, but if not I want to still make one hell of a build.

      I do also have some interior parts and random bits that I have up for sale because I won't be having a full interior.

    10. #8

      RE: Racecar

      Quote Originally Posted by Octane Overdrive View Post
      I have a 2008 C30 that I picked up for $500 that I bought planning to build into a racecar. I'm pretty sure it is an R-Design, but I'm not entirely sure. It has the 6 speed M66 transmission and I know it's a T5. I'm much more of an S60 guy, but this is my new toy. I've already stripped basically everything out of the car and pulled the engine and transmission. I'm fairly certain the previous owner blew a heater core line and overheated the head and likely cracked it somewhere. When I pulled the spark plugs coolant came up out of every cylinder...

      Originally I was planning on trying to convert it to RWD, but until I get a space to do something like that I'm going to keep it simple so I don't ruin my ****. I also considered doing the AWD swap on it, but for now I think I'm just going to try to keep it as simple as possible, being that this is going to be enough work as it is. That being said, I know I'm going to try to get my hands onto a Quaife LSD. I was considering running something from the XClutch lineup, probably the dual-clutch, any better suggestions here?

      Talking turbos. Really not too sure where to go here. I could do a simple upgrade like one of the options offered on Viva Performace, or, I've been eyeballing this Borg Warner turbo for both of my Volvos > https://www.full-race.com/store/borg...16-2480-turbo/

      I'm planning on picking up one of the pre-sleeved blocks on Elevate's website. I know they're expensive, but I already have to replace the block which isn't really going to be much cheaper, might as well just do it seeing that it's one of the biggest performance issues with these cars. I'm also going to be going with some forged pistons and rods. I'll take some suggestions there. I also want to upgrade all the engine studs and bolts with ARP hardware.

      As for cams and crankshaft, I don't really think it's necessary to upgrade them until I start pushing some real big power numbers. After building the engine I'll definitely try to get my rev limiter raised, but with variable valve timing I should really need to change my cam setup until it becomes an issue.

      Obviously I'm going to go with a BFMIC, but I want to upgrade the radiator as well. The one on it is pretty trashed and full of rust. I'm thinking I'll probably just pick up something from Mishimoto. But when it comes to induction, what MAF/throttle body upgrades are you guys running?

      I've already removed the AC condenser from the engine, but I'm going to continue removing the entire AC system. I'm also removing most of the interior, all airbags, rear seats, spare tire. basically everything. It's going to be a real racecar. I'll be relocating the battery location to the rear somewhere. I'm also going to be removing all of the sound deadening and seam sealer and I'm going to seam weld the chassis. I'm also going to try to replace at least all of the rear windows with either Lexan or just plexiglass.

      I'm going to be running a nice upgraded oil cooler that I'll mount up by the radiator. I know my S60 has a lot of issues with powersteering fluid overheating, is that a common issue with these as well? If so I'll run a cooler for the powersteering fluid as well. Also, is anyone running performance transmission cooling? and if so, what is your setup like?

      There's a whole list of things I want to do, I'll add a photo.

      https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Spx...ew?usp=sharing

      It would be super cool to get some quality advice with some of this. I want to do something really cool with this car, I bought it just to have fun with. It would be sweet to build it up and take it around to let some C30 owners rip it. I also have a YouTube channel where I've been documenting my progress. If you want to check that out just search Octane Overdrive on YouTube.

      Cheers Volvo fam!
      I would be more than happy to assist with your build. Do you want a high horse power beast, corner carver, or a bit of both?

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      How would you help with the build?

    12. #10
      Quote Originally Posted by Octane Overdrive View Post
      How would you help with the build?
      By offering a detailed list of parts(part numbers), websites where to find the parts, details on installing, etc. in a neat and tidy list.
      Such as dual catch can install, fittings needed etc. custom intake, poly bushing install, etc. You know, help. What to expect from the
      K16 upgrade, meth injection install, sleeving the block, custom pistons/rods, camshafts, plug gap for 25-27 psi, you know, simple stuff.
      Throttle body etc. All of which can of course be researched individually. But would be a lot easier if if was all in one place. Right?
      Last edited by paradoxicallymodified; 06-03-2020 at 08:20 AM.

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      Quote Originally Posted by paradoxicallymodified View Post
      By offering a detailed list of parts(part numbers), websites where to find the parts, details on installing, etc. in a neat and tidy list.
      Such as dual catch can install, fittings needed etc. custom intake, poly bushing install, etc. You know, help. What to expect from the
      K16 upgrade, meth injection install, sleeving the block, custom pistons/rods, camshafts, plug gap for 25-27 psi, you know, simple stuff.
      Throttle body etc. All of which can of course be researched individually. But would be a lot easier if if was all in one place. Right?
      I was just curious if you meant with something other than info. Right on. Seems like everyone only talks about the K16 turbo upgrade. Why is this so popular? Just because it bolts right up? Personally, I'd rather go with something more modern like a Turbo by Garrett. If I had to make a custom exhaust manifold then I have to make one. 🤷*♂️ I'm not worried about the people that'll freak out and say the tube lengths all have to be the same and blah blah blah. They're not even close to equal lengths in the factory exhaust manifold. That also gives me the option to move the turbocharger to where I see fit, maybe show it off a little since I'd be spending so much money on the damn thing lol.

