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Driveshaft Removal and Balancing

2K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  LittleRedRidingHood 
#1 ·
Hi Everyone,

I'm in the process of removing my driveshaft / propshaft (connecting angle gear to Haldex). VIDA, and other online sources mention marking the shaft's position in relation to the flanges on the angle gear and Haldex as they are balanced as an assembly.

My question is - if I am planning on replacing the driveshaft, how can I ensure it is balanced when it goes in? Do I need to remove the flanges from the car, attach them to the new driveshaft, then have them balanced as an assembly?

I feel as though a shop had previously removed the driveshaft and not reinstalled it in the correct orientation, so might have to do this even if I don't need a new driveshaft.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
What I would do is nick the paint at two different points on either side of the flange using a dremel or something, just enough to remove paint and show metal. So on one side I'd have two points super close together and another they'd be like 60 degrees apart, so it is easy to tell. Line those up on either side and you are good to go for reinstall, and not enough material was removed to mess with balance.

But if I were being honest, I understand volvo maybe trying to balance everything from the factory, but to me it makes zero sense when you can just balance the shift and save the money vs. balancing the haldex-propshaft-anglegear assembly on a line somewhere.
 
#4 ·
Well, I would get it out and balanced anyways - that will tell you if it is bent in the first place or just needs a balance and some new bearings.

I would consider a propshaft from an AWD wrecker - however IIRC they are somewhat pricey at 200 or 300$ per...that is a lot of $$$ for no guarantee of straightness/balance unless you can get a low mileage guy where you can return it from a place like LKQ or somewhere.
 
#6 ·
I wouldn't if the shop will take it as is to balance. If they ask for it then sure I guess. I mean you can remove a lugnut and not sense much wheel imbalance when driving down the roadway, to me anything less than that on an assembly with a smaller radius means it won't cause much of an issue, if any at all. Of course balancing EVERYTHING contributes to general lack of vibration - however at what point are you reducing 1%, 0.1% or 0.01% of the vibration on the road....
 
#8 ·
Any tips on separating the driveshaft from the flange on the haldex side? I don't seem to have anything that fits into the holes on the backside that I can hammer on, and hammering on the bearing part (driveshaft side of the flange) isn't getting me anywhere.
 
#9 ·
If you don't have a flange splitter, I'd suggest having a helper hold a large sledge hammer head against the flange on one side, while you drive a thin chisel between the halves on the other side. Rotate and repeat if necessary.
 
#11 ·
Oh, your car has the vibration damper. Lucky you.

I thought the shaft just pulled out from it after removing the six bolts. What do you think is holding it in?
 
#12 ·
What do you think is holding it in?
Rust...
I have tried soaking with penetrant to no avail.

My car doesn't have the vibration damper - the lip of the vibration damper actually extends beyond the CV as per VIDA's illustration. That would be a nightmare. This is just a small lip, but still prevents me from wedging anything between the CV and flange.
 
#19 ·
Thanks - I had read your thread. What did you put through the holes from behind the flange? Sounds like you used a bolt? Even if I could fit something in there, there is no space to swing a hammer at it! If you don't mind helping me visualize it a bit better I'd really appreciate it.
 
#17 ·
Did someone look this up on VIDA? I can later if need be. It'll call for "special tools" but it will help with concepts.
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Additionally, it is only 4 bolts to drop the front subframe and 1 to disconnect the steering column - entirely doable. with a jack to put it hold/put back in place of course since it weighs a friggin ton.
 
#20 ·
I finally managed to get that bugger off!

A lot of hammering of the CV joint loosened things up. Then, I found a small bolt that fit into the hole in the back side of the flange, and used a 1/4" extension with a very oversized socket on it as a wobble extension of sorts and hit the extension to push the bolt through the hole.

The CV got mangled in the process, but that's OK because I don't think the shaft is usable anyways.

There is a u-joint in addition to 3 CV's - the u-joint moved freely in one direction but was absolutely frozen in the other. Not sure how that only caused vibrations at certain speeds!

I think the vibration killed the haldex pump (or it was a coincidence), so I'll need to replace that before a new shaft goes in.

Eventually I will buy a replacement from Colorado Driveshaft, or find a salvage unit.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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