      Meth injection is definitely something I'll probably want to mess with, I was thinking about running it from my windshield wiper reservoir. For sure would want it to be a little stealthy, gotta leave at least 1 or 2 things a surprise. 😏

      For the block, I'd really just buy it from Elevate, unless someone else had one pre-sleeved. But I wouldn't want to spend the time trying to find a good shop close enough to me and then the time that it would take for whatever they screw up the first time. For me, it would be worth the extra money to not have to go through that headache. What I'm most concerned with if I choose to use the T5 engine for an RWD build is, what transmission hooks up to this engine that is in an RWD configuration? And if there isn't one, then out of all the glorious manual, preferably 6 speed, RWD transmissions should we choose and then the next hurdle would be finding someone to design a custom bell housing adapter.

      If I choose to keep the T5 engine, I do want to aim for high horsepower. Between the 400 and 600 HP range, preferably on the upper end of that. And I don't care about torque steer. Keep in mind I might also use that engine to do an RWD build. Then 600 would sound a little better, huh?

    14. #12
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
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      K16 is the preferred turbo upgrade for a handful of reasons.
      1. It fits with a mostly stock setup.
      2. Tuning isn't too tough, though there are still only a few K16 P1s actually running without problems after all these years.
      3. It's more than enough power for this chassis.

      There are bell housing adapters for older white blocks. Common to mate up with a Mustang T5 tranny. T5 on a T5 But I'm not sure what options are out there for our particular engines. With that being said, if you going to turn the engine the right way, why not just go with an older 2.3 or 2.4 T5? Those are generally more robust in stock form and then you definitely have a catalog of premade parts to choose from.

      What exactly are you hoping to accomplish with this build? A racecar-track-toy and a high horsepower build can go down very different paths. While racecars can have high horsepower, it's about balance, making torque steer a very significant concern.

      There are a few 400+ HP P1s in the world, great for drag racing (with plenty of safety room on the right hand side) and blowing minds, but not exactly the optimal choice for a track weapon.
      Even with an LSD, if the car is FWD, you really don't want more than 320whp. It becomes unruly to drive beyond that. Not saying it won't be fun, but also not what I would classify as a "racecar."

      Technical circuits and mountain roads, my K04 is always in boost and has no disadvantage when stacked against FF and FAWD cars of similar or greater horsepower. One of the many reasons why I have no intention of putting a bigger turbo in the car.

      I would really encourage you find some locals with fully built K04 and K16s to actually experience what these cars are capable of at 250+whp.
      Don't forget about the torque of these 5 cylinders either. A K04 can have 350ftlbs at the wheels, which is what makes them a handful to drive.
      But if you're just going straight for the RWD build, then it's a whole different story.

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      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      K16 is the preferred turbo upgrade for a handful of reasons.
      1. It fits with a mostly stock setup.
      2. Tuning isn't too tough, though there are still only a few K16 P1s actually running without problems after all these years.
      3. It's more than enough power for this chassis.

      There are bell housing adapters for older white blocks. Common to mate up with a Mustang T5 tranny. T5 on a T5 But I'm not sure what options are out there for our particular engines. With that being said, if you going to turn the engine the right way, why not just go with an older 2.3 or 2.4 T5? Those are generally more robust in stock form and then you definitely have a catalog of premade parts to choose from.

      What exactly are you hoping to accomplish with this build? A racecar-track-toy and a high horsepower build can go down very different paths. While racecars can have high horsepower, it's about balance, making torque steer a very significant concern.

      There are a few 400+ HP P1s in the world, great for drag racing (with plenty of safety room on the right hand side) and blowing minds, but not exactly the optimal choice for a track weapon.
      Even with an LSD, if the car is FWD, you really don't want more than 320whp. It becomes unruly to drive beyond that. Not saying it won't be fun, but also not what I would classify as a "racecar."

      Technical circuits and mountain roads, my K04 is always in boost and has no disadvantage when stacked against FF and FAWD cars of similar or greater horsepower. One of the many reasons why I have no intention of putting a bigger turbo in the car.

      I would really encourage you find some locals with fully built K04 and K16s to actually experience what these cars are capable of at 250+whp.
      Don't forget about the torque of these 5 cylinders either. A K04 can have 350ftlbs at the wheels, which is what makes them a handful to drive.
      But if you're just going straight for the RWD build, then it's a whole different story.

      I seem to live in part of the world where absolutely no one but me mods Volvos at all, lol. I've been looking, but it seems like I'm on the edge of the map.

      If I kept it FWD I wouldn't want to go for crazy high horsepower, I would want to try to tackle a street-legal hill climb car. If I change it to RWD I want to go for the crazy high horsepower numbers because I would be making it a drift car.

      I'll have to look into that Mustang transmission a bit more. I'm sure it would be a Ford part that would bolt up to it.

    16. #14
      You can definitely go the Garrett route, just remember you are going to start to get laggy. You'll most certainly get the "numbers" you're looking for but there will be noticeable turbo lag. If you go bigger than the K16 and really want to push it, you'll also want to go the recirculating fuel system route to keep fueling demands in check. I've also looked into this option as well. They make "log" manifolds with variable flanges for whatever set-up you're looking to run and even they are more or less bolt on with some minor fab work. Most of it will be in the fueling. Upper fours is easily doable without recirculating system. I know of a great shop that put in my Darton MID Sleeves. Top notch. They also put in the forged pistons and rods. The builder handles short block big power motors, above the 2000whp range so they can definitely get you sorted. Mine was the first Volvo they did so they had to invest in the proper tooling for some of the build but have since done several Volvo's. The torque steer is ehhhh anyway in my opinion. Poly bushes, proper tires/suspension and motor mounts eliminate most of it.

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